For the first time in ages, J ran and I did a short pilates. After all the driving, my back demanded it. My stomach muscles paid for it for the next 2 days.
The Stalag Luft museum started with a short film … the area had been a German military zone, and there were POW camps here in WW1. During WW2, there were camps housing 300,000+ POWs. Stalag Luft III housed 49,000 airmen. Initially, officers and then a further camp was built for non-coms. The German Luftwaffe ran the airmen camp following German tradition. POWs were relatively well treated. They were not used as forced labour. They received Red Cross parcels. To pass the time, they organised extensive entertainment, including theatre / cabinet twice weekly.
Despite the camp’s location …. a long way from neutral Switzerland and the route to the coast was German or occupied territory. Numerous escape attempts were made. Tunnelling was the method. Another factor against the would be escapees was the camp was sited on sandy soil. They used bed slats, wood from Red Cross parcels, mattresses, etc, to shore up the tunnels. After the Great Escape, all beds were limited to 9 slats! The subsoil sand was also a different colour to the top soil, so had to be mingled or hidden. Huts were half a foot above ground and English speaking Goons used to lie underneath trying to ear wig escape plans.
Tom, Dick and Harry were dug simultaneously. One abandoned as the camp was extended where it planned to exit. Harry was used and was a few metres short, and escapees were discovered. 79 escaped. Only 3 made it to Norway. 50 were shot on Hitler’s orders. Two chaps named Churchill and Nelson escaped the firing line due to their names. Lucky.
Model of Stalg Luft IIICaught exiting the mock up of HarryWe walked through the pine wood, noticing the sheer size of the camps area to the mass grave. The cement lines added in 1961. They estimate 120,000bodies. Many now exhumed. The site of the exit of Harry, which was several metres short of the shelter of the forest. Just one of the camp remains.The museum and our previous night’s parking.
Pleased to report a dry night in bed. No, incontinence or roof leaks despite the heavy rain. Perhaps yesterday’s leak was the heavy downpour combined with driving, forcing the rain under the lipped roof light. Will need sorting, but possibly be able to be left till Jez on return to the UK.
I took C for her morning walk, discovering some of the above ground bunkers. Poland seems to be like Slovakia … you pay an entrance then share the cost of the guide by the number of people. Tickets £14.50, but the English speaking guide would have been an extra £35. So we booked onto the 11.00 Polish tour, with no guide cost as over 10 people. On my morning walk, I’d spotted audio guide numbers … downloaded the free app.
Obviously, the guide gave a lot more info than the audio guide, but he answered some of our questions in very good English. A few facts:
1. The German army was restricted to 100,000 men post WWI, leaving them vulnerable. Poland was a threat as their army was over 1 million.
2. Germany had to design a defensive strategy. A series of underground tunnels just inside the Polish German border running from the coast north south. Workers from Germany were paid 3x normal wages and could complete a bunker in 2.5 months. The tunnels were worked on for only 2.5 years. Very impressive project management. However, they were never completed as Germany’s strategy became offensive …
3. The middle section, where we were is 32km long. A narrow gauge railway was installed with 14 stations. These are alphabetically named … I’d gone looking for Heinrich on my morning walk as I spotted an ‘attraction’ on the map. No wonder I couldn’t find it, it was underground. Most of this section is now occupied by central Europe’s largest bat colony. Apparently, they are not in this tourist section as they need access to water during hibernation, and this part is dry.
Overground bunkers, ventilation shaft and flame thrower. Damage to the left side from Russian guns.The tourist entrance. Fortunately the 5 metre pit immediately through the door had been filled in. Corrie photo bombing againSome room mock ups as they were never fitted out. The electric cabling and pipes were laid under the floorsWe climbed down these (and up) adjacent to an unfinished lift shaft.Poland is purple. The red line are the tunnel defences. Narrowgauge railwayStation Heinrich. During WW2 Daimler Benz moved aircraft engine repair here. We must’ve walked over easily over a km each way along this dead straight tunnel.
