Category Archives: Tour 2016-17

524 – 526: French Partings and Reunions

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524 – Wednesday 2nd November 2016:  Temporary Partings

J ici – 6:30 am start from Pereihat to get me to Bordeaux airport for flight to Gatwick – minor medical appointment in Guildford on Thursday morning. Ring motorway was well behaved – no serious bouchons… Some flights delayed due to heavy fog – but my Niceyjet plane left only 5 minutes late – and arrived in Blighty 15 minutes early? How does that work? I suppose its like construction programmes – we always allowed ‘float’ time in establishing targets.  Huge thanks again to Diane and Grahame (still in France!) for allowing me to bivouac at Royal Rothbury Dock… 

K here … I drove onto Le Teich, along the Arcachon Baisin.  The motorhome aire was out of order, next to a station and with no other motorhomes.  I reckoned it would not be my resting place for the night, but Oscar needed a walk so I followed the sign for the port … and found a nest of motorhomers, just outside the Ornithological Park.  I moved Jez here …. 14 vans by night time and a further 5 up the road.  I did feel safe.

Being Oscar’s birthday, he got several walks and playtimes with his balls (the throwing sort!).  He is now a mature (!!!) 3 years old.

I cleaned the inside of the van, which we had not had time to do on the jobs day yesterday and caught up with some blogging.  I don’t know if it was NOT overeating or having the bed to myself, but I slept really well!

J here – ok so you sleep better when I am away…???

 

525 – Thursday 3rd November 2016:  Reunited

James … Thursday at 7:30 am, I joined the jolly commuters (just like old times again…) en route to business – our business is travelling and being retired – but not exactly being put out to grass!  Guildford, successful appointment – minor window shopping – and back to Gatrow/Heathwick…Gatwick – for BA this time. K managed to recognise me on the kerb at Bordeaux Airport next to a giant wine bottle – and off back to the Aire.  There is a story here, folks. Some years ago (about 100 or so), when I was an ‘important’ CEO of a medium-sized PFI company, I stayed with K (before we lived together) at her house in Fleet and took the train to a Board Meeting in Londinium.  Kindly, after her usual frenetic but superbly managed schooldays, she offered to collect me from Fleet station. I alighted from the carriage (isn’t that a lovely word? “alighted” – if you alight from a train – do you belight on to it?) and rushed to be greeted by my darling! As I approached, she stared fixedly past me – and I was completely ignored!!!  I wasn’t too ‘belighted’ at this! She claimed it was my suit – I suppose I was disguised to look like every other ‘very important’ business bloke at the station…  Now that we are full time motorhome travellers, we know we are really ‘important’ indeed…  We don’t really miss the ‘suited and booted’ days, but they were fun, sometimes…   

K back again … I took Oscar for a longer walk than usual around the Basin de Archachon, hoping to  find a bistrot for a bowl of soup in the next town … No, full of burgers and pizza, all offering student rates … YUK!  I had a white coffee at a bar and then wondered how to go for a pee with Oscar and a largish rucksack.  If I had left him outside he would have created mayhem with pulling and barking …. in the end I just took him and bag with me.  Anything seems to go in France with dogs.  I munched on my reserve breakfast biscuits on the way back and then fell on some soup.  

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The Basin de Arcachon really reminded me of the Norfolk Broads, near where I used to have a holiday home.  Dead flat, reclaimed land and sedge and reeds feeding an abundant birdlife.

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I was lucky enough to catch this fellow eating a fish … he allowed me time to change my camera to 400x zoom and only paused for a second when Oscar made a noise.  Think he may be a stork.

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I collected James via the large Carrefour, so large the staff are on roller skates.  We I’d been there after dropping Kerstin at the airport, it been heaving with families and children … today was much quieter and altogether more pleasant.  We are intending to de-tox a bit (only a bit), so it was strange coming out of a supermarket with no booze!

We overnighted back at the same spot in Le Teich as it was under an hour away.

