654-660: Porto to Nice, via Shangrila

654 – Saturday 11th March 2016:  Lost a Day in Porto

Afurdada is a sort of suburb of Gaia – but only a few kilometres from Porto and the Louis 1 bridge – and very near our parking. A leisurely stroll for us – public communal laundry building and very public washing lines!  Coffee – of course… and sunshine.

England won – the same thrashing we reported on the wrong day – it doesn’t mean they won twice!  Ireland awaits next week…..


655-656 – Sunday 12th & Monday13th March: Vila do Conde

Adieu to Porto, for now…we will be back. Our favourite city in Portugal.  On to Villa do Conde – 50+ motorhomes on a very windy free seaside parking – rocking and rolling.  Windy walk – any of our cobwebs blown to America, probably.  We moved Jez to a much more sheltered car park just away from the sea – but no rocking now.  The Portuguese motorhomes largely emptied out … a weekend only excursion for them!  

Town perambulation – huge monastery – supposed to be a future conversion to a Pousada – no sign of this happening…  Lunch – with(?)  no vino – two meals with drinks, soup – for £7.50!  Lidl shopping – we like VilldoCondeburgh for relaxing, but very little happening or to see on a Monday.

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Our sheltered car parking for two nights.

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View along the river up to the once Monastery.  Used for some years as a reformatory for unruly boys … a bit smart for them surely!

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Lots of life sized statues, quite recent.

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Vila do Conde is also well known for its bobbin lace making.  We visited the museum in Peniche to see samples of work.  Lace making earned monty whilst men out fishing.

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999 arches on the viaduct to the Monastery … we did not verify the number … we had better things to do ….

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… such as non alcoholic lunch! 

657 – Tuesday 14th March

Pont de Lima – turned out to be a stunning little town – we could buy a very decent house here for <£250k….. thinking about it.  Definitely requires further investigation.

A lovely free parking beside the river and brand new services – just one other van for company – plenty of Oscar walking space.  We met a young Dutch back packer cyclist with a young German girl for company – they just met – later we saw him with a different girl… a lady in every Ponte?  Beautiful Botanic Garden – a future Shangri-La for family Jez?  

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Adjacent to our parking … sleeping to the sound of the water.

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The long lane of Plane trees.

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More large statues.

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Ajuelos on one of the old tower walls.  The first King, Alfonso Henrique was about to engage Moors in battle, one when of his Knights said “They’re goats m’lud!”

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Rude not to!

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Two codgers leaning against the even more ancient olive tree … we like the laid back vibe here.

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The oldest bridge in Portugal.  The far end is Roman.

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… Crossing the River Lima.

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Odd statue, amazed it’s not been dragged away in floods.

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The Botanic Gardens.

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Even had a relica Roman garden.

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No dogs allowed, so we took turns.  I used my waiting time wisely!

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658 – Wednesday 15th March

K ran – both showered – courtesy of free site water.  Slight (?) change of future route (you know us) – from Ponte de Lima to – Nice, France!!!  A mere bagatelle of 1500 km…… To see daughter Sarah and granddaughter Jade…  275 miles today (Km 400) – motorway travel – very busy aire. But fabulous mountain scenery on the first non-motorway stretch, Braga to Chaves.  Another come back too.

SatNavColin took us to a free overnight parking – quiet spot expected. On arrival – medium sized car park – 7:00 pm – packed to the gunnels with more than 50 motorhomes – obviously a super-busy transit stop – we squeezed in barely – a French van had no choice but to park parallel to ours…

659 – Thursday 16th March

K and O running (am I slowing up?) along the canal – stunning parkside with swans.  Off again – for 600+ km – 9 hours…  Jez is performing magnificently. Campsite stop – in La Belle France for Euro 8.50!  At Bessnes Roquefort.  Guardien came to lift the height barrier – and food from the freezer, followed by zzzzzs.  

660 – Friday 17th March

Yeaahh!  St Patricks Day – an omen for tomorrow – Ireland v England in Dublin?  Another 600 km – and arrival near Nice – our favourite place in France – Promenade des Anglais, Baie d’Anges…

Campsite at Villeneuve Loubet – nice site – good manoeuvring onto pitch no need for electric hook up as – sunshine all around!  K Haute Cuisine from the freezer and rest – the 3 day trip was absolutely splendid and without any problems…






















650-654: Rugby but not on the Beach

650 – Tuesday 7th March 2017: Costa Nova Beach

Young Robyn (and Kensey) had left for seaside parking – and gave us the ‘cooperativenates’ so we could coordinate our ‘operativemates’!  In other words, James – so we could get there!  Why use 1 word – when 3 will suffice?  Fantastic seaside, wide white sand dunes, boardwalks, Oscarkenseywalks – and peace…  What else could any motorhomer ask for?  En route, we used the Intermarche laundry – for Euro 18 – 2 full loads of washing (2 sets of bedding towels and clothes for nigh on 2 weeks) … several hours later – neither of us dares to put a single pair of knickers in the now empty laundry bag! 

