OK, so my research can, just occasionally, be flawed. We stopped at one of the small oil museums on the way to the big one. So small, it had only roadside parking and no attendant.
It really wasn’t worth ringing the telephone number on the gate to call someone to open up. We could see the small drills from the fence.
Biecz, pronounced Beee-ech, was our next stop en route to the big and proper oil museum. Another large Rynek / square. The largest in Europe, in relation to the town size. Biecz had been a major trading route, a lot of wine, apparently! Consequently there were many impressive buildings.
Kerstin bought postcards on day 1, stamps on day 3 and only just found a post boxFirst stop in the square … an ice cream!Kerstin and I climbed the tower. The young guide was happy to point out the sights from the top. One of the first Polish hospitals. A monastery with 4 monks. The river that was rerouted by the Austrians.Church. Tower and Gate housesPart of the old town wallWe walked around the back of the church.
Whilst up the tower, we also were chatted to by a 9 year old boy, wanting to practice his English … so some random phrases … like my best friend is called … He is in a class of 9 pupils … Kerstin and both commented on UK and German class sizes of 30+ I read that Poland has the 5th best education in the world.
We expected to arrive at the property oil museum before 3.00, giving us time to see it before it closed at 5 00. However, there was a mahoosive diversion. We didn’t understand the signs, so had to do a 5 point turn 5km later when the road stopped. Then a loop around. I was feeling tired, so we parked up in a lay by near the museum until 5.30. J nanny napped, and I dozed off for 10 mins in the chair. No idea what Kerstin did. But I do know I later beat her at crib. One for his knob!
The car park was empty so we got yhe tables and chairs out for dinner. Then we heard a strange noise. We went to investigate in the dark. The nodding donkey we had spotted earlier in the woods was working. Actually drilling for oil. We could certainly smell it!
The alarm went off at 7.00 … up and at ’em. We left just after 7.30. Our car park now had 3 attendants to entice early walkers into their parking. And whilst it was slow leaving Zakopane, the road north was busy but moving. The road south, even at this hour, was pretty slow. Is the North of Poland empty???
A Lidl shop. A real pain as I dislike shopping, but without a working fridge, I have to shop every 2 days. Then onward to Dunajec Castle. A large paid for parking just below the castle, with a couple of coaches already, and it was only 9.45. Stalls selling tat, more stuffed white geese (they’re everywhere – why?) and smoked cheese all the way up to the castle.
Dunajec CastleThis part of Poland had been ruled by Austria so wasn’t as damaged by the war. However, when the Russians arrived they plundered windows and contents. Fortunately the roof and walls survived. Lookingdown to the dam. An unusual carriage. Kerstin and I guessed a hearse, for porting hay? No. The lovely young girl practised her English to explain it was used by young gentry rebelling against their wealth, and of course their parents! They’d sit on hay bales. The carriage would be drawn by 4 horsesrigged in an unconventional line. Oh, and to complete the picture, each horse was a different colour. View of the castle from the dam
Going around the castle with our English paper guide, we’d been flattened by constant tour groups. On our return to the car park, we discovered where all these people had come from. It was full of coaches. A nice castle, but it really didn’t warrant this number of visitors.
We lunched in the van and only managed to exit the car park once we realised we had to hand over our £4 to the attendant at the opposite car park, who then zapped the barrier open.
Next stop was a campsite, so we could take turns on the raft ride. Fortunately, we drove into the town first to investigate the rafting. Kerstin went and asked at one raft operator. We could take Corrie for free, so we could all go and they had their own parking (free)! Result … no need for a campsite and we could go together.
The rafts used to be hollowed out logs, lashed together. The spruce branches prevent most splashes. Two boatmen, one aft, one stern, steer over the rapids using long poles like a gondalierThis was about as exciting as the rapids got, but the raft did move fast over them. This is how goods used to be transported. The Dunajec River here was busy with rafts, dingeys and kayaks. Another top Polish destination. But being on the water was restful.