Enough. We found it fascinating and can’t believe it only received one line in only one of our guide books. Thank goodness for Atlas Obscura, where I’d found it.
After lunch, it was a short hop to see Jesus
The view from his feet, confirmed the area is very flat. Apparently there was a public outcry when radio mast were placed in the crown.
I’m trying to find things to look at to break up the driving. Zagan was attractive and it had a Lidl … not seen any large supermarkets yet.
Corrie phot bombing the Planets in ZaganA socialite lived here and entertained the likes of Verdi and Liszt, so the theatrical faces above the windows are appropriate.Backend of the Palace, and James‘Confused as to why Lidl has Greek edition toilet roll. Most places in Greece don’t even allow paper down the pan.
Our overnight is outside Stalag Luft III, famous for the Great Escape. A small camper has arrived and erected a tent for the 3 teenage children … wild camping seems to be accepted. I had a conversation with a local. Not really a conversation, as my German is sehr schlecht, but it was better than his.
Summer 2023 – August I think… They say we’re in Ecosse – sounds Franglais to me….. I think we are in Scotland – home of Andy Murray, Murrayfield, Muray Firth and Murraymints ! I made the last one up…..
I must talk about Oscar – very sadly passed away in Calais – my mate – we used to snuggle together on his bed at night. But no pain or suffering which was good – much missed…
Back to Ecosseshire – we visited the Elphins – giant metal horses which changed colour at night. Then the Falkirk Wheel – they made me go upside in this device – Not my fancy at all. We ran along the canal – I went slow to make them look fast – the things I do for them….but they do look after us – sorry me…..
Got to see / sniff old and new friends. Sotland – Jesus – very lively but didn’t play? Scottish setters….. one minus one leg but very agile…..South West England and we saw Evie – a bit rumbustious and Kensey – not too well. Zoa made Evie look calm. Then Doris and Kevin at the same time. I’m exhausted and need my/their bed…
Off to Polski via Rustington – more hairy dogs – a tunnel train, night at Bergues. Polski was in a curtain – something about ironing – K has ironed curtains- why ?
Two days driving and we’re overnight at Bunkerville for a tour tomorrow – I may decide to stay in bed – K made me walk 113 km this afternoon – well, 13 actually. They discovered a leak over their bed – I hope it doesn’t disturb my sleep under their duvet – I might have to relocate James !
Farewell to Woodlands Farm in Chichester … until the end of Sept. Do hope the British start camping again … soon. The site was spectacularly empty. Dropped the aging UK car at the Aged Ps. Had a shower, ‘cos we could and we don’t know where our next water will come from, and off we went.
First stop was another huge lunch with Mel, Ian and Jimmy in Rustington. Even got a quick hello and goodbye with Ruth and Brian. Sober to Dover lunch for me as the driver. Actually, Le Shuttle, due to the recent rebrand, but sober and Dover almost rhyme. Le Shuttle even managed to put us on an early train. We promptly did our traditional tunnel crossing decamp to bed for a nanny nap! Quiet night at Bergues, about 40 mins into France.
0830 on Monday we were at Leclerc to stock up on box wine. Not sure, given how far northPELL is, how good the wine is. I’m sure we’ll sample some of the Polish vodka at some point.
Monday and Tuesday were planned to be driving days. However, we made such good progress, that we ate up 749km, leaving only 292km for the morrow. Out came the guide books … what could I put in for the next afternoon en route? Lagow became our destination. A castle and pretty village on a slip of land between two lakes.
3 pages on a spreadsheetof most of the places we’d like to see on this trip. I have put on some xxx OR yyy … in 6.5 weeks will only scratch the surface.
A quick soup lunch and then J joined me for a quick wander to the castle, now a hotel, and a view of the lake. Corrie and I continued up the other side of the lake. We followed a Nordic walking trail for about 11km. Good after such a long drive and so many calories imbibed.