Beach perambulating – and sunset – what comes with setsun? Sundowners, of course…in our Cosy Nostril beach setting…


Wide white sandy beaches 🙂



Sorry Robyn, not the most flattering of you (or me!) but comic as this is James’ best effort at pulling a ‘silly’ face!



651 – Wednesday 8th March:  A Beach Day 

An am run – too nice to waste the sea and landscape – easy running… R and K walked to have coffee nearby, taking vannydogs with. Beach sitting, K piknitting (not the other similar word). Later, feeling mellow, we retired all of 200 metres to a bar – for dunsowners – a cheeky white wine. Robyn kindly cooked for us – and a lovely chatty evening… in a very lovely chilled place.  


The houses in the main street are mostly striped – either painted or tiles.  We did spot a candy pink one, which must have been a bit of a drug induced colour pick.




My boys.

652 – Thursday 9th March:  Aveiro and back to Porto

Excitement all round – all of us onto Porto – our third visit?  We stopped off at Alveiro – mini Venice – lovely and sunny – coffee, of course. Services at Esmoriz Intermarche: free, clean and welcoming – UK Asda and Tesco please take note!  Porto lovely free parking on the Duoro, again.  Off to see a performance of Fado (Portuguese folk music) in town – and some port tasting… Fado is melancholic and sad – maybe a tad too sad for us?  But, I wish I could play guitar like that – maybe the 10,000 hours practice rule? 


Aveiro… lots of canals and really laid back.  Could happily have had a lingering lunch here.  Another trip.


Sun hat for J and sun lotion for O on his bald bit of snout.

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The Fado guitar is on the left.  Not as melancholic as we’d expected, but we were served a glass of port in the interval.

653 – Friday 10th March:  Rugby

To opticians to collect D4 eye test form – up steep hill – narrow street and mega clutch usage … black smoke billowing – we could taste and smell the outcome.  Appointment later at hospital near parking for JamesMedTest to complete the D4 form for the 70 year old 3.5 tons plus driving license.  More later on my unfamous perambunavating!  K Haute Cuisine for all – and vinoque too…  K here ...As Robyn and I ate, we received a phone call from J as he left the hospital … how do I get back to you?  The phone navigation had been set for the way to the hospital, so J had technical assistance on the outward route!  We worried about him.  Had a glass of wine.  Concerned he’s lost alone on the south bank.  Another glass of wine.  We tried ‘Find Friends’ on the phone to pin point his position … no good, so we just had another glass of wine!  He eventually turned up in time for the walk to the pub showing the rugby.

Irish bars get everywhere and have their uses.  Post early supper off we trotted.  “Fawlty Towers” – “don’t mention the war” quote. Well – “don’t mention the weekend rugby” is apt. OK, Ireland lost and England won by a record 40 points – is that enough said, my darling Katherine? No?  Bugger.  Pride swallowed with bromide – Ireland played as well as Wales allowed them and England played as World Champions could – there’s something stuck in my craw – a goalpost?  

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We don’t often get out at night (sigh), so a treat to see Porto all lit up.  Shaky camera shot and on the way to the pub!  Glasses of wine?

654 – Saturday 11th March:  Afurada and Rugby

In the cold light of day, I (somewhat shamefacedly) admitted to getting a taxi for the last part of my gravigation back from the hospital. Nuff said. K here again:  Quite!  No Comment!!!  New nick name – Henry JAMES the Navigator!  We will do the D4 form at home in April – but lovely people at the hospital – refunded my money when they realised it was not possible to process my examination – even though I took up 45 minutes of their time!  How lovely are the Portuegese people?   

A sad adieu to Robyn and Kensey – they will travel along the Duoro east – we will certainly meet again….

A walk to Alfurada fishing village west of our parking – buzzing, public laundry, marina, market.  The local menfolk all dressed in their Saturday finery, in and out of the bars.  Women scrubbing in the public hand laundry.  Men mending nets.  Restaurants had large BBQ’s going outside on the street to grill the freshly caught fish.  A pukka fishing village with local traditions still in force, despite the close proximity to the second largest Portuguese city. Our coffee and cakes came with – cheese pieces – luncheon.

Another foray into Porto and the Irish pub.  Funny – the barmaid seems to consider us locals on a second visit!  K:  Did J mention the England Scotland score???  I made it till 8.30 and then collapsed into bed.  All this excitement!

Tomorrow – north – to the seaside – for chill down time – and sun? Maybe… 


Washing drying outside the public laundry … blankets, towels and rugs (as well as bigus knickers) all hand washed.