After the obligatory ice cream at the destination we caught the mini bus (full) back to Jez. Then drove on towards Krosno … Kerstin was checking P4N overnight stops as we drove … found a lake side small parking. As well as anglers, there was a young Polish couple who are digital nomads. They’d just been kayaking and happy to chat. As I feared, most National Park’s are dog unfriendly. So no point heading down to Bieszczady National Park to see the bison then. Shame. And yes, finding free water is hard. They book onto a campsite every week to empty, fill and do laundry. But not many campsites as we move east.
We cooked on the Cadac and then ate by the lake. Impossible to capture, but we watched lighting contained inside a cloud. Most bizarre. It was like a brain zapping.
We spent last night in a car park near Auschwitz. The tour Kerstin and I took, didn’t finish till gone 7.30. We showered and had supper in the Auschwitz car park as they had water and EHU as part of the car park ticket.
It was a very slow drive down to Zakopane. Single track and just very busy. Another new road is being built alongside, but not ready for us to use. So we didn’t arrive till late lunch time. Car parking everywhere, even people letting out spaces in their front gardens. A larger one (looked like they had turned the whole garden into a hard standing) just about had room for us. And suggested we moved to the back and upper level overnight. All for about £18!
Our overnight parking. Lovely and peaceful next to a babbling stream.
I’d identified 2 walks we could do, so the intention was to stay a second night. We set off for the longer of the walks, money ready to pay the £2 National Park entrance fee. But no. No dogs. What a pain! Not allowed even on a lead. The helpful girl gave us a map and indicated the dogs allowed black route, which skirted the edge of the park. Only 2.5km each way, but beggars can’t be choosers.
On the black route.Love a harvest and rolling hillsA small wooden hut was a smokery. Bought one … similar flavourto haloomi but not squeeky or needing to be cooked.
On our return we found an ice cream served with avocaat and cream. Nice. J returned to Jez for a nanny nap with Corrie, so Kerstin and I went into the National Park.
The waterfall was the main destination for most walkers … 2.5 km up. The rocks were slippery, having been polished by the sheer number of boots.
Kerstin and I really fancied going on to do a loop, but we wouldn’t have returned to James until 8.00. Had to have supper … and we wanted to get up and go to beat the traffic in the morning. It might be dubbed Poland’s winter capital and be pretty, but with no dogs rule, it wasn’t going to keep us beyond the one night.
We left our lay by Krakow car park and drove the short distance to the Wieliczka Salt Mine. We were asked to move from our initial parking and directed to the main car park which had coach bays. The security guard checked we were OK with the gates being shut. The next morning I had a discussion with the parking attendant about NOT paying £20 just to park over night (no services), in addition to the £10 to park during the day. My argument was that we’d not been told and no overnight charge was shown on the price board. I was persuasive enough.
The salt mines were justifyably one of Unesco’s first World heritage sights. We walked 2.5km of the 287km of tunnels. Many have now been back filled as collapsing or flooding. We descended 135m (442ft) although the mine went a lot deeper to 327m.
Fortunately the local area is covered in pine forests … so much uses in shoring up the tunnels. Apparently the salt preserves the wood.
Neolithic man harvested surface salt from brine and the first excavations commenced in C13 until 1997, when salt prices fell and tunnels started flooding.
Various technologies were used to extract and transport the grey rock salt. A huge number of statues … apparently carving from rock salt is difficult, even for an expert. Poland is a strongly Catholic country, and under some occupations, religion was discouraged. Despite this, the miners erected shrines and chapels, which moved as they moved along the tunnels. There’s a massive cathedral. The walls are covered in carved reliefs. There were a lot of these chandeliers throughout the mine. Pope John Paul II held a mass here. Even an underground lakeFortunately the lift took us back up … Old miners lifts with small cages stacked on top. An experience of it’s own.
The salt mines are one of Polands’ major attractions and we can see why. We oozed the morning and set off after lunch for Auschwitz
At 8.00, I did battle with the Ojcow National Park ticket machine again. Ticket to 11.30, which would give us time for a short walk and an ice cream. Well, that was the plan. The walk part was fine … although it was hunt the limestone outcrops amongst the beech trees.
