893-895: Gales and Water in Zadar & Krka

893 – Sunday 12th November 2017:  Jobs Day

Another lovely and peaceful night at our free aire at Otocac (we recommend it to anyone travelling in this area, although they may be charging you at some point). Moved Jez a few metres to get water on board and to use the good old twin tub to do basic laundry – to hang in our ‘Chinese Laundryvan’. We both showered as we could refill with ‘uisce beatha’ (water of life) – and free lecky to boot. Oscar had a good play outside – but I lost his ‘sliothar’ (the Irish contingent will know this one) – a small ball for the game of hurling.  Then, after departing, we noticed his pink bear was missing!  He’s had this since a tiny puppy….. now, we’re both in the doghouse – but thankfully he’s very forgiving. We feel there might be a price for this – food!  

All squeaky clean – we drove to north of Zadar (peage £9 and a very long tunnel).  Our chosen overnight was an abandoned campsite – on an App as a ‘wild’.  Lots of picnicers and dog walkers – nice perambulate around the headland before retiring for pre-prandial drinkies… As (technically) wilding is illegal in Croatia, we feel slightly uneasy and will use more campsites – not too many open in the winter though. But – still completely secure.  

Hunkered down for the evening, zzzzzs time…..


894 – Monday 13th November 2017:  Zadar

Drove into Zadar intending to park in the city – all suitable car parks were full – mid morning on a Monday!  Luckily, we spotted one on street spot – and parallel parked – the pilot’s and spotter’s skills much admired by a passing pedestrian.  Stressed cafe for coffee – borderline cold and starting to spit rain….. The pick of the sights was St Donat’s church (yes – shaped like a donut) – simple and plain which we love.  The church hosts many summer musical performances – but never like the one on our visit!  The acoustics are excellent – so, I stood in the centre – and sang “It’s a Long Way to Tipperary” in my pseudo-baritone voice!  It was so well received by the audience (K and O) that I may be invited to sing “Over the Hills and Far Away”!!!  The Albert Hall does not beckon….perhaps the Battersea Dogs Home?  

K had read that there was a ‘sea organ’ nearby – and as we headed back to Jez, we walked along the seafront to let Oscar travel off-lead – we heard music from somewhere nearby – it was the waves breaking – and activating the sea organ!!!  I’ve never come across this (K had) – it’s absolutely amazing.  Lots of musical notes along a long paved water edge.

Our loveboat (Jez) sailed himself (and us) to an ACSI campsite – with free lecky and wifi…  It was quite cold and a gale blowing (lovely inside – a sort of ’night-in-gale’ evening) – with my own lovebird… Oh dear – feeling all mushy and squishy, now.   


Zadar: The Land Gate … with a Lion’s head.


Venetian’s had ruled … more Italianate windows … dig the strip light and modern blinds.


St Donat and Campanile sitting on top of the Roman Forum.


Taken down from the Ladies Gallery … us girls got to do the stairs.  Spot the odd recycled Roman column.


 Serenaded by my squire. 


895 – Tuesday 14th November 2017:  Korr! at Krka

Having raved about the Plitvice Jezera National Park, we said the Krka Park/Skradinski Buk could not be as good…   Different – but quite spectacular. 60 Croatian Kuna entrance fee total for 2 (£7) – how much would any equivalent Park cost in UK? – shedloads of £unas!  We could not count the numbers of waterfalls – just everywhere – and we saw it at it’s best – with all the recent rain.  An attendant gentleman demonstrated the 450-year-old milling device (speaking to K in fluent German [K – his, not mine, as my mother and Kerstin will testify!]).  

It get’s better.. our amazing ticket price included 2 Park’s parts! Off to Roski Slap (we are a right old pair of ’slappers’ now – couldn’t resist that one!).  We decided to let Madge (MapsMe) guide us – K driving – me dozing (K: he missed the narrow being resurfaced road through a village with overhanging bits!)… a rude awakening as we faced a very longish narrow bridge….. ‘punta piccolo, camper grande’, for sure!  I raced (?) to the punta and paced it widthwise – squeaky fit, methought.  A vehicle came the other way, K wound down the window and asked if it was OK for us … “why not?” was his reply.  So we threw caution to the gale.  I guided K across, millimetres at a time – towards the end, I had to remove a roadsign to shave Jez past!  Did we have to return on this route?  Colin (CoPilot) was consulted – he of the ‘avoid narrow roads’ type – no way, Jose – he said!  A better road out….  Lovely waterfall and lake walk – Oscarslapper found several sticks to gnaw and be chased for….

No rain today, thus far – yippee… 

Home to campsite – some rain and much less wind, luckily….blogging and chilling…

By the way Magshags – Oscar now wants a knitted coat – like wot you did for Poppy!   (K: so do I!)


Being ‘Winter’, we take our own vehicle down to the Lake … Being quiet, we stopped on the road to admire the view.


The limestone water deposits minerals which make up banks, supporting vegetation, called travertine.


Many mills used by locals all around the area, but when tributaries dried up, people had to come and use the mill here.  Grinding corn (polenta), flour and softening wool for clothes.



The lovely member of staff, sped up the grinding and explained that the mill was over 450 years old, still water driven and used right up till 1970!


We might moan / laugh about the weather, but it is giving us a show in these national parks.


Looking down to the alternating current hydroelectric facility … it was actually the first to be switched on (even though the USA built theirs first).  We drove past the extensive and now derelict factory at the top of this hill.












The bar-steward road – this is the final section as a longer part was around the corner … this width was just OK the beds weren’t!


We took a walk along the lake side.  When does a river become a lake?


Still some strong Autumn colours here.


We’d walked through some olive groves, but no pepper plants in sight … our road spoil is now residing in the fridge to be cooked with hake tomorrow!  J checking it is fresh-ish!


More travertine falls.



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