256-262 : All the S’s … Seccagrande, Sciacca, Selinunte and Sitting Still

256 – Friday 1st January 2016:  Start of the New Year

How about this for a New Year’s thought … this will be my first full calendar year with no work or meetings and it is James’ second such.  And we have been travelling in Europe for 256 days now … just wonderful.

We had a leisurely start, given how much booze and food we had consumed last night, we felt remarkably well!  We said good bye to Frances and Edward, having roped in a passing young lad to take a pix of us all, who then shook us each by the hand and wished us Buon Anno.  We will definitely meet up with F & E again at some point.

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Frances and Edward – our booze partners of the previous two evenings!

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Chardonnay and Frances & Edward’s van in the Porto Empedocles free parking.

We did not plan to travel far and nor did we.  Parked in Siculiana and had a quick walk, but decided it was a bit rough looking so we did not even stop for a coffee!  There is a castle there, but since we had no intention of going round, even had it been open …..  We also decided against stopping at Eraclea Minoa.  Apparently it is in a lovely setting, but again it would not have been open and the Valley of the Temples yesterday had given us enough ruin viewing for a few days.

Dan had told us about a wild camp spot in a car park right on the beach at Seccagrande … 4 Italian vans who were just there during daylight and over night it was us and a German.  We basked in the afternoon sun and read … very peaceful with lovely views along the coast.

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257 – Saturday 2nd January 2016:  Sciacca and Pronunciation!

K ran along the beach road and we half breakfasted outside watching two scuba divers.  K made a bacon, vegetable and puy lentil soup for lunch … I love the pressure cooker.  And then we did a clean and hoover.  We passed over EUR5 to the nearby campsite to use the services and drove to Sciacca.  I got the pronunciation all wrong until James helped, with … it rhymes with SHAG HER!  This I can remember!  So the phonetic spelling is Shaka.

We have parked up at the harbour here.  Frances and Edward said there were 11 vans when they were here a few days ago … we are one of 14 and all Italian.  It is so large a parking, that we have been able to park facing some boats and not wedged in by other vans.  

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Again a lovely view.

We wandered around the town with no fixed plan and found lots of steep alleys (of course), churches, a market packing up, the town wall with several gates and lots of Palazzos.  It has an Arab influence which is evident in the architecture.  

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Stairs up ….

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 … up and up!

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Another quirky Christmas Tree … lot of fun in emptying the bottles!

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One of the old town gates with amazingly huge and old wooden doors.

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Yes really??? Cars are coming through this gap!  We still suffer palpitations from us wedging Chardonnay in too tight corners.

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We’d missed a market.  The rubbish they left was stupendous and horrendous …no effort to clear up after themselves …

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… but it looks like Bono of U2 is moonlighting as a street cleaner.

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The Arab influence is strong in this town.

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Part of the town wall.  What you can’t see is the modern blocks of flats built on top of the wall.

We so like the town and our parking (although we have yet to experience how quiet it is at night … I have read about noise from gnats [gormlous noisy adolescent turds] on mopeds on forums), there is a supermarket within 3 mins walk, so we plan to stay here tomorrow too.

 

258 – Sunday 3rd January 2016:  Sciacca Again

K ran and pilates’d in front of the van until she noticed her audience of local fishermen!  We wandered up to the old town for another walk and an ice-cream.  We both did lots of admin jobs and J started on the dreaded tax return!  Why is is you never quite have all the information you need on the first go.

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Have you ever seen thorns this size?

 

259 – Monday 4th January 2016: And Again!

J attempted a run only to realise his calf had done no healing … it is going to be a stay still day with ice and heat treatments.  Tax return for J continued.  Rain heavy on and off.  An admin jobs day.   K did a little walk and J joined her for a short walk for some air and a coffee.

 

260 – Tuesday 5th January 2016:  And off again … Selinunte

We made use of the supermarket and stocked up for the next few days with fruit and veg.  We failed to buy an electric heater for when we are on sites, as our on board heating always trips the site electric.  We did buy a basic set of weighing scales as K has been eating like a horse since the run up to Christmas and needs to scare herself with seeing the kilos pile on … so far the theory is, however, not working!  

Having free camped for 3 days at Sciacca, our black and grey water were pretty full.  Laundry bag full.  K’s hair needed a wash.  Motorhome service areas are pretty thin on the ground so we headed for a campsite near Selinunte.  We booked in for one night, but the washing machine took such a long time to complete a cycle it was night fall before both loads were done.  It rained in the night too, so we had to retrieve all the wet washing and bring it in :(.

