Triple A Day

Posted on November 1, 2023 by Clunegapyears

31/10/2023

Appollonia ancient site, Ardenica Monastery and Ate well.

Update on sleep. We slept brilliantly. Even the neighbouring dogs didn’t bark for long as the pup wasn’t howling! It transpired, the poor pup had been tied up far the other side of the owner’s house. Oh dear … at least we slept.

We packed up as moving day. Vlore to Berat. But with stops, of course.

Appollonia Ancient site

It’s a national park, and it did feel like a nice walk with things to see. The site is quite vast, and we quickly lost other visitors when we walked to the Nypheum and main Theatre, which were out on a limb. Only 10% has been excavated and relatively recently 1920/30’s and then 1980’s. The museum had some fine pieces. Some going back to C8 BC. Despite such long occupation, the buildings are Roman, with many stones recycled from earlier construction.

*Iconostasis and some frescoes in the church*

*No site in Albania would be complete without damage by Hohxa’s communist era*

*The main Theatre away* *from the* *other visitors*

Ardenica Monastery

The only monk inhabited monastery in Albania. Not surprising really since the atheism years repressed religion and Albania is mostly Muslim – a legacy of the hundreds of years of Ottoman rule.
It was saved destruction in the atheism years, 1967-99, as the quick thinking Abbott said that the national hero, Skanderbeg, had been married here. Didn’t stop some damage as it was then used as a military barracks.
Despite this, it was a goose bump moment. Stunning frescos on nearly every wall from 1744.

No pix allowed so pinched these off the web.

*They’ve done fundraising so loaded. Restoration works, new plumbing etc*

*The frescoes were pretty much on every wall*

Ate Well

We arrived in Berat at our new home for 3 nights. Talk about chalk and cheese! The last was bijou, and this is super spacious. But not well equipped, not even a dish cloth. And bits broken, like the toilet seat, the toilet leaks, the front door doesn’t lock. The fridge was brought in whilst we were out, and it’s ancient and missing the freezer compartment door. Ho hum only £16.50 per night! Oh, and the bed is rock hard 😔.

We wandered up one side of Berat in the dark and then down. Started our meal outside. Finished it inside … it had started to rain so Corrie was left in the car. Good food and half a litre of red. Waiter happy to talk about a waterfall and canyon I’d read about and the state of the roads! Good to have a good Last Supper. We are going dry for November and healthy eating. Think we will definitely lose weight as breakfast is fruity quinoa with honey and lunch is Dahl with leftover grilled veggies! Wish us luck, fortitude and sympathy.

Sleepless in Vlore – North and South

Posted on October 30, 2023 by Clunegapyears

29-30/10/2023

We exercised with the fab view. The resident pup was a little in my face when lying on my mat. Corrie is keeping her distance from the older big dog and puppy. I wonder if she’s protesting in case we are considering another dog. But we are so NOT!

We parked up in Vlore town, roadside … I’d only been able to identify underground parking. Walked about 1.5km along a main straight boulevard to the main sites … didn’t take us long!

*Amazed this attractive mosque escaped destruction*

There was a Museum of Independence, but it looked a bit fusty so we gave it a miss. On our walk back to the car, J was desperate for a pee and I was desperate for food. We passed cafe after cafe. A pizza place. A fast food place. I can’t usually eat at these. Joy … a board advertising food. We sat and asked for a menu. No food; it’s Sunday. OK just a drink then … and a pee for J – he was 😃. Are there any restaurants near? No, they are far. Grr, by which time my stomach was turning acid. So I dived across the road to a supermarket, and lunch was Bagel Bites and a bar of chocolate! Hunger assuaged, we didn’t fancy the picnic in the car later!

We drove north to Narte Lagoon. A main fishery and huge. We stopped and walked along a causeway to a small monastery.

A second truly crap nights sleep!!! The feckin dogs started barking even earlier. Last night it was 1.30. Tonight it was 11.30. I guess as previous guests have fed them, they hang around the apartment. The pup seems to sleep in the porch. This means that when he hound howls and barks it is right by us. The little fecker then moves round to under our bedroom window. We are used to barking dogs, cockerels, donkeys etc … but not this close or for so long. I managed to doze off again, but J had a pretty sleepless night. I’ve messaged the owner to ask if the dogs can be kept away at night … no reply. We will see what happens tonight. The folk are running a business, so I’d like to leave good reviews, especially given how cheap it is. Concerned that if I go public about the dogs, they will ‘disappear’! Another female chained by the owners house. 2 pups under a bench. What I think father mimed was that the mother was eating her pups! So difficult. Let’s see what tonight brings.

*The culprits! Butter wouldn’t melt, eh! No wonder they’re dozing now … they’re awake at night. And poor sods have had their* *ears* *cropped* *… the big* *feller, ears really cropped close and no tail.*

So an easy day going south of Vlora. First stop was the C12 church in the middle of marshland. We abandoned the car along the dirt track and walked the circle around the marsh. Tiny church remains plus ruins. It was unusual as it has a narthex… a new word to us. It’s an ante chamber or porch separated by a railing in early Christian churches. Not much in evidence here.

We had our picnic along a beach in the sun. Considered going to the ancient site in the military area. However, the sun and lack of sleep (barking dogs again outside our door for hours again) made us sleepy. So we headed home via a butcher and small supermarket.

*The view is still stunning. More so as clear* *and we* *could see the lagoon* *where* *we were* *yesterday*

Riviera to Vlore

Posted on October 30, 2023 by Clunegapyears

28-29/10/2023

We left our cheap quirky apartment with an extra bed in every room

Destination another apartment just south of Vlore. The 3 hour drive was 7 hours. I’d planned some stops, of course.

