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About Clunegapyears

Travelling around Europe with James in our motorhome. And now solo, with friends

426-428: Water, Water Everywhere

426 – Sunday 24th July 2016:  Benbulbin – a Must See

We drove on around Lough Gill to Glencar Waterfall, which is on Glencar Lough (funnily enough) … water everywhere around here!  To be honest the waterfall, which is part of the Yeats drive was disappointing … set up as a massive tourist venue with block paving, a horse drawn carriage to hire and ice cream van.  We did not stay long, but we did manage a Mr Whippy.  The ice cream vans only seem to do these, no choice of ices on sticks 😦

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Glencar Waterfall.

James had been going on about Benbulbin mountain, the most notable in Sligo.  I did not know what to expect … we’d googled about walking up it, but received wisdom was that if was not safe, but J had found a walk just north of it.  So we headed there and the heavens opened … water water everywhere!  We lunched, rested and in a reprieve of rain set off … only for the heavens to open again!  It did dry up a bit and we could see the clouds and mists beetling across the top of Benbulbin revealing the most amazing wide vertical riven rock face.  A seriously memorable mountain.

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Benbulbin:  poor weather meant we really did not have the best view of it.

We fancied a coastal overnight, so headed to Streedagh Beach … an amazing spot and the sun actually made a fleeting appearance.  K spoke to a chap who’d swam … he does so every day of the year.  Cripes!  The water’s lovely, he said, so in I went.  But with wet suit … and it really was silky.  J had to stay on shore to photograph the evidence … again!

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Evidence!

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Taken when the sun finally came out from Streedagh Beach.

We’d planned to stay the night here.  We knew the beach parking sometimes flooded at high tide, so I checked with the life guards … we should be OK.  J was just washing up from dinner and a guardian angel knocked on the door …. the tide was creeping up close and she’d seen lots of motorhomes and cars destroyed … even though I’d checked, the tide still had an hour to go till high tide, but it was close enough.  We very promptly packed up.  Fortunately today was a new all time record in the Clune household … ever!  it was our third dry night in a week since we met over 10 years ago!  Our really lovely guardian angel suggested we drive south to Raghly Point – the the small fishing harbour.  She said … views of Benbulbin and across to Downpatrick mountains – fabulous.  And water!  Although now nearly 9.30, we filled up all our bottles and on board tank … with the view to showering in the morning.  A real gem of an overnight.

J here:  Now then… Our gallant readers will know a little about our PeePeePot.  Yesterday, as I was going about my ‘business’ – I thought about how we might classify our ‘emissions’ ?  How about a wine classification?  Demi-sec?  The container is a sort of demijohn.  Well, see have been dry for a few days – hang about – we are very ‘sec’ indeed – too much information?  Ok – you can ‘sec off’!

 

427 – Monday 25th July 2016:  

A run around the peninsula and then a massive spring clean in the van … and then we showered.  Clean sheets, clean van and clean us.  Joy.  Then we filled up again with water … and had chats with the local fishermen … lobster no good at the mo, as the weather too poor, so they are catching crab, but the price is low.  

We’d now a big Ikea bag of laundry, including the bedding, so I’d googled laundrettes nearby … but by the time we got to Bundoran it was gone 3.00 and the laundrette lass said it would not be ready till tomorrow.  We contemplated staying in the aire next door … EUR15, including showers and electric … but ever budget conscious me (unless it is something I want!) said no, EUR15 is EUR15 and we don’t need to spend it!  But we’d also googled that it was going to cost EUR1 to dispose of card and plastics and EUR4 for a bag of household waste (no free bins and all waste except glass and tin cans are chargeable …. BUT very few recycling / disposal centres and they have very restrictive opening hours … do not get me started on this!!!).  HOWEVER, there was a Lidl next door and J checked … the aire had bins … soooo we could claim the aire was only actually going to cost us EUR10, by the time we’d paid for waste disposal elsewhere, when we’d found one that was open!  And we’d about 4 days of waste starting to smell and be tripped over … in our now pristine Chardonnay.  J rang the contact number and PJ came and opened the barrier and gave us a tour of the newish facilities.  

We shopped and then took a wee dander around Bundoran.  I was not expecting a lot, as it is a well known (in Ireland) seaside resort.  But once you get past the amusement arcades and mini fun fare, it had really pretty beaches, good for surfing … too far for me to walk in my wet suit!

We made the most of our EUR15 … all waste disposed, free electric so the slow cooker made an Italian veggie soffritto and slow cooked a whole chicken, charged devices, toilet emptied and all water replenished.  And I showered … quite necessarily, but because I could!

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Bundoran: one of the small beaches.

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Beaches and rock pools.