Arriving at Ojcow hamlet, we found an establishment that was open … only just finished cleaning the tables. No ice cream. Brunch then. Not wanting a big meal, we opted for 2 types of pierogi. Soft filled dumplings with assorted fillings. Nice but not worth a repeat. And very filling. At least one traditional Polish food ticked off.
I had Russkie … curdled cheese and potato which was nicer than it sounds. J had meat.
By the time our meals arrived, time had marched on. So we had a march back up hill to Jez, arriving somewhat after 11.30. Fortunately, no ticket inspector.
Decision time … where to go next, bearing in mind Kerstin was flying in Friday evening. Not too far, said I. Let’s check out the free or car park parking in Krakow and do a bit of the city before K arrives. We went via Lidl for a limited shop as the fridge had packed up (again) in gas.
Having found what seemed to be the perfect spot, we had lunch, J rested, and then we set off on a walk. Just as the city police arrived and started clamping the cars! Lucky escape for us. We drove to a few other car parks but they were either very expensive, no attendant or just for cars. Ho hum … enough time investigating. Time to head for a campsite.
Camping Smok isn’t expensive, compared to the UK at £33 per night for 2 adults, a dog and EHU, but it seems a lot. So we made good use of the electricity and water tap the next morning. I did laundry: clothes, bedding, Corrie’s beds and rugs. J cleaned and then I polished the outside windows and Jez’s nose. Phew.
Camping Smok
After lunch it was an easy bus and tram, thanks to the Jakodjade trasport app. We pay for gps.mycity app annually and had downloaded the Krakow self guided walking tours. We planned to visit the main sights tomorrow with Kerstin. Today, we followed the Jewish Tour. The area definitely has it’s own feel. Lots of Jewish business and signs. And some fab looking small eateries.
A lot of synagogues were mostly used as warehouses during WW2. One was used as an ammunition store. Only 2 are still in use.The Old Synagogueand J purposefully walking off to find a bush!The main Jewish square. Shame so many cars. This square was in the former Ghetto. Different coloured stones marked where the walls were. The Germans collected Jews here before moving them to extermination camps. The chairs are a reminder of how the Jews brought domestic items with them, little realising they would be of no use. On the far side of the square is a pharmacy. It was the only one in the Ghetto. The Polish owner would pass information, food and hid Jewish families’ previous items when they were shipped out.
Supper was bacon, corn and cheese risotto. Sort of! Couldn’t find the tin of corn and couldn’t buy arborio rice, so used bulgar wheat. Different but OK. I left J washing up whilst I bussed to the airport. Kerstin’s flight was early and we even managed to catch a direct bus back in time for a few glasses of wine.
I’d spotted the van of some motorhome bloggers on the campsite. Useful chat as they are ahead of us and doing roughly our route in reverse. Some useful overnight tips. https://manvannoplan.co.uk/
The campsite wouldn’t allow a late check out, so we moved 2 bus stops along the road to a perfect lay by.
Wawel Castle. Until we went in we’d no idea how large it was Wawel Castle… we thought the way the side extentions were staggered that they must have been toilets. Cathedral inside the castleAlsoinside the cathedral… it is a big area!Kerstin and I went in the cathedralA pretty side Chapel. Liked the black marble The crypt was the resting place for centuries worth of Polish Kings and Bishops. As we’d walked into the castle grounds, we were yelled at … NO DOGS. J kindly elected to sit out. Another church and another crypt. This one only a few tombs for recent poets, scientists etc. Lots of room for future Polish stars. Modern tombJordan proposed to Maddy on this spot in February but he didn’t go down on one knee … to be fair there was snow on the ground. Another church with unusual stain glass. This is the creation. The Basilica in the main market square … one of the largest in Europe. The Cloth Hall
Krakow survived WWI and WW2 so the buildings are original. It truly justifies being labelled one of Europe’s most beautiful cities. There are some appealing museums, such as the Underground and Schindler’s museum. Not to mention the castle rooms. It really does deserve a week … with no dog