BBQ for supper though 🙂

 

261 – Wednesday 6th January 2016:  Sitting still in Selinunte

Awning out and the two loads of wet laundry dangling under it …. too much to dry off the bike rack and/or in the van, so we were set put for another day.

Rain on and off so we rested J’s leg, did more admin and planning.  Including booking K’s flight back to the UK to see her Munchkin in February half Term :).  We walked to the town in the afternoon for a coffee.  Pretty chilly so the BBQ chicken became chicken cacciatore!

 

262 – Thursday 7th January 2016:  Selinunte Ruins and Tre Fontane

Packed up and put away nearly all the now dry laundry.  Drove the very short distance to the ruins at Selinunte.  It is a large site with a lot of walking, so K explored alone whilst J rested his calf.  OK, so the Greek Temples in Paestum were the best.  The Valley of Temples was also fairly impressive, but a bit reconstructed and touristy.  But I really liked Selinunte.  It is barely restored, just a couple of semi restored temples. Most of the stones are still on the ground where they have fallen when the city was attacked by Carthage on 409BC or as a result of earth quakes.  This city was not pulled apart, nor stone recycled, for subsequent Roman rulers.  It was a city and a vast city.  As I walked around I could really get the sense of the scale and the importance of it, and in a lovely coastal setting.  As well as the temples, there are the huge fortifications, admin and residential areas.

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Temple E 490-480BC: pure Doric style with 68 columns

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Temple C 580-550BC:  the oldest and largest in this section

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View across to the Acropolis 

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View back to Temple E.  Odd stones stick up and a lot of the area is still to be excavated.

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A couple of main roads with arterial roads off

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Part of the fortification area at the North Gate

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An artist’s impression of what the fortifications would have looked like … three floors for the army to shoot out of. 

The whole of the acropolis was built on a massive reinforced stone plinth

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We lunched on pea and mint soup in the car park and then drove the short distance to Tre Fontane.  A small seaside town with a long sandy beach; our Swedish neighbours had told us about the free overnight parking here.  The town is pretty deserted, but we found two open cafes.  We are not going to enjoy the beach other than the view (and the pinky grey sunset, as I type) as it is pretty blowy with the odd shower.  We are parked facing the sea and into the wind. I wonder if we will be rocked much in the night?

 

 

 

 

 

251 – 255: Modica, Agrigento and New Year

251 – Sunday 27th December 2015:  Modica Steps and Chocolate

Whilst the campsite and the people are lovely, K was starting to feel the effects of cabin fever …. I suppose it comes for being on the move so much and for so long.  When the Aged P’s visited us in Sicily, they commented that we seem so settled in our way of life, they did not see how we could return to a ‘normal’ life.  Since they spend about 6 months each year travelling and are the ONLY people I know of to have visited every State in the USA (except Hawaii), I think I know where I get it from!

Modica is one of the main towns rebuilt after the 1693 earthquake in the Sicilian Baroque style.  It is less well preserved and restored than Noto or Ragusa, but still attractive.  It is also know for its chocolate … of course we had to try and buy.  Shan’t buy again though, as it is tastes pretty rough … dark with the sugar crunchy where it does not dissolve …. CDM (Cadbury Dairy Milk) is MUCH better!

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More Sicilian Baroque

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And of course, lots more balconies … 

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Modica is built in the valleys and hills of two converging rivers.

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Lots of steep steps to get to the top of the old town 

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More steps up to the Church …

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… I don’t know if you can tell, but it is the only church I’ve been in with a seriously sloping floor

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Lots of steep steps up to this Church too!

252 – Monday 28th December 2015:  Abortive Blood Test (and Beach!)

We cycled to Santa Croche to try to get J a routine blood test, which we had been told could be done here when we popped in before Christmas …. no, we would have to go to the hospital in Ragusa … ho hum.  We’ll probably leave it till April when we are back home.

Having the rest of the day on our hands, we actually made it onto the beach to sit and read for an hour.  K even got into her cosie, but did not attempt a sea entry!

BBQ for supper as we don’t know when we will be able to BBQ again, as we can’t when wild camping.

