About Clunegapyears

Travelling around Europe with James in our motorhome. And now solo, with friends

Days 74-75: Trondheim and Waterfalls

Posted on July 5, 2015 by Clunegapyears

74: Wednesday and the 1st of the month

Last night we arrived about 7.45 pm at the free motorhome parking near the Trondheim city centre. We arrived AFTER everyone else though and all the free parkings were taken, so we had to pay until 8.00 pm last night and for an hour this morning. There were quite a few of us up and ready to rush into a vacated free spot … James was spotting and dressed. K was at the wheel in her nightie …. You have all seen the starting rows for the Grand Prix? We were initially on the second row – but surreptitiously nipped into the front row… A free space became available – the chequered flag was raised – and K shot away for the first corner – sorry, the free space! Now shooting away at speed in our 28 foot 4 ton van actually means doing zero to 5 mph in the same day! But, she warded off all comers – Lewis Hamilton take notice please…

It looks as if there is no time limit, so we will probably stay here tonight.

We both ran on beautiful track along the river Nid … yes even K, although hers was more of a shuffle / plod. And the new trainers got wet as it started to rain 😦 and has hardly stopped since 😦 :(. And we hear bristol is experiencing 24C!

Bought a combined ticket for the cathedral and Bishops’ Palace … Check mate my very own Bishop! Some folk we met said Trondheim was not very interesting – but we loved it: the history about St Olav, the Norwegian Patron Saint. We sat for an organ recital in the Cathedral which included some Vaughan Williams as well as Bach. In the Bishops Palace we saw the Crown Jewels. As Norway only had its very own Royal family from 1905, most of the royal regalia is relatively new and sadly, made in Sweden.

An old bridge to the … old town … with waterside warehouses.

Trondheim invented the worlds first bicycle lift! A very steep hill – metal channel at the kerb side – you placed your foot on a disc – and the lift took you (and bike) slowly up the hill – K interviewed some of the eager participants and see results below! if it had not been raining we would have cycled Trondheim, such a shame … would have loved a go.

Up the hill to the fortress. Health and Safety has goon complete mad in the UK and here’s the proof. The top of the walls of the fort do not have barricades to stop people falling off, just a polite sign reminding people to be careful. Thus they have not destroyed the fort.
And finally on the walk back to Chardonnay we passed through the old town and later the wooden ‘royal palace’ right in the centre of the town. As Kings and Queens have to have the benediction (no longer a proper coronation, but similar) in Trondheim Cathedral, they stay here when in town.

75 – Thursday: Longest in N Europe Waterfall Drop

After exercise and watching all the waiting vans skidaddle into vacant plots, as we had done the morning before, we set south. We had read that the coastal road around Alesund was really expensive in tolls and a mega tourist rip off and the scenery no better than else where, so we set forth cross country and saw … some amazing scenery! And even better, very few motorhomes and traffic generally. Along rivers, up and down through passes.

And finally to Mardalen waterfall. A bit of a detour as it is a road in and then the same road out …. but really worth it. It is the longest drop waterfall in N Europe. Parked and walked up to the waterfall.

So many lovely wild flowers everywhere. In Finland the wild lupins were blue, and blue further north in Norway. Now there are profusions of purple and pink. And all sorts of other flowers; I recognise only the aquilegia and foxgloves …. so lovely. The rolling fields in the valleys meet the steep and dark mountains. Every scrap of land is being harvested for hay. Even in large gardens and sometimes hung on wooden rows to dry. Sanguine red cattle

Short drive to just north of Andalsness. Very late now … nearly 9.00 pm. Note to selves, must park up by 8.00p.m. latest – we are too tired and yet to eat! The parking was right on the fjord and although busy, loads of space and peaceful. Again wonderful reflections in the still water.

Days 71 – 73: Artic Circle Revisitied

Posted on June 30, 2015 by Clunegapyears

71 – Sunday: Narvik and WW2 Museum

We arrived at the Narvik motorhome parking just as most were leaving. Exercised – we seem to regularly get up and drive to somewhere we can exercise off the E6 main road. Breakfasted and visited the WW2 museum. It covered the German attack, British and Allies counter attack, withdraw of Allies troops as needed on other fronts, 5 years of German occupation, resistance work and a harrowing section on the mass slaughter and abuse of political prisoners who were deemed lower than captured soldiers. James was tour guide reading from the comprehensive English language booklet. An old fashioned, but very interesting museum. In a couple of years they will rehouse and probably make all interactive … we liked it’s quirkiness and low price! There was a cable car to the top of the mountain, but it seemed pretty pointless as we could not even see the top due to the cloud!

Drove on through snow capped dark rock mountains and parked up with a couple of German motorhomes over looking the most amazing lake – the mists even lifted in the morning so we could see it!

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72 – Monday: Tyres and Arctic Circle

Night time sojourn – off-main road car park – with a couple of vans and a tent from Poland – which had people inside – who went fishing….. We had discovered a slow puncture in a rear wheel which J tried to blow air into and fainted! Back to the truth – J cannot muster 4.5 Bar or 65 psi – only after a really hot curry! Drove to Fauske and what did K see? A Michelin sign over a tyre fitters. A quick U Turn and 2.5 hours later we had a the slow puncture repaired and a can of ‘stuff’ to that seals such slow punctures. Fully inflated we set forth.