Oscar’s Diary

Oscar’ere again….Flushed with my recent success (but not with the ladies – more later), I have put paw to keyboard once more. Life is good and sunny – the billet is fine, food arrives pretty much when it should – and the owners are behaving – like good ‘uns.  Now then, we have hooked up with Robyn and her K9 Kensey. Kensey is a looker – and Robyn is also very good in the glampartment…   I haven’t had stirrings in the – ahem – manly department for a long time (of course I’ve some flings in my time) and Kensey is – how shall I say – a strickpease (or something like that) – I hope this is being read after the naughtyshed at 9:00 pm…  She puts her paw out to inveigle me in closer – and I respond by nosing the old whotsits – and knock me down with a feather boa – she barks at me and runs off!!!  Now, what’s a fellow to do?  I play the old aloof game and hard to get – but not a whisker from young K (Kensey that is).  I’m going to go on t’internet and look up those cycleogical wallahs for advice – it’s called ‘doggyline’, I think…   She did it a few times – I’m resorting to cold showers (or is it cold turkey?) – I do like being rubbed down by Katherine when I’m wet but, I’d much prefer a rubadubdub from Kensey – not to be.  

Now they’ve gone to other places – along the Duoro river – but I’m sure we’ll meet again (is that a Gracie Fields song? – showing James’ age again…) and I will have some new tictacs – go on the forward paw – the Sicilian Defence in chess – all out attack – like Ireland forgot to do at the weekend…  I’ll get her in a ruck, somehow – and make sure she won’t release the ball (oops, is that a bit rude?).  Maybe poetry?  James tries that on Katherine – and she goes all doe-eyed – then – K’noodles occur…  

There’s nowt so queer as folks – or K9s – back to the gnawingboard – head in paws…

I’ll get over it…

Ciao xxx









643-649: Along the Duoro and Into the Hills

643 – Tuesday 28th February 2017:  Airport and R’n’R

Sadly, we drove Robert to the airport at the end of his weeks holiday – we think he enjoyed it and was not being polite!

Off to ‘Jumbo’ supermercado – for a big shop…  K took off with our ‘granny’ trolley. One and a half hours later – she appeared at a far corner of the car park – looking fraught!  I sprinted (?) to her aid on my white charger (well, my old running shoes, actually) – and took the heavily laden trolley – weighing 4 tonnes – the same weight as Jez!  She had walked 3 sides of the car park to find us – with elongated arms.  Unpacked, we returned to Porto parking by the Douro, again.  Walking into town aborted, some blogging, supper and early to beddy byes, zzzzzz

644 – Wednesday 1st March:  Opticians and Duoro Meet Up

Excited – we were off to meet Frances and Edward – we met originally at Port D’Empocles on the sunny south coast of Sicilia – on New Years Eve 2015. Since then, we have joined up with them quite a few times – they are several-months-at-a-time  motorhomers – but this year sadly, they are only away for one month.  Peso Da Regua was the destination – an overnight parking splendidly equipped with all services including electric – for Euro3 per night! – right by the Douro with fabulous views – and bridges.   All French vans in residence – 15 pitches – with only 1 spare after we arrived – E and F had secured ours next to them – champion!  Has the reader ever heard of “Champion the Wonder Horse”?  Gene Autry – in 79 films between 1935 and 1952? Ok – so you’re too young – you probably haven’t heard of Roy Rogers and “Trigger” either, then?  “Roy of the Rovers”?  James – you’re revealing your age – best to desist, now…

K cooked her usual Haute Cuisine – and we supped – a lot…. Then, lots of zzzzzzs.

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View from a promontory on the Douro – the aire is sandwiched between two attractive bridges.  Fully serviced i.e. drain under, own water and electric – all for EUR3.

645 – Thursday 2nd March:  Peso da Regua and Port Tasting

Plan for today – train to Pinhao – hoping OK9 would be accepted as a passenger…. At the station, we were informed – dogs only with a muzzle – no way, Jose – not for our Oscar!  His pervious owner muzzled him, despite the soreness it created on his nose … he now has a slight bald spot which we apply sun lotion to!  So, E and F embarked for Pinhao – and we perambulated – coffee at an adjacent cafe.  Up so many hills to view the town of Regua. 

K had identified a port tasting location – does she have a nose for port?  Not a red porty nose, though….   E and F were easily persuaded to come with us for the port tasting – free – as we made purchases!

Frances cooked supper – and a bit less poosy bort – sorry, boozy port!


You may have picked up that I’m rather fond of the Portugesue Ajuelos … a lot around the town with pics of the grapes being harvested, trampled etc.

P1130554J does not often have O on the lead when I’m around, but it was such a long steep climb up … he volunteered to have O tow him!  So noble 🙂

646 – Friday 3rd March:  Paeleolithic Plaudits

En route to our Paeleolithic rock carvings visit – z-bends – and up we go again further into the hills. The route to the destination took us through narrow and narrower cobbled streets (are we back in Sicilia?) – I had to get out and check.  An elderly lady told us in fluent French that it was ok – E and F in the vanguard – finally, safe parking and the Reception area/shop – another charming Portuegese lady – fluent French again!  Garbed up for all the elements (see photo) and our guide Louiz took us in his 4×4 6km up and down the 6km of rocky tracks.  There are 30km of these ancient carvings (15-20,000 years ago!) – he could only show a fraction in the allotted time. Without his help and diagrams, they could be lines in stone – but he brought them to life. Had the planned dam been fully built, the treasures would have been lost forever.  Another gem of Portugal. Unesco and World Heritage site. O stayed put in our charabanc. As we drove past in the jeep, he was in position on the dash, still and he completely blanked us with his fixed stare in the direction he’d seen us walk!