LagowLake view. Quite a few trees down, so I was over and under. Corrie mostly under. The return walk was through a village. 3 linear ponds. Modern play ground. Old renovated houses with immaculate gardens.
Only a short drive, we thought, to the Bunkery Ostwall museum (love the name) we plan to visit tomorrow. I’d read that most roads are dodgy and we’ve experienced the tarmac turned into crazy paving. Our 2 sat navs are programmed to avoid unpaved roads. I guess they count century old cobbles as paved.
Average speed 10mph for over 6km.2ndgear and wind wipers deployed. Fortunatelylittle oncoming traffic.
The ticket office for tomorrow was shut, but the kooky cafe had an English speaker. First tour at 10. And, of course, we can sleep in the car park. Though not sure how much sleep J will get. He discovered a wet duvet … on his side. The roof light, which was replaced about 2 years ago, is leaking. Duvet drying on the dash board in intermittent sun.
We obediently did a 5 point turn in Callander as the road to the destination car park said no motorhomes. The main town carpark had a cluster of motorhomes, but signs clearly saying no sleeping in vehicles, although apparently some do. Paying for parking was a pain … none of the machines accepted cards or cash. It had to be done through a parking app. What annoys me is that they charge an extra fee so £3.40 became £3.70 for 24 hours … but no staying over night!
From here, we walked up to the Brackinn Falls and then a loop to Scout Pools … amazing waterfalls.
I’d read there had been two fatalities … common sense would tell you not to swim. No chance of Corrie ever volunteering to get wet!So much water gushing through. Bracklinn has deep vertical sides.Scout Pools calmer and we did see people swimming here.
Great help and leaflets in the tourist information centre. We shall bike ride tomorrow. Oh, did I mention that we had 2 ice creams each! Including tablet and macaroon flavours.
An allsorts pipe band in CallanderOvernight for 2 nights was a couple of miles north of Callander with 3 other vans in a large carpark with paths signed.
We’ve not cycled for over a year, other than my riding for 2km to the supermarket in Kelso! So bikes checked, and helmets worn. The first stretch around Loch Venachar was loose stones, up and down – nothing major but not fun. Our ebikes are big and heavy hybrids but not designed for proper off road. Additionally, the dog trailer doesn’t have brakes, affecting descents and especially descents with a turn. I’ve hit the deck a few times as a result. I asked J if he was enjoying it, not much either, so we dropped down to the road … easy peasey! Thereafter, we were on much better firm cycle or vehicle tracks. Except for one section through bushes to look at a dam.
Stopping first at Brig O Turk for coffee and cake. Then, a short ride to Achray Farm for homemade ice cream. The flavours come from the garden, so today was meadowsweet and blackcurrant swirl. The milk from their own goats. Just delicious. Despite our sugar filled stomachs we still managed to stop later for picnic lunch.
Corrie slept well later!
We only had time for a shorter bike ride the next morning. Our bums were grateful. We headed up past the Falls of Lenny. J asked where we were stopping for coffee and cake … it seems to have become a daily feature! No cafes on our route today, I said! I was wrong. So coffee and brunch at a Forest Holidays cafe/shop. I googled … a 2 bed chalet is £2060 for a week in August! OK, so it has hot tub and BBQ, but even so, it’s still a shed! Our 3 double bed house in Devon is discounted to £1650 for a week in August and still several weeks vacancy.
Falls of Lenny … more a series of rapids
First stop was Stirling retail centre for the supermarket and Dunelm. How can it be profitable to sell long and lined curtains for £65 and duvet sets for £24? Our bedroom in Crete sorted and a spare duvet set for the spare room. 😀
We drove to Livingston to stay on the driveway of some fellow motorhomers … should have been near Paisley seeing another friend, but he is poorly. Sarah and Mac read our blog, and had spotted we were nearby. Lovely supper and chat, and we hope they’ll come out to Crete. A plane seems so boring, so possibly on a motorbike or train … planning stages!
Clune Gap Years 