120- 126 : Wonders of the World

Posted on August 30, 2015 by Clunegapyears

In the last week, we have seen so many magnificent sights, they are the New Wonders of the World – according to us!

120 – Monday: Wonder 1 – Leaning Tower of Pisa

Having arrived at a campsite the night before we continued with housekeeping … cleaning and washing. After lunch we wandered into Pisa and found some repair equipment, such as glue and screws. We had plenty of time before collecting Maddy from the airport to have a wander. I had been to Pisa a couple of times before and believed there was not much there other than the Square of Miracles with the Duomo, Basilica and Leaning Tower (Campanille). However, we discovered some lovely piazzas and arcades of shops.

J had the brainwave to get the bus to the airport rather than disturb / pack up Chardonnay. So EUR2 each and a short ride to the airport … having watched a man go apoplectic as he missed his airport transfer and had to catch the public bus … the air was blue … shame as he was with his young son. Plenty of time at the airport and not driving, so we had a couple of glasses to pass the time!

My Munchkin arrived :). Bus back into the centre and we bought timed tickets to go up the Leaning Tower. We wandered around the cloisters that had been badly damaged and saw statues and some of the restored frescos and had supper.

I scaled the Tower about 28 years ago with my father. It had then been shut to tourists and only reopened in 2001 after inserting a concrete plinth underneath to correct the lean slightly and prevent further lean. As you look at it, it really is amazing that it does not collapse. Incredibly, it started leaning after they constructed the third story and they kept building! The circular stairs hug the wall and you can sense the angle of lean as you climb. They also get narrower and have more wear to the tread. Climbing is not for the faint hearted or unfit. At the top, the narrow walkway is all of about 90 cm wide. Now there is a very high fence, but there was not when I climbed up all those years ago. I can still remember moving around the walkway with my back pressed to the tower thinking that this really is not safe! Some super views.

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Other people taking Instagram pix

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Maddy doing an Instagram pic!

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Katherine doing an Instagram pic!

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James doing an Instagram pic; James style! … if only he had an account!

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Amazing views

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James declined the climb up and rested, until Maddy poured water on him …

121 – Tuesday: Pick up in Padua

We drove to Padua to pick up Kerstin who had arrived by train from Germany a couple of days before. Having set Sally Sat Nav for her hotel near the station, we were guided into the tram lines and one way systems …. a slight concern, but Kerstin was on the look out for us. So a quick traffic halt as we bundled her, and her back pack on board.

We drove to a campsite on the Branta Riviera and had a BBQ.

122 – Wednesday: Villa Pisani and onto Venice

The main reason for staying on the Branta Riviera was to be near Venice, our destination for the next evening. However, the guide book had bigged it up. Accessible from the Venice Lido, the wealthy merchants has sailed up the river and built numerous villas along its banks. Some were small holding and some designed to be ostentatious to impress. Boat rides along the river were available, but at EUR65 PP, this was a NO.

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Villa Pisani is billed as the most impressive and open to the public for all of EUR10pp. As it happened, no discount for J’s great age, but Kerstin had a 25% discount for being a Professor – much delight. Pisani had been partly redecorated under Napoleon and Hitler and Mussolini had their first meeting here. However, it lacked a cohesive charm and was very soul-less – guess we have been much spoilt by the National Trust. It was, however, perfect for such a morning of heavy rain. Kerstin and I had a coffee and met an English couple, who had hired a boat from which to do Venice; they had even been able to sail part way up the Grand Canal.

After lunch in the carpark we set off for Venice. Whilst Sally had been programmed to avoid toll roads, i had omitted to include ferry crossings. With her destination set for a campsite on the spit of land the other side of Venice, she guided us along a long bridge and INTO Venice to the port. The crossing would have cost EUR56, but Sally advised us that re-routing along terra firma was only an hour and Maddy advised us that she does not like boats. So we turned back along the long bridge and headed to the spit. It actually took about 2 hours as the traffic was horrendous. I was later informed that it was a major change over day for all the holiday villages that inhabit the area. Slightly concerned that the campsite I had ear marked would prove to be similar to the ones we were passing, we were delighted that we had a large pitch and it was quiet. The receptionist was extremely helpful and sold us the ferry tickets and we were able to BBQ 🙂

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Our Pitch for two nights.