The first stop was Borsh Castle. The tarmac Road ended just beyond it. Heart sank at the steep cliff, but there was an easy zig zag paved path up. My sort of castle as there was no one else there. Only the church had been restored. Free to roam and clamber. And great views.

*We stopped for a coffee and watched fill containers with spring water. Saw it a few times on the drive.*

Stop 2 was a viewpoint of another Ali Pasha castle. And the No. 3 was the castle on an island. The engineers built the castle and causeway. Then Ali P had them murdered. We often look at places and think what a lovely motorhome overnight stop that would be … this was one.

*The causeway. The young lad fishing was from a French Motorhome… a tad jealous*

*All the rooms radiated off this circle inner chamber*

*Holes must be from manacles as all round the prison*

Stop No. 4 was another Hoxha bunker, but a big one. It was also going to be our picnic stop. J’s vertigo kicked in badly … it did look as if there was a sheer drop. So I had a quick wander to the entrance of the bunker.

And our picnic was at another viewpoint up in the clouds.

*Stop No. 5 picnic in the clouds. Temperature dropped to 16C*

No. 6 and final stop was to tread in the steps of Caesar’s 7 legions who landed easily on a large flat beach and marched over the hills to surprise Pompei just south of Vlore. At the top of Ceasar’s pass fab view as you emerged from the forest.

We received a message from our next accommodation. Don’t try to find the apartment. Meet at Dontello Hotel, my father will be in a white VW Touran … follow him. Really pleased they do it this way, as we zig zagged up some steep un made tracks and semi tarmac tracks to the apartment. We would have definitely lost confidence had we tried to do it ourselves.

On arrival, we cracked open the wine to soak up the views. The apartment is basic, but clean. To eat at night we have to bring the garden table and cracked chairs inside, but who cares at £14 per night.

Butrint Budget Day

Posted on October 27, 2023 by Clunegapyears

27/10/2023

By far the most visited Albanian site. We chatted to a couple from Dublin who had come on a day trip from Corfu. Never less than 5 coaches in the car park.

Butrint spans 2.5 millenia. Occupied and expanded by all. What makes it special, in my opinion, is the location.

*Surrounded on 3+ sides by water with much of the fortified wall still intact.*

A simple leaflet guided us around the site. English info boards. A lot of the buildings had water inside … below the water table. This is not a recent global warming phenomena, but one huge house complex was abandoned during Roman occupation due to regular flooding. They have to keep a significant mosaic covered over due to potential water damage.

*View across to Corfu, which Butrint defended. Ali Pasha built (another) castle at the tip*

We had our picnic on the edge of the car park overlooking the marshlands.

We caught the chain ferry across the river that separates the Butrint Lagoon from the sea. Had to hold Corrie tight as the steel cable ran in a groove the length of the floating pontoon.

*A friend too*k *his big motorhome* *across on this* *recently* *… 10* *ton weight limit!* We *watched a smaller van* *nervously* *board it.*

*Basic but it works.* *And note* *the rubber mats* *for the* *height* *difference*.

We walked the sometimes muddy track to see Ali Pasha’s Castle. The guide book warned most of the path is submerged in winter. Lots of evidence of land slide along our causeway.

*Back at our apartment … muddy trousers have been through the washing machine!*

A good good day and a budget day. Butrint was expensive by Albanian standards at £16.50. Return ferry £2.50. Picnic and salad at home. No coffee or ice cream out. We CAN do a budget day!!!

A View and Blue Eye

Posted on October 27, 2023 by Clunegapyears

26/10/2023

Various stops marked out and a restaurant recommendation for lunch.

Stop 1: The Ruse Mosque, also known as Gjin Aleksi Mosque. Known for the 99 ways of naming Allah written in a circle inside the dome. But it was the mellow stone of the various buildings, restored in 2020, which gave it its charm. I bought a small chocolate bar and a can of juice for £1 from the small shop. Massive smiles and thank yous from the proprietress … they really are suffering financially here.

Stop 2 was aborted. The direct route proved to be a very narrow, bendy, steep, disintegrating concrete track. We can live without seeing the Delvina Islamic Complex.

*Modern buildings here generally really do not meet my style standards. This mosque looks like a pap*er hat.

Stop 3 was a gem. Phoinke was a capital city and controlled the valleys below. Large enough to mint its own coins. Built originally pre C4 BC, it was extended during Roman occupation. Then, during the communist era, it was used as a military base. We must have seen at least 12 bunkers. And gun emplacements. They dug tunnels and installed buildings under and in the ancient buildings! So the ancient sites are OK, but the views were brilliant. And, until the end of our walk around it, we had it to ourselves.

*The amphitheatre seated 17,000! Only excavated in 1980. Only the stone from the first 2 rows of seats had not been plun*dered.

Stop 4 was equally stunning. A Blue Eye! Water from a karst spring bubbles up in a deep pool. Deep blue at the centre and green foliage at the edges, it really does look like the iris of an eye. During the Communist era, the area was reserved for the party elite and mere mortals were banned. An indicator of how lovely a place is.

*You park at the bottom and walk along this new road for 1.9km. Lacking landscap*ing.

*Albania has no natural fuels, so hydro electricity is prevalent. This is the reservoir as we walked across the dam.*

*No camera filters. The water really was this colour*

*The Eye from the viewing platform. Stunning.*

We had been recommended a taverna here. Whilst we are doing these couple of extra weeks on a budget 😆, it is the 2 year anniversary of James’ heart bypass, so a celebration in order. Setting on a pontoon over the water. Tick. Free tables. Tick. Sun shining. Tick. Have each other. Tick. Bugger …. they are not doing food as its the end of the season. Hungry, we stopped at the first restaurant we came to on the way home. OK, but not special.

Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels

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