The Cao Museu was immense – cleverly designed partly underground – I have not seen so much in situ concrete for years. Wonderful galleries of exhibits – and – yes – more coffee (and cake)!

We had intended to go a little further for our nightly bivouac – but the Museu car park was clear and looked inviting – we asked at reception – and no problem with overnighting. One of the most peaceful places for our sleepovers….. Joined by a Portuguese van – unfortunately, they ran their engine during the late evening – beside Edward and Frances – inconsiderate….

A truly Paeleolithically plausible peripatetic pattern of purely pleasurable proportions!  Try saying that quickly – after 3 glasses of port!   Zzzz’s, again.

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Along the Douro – even pretty in the rain.  White farms with orange groves and terraced vineyards.

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You can tell how steep the slopes just by the vine layout .. less steep they run in lines down the hill, steeper they are terraced.  But then you look at how many rows of vine on each level.  And as we left the Douro and headed S into the hills, the vines were interspersed with oranges, olives and an abundance of in bloom almond trees.


Interesting parking at the reception centre for the Vale do Cao rock carving visitor centre … we were both essentially along the road, having had a few palpitations on the cobbled and narrow drive in.  Spot the almond blosoom … the pink is a better quality.  


Prepared for all weathers … well, the car dash had indicated only 4C!  I’d worried that the jeep would be open top and sided … a little relief.


Special view with an immaculate farm that would have been flooded had the dam gone ahead.


No idea until the lines explained and then the lightbulb moment … I can see it.


The natural lines of the rock were used.  This one’s a fish.


The valley was superbly tranquil with birds and the sound of the water.  The hut is for the security guard … similar lonesome job to a lighthouse keeper before they were all made automatic.


Part of the view from the coffee bar in the museum


647 – Saturday 4th March:  Foodies in Trancoso

From CoaMuseu – to Trancoso…..  On arrival at the parking – what did we see? A ‘Foodie’ Festival!  Did we go there?  Yup – and purchases included – cheese and cheese and cheese – and sausages!  we virtually lunched on the many tastings…live music with accordion player and singers.  Walkabout in town – moi as tour guide – sort of – Old Jewish Quarter – and castle with fantastic views from the top.

SatNaved to Celorico da Beira – home of ‘best’ Portuguese cheese – is there a ‘cheesey’ theme here, folks? Overnighted at Celorico.  Cheese = snoring for me! K


The sun shone and the blossom’s out at last night’s parking up at the museum.


A few views from the museum.


The terraces are protected by UNESCO.


Almond blossom.


What am I going to do with 4 sausages incl. a boudin noir (blood)?


F&E’s bread purchase.

648 – Sunday 5th March:  Sanghalos – and New Friends.

Bucacao National Forest – heavy mist – poor visibility.  But – luncheon a la Jez – and as if by magic – the mist lifted a little and rain cleared – for our walk. No rain but “raindrops kept falling on our heads” – Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid – one of the best films ever!  Almost the last scene – Butch and Sundance are holed up in a stable – injured and prepared to shoot their way out…  Local Police Commander summons a few hundred extra troops – when they arrive the Captain of the reinforcements asks what size of army they are facing – local Commander says “Dos Hombres” – look of absolute incredulity on face of new Captain as he repeats “Dos Hombres???”  

Anyway, the walk was excellent and well worth the Euro7 for parking – nice job our tour organiser – Katherine!

We aire’d’ at Sanghalos – to meet (by prior arrangement) – Robyn and Kensey (Batdog – or Yoda).  Supper by K – for all in our charabanc…and wine, did we say? 


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Portas de Coimbra … should have been an amazing view …


Fonte Fria, casade fed by one of the Forest’s 6 springs. 


But you’re the other side and I ain’t swimming!




Wild primrose, wild strawberries, camellias and magnolias.


The Monastery; we did not go in but apparently Wellington slept in one of the cork lined cells.


Palace Hotel: Completed in 1907 a Neo Manueline folly built as a hunting lodge … Manuel II only visited briefly with his dancer mistress before being exiled in 1910.  We were not allowed in as a film crew were operating.

649 – Monday 6th March:  Wine, Art and Passion

K had booked on a tour of Aliance Underground – winery and art gallery par excellence for only EUR3 each!  6 beautiful galleries – our guide was Laura – perfect English again – the art ranged from African to Fossils to precious stones…  Brandy cellars and wine – they make an average of 15 million litres on an average year, depending on the harvest. Purchases? Moscatel (E and F bought the most exquisite 40 year old brandy – we had a taste…  

PM – major Jez cleaning and us – and an ‘adieu for now’ supper with Frances and Edward – see you in Espana – in a while….