 

526 – Friday 4th November 2016:

Running had taken a back seat in recent times – due to Chardonnay issues and K9 capers – the former a bit of a chore and the other a huge joy – Amelia and the other Irish siblings will know the meaning of “an madra deas alainn air fad!”.  OK, ok – the Dublin Olympics may be light years away so we have ample time to prepare for the Decathlon – we’ve started by spending lots of Euros at  Decathlon stores in Euroland!  K9Oscar will of course enter separately for the Welsh Winter Olympics – he already has a medal in Olympic ‘lock picking’ – specialising in opening/tearing soft doggy crates and doggy treat bags!!!  He will fail a ‘drogs’ test every time… we have years to get the red vino out of our system – trouble is – we keep topping it up again…    

Following our soft training and Oscar’s poo-training, we visited the town of St Jean de Luz – a seaside resort where Louis XIV married Maria Therese of Spain to cement a political alliance that didn’t prevent the 2 countries going to war subsequently. He was a randy old git, sorry – goat who rushed to privately consummate the union before the “public” consummation!!!  Can you imagine it – the young couple at Westminster Registry Office – the Registrar says – “now you’re officially married – get out on the street and get your kit off and have your consome soup – with afters!”.  Pleasant seaside resort with nice sqares, we retired to our nightly bivuac – a small Aire with tightly packed vans on the edge of the town railway station main platform!  The trains didn’t stop all night and the really loud ones were the freight trains – the station announcements went on also every half hour – “don’t leave any unattended bags on the station, etc etc”.  Therefore readers will understand that when K’s daughter phoned at 3:30 am from UK to complain of a headache – K patiently restrained from suggesting an enema placed up her nether regions!!!  

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St Jean de Luz … the port area is pretty, and so it the beach, but …

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… Dogs not allowed, not any time of year!  We had to walk him right along the promonade in the lead to the hill one end of town, before we could let him have a free wander!

Now we don’t like to moan – but the rain did beat incessantly all night in tune with the trains, announcements, enema-esque headaches, etc. Very little would have been connsome’d in our van last night!  Too much detail? Let’s move on then…  Spain tomorrow for some sun????

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

518-523: A Surprise for Dad’s Planned 80th

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518 – Thursday 27th October 2016:  Collecting the Surprise

Grahame and Diane had no idea that Kerstin (Kooky Kerstin) was coming to stay at chez Jez/Perechat  – so we had an extra day away from them as a pretext for collecting KK! We identified a secure parking near the Bordeaux Merignac airport – Katherine dropped me at the Arrivals Building and awaited at the parking for my call. Kerstin arrived very quickly and K/Jez appeared right on time. Kerstin had not experienced Jez and was suitably impressed – she was particularly pleased with the sleeping accommodation… having previously called Jez a folly by email!!

We drove to the coast W of Bordeaux to an aire … due to the heavy traffic, we arrived just as the sun was setting…. another of those moments in time, which you cannot plan.  As K and K walked Oscar, K tried to persuade K to let out her properties in Germany and buy a motorhome … you don’t get moment like this stuck to a desk and a computer screen.

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519 – Friday 28th October 2016:  Dune de Pilat

The largest sand dunes in Europe lived up to all our expectations – and more! Beautiful soft sand and convenient steps up to the top – stunning views for miles/Kilometres in every direction. Oscar even managed to run in the sand – we had a very sandy van later….  It grows and moves every year … so far streets and houses consumed and one guid book said a campsite was next in line.

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Kerstin determined to ‘control’ Oscar!

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All 3 sliding down the sand … K took the steps to catch the pix.

 

Arriving at Perechat, where the family were convening, we parked with Kerstin lying low – K brought Diane and Grahame from the house – and mega surprise – a loving reunion!  Much jollification – and some drinkies also…

520 – Saturday 29th October 2016:  Aubeterre and Supper

We hd been to Aubeterre before, briefly for coffee last July – this time a better tour and the 2 K’s visited the underground church – much impressed – see photos! A good wander in lovely warm sunshine.

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Oscar not allowed into the Church but having a look anyway.