We climbed and climbed …. the mountains got rockier and the adjacent river was essentially waterfall after rapids along its length. At the top it opened up and we are at the Arctic Circle – for the second time, but this time on the way down and heading towards warmer weather! We stopped for a couple of pix … appropriately there was a lot os snow around. Hard to see but we are actually in front of the Arctic Circle sign! And, of course, this Arctic Circle centre would not be complete without a miniature Nordkapp globe! We have spent 14 days in the Arctic Circle. On the way down, the countryside started to open out and this river was calmer and got gradually wider.

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We stopped in Mo i Rana just to replace K’s running shoes at a massive (shop called XXL) sports shop: a bit like IKEA … you had to follow the grey path through all the fishing, cycling, gun etc sections before reaching the tills.

We stayed in a free car park overnight just off the E6 main road – small car park – with ultimately 9 motorhomes and one motorbike ! Cosy….

73 -Tuesday: Trondheim

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Up at dawn again (9:00 am!) and journeyed south to Grane village where 23 local men were shot by German troops for being members of the Resistance in 1942. K norked – lighting up the whole of Norway in her new psychedelic running shoes – see photo below but watch with sunglasses only ! J ran – in his not so new and understated blue shoes, feeling shoe envy… Then brekkie and SatNav set for Trondheim via a wc emptying and water loading facility – which ultimately proved as difficult to find as Alex Ferguson’s sense of humour when asked why teams visiting Old Trafford were never awarded penalties ! But, we prevailed…

The approach to Trondheim is impressive and looked to indicate a city of more than it’s 180,000 people. Then, we encountered the toll roads! I must find someone to complain to – perhaps my successor as MD of a major UK road toll charging company! Sally SatNav brought us to the only free motorhome overnight car park – full to the gunnels – we have parked in the adjacent pay park – all of £2.10 – and see what tomorrow brings… It’s definitely getting warmer as we travel south – we have dispensed with the extra wooly blanket over the duvet at night – what night – oh for some stars ! I hear that UK is having a heat wave… 25 Centigrade?

Days 69-70: Mishap Morning!

Posted on June 28, 2015 by Clunegapyears

69: Friday: Driving Day

Little to report. Again having planned a walk p.m., it clouded over and we felt lazy. Decided against going to the Verstralen islands close by, as we really need warmer and sunnier weather to push us out the door to do a walk. So will start to head south. The guide book formed us that Nordkapp to Oslo is the same distance as Oslo to Rome so conscious also of time … we want to hook up with K’s sister and family and Aged P’s near Bordeaux towards the end of July.

Parked up with 3 other motorhomes and a very small hired Ford Escort van – this couple had a clever pull out kitchen, but the bed area was the whole of the rear with no blinds! And it is light here 24/7!!. Had a stroll on the harbour wall to the mini lighthouse.

You can just make out the cluster of motorhomes in the centre

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70: Mishap Morning

Nice meal and a good nights sleep…. It needed to be for the unanticipated events of the morning! As per our usual routine, we both prepared to run and walk – J to run 4 miles and K to walk/run for 50 minutes. K set off a few minutes before J and the routine was set – each having a key for the van. K returned – no sign of J – he should have returned after about 35 minutes! K became increasingly concerned – J in hospital – no phone? Lying unconscious on the roadside? K decided to drive the van along the route to check for J – last seen giving a cheery wave from the top of a distant hill earlier during the walk/run. After only a kilometre or so, J appeared running towards the van – he had got lost – on a straight road in good weather conditions? Mishap Number 1. Does he need a guide dog? Much relief though for both.

They set off to find a parking area to have breakfast. A T-junction arrived and a right turn was the appropriate decision for the driver K. As she turned, she remembered she had left her running shoes at the over night pitch – Mishap Number 2. Unfortunately, on slamming into reverse, the driver side rear wheel slipped into a ditch which left the passenger side front wheel in fresh air – the van could not move as it is front wheel drive. Mishap Number 3. All brakes were swiftly locked – a number of motorists stopped to check if they could help and one lady phoned her husband to bring his tractor to tow us out. A charming chap – builder – was keeping us company – J staying in the passenger seat to provide some weight (?) as a counterbalance. After some time – and more considerate enquiries from passing folk, tractor arrived – and extricated our home – no damage, but one soft tyre… Breakfast was heartily enjoyed a bit later….. When we had both recovered – sail was set towards Narvik….. No further mishaps – don’t they come in threes?

Photos… etched in our mind! We had not become blasé, but a missing James and a motorhome in the ditch has been a chastening reminder how fragile we, and our existence are. A lesson learned and we got off VERY lightly.

Camped overnight just south of Narvik at a picnic area off the road.

Tyre gripping … air!

Would that be a a bit of a lean?

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Day 68: Maddy’s Ball and A

Posted on June 28, 2015 by Clunegapyears

68 – Thursday 25th: Grr – Weather

Maddy sent me some pix of her all dolled up from her Leaver’s Ball last night …. proud of my beautiful daughter – don’t she scrub up well!