 

 428 – Tuesday 26th July 2016:  Belleek Pottery

We both ran through the town and along the beach front … nice.  And I then Pilates’d on the grass.  J cooked a one pot bacon bits, onion and mushroom scrambled egg thing on the bench outside, just before the drizzle started.   We collected the washing – even the knickers were neatly folded!  

We drove onto Belleek.  Now this is one of my favourite potteries … I don’t like the stuff with the painted Shamrock, but Mutt inherited some basket weave Belleek from Great Aunty Mary, which I really do like.  Mum, I’m sending you a  postcard of how to date it … and whilst you’re at it, please put a sticker on the bottom that I will inherit these pieces … sorry Clare, hope that is OK with you!?  Did I mention that I resist spending unnecessary money … well, my new ear rings were really necessary and so was lunch!

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The moulds are only good for 400 pieces and then they loose definition.

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The porcelain mixture is poured in and and then out of the moulds, leaving a residue to harden up.  When it is removed, the staff remove imperfections and rough edges.

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They also cut off unwanted bits, such as the castellations on this one.

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To make the distinctive weave, the base is made and allowed to harden, then the spaghetti strips are moistened and laid over a form.

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Unfired.  All the flowers etc are made by hand.  This one would retail at about £150, which is not dear for the hours of hand labour.

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After firing, glazing and firing again, any paintwork is done by hand.  Then the third and final firing.

Neither of us fancied doing much more sightseeing, so we researched and headed inland to Lower Lough Erne to a wild parking.  Can anyone explain why Lower Lough Erne is above the Upper one?  We are currently parked up a the chain ferry car park that takes vehicles to Lusty Beg Island … yep … that’s the real name.  And guess what … it is tipping it down … please I’d like to see some blue skies!  The Aged P’s have been in Cx2 (Clare and Chris’) place near Bordeaux .. too hot to sit out.  

423-425: Neo Classical Cave Cavan Cavorting

423 – Thursday 21st July 2016:  Coole in Enniskillen

A short drive to Castle Coole, just south of Enniskillen.  As we arrived, it dawned on us that we were back in N. Ireland … the Sterling wallet with the Italian National Trust cards had to be retrieved from its hiding place!  You have to book onto a house tour and no photos allowed inside, as the furniture etc. still belongs to the current Earl who has a wing of the house and the farm on the estate.  

One of the Earls was married 3 times.  Wife Number 1 died, so in his 40s he married an English 17 year old; she could not bear him or living in damp Ireland so they separated … unusually she was allowed to keep her daughter with her in London until the child was 5, when she had to return to be brought up in the family home.  It took 13 years and an Act of Parliament for the Divorce.  18 months later he married the neighbouring money and estate … sorry, I mean, his third wife.

Another story was that King George IV was touring Ireland and expected to stay … we saw the plush unused State Bedroom.  George had previously had an affair with ??? who now lived in Sligo – their passion was rekindled and he never got further than her House and it is said that this is why the road between Dublin and Sligo is so straight!

It is funny how you can have empathy with your fellow tourists … we were all aghast at one family who had the MOST obnoxious child … she kept sitting on the chairs, touching everything, running around and barging past people.  The parent’s made no attempt to restrain her.  I don’t know how the guide didn’t evict her … I know if I’d ever had to teach her, she have spent a lot of time outside the classroom and catching up work in detention with me!

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Castle Coole – another neo classical edifice built by one of the ‘Plantation’ Lords  The Earl of Belmore owned a ship and barges, so he imported Portland Stone from Dorset!  The cost nearly bankrupt the first Earl, but not to worry … they all just married more money!

From here we travelled to Asda in Enniskillen and its free large carpark … very important to stock up on alcohol free beer …. it really has improved a lot since it first came out.  The TIC was very helpful and walked around the town, in between sunshine and really heavy downpours.  Enniskillen is actually surrounded by water, making it an island.  It is mostly known for the IRA bomb killing 11 people in 1987, but we did not go looking for any memorials … there must be something in recognition though.  We had read that both Oscar Wilde and Samuel Beckett both went to school here.  There should have been a Beckett Festival on at the moment, but the main sponsor had pulled out.  A lovely high street with lots of independent shops.

The castle was mostly being refurbished, but has a central Keep with the Inniskilling (old spelling) Regimental Museum.  Enniskillen had formerly two Regiments – all subsumed into the Ulster Rifles … now based in … wait for it …. England!

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Tomorrow we planned to visit both Florence Court House and the Marble Arch Caves … we politely asked both receptionists if we could park overnight there …. not allowed, but the charming girl in the Caves told us about a carpark 13 mins down the road in Belcoo … where she came from.  A great pitch with a toilet and a park … we watched a group of ladies slogging their way around it whilst we consumed wine … not an alcohol free night!!!