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Aubeterre is a derivative of alba terra / white stone and the stone work of the old properties was indeed soft.

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Noteworthy carvings … acording to the guide book.

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The underground church was more impressive than we imagined.   Dug out during the Crudades by hand.  They think to house a relict.

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It was also the town cemetery, so locals and Pilgrims had to walk over the graves.

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The rellilquary  – carved out of one peice of stone.


The evening was the first restaurant meal for the  Grahame birthday celebration – we drove G and D and Katherine’s navigational skills were – in Kerstin’s way of speaking – “How shall I say?” – “interesting”! In other words, we got lost! But we arrived eventually to a super meal – complete with – the Birthday cake – no jokes about Grahame’s windy skills in putting out the candles…   A special treat was Danielle travelling from her University life in Birmingham to mark the occasion – one of many treats indeed!  She’d managed to have her parents book her Business, whilst they travelled with her siblings in steerage … she only managed one bottle of fizz … wasted on her!

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All in our Sunday best!

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I may need that wrapping paper!

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An expert in recycling!

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A different gift in the same paper … honest.

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Enough puff?  Oh I think so!

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Angelic or what?

 

521 – Sunday 30th October 2016: Angouleme

Day out to Angouleme provided us with a test of motorhome parking – seriously! We almost got stuck in the local Gare car park but escaped with our van intact – the first very narrow streets test… in Jez.

On street – and free – parking was found not very far away. K checked with a local who quizzed her on how the English find the French!!!!!  A good walk around the town ramparts – more spectacular views – and a coffee outside a dog friendly bar – most bars/restaurants are dog welcoming here.  The Basilica was well worth a visit – not overly adorned like some churches – a local christening was in progress. Back to Perichat for a Baker organised evening meal.

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Yes – chrysanthemums 

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Lots of official graffiti.  K sporting new ‘home knitted’ poncho.

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Angouleme is know for its annual car race around the ramparts.  Much be a bit hairy as the roads are twisty and narrow.

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It sits high over the undulating surrounding lands … nothing special, but pleasant.

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The exterior at odds with the plain interior.

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522 – Monday 31st October 2016:  The Big Day Itself

Monday was the exact day of Grahame’s birthday – starting at ‘breakfast o’clock’, Kerstin revealed her ‘piece de resistance’ with her usual understated aplomb!  A sort of “This is your life” version of Grahame’s life – with individual pages written by all the extended family members – from windy underpants – to odd sayings of his – to many holiday and camping adventures….. all bound and beautifully presented.  Amazing how once you start the memories keep on coming.

We took Kerstin to the Airport – she had work on Tuesday, after a diversion via Amsterdam (her not us!)… she needed to get to S Germany!!!   Back at Perichat, we readied ourselves for the second restaurant meal of the multiple celebrations – after all, you’re only XX years old once…  K driving to the restaurant – a short distance – with her navigational skills relegated to the sidelines – Diane guided Jez and us the short distance. A truly amazing meal again. K tried baked marrow bone!  Oscar started in his crate in the van.  when K went to check on him … he was sitting on the front seat looking right royal regal!  The little sod had burst through the front mesh.  He ended up in the restaurant again with us, but he was by no means the only 4 legged guest, but at least he did NOT sit on our laps!  J has effected a gaffer tape repair across the crate’s mesh, as we read dogs HAVE to be secured in Spain and it is safer too … we’ve been building to putting him in the crate for journeys.

Back at Clare & Chris’ pad … Did I mention “Baileys” – Katherine, Clare and Diane?  Somno vinoque prevailed later with lots of zzsssss…

 

523 – Tuesday 1st November 2016 – A Much Needed Down Day

After all the eating out etc, we all pretty much stayed around the house.  Both the Aged P’s and us were leaving the next day … the Aged P’s heading north back home and us migrating south.  I later discovered that the french is oiseaux de passages … I rather liked it.  A number of jobs were done, including trying to level out the deep ruts Jez had dug in the drive.

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Zoe pruning Oscar.