253 – Tuesday 29th December 2015:  Litaca

We said au revoir to our new friends on the campsite, but plan to drop by again towards the end of January.  We drove along the coast heading West – we will ‘do’ the SW side of Sicily which we have not yet seen.  We paused to look at the outside of one of that castles perched on the coastal rocks when we had lunch and then drove into Litaca.  We parked up next to the port and walked into the town for a coffee.  Can tell this is off the beaten tourist track … coffees only 80 cents each!  No, I must be wrong, James spotted a tourist train with passengers … it is on the tourist trail after all.

Indifferent night’s sleep as ALL the dogs in the town set off caterwauling (or should that be dogawauling?) most of the night!

254 – Wednesday 30th December 2015:  Agrigento and Porto Empedocle

Only a short drive to check out the coordinates for our night’s free parking by a spit and a beach.  James stepped out of Chardonnay onto a used condom and there was constant flow of single men in cars arriving, turing around and leaving …. can’t think what sort of business goes on here!  So we had a coffee and spotted another port parking about half a kilometre on.  This was perfect and J practiced his Italian to establish there is a bus up Agriegento town … we will keep the Valley of the Temples for tomorrow when we are less tired.

Bus on time and some really helpful locals.  First the chaps who told us where to get the bus.  Secondly, a lady who told us to follow her as she was catching the same bus.  Thirdly, the chap in the bus info office, who gave me timetables and a street map.  Fourthly, a customer (who spoke reasonable English), not only told us how to get to the Duomo, but came out and walked a bit with us so we did not mistake the way.

Agrigento is atop a seriously steep hill and I imagine few tourists make it here, but just visit the Greek temples.  It is literally crumbling away.  An art installation on the steps of the Duomo of multiple plaster feet was to raise awareness that people do care that the cathedral and other buildings are crumbling.  We even saw a For Sale board which advertised that the interior was stable!

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The Duomo feet … we could not walk amongst them despite the idea that you should post a selfie of you with your favourite foot to promote awareness of the need for restoration / repair

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Seriously crumbling town

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And here’s one I made earlier … a Christmas tree out of empty drinks bottles and cling film.

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A couple of incongruous modern art installations – juxtaposed with the crumbling old structures.

Whilst we waited for the infrequent bus, we patronised three different bars …. as each brings out nibbles, we did not fancy supper later on.  One bar gave us a local soft bread stuffed with olives, ham and cheese … yummy.  At another we watched a man who bought scratch cards, trade in winning cards for more, pocket some cash and then had over more cash for more cards.  He must have been there for over half an hour – sad.

When we arrived back at our free parking, we had been joined by 3 Italian vans and a British one.  The Brits had parked leaving a gap between us and them, only to have the Italians infill all the gaps … the Italian herd mentality again as it is a large car park.  We knocked on the door to say hello … and Frances and Edward kindly invited us in for drinks later.  One bottle led to another ….

255 – Thursday 31st December 2015:  Agrigento Valley of the Temples and Seeing In New Year

We drove via a campsite to empty our full toilet and replenish our water supplies …. EUR8!  Not cheap when being environmental!  Then onto the car park right by the entrance to the Temples.  The usual guides offering their services and a taxi for the lazy or infirm to take you up to the far end of the archeological site.  We are neither so we walked.  A beautifully sunny and warm day.

The Valley of the Temples was founded in 581 BC and has undergone a large number of excavations.  A British army captain who came out for his health built a villa in the middle, having ‘persuaded’ other people to know down their houses that were built up against the temples.  But he was instrumental in a lot of the excavation and the raising of some of the columns.  The temples are not as complete as those at Paestum, but still very impressive.

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So much reconstruction, so trying to do my bit!

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We have FAI membership (It. National Trust) so the Gardens of Kolimbethra were free.  Restored agricultural area with citrus groves and some unusual species.

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Some really old olives trees with wonderfully gnarled trunks …

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… some 400-500 years old.

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Traditional music being played under the Nativity scene.  A sheepskin bagpipe.

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Ancient irrigation supported by … a steel girder!

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Included here as just soooo phallic!

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The ‘new’ town of Agrigento always visible through the fallen stones

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Trying to cover his modesty, but he is just tooooo big!

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In the Archeological Museum there was a section with pottery dating back to15-20 BC, making the Greek Temples seem very modern

Back to the free parking in Porto Empedocle and Frances and Edward joined us for supper.  We saw the New Year in well – several trips to the bottle bank!.  A group of youths kindly put on a firework display in our car park and Frances supplied some sparklers.  Most excellent.