 

424 – Friday 22nd July 2016:  Marble Arch Caves and Florence Court

A short run around the park … J in front stopped on lap 2 and that was no encouragement for me to carry on … all his fault!  So I did some punishing Pilates!  

The Marble Arch Caves were only investigated in 1895, but not open to the public until 1985.  We’ve ‘done’ caves before, the most notable being the Predjama Caves in Slovenia, but these were bit different.  It was really evident where the river had excavated its path through the limestone – we followed its path.  The tours includes a boat ride, a lot of head ducking and walking through a walled walkway with water waist height on either side.  Some unusual formations.  Unexpected flooding of the caves in the 1990s was due to mechanised peat cutting on the nearby bog … the peat retains the water: remove the peat and flood the caves.   As a result the whole area was designated a UNESCO Geopark in 2001.

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 The colour is due to the peat minerals.

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Not animal scales, but the effect of eddies of water.

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A boulder had been washed away after the calcium had formed a canopy over it.

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A salad lunch prepped in Chard and eaten on benches at the Caves centre and then back up the road to Florence Court House – another National Trust.  Yep, we are making excellent use of our Italian FAI cards :).  Yet again, we had to book onto a tour and no interior pix allowed … not explanation this time as to why!  Another Neo Classical Palladian house with perfect symmetry.  This one was really only notable for its plasterwork ceilings – really remarkable.  The house was passed to the National Trust in 1953 and fortunately they upped the insurance from £8 to £25 million as the central part of the house burnt down in 1955!  Most of the plasterwork has been recreated, but it does not detract from its effect … one room had pheasants looming down from the ceiling.  

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Again, perfect symmetry, but a not particularly large house with only 9 bedrooms!

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A lovely rose garden and walled garden.

We’d picked up a really useful booklet on the Geopark at the Caves and the helpful lass who’d directed us to our last night’s parking recommended one of the walks.  We drove up the Cavan Burren carpark, but the gates would be locked at 9.00.  Back down the hill then to a carpark outside a Church a few miles away.

J had volunteered to cook.  Now this may not sound remarkable, but it is … in all the many years I’ve know him, he has cooked me one cooked breaky and one evening meal.  The deal normally is that I cook and he washes up.  Fair enough.  As I write the blog, I have been giving some back seat driving instructions … just helpful hints, you know, and I do think he appreciated it.  I have just got involved though, as I could smell burning.  You did put water in the bottom of the steamer?  Yes, I definitely did.  I’m coming over to have a look …. the base of the steamer did have water in it … and all the veg, but it was sitting on top of the top part of the steamer … whoops!  But it was delicious.

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He’s now volunteered to cook once a week … yay!  And I did the washing up, although he offered … nope – you cooked.  Fair enough! 

 

 425 – Cavorting in Cavan Burren and in Search of Innisfree

J here …

We had overnighted outside the most plain church – with free WC facilities!  K ran and I sort of dawdled but actually I did some tidying and readying the van for our graceful departure.  (K: he’s turning into a domestic Goddess!)   

A lovely relaxing walk at Cavan Burren – strangely unpublicised in the guide books? But it all quite new – 2014 – and huge expenditure and beautifully sign posted with info boards all the way round – Dolmen / tombs from 6,000 BC!!!  

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Farming gave way to forestry in the 1950’s and this is the remains of an abode with the ancient Dolmen in the back being adapted for livestock shelter.

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This hole in the ground is actually aline kiln from the C19.  We had not idea of all the multiple uses of lime: spreading on alkaline fields, white washing walls, building mortar when mixed with sand, fine plaster work, as a mild fungicide to keep buildings clean and as a slug deterrent.  We should all have them in our gardens!

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To the hill of Dooney via Sligo town – John Joe, Fr Tom and Mammy all called this their home at Ardsoran on the Sligo/Roscommon border.   Since I was a small child, I have been spellbound by Yeats’ poetry and the magical Lake Isle of Innisfree – raised your parents on the lyrical words… “and peace comes dropping slow…” Such magical word music.

“I will arise and go now

and go to Inishfrre

and a small cabin build there 

of clay and wattles made

and peace comes dropping slow”

…  Peace? Yes!

The weather was not good and we could easily have passed on to other locations…we would have greatly regretted it… We will stay here for the night at the car park for Innisfree – quiet and very peaceful – have we used the word ‘peaceful’ a lot recently? With good cause… We are both a little fatigued – I’m knackered after my guest appearance on Celebrity Faster Chef – I did not say ‘Farter Chef’ although our blog may silently record otherwise…?  I really enjoyed cooking and since K has done 100% of our culinary masterpieces, it is time.. and ‘time and tides wait for no man’… There may be a minor out burst of poetry here…

Having spent another tasty night of zero alcohol-free beer – extremely tasty – we will permit ourselves a modicum of wine tonight…

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Lough Gill and the sun is trying to make a brief appearance!