Alianca Underground – Really worth visiting their wine and art venues

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The owner used the London Underground name and topographical map for his museum housed in the underground cellars. 

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All that remains of the lost tribe of Bura-Asinda-Sika, Niger, Africa, from 1500 years ago is the Funeral site.

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Funeral masks form many areas of Africa.

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We turned the corner … speechless.  The minerals collection is just stunning.  So, sorry a few pics of them!

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This is all one original fossil piece.

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Portuguese pottery … it’s all in the detail.

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I’d like this one for the large wooden box in the lounge please! 




633-642: Porto with Roberto!

633-634 – Sunday 19th February 2017 & Monday 20th:  Chores and Catching Breath

Such a lot seems to have happened in the past week or so – these posts may be a little truncated…  In advance of our friend Robert (from Brizzle) arriving, we repaired to a campsite for 2 nights – jobs – laundry, cleaning Jez – and resting, our team..


635-636 – Tuesday 21st & Wednesday 22nd February:  Robert and Porto

Tuesday – ‘Robert’ day.  Always a bit worried about taking our van into an airport (we got really stuck in a narrow car park in Chardonnay at Bordeaux Airport) – it was a relief to find an adjacent parking with a wide access and loads of space.  Easyjet bang on time – and off we headed to Porto Centro-ish. Robert had come from cold and Drizzle Brizzle – to Porto in blazing sunshine and 19C!  Our identified free overnight parking was fairly central – just along the river Douro.  The last road down to it was narrow – and with 2-way traffic – nervy stuff – but safe. Truly excellent parking with about 10 vans. Lunch on board (KHCS) – ‘K Haute Cuisine Soup’ – and the perambulations began.  Only 3 km to the bridge.  

We passed a queue for a river cruise – instant decision to go – but dog friendly?  ‘Si’ – the owner had dogs and we assured him that the boys were placid – Robert, James and Oscar!    Stunning tour – Porto has 6 river bridges – different designs – one steel arch truss railway bridge designed by Gustav Eiffel’ colleague whilst working with Eiffel et Cie.  And the double decker iconic one, by the same architect, but by this time he had parted company from Eiffel.  We passed by all the Port establishments (didn’t sample) – wandered the streets – and took wine – Robert is a Bass beer man and sampled the local Brock Super lager.  He late developed quite a taste for white port.

Wednesday, our intrepid tour guide K had us booked on a 9:20 am (!) free walking tour – an hours walk from the van!  Brekkie was in the middle of the night, it seemed (our guest doesn’t normally rise early either).  The walk to the start included loads of steps – uphill…. We made it in time and drew breath….we were told the walk would be 3.5 hours long!  All told, this amounts to about 6 hours on foot…. we were now members of the Royal Porto Light Infantry (or RIPL – well, it scans better…).  Our guide was Eugenia and we had 2 other girls (German and French) for company.  Porto is quite something – Libraria Lello e Irmao (and worldwide famous bookshop) cathedral, buildings, squares – even the MacDonalds is a listed building with Art Deco and Art Nuveau interior.  I could see Hercule Poirot scoffing a MacPortoDeco sandwich!  

We rested for very welcome coffee and cake – which attached itself to my beard (as usual) – and visited a famous guitar maker – they explained about Porto and Coimbra Fado guitars. “Fado” is the folk music of Portugal – haunting, sad and very beautiful – Eugenia played us some of the music.  The old railways station has the most amazing tiled murals – all telling a separate story.

One of the bridges is 2 level – car traffic below – and Metro rail on top – with pedestrians wandering along the rail tracks!  Health and Safety?   

Lunch – Eugenia recommended a restaurant and the local ‘sandwich’ a “Francesina”.  It’s a cliche to call a meal ‘a heart attack waiting to happen’ – this so-called sandwich is enormous – with ham, sausage, cheese,bread and all ‘cooked’ in a homogenous cube with fried egg, sauce and chips!  Just look at Robert’s expression in the restaurant!  He ate it though – I managed half – and K sensibly had a small sausage.

On our way back to Jez, we couldn’t help but notice how stunning the river looks by night – with the reflections.  Doggydinner was late – whoops, sorry, Oscar…. we may have stopped for a small port on the way home!

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The Ponte de Dom Luis 1, completed in 1886.  A very clever design with an upper and lower deck.  The arches reach 172m hight, is 385m long and all that wrought iron weighs over 3000 tons.

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Hooray – Oscar looked calm and was allowed on board.

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The old Eiffel Maria Pia railway bridge 1876 with the new one behind.  Only closed in 1991.  I would not have fancied being in a train crossing in wind … it is very narrow with open sleepers.

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Ribeira: a warren of winding lanes with bars and restaurants.

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Some of the port lodge flags in Vila Nova de Gaia …. we recognised most of them!

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Outside the cathedral – a lovely Manueline Pillory, still with its hooks.

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Aah!  No wonder Porto keeps being voted best city destination and is getting very popular.