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

513-517: The French Pyrenees with the Aged P’s

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513 – Saturday 22nd October 2016:  And into France … Finally

We don’t really do early starts, but don’t seem to find it hard to get up when setting off on the next adventure.  Our train was booked for 9.50 from Folkestone and it was our first time across with Oscar… They don’t care at all what animals you take out of GB … didn’t even check he was on board.  The train was late, but the trip passed really fast, as we have a large comfy bed and make use of it on most crossings … ZZZ.

We’d decided to ignore the Peage as I’d costed it at somewhere around EUR75 and the time difference was only 1.5 hours all the way down to the Pyrenees.  Lots of pretty towns (dropping to 50kph) and rolling fields.  Good to be in France.  

 

514 – Sunday 23rd October 2016:  More Driving

It’s getting warmer, oh yes!  Fantastic roads today … the N10 seems to be mostly free dual carriageway with odd bits of free motorway.   Being ‘le weekend’, the roads are quiet with few trucks.  We covered quite some distance today.

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Blissful empty stretches of tarmac … we still remember the feeling of gloom as we hit the M25 traffic in rain on our return to England last April.

515 – Monday 24th October 2016:  Campsite at Salies de Bearn

The scenery so far has been pretty flat but as we approached our destination, we could see the great outlines of the great Pyrenees.  Our site is just in the foothills.  The campsite is quirky.  Lots of terraces, empty this time of year and we positioned ourselves with a great view over them.  Free range foul of all sorts.  The host lady spoke Fr, Eng, German and Dutch (she was).  The Aged P’s arrived just as we set off for a walk, which we then aborted in favour of … drinks and supper in the van … and every following night.  The Aged P’s decided that Jez is very roomy and cosy.  Their apartment very traditionally Fr with high ceilings, ancient furniture and functional ablution facilities, but since I had all the spices etc, it seemed to make sense for me to cook.

516 – Tuesday 25th October 2016:  Orthez Market to Buy the Picnic

Found the crysanthums market, which people were buying in huge quantities.  Don’t know if it is a SW France peculiarity, but crysanthums everywhere here.  We were slightly worried as we thought they would be a food market as we planned to buy our lunch!  We then found food market under cover.  Bought some lovely cheeses, including an amazing goat covered in ash … really delicious!  Honest!  

The picnic site, we eventually found was by the side of a leisure lake, and we weren’t the only ones doing it … but they had wine!  A walk around the lake revealed a beach, fitness equipment, fishing areas and jet ski jumps. The French and Germans seem to do this outdoor sports facility really well.

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There had recently been a Breast Cancer Run and a lot of trees were ‘dressed’ … given I am now into knitting, I appreciated the work gone into it.

517 – Wednesday 26th October 2016 – Sauveterre de Bearn and Salies de B

On arrival at Sauveterre, we happened to park next to the TIC … who gave us a plan of the town with some information.  We followed this and like what we saw … some good views, quirky architecture … all a bit out of the ordinary.

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Part of the bridge had washed away.  Nice tale of a Queen who was thrown into the river for having murdered her child.  despite having been bound up, she survived and the child was subsequently found alive.  I wonder what retribution she made?

We drove back to Salies and had a wander around here.  This is a spa town since a wounded Boar was later found with its fur encrusted with salt.  The ‘top’ part of the town has the beauty treatments and posh hotel … yet compact and nicely done.  The lower part of the town is Medaeval streets around the bend in the river.  We found a super restaurant for lunch … it was a few Euro more than another formule, but the quality of the food was excellent  … and I was allowed to bring Oscar in … such a good boy, he just lies down and sleeps.  J and I elected to walk back to the campsite to shake down our lunch.  We discovered the Aged P’s partaking of a sneaky post lunch Port … fun that!  As it happens, The Aged P’s had come back from Spain via a big booze shop much frequented by the French for its cheep prices.  Over the couple to days here, we managed to get through quite a lot of Port, both colours, gin and dry martini, wine and I think (memory affected obviously) there may have been some Pinot de Charente too!

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