Our overnight Football pitch … completely alone 🙂

The rain cleared for a while so we could exercise, but it was still damp and chilly in the air, so our planned walk did not materialise. We drove through Lecknes, doing some basic shopping and getting rid of recycling. And onto A. yes, the town at the end of the island, really is called A. As we came over the top a mountain, the clouds parted enough for the sun to poke through to reveal the most amazing views at Reine. We, and as many motorhomes as would fit in the parking all stopped to take pix. K even got tripod and changed camera lens, so sorry quite a few of similar subjects

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At A we parked up with our fellow at the museum car park … by night fall it was cheek to cheek / bumper to bumper motorhomes, but thankfully quiet from about 11.00 till 8.00. More stockfish hanging to air but heads this time. Surprising how large and ugly they are. Small fishing village pretty, but little here unless you fancy visiting the museum all about fishing, or actually going fishing. it is however, the Maelstrom Sea that when it get going, if wind and tide are in the same direction, the waves crashing on rocks can be hear d5km away. Stayed peaceful for us.

Rows of suspended cod heads … still not sure what they are used for.

Close enough, thank you!

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Just part of one row of overnight motorhomers …

Days 65-68: Loftoten Vikings and Camping!

Posted on June 26, 2015 by Clunegapyears

65 – Monday: Not quite to Plan

After our routine exercise before breakfast, K went out with the tripod and took some pix of a boat house on stilts as the colour of the water, rocks and seaweed fascinated her and played with shutter and aperture. Still don’t know how the boats got to the water as the tidal range is minimal! But the water truly reflects whatever is around it. At one point on our journey the sea was so calm with the sky reflected in it that a cruise ship looked as it if was floating in the sky.

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We drove onto Svolvaer, as it is really the major town on the islands, to pick up some free wifi (blog upload and app & podcasts downloads) and visit the Tourist information. Half failed on both counts. No free wifi, so forced to enjoy a cake and coffee where we obtained the wifi password, and the Tourist I.C. could only give us some info on the one island. Chemical toilet emptying does not seem to be plentiful in the islands, presumably as they are encouraging you to pay for camp sites. The TIC had given us a list of emptying points but as most were campsites, we knew we would have to pay. So, we duly pulled into the first campsite … it was sunny, it had really nice facilities and a washing machine …. the office was shut for lunch so we could not ask about emptying our toilet. We got the table and chairs out and had our own lunch ….. 10 mins in, it was a no brainer … we would stay the night. Actually really cheap; £18.50. Wash loads £1.80 each and a shower £0.90. Lovely owner who explained that he had worked on the site for 15 years and was now in his 4th season. We did not move from the site all afternoon. So lovely to get table and chairs out end erect the wind break (part of K’s leaving work gift) – yes, my May camping girls, even had an erection beer.

In fact, we got so comfortable, that we booked for the next night too.

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Why move far?

66 – Tuesday: Bikes and BBQ

A leisurely start followed by some exercise. James had followed a track behind the campsite which was hard work and came back as a sweaty puddle. So we capitalised on his burst of energy and cycled, via a wooden church (did not go in as they charged the equivalent of the meat for our BBQ), back to Svolvaer to the supermarket. Had lunch in the main square where the most humungous seagull virtually landed on J’s head after his sarney …

Seagull Pose: just in case

PM was spent very productively: removing the skunk like stripe of grey from K’s head. J was girded loins all ready to do the task, but lucky for him, could not get the rubber gloves on. He was relegated to mirror holder. Mum, I followed your technique and spotted a missed area to the side, but invisible as my hair hangs down 🙂 Really pleased to ge able to get rid of the grey

BBQ evening – bliss.

67 – Wednesday: Weather change and Viking Museum

Having collected the final laundry load, exercised and performed full sanitary services on Chardonnay, we moved on from our comfortable pitch … really lovely to be still for a couple of days. We drove down a virtually single track road with loads of other motor homes … thankfully lots of passing places to a small but major fishing village called Henningsvaer. Just pretty but we got to see some of the stockfish hanging to dry and loaded in a truck. The mostly cod is dipped in seawater and then hung to dry for the summer. Protected from seagulls by netting – perhaps I should wrap J in netting? Apparently you can buy it as a snack, bash it first to get the skin off as well as cook with it, after more bashing! I had thought is might be like the Portuguese salt cod that i was not overly keen on, but we will keep our eyes open to try it.

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We had intended to skip the viking museum – how much more can one take … but the reviews of the Borg Viking Museum were excellent. Despite the entry fee of £25 (thank goodness J is a senior – has to have some benefits!), we really rated it. They discovered the longest Chieftain’s long house in Scandinavia. Excellent AV interactive with individual headsets and artefacts to explain the importance of this site. Viking living made real in the long house by staff and a walk down to the viking ship, passing an axe throwing youth (Health and Safety has definitely gone mad in UK – real fires and axes).

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Over night pitch on a side road, beside a little used football pitch and …. no other motorhomes … yet!

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Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels

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