Lello e Irmao bookshop 1906:  apparently it is so popular that there is now an EUR4 entry fee.  It is considered to be one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world.  Our guide told us that there were lots of Porto links with JK Rowling, as she had been briefly married to a local chap here, until his physical abuse drove her back to the UK.  Porto claims that many of the design features for Hogwarts came from the bookshop.  Salazar Slitherin is named after the Dictator.


Igreza dos Clerigos … we’d just climbed for an hour to get up here, no need to climb the tower too!


To complete with Lisbon, Porto built the Avenida dos Aliados in early 1900’s.  It has a French Boulevard feeling with some super art deco and art nouveau buildings.


The McDonalds complete with its art deco features … Robert really did not want to be photo’d in front of a McDs!  But he did not purchase, honest!


Sao Bento railway station 1916 and a feast of tiles telling the story of transport and historic scenes.


Transport above, history in blue.


Fado guitars with 10-12 strings.  The Lisbon and Coimbra versions.


Our walking tour took us onto the upper deck of the Ponte Dom Luis – we shared the space with the Metro!  Apparently if gets so crowded in summer that Porto is thinking they will have to encase the pedestrians for their own safety.


View off the bridge looking down onto Vila Nova de Gaia, where all the port lodges are.


Ribeira … looks like unsteady cardboard structures.


Inside the old town wall.  Isn’t it lunchtime yet?


The Francesina – wood oven baked.


637 -Thursday 23rd:  Barcelos Market

We went to Barcelos – for the market – well it’s the biggest in Portugal – everything – except meat and fish – which we wanted…  Lots of ‘headed’ chickens (as opposed to headless ones) – Oscar didn’t much fancy the crowds.  Directional signs – to everywhere – except the meat and fish – well, we could probably get meat and fish in London, Paris and Las Vegas – but it wasn’t really convenient, just then…

We has a nice run before market time along the riverside…..

Now, to Braga…and a nice secluded campsite for 2 nights.

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I’ll take two!  Could have picked up some pretty song birds too.

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Where next then?  Check out those matching stripes!


Braga municipal campsite … EUR15 per night with 16 amp.  BBQ night.


638-639 – Friday 24th and Saturday 25th:  Braga & Bom Jesus

It’s Carnival time in Portugal these days – lots of children in lovely outfits on the streets. She wouldn’t sit still, but we spotted a toddler as a little chick, thankfully Not on the way to market.

Sharp-eyed Robert noticed a sign – for a – walking tour (after Porto, he might have learned better) – and we ‘coffee’d’ whilst awaiting the guide. But, the start was actually about 1km away, we observed late….  Olympic-style walk racing was now a priority – with K and O in the vanguard.  Just in time, we greeted Paolo -a young Masters graduate from the city.  A 2 hour tour was promised – and he introduced the history of Braga first – the mixture of Moors, Spanish, Gothic and Manuelian influences…

Saturday – Bom Jesus (“Good Jesus”) – the star attraction of the Braga area. The Stations of the Cross paved the way to a Cathedral on the top of – the most gigantic set of steps. – everything in reflective white.  Visually a huge impact with views of Braga and the surrounding countryside on all sides… 

Coffee and ice-cream before descending – to Jez again.


We’d seen aisles of costumes in supermarkets … seriously ALL the children join in.


The new gate with the coat of arms of the very powerful bishop … Braga is the Canterbury of Portugal …


… with the oldest cathedral – design styles are Romanesque and Manueline, with a Gothic porch.


You little devil!


The grooves show where a revolving door used to be – for unwanted babies to be placed in the Monastery.


Braga has lots of squares with fountains … can’t remember all the symbolism on this one….


This one has a phoenix who has stabbed her heart with her beak to feed her children.


A marmite building.  I loved the blue tiles and balconies … someone else who shall remain nameless … Robert, thought it was OTT.  The Palacia do Raio now houses the museum.



At the bottom of the steps up to Bom Jesus – conceived in 1722 by the very small Bishop … we saw his minuscule shoes – 4’1” tall.



About a third of the way up … there are three sections built at different times.  The lower has 14 chapels with the stations of the cross.  The middle the Five Senses and finally the Three Virtues.  And yes we did feel virtuous!  Especially me as this is my third visit … as a grumbling teen when I could not understand why my parents had not forked out for the funiculare.  And then, it slowly dawned on me that we all came again abut 5 years ago when we were in Portugal to celebrate the Aged P’s 50th wedding anniversary!



That orange bowl goes everywhere … O needed a drink …


… and so did we.


Grotty!  Sorry, grotto!


Saturday 25th cont…  Guimeraes

An initial free parking (possibly overnight – with a faint possibility of seeing 6-Nations rugby? The self-appointed parking attendant (Portuguese) greeted us in fluent Yorkshire dialect! He had lived in UK for some years in Yorkshire/Lincolnshire and talked about returning as an ‘illegal’ – what happened to ‘EU free movement of workers across the continent?  