123 – Thursday: Wonder 2 – Venice

A short walk to the ferry port (the main reason for picking this campsite) and a 40 min ride to near St Mark’s Square. Despite being early, there were already massive queues to get into the Duomo. Venice is much larger than most people realise … 122 islands, canals and waterways everywhere with small arched bridges. We twisted and turned the narrow lanes to reach the Rialto Bridge, which was partly under scaffolding and busy. A rip off coffee and dry bun (what do you expect!) and we wandered N to some of the quieter streets. Our ferry ticket was valid for 24 hours on all the public ferries, so we hopped onto the Number 41, which took us around the main island complex. At the end of this line, we caught the Number 1, which took us all the way up the Grand Canal. A real treat and the guide book earned its weight as it explained all the buildings as we passed them. We selected a restaurant for lunch with aircon and it was reasonable value. Maddy got her pizza in Venice!

We wandered some more, but by now it was getting extremely busy and uncomfortable. We caught the ferry to Murano, which is where the glass making was moved to in the 15th Century. A very different feel to it; more residential. Had a coffee and gasped at the prices of the glasswares. Managed to catch a boat directly to where we wanted via two other major Venice islands.

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As we had an early start the next day, K went to pay … but the cash desk (and card reader) had officially closed :(. Oops – we really needed to be on our way as soon as the gates opened at 7.00 a.m. in the morning. Fortunately, the lovely girl on reception said she could process the payment with cash and would leave her boss, who opens up, a note that we had paid. Service and with a smile. 🙂

124 – Friday: An early start and into Wonder 3: Postojna Caves

We packed up efficiently, of course and drove to Venice airport. The traffic at 7.00 was, needless to say, very quiet. James and Kerstin dropped Maddy and I at the airport and went off to have a coffee. I received a text from Kerstin that James was also having TWO croissant! They are full of air, aren’t they?!? Maddy was already checked in, but as we have no printer, we thought we would have to queue, but as she had no luggage to check in, it was the fast line and all really quick. Full marks to Monarch airlines …. the flight and a pre-assigned seat was all of £42. Maddy and I also decided to have a drink and oozed around the airport for a bit. A hug and K watched M disappear again until October half term … A text to James, and he and Kerstin came and picked up K within 5 mins.

Kerstin only had till Tuesday afternoon before she returned to Germany and she had a shopping list of destinations. So we set Sally Sat Nav for the 1st destination on her bucket list – Postojna Caves. We realised the guide book had not over egged it when we saw the size of the FULL car parks and the size of the complex. They tried to sell tickets for extra museums and exhibitions, but we settled for the caves and Predjama Castle. We even had a timed ticket, so we had an obligatory ice cream and then Kerstin and I investigated the mill, which was actually pretty basic. But what was of more interest to most visitors were the dog kennels housed inside!

We presented ourselves at the cave entrance at the allotted time, along with half the population of natives and visitors to Slovenia. It was EFFICIENT. You scanned your ticket and stood by the sign with your language. Then as a body, you moved forward to the train with the language guide. We boarded the train. It rattled though the caves for about 4 km – you had to mind your limbs and head as in parts, the rock had been carved out just to accommodate the minimum that was needed! We all experienced a slight concern …. the train was so fast, we barely had a retina impression of the stalactites and stalagmites … a blur. However, the train stopped, we alighted and we had a further 1.7 km of walking through the caves. Over the years, we had all done a lot of caves in lots of countries, but these, we agreed, were the seriously the MOST AMAZING CAVES WE HAVE EVER SEEN. There was cavern after cavern of varying formations: the colour depending sometimes on the soil and mineral deposits above. We saw golden, reddish and pure white drip stones. Before the electric train, diesel was used and the formations are stained black. There is a Russian Bridge, built by POW in 1916. The final cavern is used as a concert hall and can seat 10,000 people – must be amazing. Here, there are also tanks that housed two Proteus anguinus – a form of salamander only about 8” long. These are known as ‘human fish’ and found only in some of this region’s (Karst area) caves. For the animal lovers … the Human Fish is blind, only lives in water in caves, can go 12 years without food, but still manage to reproduce! Where do they find the energy???