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We came in search of Innisfree … J has been reciting verses of The Lake Isle of Innisfree to me since we met.

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The right hand humps are the Sleeping Giant.

 

 

 

416-422 : Dublin Days

416 – Thursday 14th July 2016:  Fionnualla and Family

A good run around the site.  We left the campsite having explored nothing of Tollymore Park, but every now and again you need a down day.  OK sized pitches with hard standing and a shower block.  Chemical toilet and taps along the road sides for water, but no grey waste outlet!  Knowing we were headed to the Republic of Ireland, we swapped wallets back to the Euro one … fortunately nearly 200 in it … worth more than when we got them!

We did a food shop, first Lidl and then Tesco, for the bits not available in Lidl – it does mean shopping takes a lot longer, but worth it on the purse!  I had offered to cook for Fionnualla and Shaun – we last saw them February 2015 and Fionnualla cooked for us.  Having purchased all the ingredients I then started prepping … in the Tesco Carpark!  We checked to make sure we could not see a time limit on how long we stayed there, as we did not want another ‘outstaying your welcome’ fine as we did at Aldi in Bakewell!  Choc mousse setting in fridge, mash done, mushrooms stuffed and chicken cacciatore done … means we can relax when we arrive.

We were a little later arriving than planned … I was driving and started to question where we were when I saw a sign to Dublin Docks and I knew that Malahide was further north!  J caught navigational napping … in his home town!!!  The rush hour and stop start to get back out meant that it was MOST DEFINITELY drink o’clock when we arrived.

Really lovely to spend time with the family, especially Fionnualla, who is a childhood friend of J’s … she is one of those special people.

417 – Friday 15th July 2016:  And onto Camac Valley Campsite

No early start and no run … feeling too full of food and wine excesses from last night!  Still managed to tuck into the breads, hams and cheeses that Fionnualla gave us for breaky.  Brown soda bread .. yum yum.  Daren’t buy any!  She also directed us to a massive Tesco so I could buy a cake tin.  I know, what on earth do I want with a cake tin in a motorhome, and I’m not really over fond of cake anyway (more a sticky sickly out or copious amounts of cheese person).  Delia (J’s sister) and Liam were holding their annual family BBQ on Saturday and for once we were able to come … and I’d offered to bring some puds and …. toffee vodka.  Fortunately, J had ground up the hard toffees and mixed them with the vodka whilst i’d down food prep yesterday … as there was none of bottle 1 left after Fionnualla and I had finished it off last night!

We attempted to visit Kilmainham Jail on the way to the campsite.  But no chance … apparently you have to book ages in advance.  No Plan B and J not feeling too good so we headed straight to Camc Valley Campsite.  We’ve stayed here a number of times before … EUR 27, but this includes a fully serviced large pitch – love having water on tap … every time Chard did a ‘I’m empty’ gurgle, so easy just to put the hoze in and switch on the tap.  We normally conserve water as music as we can … we got very liberal with it here!

418 – Saturday 16th July 2016:  Family BBQ

How annoying … I was short cream for the ‘Passion Fruit and Marshmallow Sensation’ … the recipe book’s name not mine!  So J, with his navigational skills back on form, cycled off to the nearest town 🙂

We had so much to carry … wine, toffee vodka, two puds and coats … so the trusty shopping trolley came in handy.  The journey was NOT so handy!  Bus 69 from the site into town:  15 mins late and then took an hour.  Bus 145 out to Cabinteely … another hour.  All told, door to door 2 hrs and 45 mins!

It was brilliant seeing all the family as the last time K saw them in Montecatini, Tuscany last August … J had flown home in October briefly for Jade’s christening and seen some bods then.  Not able to face the nearly 3 hr repeat bus ride back, we splashed out and took a cab!

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419 – Sunday 17th July 2016:  Up the Dubs

Time to run and do pilates …  been seriously slacking!  Being Sunday, we had the choice of ONE bus, as they only travelled every 2 hours!  The 1.15 it was.  Someone should have told the driver though, as he did not arrive until 1.42!  Once into town we followed the blue shirts up to Croke Park.

The game went as predicted – The Dubs won by a healthy score – but Westmeath gave a really good showing – they will win major trophies very soon – all the best of luck to them – more competition is needed in Leinster…   The game was enlivened by a streaker – male and a fine figure of a man!  Liam was absent from his seat when the streaker hit the pitch and on his return was greeted with:  You got your clothes back on quick!