The town search for a rugby bar was fruitless – but the wine was good in the square with lots of bars…..  Eventually, K took O back to the van and young Robert and I supped a bit more…

Our ‘Yorkshire’ friend had advised K to move car parks for the overnight – party night and ‘Carnaval’ – wisely, she piloted the van to higher ground and more space – just as R and I arrived back from non-rugby bar – I then followed the game (Ireland v France) by Internet text – a victory for the Irish keeps their Championship hopes alive. To keep the balance, England overcame a spirited Italian side on Sunday – it’s all boiling up nicely indeed…


Guimaraes was the first Portuguese capital, when Alfonso Henrique proclaimed himself king in 1139.  It is beautifuly medieval with lots of overhanging buildings and squares.



The cap in the doorway was singing along LOUDLY to his music.  A rather nice red … I managed two before ….


… Oscar and I both felt cold so had to have a cuddle!

641-642 – Sunday 26th & Monday 27th:  Along the Duoro before it floods to the Atlantic

On being asked what he fancied seeing next, Robert responded with the Atlantic.  We plotted a route along the Duro to just S of Porto.  We’d planned to stop at a town for late morning coffee but ‘P’ Poor Planning and lack of obvious parking for our big beastie meant we just kept going to Campsite at Parque Seguiresos – plain site – price Eur 16 for 2 nights – 3 peeps and 1 doggo!!!  Plus 10 amp electric, which we managed to blow a couple of times!  OK – plain adequate facilities…. close to the beach for a couple of wet dog walks … K and R!  James, where were you?

Pouring rain, and more teeming rain, and more stair rods of rain for Monday.  Just as it started to abate, we headed off for a farewell good lunch.  Doggy bags of both some starters and mains and no room for pud!

The week with Robert has flown by – nights of Crib with K, all sorts of medium loud rock music from 60s to 80s – especially the Eagles – the last night doing Crosswords – R – you are so sharp especially at anagrams – what’s an anagram of anagram?  Grannymarg?  Mannymarg? Grabagranny?  Over to you, Robert.  And i know he’ll proof read this and find numerous spelling errors and unnecessary explanation marks!



630-632: Coimbra in 3 days!

 630 – Thursday 16th – Coimbra 1 – Orientation

Coimbra (pronounced Koyimbra) is very special. One of the best places we have seen in Portugal, definitely – well worth a 3 night stay.  2 days of hot sunshine and 1 day of showers and colder – woolly hat weather for that day.  Free parking by the Rio Mondego – lots of vans unsurprisingly – and a short walk to the city centre along the river – free rein for OscarK9…  

Easy orientation walking for day 1 – the Botanical Gardens are a haven of tranquility – and the fountain flowed in the river…a very peaceful evening.  

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The very convenient pedestrian walkway from our parking … a couple of lads were throwing themselves off – they confirmed the water is very cold!  It’s the Pedro and Ines bridge … but I don’t think chilly waters and a very sad love story are connected.

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The Botanical Gardens with the aquaduct. 

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631 – Friday 17th – Coimbra 2 – Town walk

We saw tears and love at the fountains – poor Ines – how can you murder someone twice in the same city?  Monastery Santa Clara, a Lilliputian Garden and an Igreja before the Santa Cruz cafe for wine – and the most beautiful impromptu open air music performance in the square below… 

The old Cathedral and the new – mixtures of Manuellian and Baroque – lots of steep hills and steps – good training for all 3 of us…

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Quinta da Lagrimas Gardens – The Fountain of Tears.  The guide said this is THE spot where Ines was murdered at the behest of her father in law, the King.  The red lichen only turned red after her blood flowed!  I just have to wonder if the mad passion Pedro felt (such as exhumation and making subjects kiss her decaying hand) would have survived a longer and more normal course… I just feel that real love deepens despite learning each other’s flaws and foibles, but is not all consuming.

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But what!?  The Santa Clara-a-Velha Monastery claims that THIS was where poor Ines lost her life.  She was buried here until exhumed.  The Monastery had to evacuated as it kept flooding and was only fully excavated and made watertight in the late 1990’s.

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We decided not to pay the high fee to go into the Portugal dos Pequentos (Portugal for the Little Ones), even though the child sized Portuguese monuments sounded interesting.    It was built only in 1940 under the Estado Novo (Salazar regime).  

If we ever end up towing behind Jez – we want a Booze Wagon!

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Igreja Sao Bartolomeu – the site has been used for liturgical use for over 1000 years.

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Originally part of the Santa Cruz Monastery, it became a famous cafe in the 1920’s … we just had to sample a little white wine … 

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The Interior of the Cafe Santa Cruz … the roof was impressive and the stained glass came later.

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Igreja de Santa Cruz:  Interior of the former Santa Cruz Monastery church … handed to the locals as a church after the Portuguese Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1834 … as they’d all got too powerful!  Either side of the alter are the ornate tombs of the first two Kings – Alfonso Henriques and his son, Sancho I.  Another case of a subsequent heir, feeling the existing tombs did not fully dignify their importance and had them exhumed and interred here.  Apparently the bodies had hardly decomposed … not sure how long after death … but no one had to kiss their hands!!!