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I think Kerstin would have been up for doing the castle in the same afternoon, but J and I vetoed this and headed for Pivka Jama campsite. Very wooded, over the top of another cave … the area is riddled! A BBQ, which included a strange dessert! A local had wandered around selling his honey (beekeeping is a really big thing), which we bought. On the embers of the BBQ, we made a foil plate and toasted pine nuts. To this we added slithers of local cheese and just as it was melting, added honey. Delicious – TY James for not consuming … more for Kerstin and I.

125 – Saturday: Wonder 4: Predjama Castle

In the morning Kerstin went down the Pikva Cave and complained about the number of stairs she had to encounter. K and J unimpressed as we had gone for a run / slog. She did come back with the information that a lot of the caves are pretty much connected. We stuck camp and headed for Predjama Castle.

Perched up a rock face / half cave and half castle. It is a seriously dramatic location. Various owners, but the most notable by far was Erazem Lueger. He was a C15 Robin Hood type who robbed the rich to feed the poor. He was under siege in the castle by the Austrians, using the secret passages out the back of the caves to carry on his daring exploits. He was so brazen that he sent fresh cherries, which had not yet ripened in this valley, and roasted OX etc, down to his attackers. He developed a mystical status. However, he had an ignoble downfall – literally! The weakest point in the castle was the toilet and the Austrian’s bribed a servant to alert them to when Erazum ‘went’ and the blasted him. What an earth shattering experience!

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Models of the Human Fish that you could buy … no prizes for guesses what we decided they looked like!!!

We lunched in the car park and people watched … car park manoevres and a group of ageing scouts (average age 60) who persisted in peeing in one particular spot in the car park!

Slovenia is NOT big; it is the size of Wales, so it was a shortish hop onto Ljubljana. We had identified a CamperStop just the the east of the city, which cost EUR10 compared to 30+ on the city campsite. We were not sure what to expect, but it was a real find. It is restaurant with a motorhome parking; unusually with toilet, shower and full services AND free if you eat in the restaurant. Mein Host, yes his German is better than his English, is obviously an industrious sort. The place is immaculate and he keeps chicken, pigmy pigs and goats, offers a bakery service for the morning and loaned me a map of campsites to photograph. A cheeky chappy waiter helped us perfect and judge our versions of HVALA – thank you.

126 – Sunday: Ljubljana – Not a Capital City

Mein Host sells bus tickets and dispenses city maps … the CamperStop is at the end of the bus line. We caught an early bus in – 8.30!!!! Must be the Kerstin influence, as this is far too early for J and I!

Ljubljana is not like other capitals. Slovenia only became independent in1991. It has a young feel as it is home to the main University, and since it is free to students, most young people have degrees and doctorates. Unfortunately, since the Slovenia recession, many are unemployed. It does have an intimate feel – I suppose due to its small size; certainly Bristol is very large and sprawling by comparison. James was tour guide with a slight detour to see the Sunday Antiques market and several attempts to see the saint’s corpse in the church (yes, really, this was how it was described in the guidebook, but it was actually very disappointing – wax face and hands, nothing like the real C15 saint’s corpse in Lucca) … until … he relinquished all responsibility as we were handed a leaflet for a free walking tour … due to start in 10 minutes. No brainer. As we have found before, these walking tours really hep to give a sense of place and time and tell you so many snippets that the guide books omit. Well worth the tip one gives.

The Tourist Information for Slovenia proved a real gem … with a little pressing, the young girl found loads of leaflets and marked interesting places, not on the main tourist trail on a map for us.

We lunched and Kerstin wandered up to the library to see the reading room, but like the whole of Ljubljana, it was small …. nice story, that during WW2, it had just been built and the local populace did not want the Germans to use the building, so they hand carted several thousand books from the old libraries. Sadly, many of these were later lost when the building was bombed.

We walked up to the castle, via a wine booth. Kerstin is SUCH A BAD influence, she enticed us to buy a bottle of red to drink whilst we imbibed the views from the castle. Bless, the vendor even de-corked it for us! We did not make it into the castle, but enjoyed the views.

We caught the cable car back down and back on the bus. Supper in the restaurant … Kerstin and I shared a pork rib dish and then helped J out with his Wiener Schnitzel … we still had a doggy bag!

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Slovenia is still 80% Catholic, despite Communist rule (Tito) and a nun was dispensing food and checking he was alive …

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We first saw a bridge of love locks in Helsinki. Wonder what happens when the relationship breaks up … how many still have keys with which to remove them?