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Handbags at dawn … I had no idea that Gaellic Football descended so often into fisticuffs! 

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420 – Monday 18th July 2016:  Dr in Bray

J:  Monday we decided to have my regular health check – Delia kindly arranged for us to see her doctor in Bray. Everything is working as expected and reassuringly so… The beach looked inviting – we thought about a swim but the Irish Sea produced a windy reminder and we sailed back to Camac Valley.  Very hot – the BBQ lighting apprentice – Mr James C recommenced his in-dentures by lighting the fire with his teeth – not to be recommended for small children or anybody! The Nicky, Jimmy and Ian magic dust again lit the evening air and I managed to not fire up the endangers dentures!

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BBQ followed by firelog … not cold but comforting!

 

421 – Tuesday 19th July 2016:  Grand Canal to Phoenix Park

J:  Pilates of the Camac pirates…..I did my first real session!  Very good and I immediately felt the benefits on my back and shoulder.  We took the bikes down for the first time in weeks and Maps.Me guided us alone the Grand Canal to the city, where we picnicked in the Phoenix Park – the biggest City Park in Europe. We watched some boys and girls swimming in the canal but very sadly, some youths drowned there a few years ago.

Evening saw a BBQ – again!  Chicken, Halloumi (always think of Mike, as he introduced us to this on the BBQ) and veg – loving aubergine on the BBQ too at the mo.   Wine was partaken of but we realise again that we must cut down; its been a heavy booze week or so – tomorrow we will be teetotal – and I will try alcohol-free lager for the first time ever.

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With the abundance of easily available water, warm drying weather and two perfectly positioned trees for a washing line, I’ve been hand washing most days … leaving just a couple of items that needed ironing!  This does NOT happen often!

422 – Tuesday 20th July:  Back into Northern Ireland

An early run – 3k at sensible slow speed – during the run, Amelia phoned and said she and Thomas and Holly would like to join us for some time on our travels!  Beautiful! Amelia – you can have the van spare bed – it will be our treat and lovely to see youze all!!!

Craic in Irelands wild camping App was the fast track to Co Fermanagh via motorways that are not very exciting but at Euro 2.80 for a 50 mile trip – very acceptable indeed!

Quiet as in there’s only us by the shores of Lough Erne and OK views of the lakeside… but lots of lorries and traffic noise till the evening.  The bridge just ahead of us is single track and there has been a squealing of HGV brakes as the driver did not slow before realising there was already a vehicle on the bridge!  No running possibilities here as the road is just far too busy.

Settling down for the evening with alcohol-free beer that tastes absolutely like alcohol beer!!   Helps to have lime cordial in it!  Can I get a hangover from alcohol-free beer – no way!

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And finally, a pic I pinched off Facebook of Maddy at her school’s leavers dinner.

409-415: No Mourning an Ard Orange in N.I.

409 – Thursday 7th July 2016:  Dead ‘Ard Going’

Who booked the 4.00 am crossing???  Our arrival in Belfast Lough was peaceful and calm – we stopped nearby at Groomsport harbour and slept for a few hours …  We deserved a cooked breakfast for brunch and ate in sunshine on considerately provided benches.  After the last few days of rain in Scotland, the sun was MOST welcome and K finally divested herself of her thermal underwear!

We drove around the Ard Peninsula, stopping at Donaghadee:  pretty and boasting the oldest N Irish inn … we did not consume there, but instead had a homemade vanilla ice-cream sat over looking the boats.  We’re on our ‘olidays in a new country!  And the sun was shinning.

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Donaghadee.

We continue south to Portaferry with the intention of climbing the hill to a windmill to get the views of the fast moving tidal waters at the narrow sea opening.  Not to be – carpark with a height barrier.   Never mind, we’ll park in the town and see if we can see the first underwater hydro barrier … nope … height barriers again!  We left, hugging the coast, which at the start was really rather narrow with few passing places.  A kindly elderly gent reversed (zig zagged actually with his passenger giving verbal assistance through the use of her sun visor mirror!) back a way to let us through.

We halted at Scrabo Castle, just near Newtownards where we finally got a walk – up to this fine example of a lighthouse-style building with 360 degree views.  A fine wild camp spot with BBQ topped tables … so we used them.  We happily consumed the odd glass of vino with our BBQ, only later to see a sign warning that drinking in public risks a £500 fine … we’ve since seen a few of these public order signs up … seems strange when there’s BBQ facilities – aren’t a BBQ and Booze inseparable? 

And really quiet – good sleep… 

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Scrabo Tower: built by the tenants in memory of one of the Marquess of Londonderry … wonder how much say they had in the building?