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The main reason we chose the Cafe Santa Cruz for a wee glass (or two) … some of the students wearing their traditional year 2 & 3 uniform performing beautiful ballads.  Check out the chap doing map leaps.

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Would that be glass number 2, Mr C? ….

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… While O waits patiently.  A pose he seems to have perfected!

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Is it a castle?  No, the Old cathedral – Se Velha.  We did not go fully in due to the costly EUR2.50 each … built under Alfonso Henriques, the first King.  Too small, so a larger church was used …

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… Interior of the Se Nova C16, but owned by the Jesuits, until they were expelled in C18.  Unattractive exterior, but Baroque madness inside … so many cherubs.


632 – Saturday 18th – Coimbra 3 – The University & Museum

Up and at ‘em at dawn – for us, anyway 0730 hours – dog walk and minibrekkie – Oscarusualbrekkie.  Then, we left him in the van alone at 0900 – sorry Oscar.  We know he has left the WSSU Union and transferred to Younight – not Unysign Union – he was unhappy with his subscription level – 5% of his dogfood – per month!  His secretary is no longer Dai – it’s now Hai (you know what’s coming next, folks) Yundai!  Sorry – it just had to be.  It could have been – Toy Yota – or Ma Asda, even.  But not ‘Hill ManImp’. Enough – back to topic, please.

After the sun – came the rain and colder weather.  0930 hours at the University – timed ticket for the Library – anyone could study in this atmosphere – amazing, again.  The whole area of the Library, Chapel and Palace is unlike anything we’ve seen – the top University in Portugal, it is said.  Some of the structures (replaced under Salazar) are very Mussolini-ish but good lines.

The National Museum is on many floors – starting with the Roman Cryptoporticus – underground – at a junction joining 2 main roads – 2 thousand years ago.  Art, paintings, sculptures… maybe a bit much of the dark religious depictions – a la the Ufizzi Gallery in Florence – but of it’s time.  Small discovery – 15th Century alabaster – much favoured for sculpture – best supply in Europe – England – and specifically – Nottingham! 

3 course lunch across the river – under outdoor cover – heavy rain at times – we were dry, luckily.  We did the menu proud – eh, Katherine? (Yes, I over ate – mine and J’s leftovers!)

Now there’s this bar on the north side of the river – we have some minor difficulty passing it without stopping (our third visit in 3 days!) – no such problem this time!  We met a birthday girl – Hannah and her family – all much taken with our boy, Oscar – who isn’t?

Back to Jez for R&R – a fabulous time in Coimbra.



Porta Ferrea (Iron Gate) – the entrance to the old part of the University.  C17, topped with the female figure of wisdom two kings either side – Dinis and Joao III; the founder and a major investor / developer.


Entrances off the Paco das Escolas to the Library, Chapel and Palace.  Originally the Royal Palace of the first King Alfonso Henriques.  

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No pix allowed in the library, so an internet image.  Joao III was asked for a new room for the expanding library … he liked to large things up (he had Mafra built with its amazing library) so he gave them a whole new building on several floors.  The upper is the show case with every artistic feature from coats of arms to chinoiserie paintings, the middle is plain for more serious study and the basement is the academic prison.  Yep,  Universities administered their own law, but students could only be interred for a week.  I wonder what penalty non submission of homework would warrant?


St Michael’s Chapel C15- the organ (2000 sounds) and the beautiful tiles stand out.  Nice that the chapel is still in use – there’s a service every day at midday.  


Inside what was the Royal Palace – the Sala dos Capelos or Ceremonial Hall.  Originally the Throne Hall, this is where the University holds its official ceremonies, such as awarding Doctorates and opening the academic year.  A bit intimidating for the candidates, but this is where PhD oral examinations (viva voce) are held.


The Private Examination Room with 38 past Chancellors images.


 The Bell Tower 1753 is the highest point in the city.  It is 15 minutes slow and of its three bells one is called the cabra – the goat.  So named as first year students had to prance like goats at the end of the day or have older students pounce on them.  Students have removed it’s clanger to prevent it reminding them to go to bed and arise in time for studies!  This courtyard originally had all the classrooms off, but under the Marquis of Pombal, the number of faculties was increased from Cannons, Law, Letters (grammar and philosophy) and Medicine. 


Salazar had many of the old buildings replaced with these square edifices in the 1940s.


The Museu Nacional de Machado de Castro is housed in what was the Bishop’s Palace.  It sits on top of a Roman cryptoporti – being atop a hill, the Romans needed more level land for a Forum, so they built a two tier archway support, which has been excavated.  The rest of the museum included some of the best stone and wooden sculptures … really well laid out.


Inside the cryptoporti.



Some of the finest Alabaster – all the way from … Nottingham.


Life size terracotta 12 apostles that had been made for the Santa Clara convent.  


View down to the old Cathedral.


Lunch and the grey skies and rain have returned.