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The triple bridge at the heart of the centre.

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Both with wooden bikes!

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K dispensing coffee …

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K dispensing wine into the coffee cups…

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From the return bus … a fairly typical hay drying rack

Days 118 – 119: Hills and onto Pisa

Posted on August 17, 2015 by Clunegapyears

118 – Saturday 15.08: High on Hills

Some of our Clune Reunion group were departing today, so our numbers were somewhat depleted and they missed one of the best days out.

A slight delay as the coach had a flat and the driver had to fetch a different coach.

Relaxing at the hotel until the coach arrived

Our first stop was San Gimignano where we had free time to wander and have a coffee (wine in J’s case … the local Chianti was begging to be tasted!). The town has about 11 remaining towers and the view on the approach was stunning. Lovely mellow stone and squares. Views from every side. As it was the Feast of the Assumption, it was brimming with people and cars trying to park … again we will come back out of season.

Distinctive towers of San Gimignano

Views … and James

Views … and Katherine

Typical square … mellow stone

We then boarded the coach to go to a Chianti organic winery for lunch. We were sort of wondering why leave San Gimignano, as it was so pretty … until we got to the winery. The view looking back to San Gimignano from the luncheon terrace …

View back to San Gimignano. The landscape all around the hill towns was what people think of for Tuscany … small hills, farm houses atop with patchwork fields and cypress trees.

Cool terrace for lunch with regular sprayed mist to cool us. We saw the white cattle our slithers of succulent beef came from and drank the local wine.

After lunch we drove to Volterra, another hill town. Our guide explained about the Etruscans and we touched an upturned road sign cut in half from 2BC. The pix can do the talking.

The Church with Florentine shields, as Volterra was captured after a bloody battle.

Shell fossils in the walkways dating back goodness knows how many years.

The Etruscan Gate, which was supposed to be destroyed by the Germans to halt the advancing Allies. The towns folk pleaded to save it. The mainly old, women and children were given 24 hours to fill it with stones and rocks … they did.

Check out the rain capes and ponchos … the odd heavy shower.

Our smaller group as some more had left for the airport after lunch. Again superb views all around.

Views! Spot the chap airing himself!

More views… we noticed the fields were a lot more parched here compared to the valley plains of Lucca to Florence.

Being the Feast Day, there was a Medieval precession … we just caught it.

Volterra is known for its alabaster … apparently it is soft compared to marble and can be carved using wood working tools. It just glowed when back lit. A few of the windows in the Church had been filled with the opaque marble, which glowed and still let in some light.

We were running late back to the hotel for supper and delayed further as the Carabinieri decided to pull our driver over. Thankfully, we all had the sense not to whip out cameras thus antagonising the policemen and the driver was super calm. After 10 minutes of checking the drivers papers … incident free in 30 years of driving professionally we were allowed on our way. Ironically, our guide had just explained about Italian driving licences and the points system.

Back at the hotel and our last 4 course meal. Cake for David, whose birthday was tomorrow.

119 – Sunday 16.08: Back into Chardonnay … Home

We were the last of the Clune Reunion to leave and it was very strange not constantly bumping into family as we moved around the hotel. It is an amazing and generous gift Michael has given us all. Creating wonderful memories.

We collected Chardonnay and checked out. The staff were most helpful and checked that the big supermarket was open and gave us directions.

The iperCoop was overflowing with people. It was like they had emptied their cupboards yesterday with the Feast Day and needed to replenish. J stayed in Chard and did some unpacking. K braved the masses and food and booze shopped. Mindful of the volume and rich food we have been consuming, K set up the slow cooker with soya and dried veg for a bolognese!

Sally Sat Nav set for Pisa, just over an hour away. Whilst we usually shun campsites unless we have company, we were so weary after the week of festivities that we decided to set up camp for the two nights … Maddy joins us 🙂 on Monday evening. we erected Maddy’s tent, did laundry and had a quick swim. We were NOT late to bed!

Days 114 – 117: Pistols at dawn if you don’t eat and be merry!