 

410 – Friday 8th July 2016:  Titanic

Titanic is a must see and we planned it as a train trip – from Bangor West.  The weather was favourable – the exhibition is expensive but after 3 hours, it proved it’s good value. At £98 million build cost, they have to recover some money.  The industrial history of Belfast itself started the tale – following the shipbuilding local industry to the Titanic build – a suspended cable car ride (James didn’t look down) – the maiden voyage and tragic loss – discovery and recovery of relics – perhaps more might have been included and the reasons for the ship failure – structural loss or design?

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The Nomadic ferried passengers on board.

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The grand staircase.

We overnighted in a lay-by near Mount Stewart which K had spotted on the Ard drive yesterday.  A busy spot with people arriving with takeaways.  The good souls put the rubbish in the bins, but then the seagulls pulled all the rubbish out!  K went out with rubber gloves to do a bit of tidying … like to leave a free spot a little tidier than when we arrived.


411 – Saturday 9th July 2016:  Mesmerising Mount Stewart

Running is supposed to be a way of life, but recent poor weather, laziness and some unsuitable locations meant we’ve got a bit stiff recently.   However,  we returned to it this morning, a slow plod along the coast and K did some Pilates.

The Aged P’s had said Mount Stewart was a must see, however, since their visit it has had major refurbishment, including opening up the main staircase and more rooms.  You’ll need to come back, if you can fit it in you holiday schedule!  The National Trust has bought up loads of furniture and other memorabilia from other Marquess of Londonderry property sales and created rooms with a lived in feel.  They targeted the era of Lady Edith, who was married to the Maquess of Londonderry, also known as Lord Castlereagh – the politician.  Edith moved almost permanently into Mount Stewart and set about making a home of the house.  The gardens are absolutely incredible and we did a Gardener’s Tour … she designed the gardens as a solace due to Lord C’s numerous affaires!  There is quite a gap between the main children and the last Mairi, was the product of a brief reconciliation!  

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The house had really good room staff, including some youngsters.  Part of the Italian Garden.

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The Spanish Garden.

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Edith was interested in the classics and there is a lot of symbolism in topiary, as well as some unusual sculpture that she commissioned … Spot the Dodo above!

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We overnighted with about 15 other vans at the Aire in Donaghadee – this was our view 🙂


412 – Sunday 10 July 2016:  Boyler Table Battles

Leisurely start and we drove to Banbridge via Stormont, which the intention of walking the grounds … but no parking … a reoccurring theme?  K managed to get a retina flash image of the long vista up to the parliament palace.

Families are everything!  The Boylers are brilliant, our welcome outstanding, free drive accommodation, showers and use of washing machine – grand hospitality.   James reprised his (famous?) football skills with Daniel who had the Boyle/O’Reilly/Clune ball/hand/eye coordination … the score was Daniel – a lot – James 0!   The only thing was that it was on the table using Daniel’s supper … even Daniel knew it was little bit naughty!

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James and his neice, Mary-Kate.

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James should you really be teaching Daniel this?

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But Daniel learns fast!

 

413 – Monday 11th July:  Orange Order March and Band

A first for James Clune – taking part in his first ever Orange Day Parade and proudly waving a Union flag!  The family are aghast!  Orange Day parades take place across Ulster on and around the 12th July to commemorate the Battle of the Boyne, when Prince William (Dutch and protestant) came over to the aid of the Irish and defeated King James of Scotland and England – Catholic.  In the times of the ‘Troubles’, the marches were targets for local conflict and more trouble.  K did check with the really helpful lady at the TIC … yes, really family friendly.

A great afternoon and evening … lots of marching bands followed by events in the recreation field.  The Scottish Ulster dancing was brilliant:  one girl said they practice for 3 hours a week plus competition time … it showed.  Apparently in this part of Ulster there is more Scottish dancing than Irish, as they link back to their Scottish ancestors.  A great band and a massive bonfire.  The pallet suppliers must love this time of year as their sales go through the roof … most towns and villages had a towering stack of pallets all ready to go up in flames.  The ones nearer Belfast were ludicrously tall … a few real leaning towers … fire risk?

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This is for the family … J waving the Union Jack at an Orange Day festival!  

 

414 – Tuesday 12th July 2016:  Loyal Orange Order and Silent Valley

 A good run through Kilkeel town before the marchers started – they started practising at 6:00 am today, so it was an early first cup of tea!  This was the main march, with Loyal Orange Lodge bands from nearby towns all playing.  Each band was followed by the members, all dressed in suits … quite a few suits were ill-fitting and obviously only come out on high days and holidays.  The quality of the playing was superb.  The sight of wheelchair bound soldiers of old with their medals on proud display brought tears to our eyes… The history is well known – we now appreciate it much more. 