Posted on August 16, 2015 by Clunegapyears

114 – Tuesday 11.08: Pistoia … third time lucky

A ‘free time’ day. Having not successfully visited Pistoia town centre despite having stayed Saturday night there, we caught the train to see the main square. It was worth it on 3 counts:

Did some shopping including an Italy map book. We figured that since we were planing to spend some months in Italy, the Europe map book has insufficient detail. (We have also downloaded Italian language podcasts, as we really ought to get to know a few basics other than the few phrases J can remember from 100’s of years ago and K’s well used and successful phrase which buys stamps for postcards for England.)
Found the square which was very pretty
Had an amazing lunch in a slow food restaurant… K’s was very fresh tasting … the slow food meant we consumed an extra bottle of white!

K’s Tuscanny Soup! The word soup is used very loosely. Fresh salads with tuna and salsa verde. Yum.

Approaching our second bottle of white 🙂

Pistoia Basilica

At dinner tonight we celebrated Amelia’s 70th AND Tom presented his book on the Clune ancestry. He has put a huge amount of work into researching and writing up, within the context of the Irish history. He now has a hit list of family who had not passed him information BEFORE he went to print. Top of the list was James, followed by Amelia and then Mary Kate, who announced that she possessed the family bible with the family tree! Not sure if Tom can face revision number 212!

Amelia with her cake … delicious!

The Clune Siblings with the family history that Tom researched.

Two of the youngest members … second cousins

115 – Wednesday 12.08: Frenzied in Florence

An early start and the train to Florence. Our groups was gain split into two smaller groups, each with a guide. History and the main sights seen. HOWEVER, it was very hot and very busy. Tourists everywhere. Packed with ’em and then horse drawn carriages trying to get through … James nearly lost his hat to one horse, and I nearly lost James to the carriage wheels!

As we will be spending a lot more time in Italy, we will come back and do the INSIDE of some of the sights when it is quieter.

With the tour guide in Florence

Michelangelo’s David … well the copy

It was a matter of pride to celebrate the human form

Cathedral and Campanile

Basilica’s doors that Michelangelo dubbed the Gates of Paradise

Ponte vechio: A German General disobeyed orders as he refused to blow it up as the Allies approached. It has housed jewellery shops since c.15 as the butchers’ smells offended the Medici’s who crossed between Palaces in the tunnel way across the top.

So after another amazing lunch … K and J only went for one course for this meal … chicken cacciatore 🙂 … we then caught the train back to Montecatini. We checked on Chardonnay, patted her bonnet and she introduced us the tourist busses that she has befriended!

116 – Thursday 13.08: Up to Alto and in High Alt with Football

Quite a number of the Clunes had already caught the funicular train up to Montecatini Alto and said the views worth it. We walked through the park, past the thermal baths complex (apparently people take the waters at 8.00 and have a movement at 10.00!) to the train station. It has operated since 1898 and as one goes up, one comes down on the same track with a passing place half way up. It was a surprisingly long way.

At the top we planned to have a coffee, a walk and then lunch. The coffee turned into a beer and a wine. The walk was a very slow stroll to see one of the churches and the castle walls … Oh and a memorial to Sainta Barbara which included bombs and barbed wire … she is the saint of war amongst other things!

The planned lunch did not happen in Montecatini Alto …. we selected a restaurant. J said in his best Italian ‘Buon Girno’ and was ignored by the waiter, who then flung two menus at J without a word …. so we left! He will presumably never know why he did not get our custom … just wish we had taken a note of the restaurant name … TripAdvisor is such a powerful weapon … wonder if Sainta Barbara would have been on our side?

As we had a bit of time before the first train down the hill, we wandered into one of those magic finds that occur only when you are not looking for them. We stumbled into a small locals’ bar: elderly men with a glass of wine or an ice-cream watching the TV. We moved through to one of the back rooms and discovered a draft set. We had both completely forgotten a) how to set up the board, but the barman helped us and b) the rules, but we cobbled through. Our glass of wine and coffee has half the price of the main square. A gem.

As we wandered back into the hotel, we were informed that the Clune blood team would be playing the Non-Bloods this afternoon. The football match had been declared at a previous evening’s dinner and the Captains had picked their teams, but given the extreme heat, we had thought it would not come to anything. How foolish and naive! Michael had not only booked a 5-aside pitch but ordered taxis to take us there and back. Sharon, the ref, had picked up yellow and red cards anticipating that she would need them – a lot. I don’t know how to say this, but K, the non-footballer, had been picked for the Non-Bloods as the only sub and J, the fittie, had not been picked for the Bloods! K had told Captain Mark that the ONLY time she had played football was last summer, when she kicked the ball at full force into the face of Jimmy aged 4. Even chocolate did not stem the tears. Mark seemed to think that hurting the opposition was a good thing?! It was also a VERY small gene pool for Mark to pick from. J determined to have a go, came prepared in his kit and, just as well, as there was a HUGE amount of subbing going on in the Blood team! Result? Non-bloods slaughter of Bloods with a 2-0 win, despite their enormous team of about 15 subs! Oh Yes!!!