Back to the field of last night – just stalls designed to fleece all the kids of parents’ money and people picnicking, so we returned to Chard and had our lunch.  

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The Lodges are pretty wealthy … a number had private plates and Kilkeel had a huge new Lodge building only built in 2015.

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Just caught this lady … loved her dress … could’ve done with it for the Queen’s Birthday celebration in May with Frances and Edward.

We planed to spend two nights up in the Mourne Mountains and do some walking.  We started with Silent Valley; reservoirs that feed Belfast and County Down.  A little dull walking along the reservoir, but then you turned a corner to that wall of the second reservoir.  A walk to and up – and down – 300+ steps and the views from the top were pretty good. 

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Mary-Kate had heard about cars being broken into in the Mourne Mountains over the holiday period, and K had read about trouble at an aire, so we booked into the Tallymore Park campsite for two nights.  Being on site means a BBQ is mandatory … although the awning did come out to protect BBQ and us from the frequent downpours!  Has our reader ever heard of a campsite where the rules included a ban on fire-logs on pain of instant expulsion from the site?   The site is OK but a little tired but the price is reasonable.   A few glasses of vino … don’t think a campsite can count as a public place and no house rule against alcohol.   AND we dipped into the toffee vodka that K had made … following the recipe that George gave at the wildcamping Brin Highland gathering … pretty good, but you don’t need much of it!

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415 – Wednesday 13th July 2016:  Sitting Pretty

Today we perambulated in the Olympic style (not!) and now taking it very slowly on a jobs/admin day.  We heard this morning the tragic news of 23 deaths in Italy in a train crash…it makes us realise yet again how precious our lives are and how lucky lifestyle…thinking of those who died and the injured and survivors…

Another BBQ evening 🙂



 

 

 

409-412: Rain Nearly Stops Play

409 – Sunday 3rd July 2016:  Rain Stops Play

The heavens opened and the rain kept on coming.  We had breakfast watching the muppet Irish man get out the awning on his motorhome and put chairs under.  None of the group wanted to sit out, so the wife’s brother had to put them all away again.  The muppet then wrapped the unwilling labrador in a padded coat and tied him up outside.  He also, was unwilling to comply, and bolted back in side.  Last night he’d left wife and niece in the downpour whilst he DROVE down to the toilet to empty their cassette (it must fill up at least daily with 5 of them and i don’t suppose they have a pee pee bottle!) … we offered them shelter but shed been told to save their prime pitch!  At least he provided some form of entertainment, even if we felt sorry for the wife!  I wanted to tell her to bin him, but J restrained me.

The grey skies and constant rain have started to get to me … I just need to see a blue sky for part of the day … is that too much to ask?  But others have said it before me … when the sun does come out here, boy o boy, in’t it beautiful!

The rain being well set in, we decided to head for a campsite – getting due for a shower .. the washing kind!  Glen Nevis campsite it was.  There’s the chance for a climb tomorrow if the weather improves.  On arrival we did the laundry.  Even paid for the tumble drier for most of it.  I must look poor, as one kind chap gave me some 20 pence coins for the spinner for my bit of hand washing!  The awning came out so we could dry it under … since the awning was out, out came the BBQ and a fire log.  Nice.

 

410 – Monday 4th July 2016:  Ben Nevis Rained Off

No break in the weather, so we lazed in bed.  The ascent of Ben Nevis will have to wait till next summer.  Too wet for a run … all this rain has played havoc with our running routine.  I resorted to Pilates  in the laundry room … it was dry and Radio 2 was being piped.

We found Lidl in Fort William and did a mega shop.  My last fortnightly Lidl shop was £114, today’s was £117 … some pattern of consistency there.  Morrisons for the remaining items and a full cooked breakfast 🙂  Tried square sausage and potato cake for the first time … not my fav!

By this time it was 3.00 p.m. …  A short drive and we stayed in a lay-by along side Loch Lomond.  We’d tucked up well into the hedgerow, but that did not stop a large flat bed thundering past us, inches from Chard’s panels.  A gasp moment.  It became apparent that it is normal for trucks and vans to use these lay-bys with in and outs as a way to pull over the let faster traffic past without reducing much speed.  It did quieten down and we had a peaceful night.

 

411 – Tuesday 5th July 2016:  National Maritime Museum – Irvine and Iamthegooddan

No run again as a busy road and no footpath.  Grr!