The Clune Blood Team: Youth and numbers on their side!

The Non-Bloods: ranked as underdogs, but the captain Mark scored twice!

A fake dive by Michael, but he did a real one later!

Yes, I did actually get my boot to the ball! As well as my left boob … thank you David!

Husband and wife: Opposing!

117 – Friday 14.08: Leisurely and then cooking course

Free time, which meant a welcome lie in! Into town for a coffee and ice cream so huge, that K could not finish it – unheard of! There are so many Clunes in Montecatini, that Sharon and John passed us on a mission to find a football deflater and we discovered the Mary Kate, Boyler and baby Daniel had been inside whereas we had been outside! Indeed, as we left the hotel on Sunday, the head receptionist said that he would miss us all … the majority of the other guests were half dead neck up!

J declined the cookery lesson … can’t cook / won’t cook. We drove out to a villa, where guests can stay, learn to cook Tuscany style, ride horses etc. The villa was C17, but the staff were very modern. Sandra, matriarch, was a full on personality. Her son, was eye candy and the other teacher Texan Scarlett a poppet. We learnt knife skills, including how to sharpen, chopping skills and all cried with the onions! Laura did a bit more than cry and attempted to chop off a finger! We then made pasta and watched demonstrations on an orange (9 jested oranges!) sponge and Creme Anglaise.

What was really interesting was how long the chopped veggies were cooked … all their juices had to cook and reduce with the voluminous quantity of olive oil. Tip: Heat the veggies in the pan with the oil or they caramelise. But the sauce was unctuous …. no need for lip balm. The pudding was light and soaked up the cream. Over- stuffed again!

Head Chef Sandra with all our choppings and a vat of olive oil

Holly, aged 4, making pasta

The cooking group with the trainers

Days 112-113: Clune Family Reunion Commences

Posted on August 11, 2015 by Clunegapyears

112-Sunday: Heat to Storms and Montecatini Terme to Lucca

We basically expired from the heat last night … could hardly move. Had to set the alarm to go off at 5.30 to pack so we could do it at the coolest time of day. We then went back to sleep for a bit. Packing to join the vast majority of James’ family – 28 adults and 3 babies – in Montecatini Terme, located between Lucca and Florence.

The intention of walking the 20 mins from the motorhome parking to the centre of Pistoia was put paid to by the heat for a second time. We moved slowly to drain our grey and fresh water tanks and emptied the toilet: we are laying Chardonnay up for a whole week. 40 minute drive to Montecatini Terme …. Sally the Sat Nav had received a map update in April and we have been surprised at how out of date she sometimes is … she was VERY wrong as we tried to find the hotel and kept trying to take us the wrong way down one way streets.

Off loaded our bags. i am sure no-one else in this smart hotel has ever arrived in an 8m motorhome with luggage consisting of a large blue Ikea and other assorted shopping bags!

Finding the secure parking space was also interesting with the one way system and we had a street name but no number … it was quite a long street. Once we found it, we were parked with the tourist busses. A barrier with a code to get in and we are in bay no. 21. A German bus driver was washing his coach, so in my best German I asked if he would clean Chardonnay. Obviously, my German was not quite polite enough as he refused and made it quite clear that we should not park there if we had not booked!

Lunch back at the hotel, followed by unpacking and a swim on the rooftop pool. It was blowing such a gale, that it almost felt cool!

A Prosecco reception and supper …. strike that … a sumptuous 4 course meal … parma ham and melon, pasta course, veal with black olive mash (delicious) and finished with ice cream and fresh fruit salad! We did not need breakfast this morning!

113-Monday: Lucca, Montecarlo olive farm & vineyard and Villa Torrigiani

We awoke to a thunder and lightening downpour – temperatures down to around 24C. Blissful, but it actually felt quite chilly!!! We packed our waterproofs and they were much used during the day.

Coach to Lucca; regular grid of streets that were established by the Romans and completely surrounded by high ramparts. Churches were a sign of wealth and due to the silk industry here and the Pilgrim route, Lucca had dozens of them. 15 within the old town are still practicing churches.

San Michelle church

San Michelle church – we sheltered from the downpour

Pucchini was born here. His home is the red brick building behind. He chain smoked and always shown with a cigarette. Apparently his spurious lifestyle was an embarrassment to the Luccase!

Puccini was born here. His home is the red brick building behind. He chain smoked and always shown with a cigarette. Apparently his spurious lifestyle was an embarrassment to the Luccase!

Architecture with hints of Roman

Three eras of building … three window styles

Duomo: frontage off centre to accommodate the pre-existing Campille

San Martino Cathedral: frontage cramped to accommodate the pre-existing Campille

Lunch was at a fattore … apt as we will all be very fat … antipasta, pasta, meat and chips and then biscuits dunked in sweet wine for pud … accompanied by 4 types of wine, The wine and the olive oil produced here. A quick tour of the vines and an explanation about cold pressing the olives.

Typical olive press. The olives are ground up pastes onto the ‘plates’ and then pressed. Nowadays the olives go to the collective large press in the town.

Four course lunch with four wines 🙂 And we did leave unfinished bottles on the table!

We then drove to Villa Torrigiani – the building dates back to the 1500s and is intact. The original frescos on the ceilings were cleaned in 1920, but look freshly painted.

Statues … on the front of the Villa!

The remaining flowers garden as the rest were replaced by and English style parkland

Inside the chapel

After such a full on day, most took a nanny nap before supper.

Days 104 – 111: Granddad James with Jade and Sarah

Posted on August 8, 2015 by Clunegapyears

104 – Saturday: See you soon Munchkin and Hello Jade

We set alarms for 6.00 a.m. – a very uncommon occurrence in Chardonnay. Packed up once we finally got M up and were at the campsite barrier at 7.01 …. it opened at 7.00. We made such good time heading to Marseille airport that will pulled over and two members of the group breakfasted on croissant and pan au chocolat. We all then napped … my goodness … a second alarm clock in the same day!

K saw Maddy off at Departures. Apparently being Squeezey Jet, passengers were all contained in an over stuffy tent. Maddy getting over a cold and not feeling brilliant, felt much worse and bolted for the door. The security guard asked what she was doing and M said she felt she might faint … she then promptly did so into his arms. Consequence: she managed to delay the flight a few mins, but the cabin crew did give her an aisle seat 🙂

K and J then drove to Biot, by Antibes to an over crowded and expensive campsite. We need somewhere safe and local to Sarah and Jade to leave Chardonnay whilst we meet J’s new grand-daughter. Showered and threw a few bits in a bag and caught the train into Nice.

K is not into babies, but Jade is the most chilled poppet. Most babies seem to have an agonising screetch designed to demand attention. Jade simply whimpers a little, then gurgles and smiles.

105 – Sunday: Nice wander and Gaellic Football

K and J exercised … after two days absence: K sweaty puddle but J managed a good 4 miles at a good pace. Amazing to run around the head and along Le Promenade des Anglais. And the hard core Nicois were out sun bathing by 9.30!

A second shower in two days and K’s fake tattoo has very nearly disappeared 🙂

We wandered into the town centre. K and J were last here 18 months ago and the Place Macena was not quite complete. It is now a real gem in the city centre – a long stretch of green, fountains and children’s climbing frames with a nautical theme. Lunch and a wander back through the old town.

106-109 – Monday – Thursday: Nice and Jade

It has been so lovely to spend time with Jade … sorry Sarah – you take second fiddle now! She is such a poppet … K professes NOT to be a baby person, BUT ….

What’s not to love?

Granddad was not prepared to lend a hand when we were entrusted with Jade ... machine gun fire followed by a stinky nappy. Funny that! K's first nappy in 14+ years..... it just about stayed on when jake held up!

Granddad was NOT prepared to lend a hand when we were entrusted with Jade … machine gun fire followed by a stinky wall paper paste nappy. Funny that! K’s first nappy in 14+ years….. it just about stayed on when I held Jade up! Could have been worse … Sarah had Jade producing sausages in the bath two nights running!