We visited the Scottish National Maritime Museum in Irvine. The building was a ship yard from Glasgow, rebuilt stone by stone.  Inside were some notable boats, such as one that was dropped over sea during WW2 for ditched pilots to climb into and another that was moored along the bomber routes … not much used except by a German who spent the rest of the war interred!  Quite a lot of paddle steamers were made on the Clyde, including the Waverley which always does a week in Bristol.  Clydebank was at the foremost of ship building technology, but the managers became complacent (lack of marketing and innovation)  and were beset with strong and militant unions …. overseas competition killed ship building in the area.

A few other facts:

  • 90% of the world’s freight still goes by water.
  • Singer sewing machine exported 36 million machines between 1885 and 1943 from its Clydebank factory.  In the 1960s it employed 16,000 workers.

 

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Lots of massive pieces of machinery.

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The timber yard and ship building here had long gone leaving the area very run down, but the council built these houses and flats in the 1990’s in the old style, making the area really attractive.

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One of the few remaining WW2 air pilot rescue boats.  As they had no engine, they were mostly used for target practice after the war.  A tough of humour, the sign inside saying to relax, smoke the cigarettes and food, but not in the first day and hopefully you’ll be picked up soon!

 

Part of the ticket price was a guided tour around an old wrought iron cargo ship and a tenement flat built by the timber yard owner for his workers.  Compared to the central Glasgow tenements, these were considered luxury.  What made J and I chuckle was the gasps from the children on the tour at how people lived 100 years ago … and the similarities with our life!

  • live and sleep in the one room … we do that!
  • only bath about once a week and strip wash the rest of the time … us too!
  • clothes washing is done by hand and air dries … yep, most of the time and inside the ‘van if its wet!
  • no dishwasher … well, I have James!
  • and wait for it … they had a guzunder (chamber pot for night time) … yep … we have our pee pee pot!!!

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The main room where it all happens … bigger than Chard though, but we are only two people.

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J with Irvine harbour.

We had pre-arranged to meet Dan, who we met in Sicily in December.  He travels back home to Bonnie Scotland every summer and shivers until it is time for his next 6 months in Sicily.  He’d given us a wealth of Scotland info, especially places, but we’ve not had time to explore them all this trip.  We met in Troon, not in either of my guidebooks, but a solid town, a small beach and best of all … the BEST FISH AND CHIPS I’VE EVER TASTED.  Dan and I had sole, with the lightest of batters and J had salmon fishcakes, with identifiable pieces of salmon.  If anyone is in the area, this place is really worth a detour.  We ate the lot, with Dan’s homemade tartare … and drank too much!  He even laid on the sun for us … a superb viewpoint over the estuary watching the ships pass.

 

412 – Wednesday 6th July 2016:  Culzean Castle

No run – by the time we got up, the rain had started … again.  As we said goodbye to Dan, who we plan to meet up with when we cross back to Scotland from Belfast in August, he told us he’d read that one of our compatriots from the wild camping.co.uk Highland Gathering mid June had lost his van to an engine fire.  We’d met Pat again at Helmsdale Harbour … he was doing the North Coast 500 too, but generally a bit slower than us.  He’s OK but the van is a write off.  The frightening thing is that he’d had a fire extinguisher on board, but it was not man enough to kill the fire.  Checking ours!

We really enjoyed Culzean Castle (pronounced Cullain).  Robert Adams was given carte blanche to rebuild and then rebuild again the castle.  A later extension was done in his style and it is remarkable that the Victorians did not rip it all out and go Gothic.  It has been seriously renovated … millions of £s … and nearly bankrupt the Scottish National Trust.  It is their second most visited property.

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The Game Keeper arrived to feed the Red deer to bring them to the fence for the visitors. The velvet on the stags’ antlers could be harvested as a Chinese aphrodisiac!  In some places, you are not allowed to pick up the cast antlers, as the stags will eat them to gain enough calcium to grow new ones.  The fawns of Red and Roe deer are always spotty to act as camophlage, whereas Fallow deer remain spotty … didn’t we learn a lot!

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Robert Adams design … a ruined arch leading to the viaduct and thence to the new side entrance of the castle. 

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Orangery, castle and then the stables.  The Adams Home Farm, further away, was also in the same style.

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View of the viaduct.

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Part of the interior … the Earl had mustered a local army in case Napoleon invaded … wall decoration is a much better use.

We overnighted within 5 mins of Cairnryan, with another 3 motorhomes.  Just as I was cooking supper, the Port Police came around … I’m sure he reported all the number plates over his radio … but I did go and ask if we were OK to stop the night here.  He assured me we’d be safe :).  J reckons he was checking for illegal immigrants.  With the 4.00 am crossing tomorrow, we were in bed before 9.00 (unheard of), but then woken at 10.00 by Maddy!  She rang from Aya Nappa to say she and ‘Nig’ had arrived and it was bloody hot!  Cheers for that information!