Just how beautiful!

In between cooing, we managed a few walks into the old town, a light lunch at favourite restaurant, a bus ride up to a small town in the hills …. called Tourratte! Poo, bum, arse … everything was shut until 2.00 and J had a Dr appointment in the PM, so managed a slow and hot walk and a coffee before catching the bus back.

We walked to the top of the hill to discover the castle was hut until 2.00.

We walked to the top of the hill to discover the castle was shut until 2.00.

But views of the surrounding hills were worth it.

Fav dessert – Tiramasu!

Of the 6 nights we invaded Sarah’s space for 4 nights. Two nights were spent on the campsite … quite an experience for the uninitiated in high tourist area camping….

Cramped and tight pitches and road ways: needing a ‘spotter’ to move Chardonnay around due tight turns and overhanging trees
Most pitches given over to ‘statics’ … not camping at all! Your could argue that – nor do we!
Regulation ridden:
- one way systems with tight turns
- we could not drive Sarah’s car onto the campsite … anywhere for 3 mins to spot for each other to vacate our pitch! Not their problem!
- the campsite pool cost EUR 2 despite the steep nightly fee of EUR 33 … why is it NOT included?
- And the pool shut at 7 p.m., despite temperatures of 30 deg plus

It also boasted of a pizzeria, shop, entertainment etc … Great for families, but SUCH A DIFFERENCE to our lovely wild camps of Scandinavia.

We have to be balanced … the plusses for the site (admittedly few!):

Secure and safe parking for Chardonnay when we left her for a total of 4 nights
Close to the beach for a FREE swim
Close to the train EUR 9 or bus EUR3 for the both of us.
Dredging the positives … electric was included

J has been to Nice number of times / K’s 4th visit. It feels like a second home. We both ran varying distances and speeds along the Bay of the Angels and swam in the Med. Wandered the old town and ate far too well. A wonderful place to be (if a bit hot this time). We gave up on trying to be be too active due the temperatures of 30+. And actually after all our running around, it was really lovely to just be …. in Nice … and with Jade and Sarah.

110 – Friday: Nice Adieu and into Italy

Leaving Sarah and Jade with threats to return end January, we checked out of the cess pit of humanity (campsite) and drove along the coast to Italy. We still had Sally the Sat Nav set to non-toll roads, so she crawled us through Monaco (Country no. 11 this trip) and the coastal road of Italy, which is town touching town. Given the warm temperatures, we were surprised to see so many greenhouses built into the terraced hillsides … we read later that this area is a main supplier of cut flowers.

Italian driving is renowned and not in a good way … but peak season and add in tourists and pedestrians and you have mayhem. After about an hour of numerous near misses (well, that it is what it felt like) and not many miles covered, we re-programmed Sally to include motorways.

Due to traffic issues …. motorways slowing due to weight of traffic, we headed up the hills to a Parking in Cassella, but there were no other motorhomes there so we ploughed on along hilly and bendy roads to Torrigino (!) and a busier Parking … one motorhome had a flower arrangement on their table!

111 – Saturday: Torrigiana and kindness and Into Tuscany and major heat!

We headed for a wander into the town. Kindness Number 1: A chap called after us and J was able to put his sentence ‘no parla Italiano’ into good use … but they chap managed to explain that if we headed up a different street … we would see stone typical of the area. We duely climbed up the hill (getting hot by now) and made it to the castle on the hill … did i mention, it was on a hill and hot? The castle was shut!

The castle on a hill

Another one shut!

Back down to the town, we needed a few green beans for the slow cooker soya casserole … Kindness No. 2: the green grocer saw how few I had in a bag and basically told me to flit … he ws not going to put a few cents through the till!

We meandered down the hills, through hair pin bends and small towns to the coastal motorway and then into a Parking in Pistoia. Apparently they made pistols here. the clue is in the name. It still has metal works, but the main industry is train engines and carriages manufacture … we saw some on the drive in. Apparently also, it has a lovely town square which we had had the intention of walking to …. high humidity and 38C put paid to that. So this afternoon we did …. nothing. Trying not to move and to keep hydrated.

Amazing how easily things can be mis-understood! Text conversation with Maddy! I was complaining about the heat!

Amelia … a very Happy Birthday … so looking forward to seeing everyone tomorrow X

Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels