About Clunegapyears

Travelling around Europe with James in our motorhome. And now solo, with friends

352 – 355: The Long SLOW Road Home – Part 1

Posted on April 10, 2016 by Clunegapyears

352 – Thursday 7th April 2016: The Long Road Home

We are now on our journey north – home. We are booked in for catching up with friends and family, as well as maintenance work on Chardonnay and us!

We decided to avoid EXPENSIVE French motorways and enjoy the cross country route … and we sure are. Other than a circuit of Grasse where we initially missed a sign post and then a following the said signpost, ended up down a road that banned motorhomes as being too narrow … actually no problem. Guess they were concerned in high season when every other vehicle may be wide. But a minor panic moment, as I consulted Maps.Me on the iPad and could not see an alternative route, even had we been able to do a 13 point turn!

I had completely forgotten how stunning parts of Provence are – the mountains through Dignes les Bains, Sisteron and up to Grenoble demand a re-visit. Great rocky peaks and gorges … hiking country. Pix taken on the hoof …

A chapel atop!

A geologists deam.

I thought the cloud looked like the Pillsbury Dough Man climbing over the hills!

You can just make out the tendrils of snow!

We stopped at a small town called Laragne-Monteglin – pretty with mountains in the hinterland. An evening wander and I bought a French book. I had eye balled a book some days ago on the bus (leaning over my neighbour’s shoulder) and understood most of it so thought a similar book would help my French. On seeing a book shop I entered and requested something well written, current language and no technical words. The owner embraced my request and gave me a local Provence writer – however, I have had to download a French English dictionary … perhaps too well written. I have promised to let the book shop seller know how I get on with it.

Pitch was flat and safe with other motorhomes, toilet emptying but water replenishing switched off!

353 – Friday 8th April 2016: Driving on

A run along the back roads of Laragne-Monteglin, followed by Pilates (in the car park!):

Fruit growing territory

Spring blossoms. A lot of Forsythia and the hills in the background. Our run was along the flat valley 🙂

Another biggish driving day and we stopped at an free aire in Cuiseaux – a little north of Bourg en Bresse (spotted the cathedral multi coloured roof as we drove past). A notice declared the free electric was low ampage and not for heating, just lights. We tested it at the risk of having no electric as the fuse box was locked … no worries … heating, cooker, lights all on. Thank you Cuiseaux.

354 – Saturday 9th April 2016: Grr Wifi and Aah Dole!

A circular run past the sawmill (la scierie) and the very smart and gated abattoir – a perfect 4km. I left J to the washing up and ventured to the tabac to purchase a wifi top up. The assistant kindly agreed to telephone to validate the purchase … the recorded instructions spoke to fast for me in Antibes and the shop assistant there had validated for me too. Code validated, but a technical error. Need to ring to sort out. Not possible on my English phone though, so the lovely lady rang on the tabac phone … 20 mins later (J had washed up and made Chardonnay moving off ready), it was established she had sold me credit for voice not just data. I know damn well I’d asked for seulement data, pas d’appel; c’est pour un domino! GRRR!

We had identified two aires in Dole: one noisy, no services but central and the other further away but with services and a river side view. Who minds a shortish walk!? Gypsies on site all cabled up together with large dogs, but they seemed harmless and there were other vans there. After lunch we walked into town.

P1100384

Waterside pitch. All the other motorhomes were huddled in the bus car park … not sure why when we had the sound of the weir and the view! People sculling in the morning.

Dole is on the river Doubs, which runs through the centre. Gray slate roofs over mellow amber stonework. And the birth place of Louis Pasteur. His father was a tanner with a shop near the river: you can peer through and see the works. M. Pasteur even returned in old age and placed a plaque on the wall.

P1100367

On the outskirts. Every Italian town or village has a Piazza Garibaldi … can’t seem to get away from him! Not sure what he was doing here.

P1100360

P1100368

P1100373

P1100376

Louis Pasteur birth house.

P1100382

In search of free wifi, we even forced ourselves to stop at a bar ….. J consumed a couple of pleasant Cotes de Rhone, and I quaffed stirling Macon 🙂 And only EUR3 per glass. Bonus. Used to paying EUR4 in Italy, but you do get a load of nibbles there. We miss them, but perhaps better for our calorie intake!

355 – Sunday 10th April 2016: Troyes Joy

We both ran … short: K as she also did a Pilates session, but J short as he has a twinge in his calf again :(. Just hope this will not keep him off running.

A short drive up to Troyes. Scenery is getting more interesting … it had gotten a bit flat – industrial sized fields. Some pretty villages along the Seine. We are parked up in a large car park, no services, but only a short walk to the old town. The guide book describes Troyes as:

“Troyes is a delight, a city of magnificent Gothic churches and charming C16th courtyards … The city is famous for its heritage of stained glass and sausages (andouillettes), its knitwear industry and factory shops.”

Well, we saw a number of churches, but the cathedral was about to start a service so we could not fully appreciate the stained glass. Lots of wooden leaning and overhanging buildings. No sausages! But we saw factory outlet shops on the drive in, including a McArthur Glen sign! A really large old town centre and well worth the stop.

P1100387

Fish scale wooden tiles.

P1100390

Eglise St Pantaleon: exterior.

P1100391

Eglise St Pantaleon: interior. A really different quirky feel to it … wooden roof, statues, unusual stained glass.

P1100392

Eglise St Pantaleon: quirky!

P1100395

Eglise St Pantaleon: and more quirky!

P1100405

Not camera tilt … these wooden houses are supported by stone bookend buildings.

P1100408

Part of the finely restored St Peter and Paul Cathedral.

P1100403

Haven’t seen many language faux pas recently! I’m booking in!

P1100409

Glorious sunshine. A lovely town. End of the day and my new favourite Beer!

My Aged P’s are nearly always away and have travelled extensively. I’ve never met anyone else who has visited all bar one of the states of the USA. Usually when I say I am visiting a place, I get the response that I have already been there as a child with them …. this is the email correspondence – start at the bottom! They are in France. Can we NOT do anything first?

Screen Shot 2016 04 10 at 21 21 26

And finally a joyful Jade reunited with her duck (replacement one)

343-351: Nine Nice Nights Near Nice!

Posted on April 8, 2016 by Clunegapyears

343 – Tuesday 29th April 2016 – Destination Nice and a Nice Call

We had a last run along the coast in Lavento – our last run in Italy for … we don’t know how long before we return to Italy.

The beach front at Lavento.

We took the motorway up to Nice. Now to speak in French … tres cher compared to Italian motorways! Nice is too nice for campsites and free parkings so we are quite a way down the road in Antibes at an ACSI site, so EUR17 for 2 plus electric. Campsite quiet with large and hedged pitches.

As we arrived we said ‘Good day’ to an Aussie Camper on tour. A few glasses later and we had exchanged France / Spain and Italy good spots info and wifi Sims.

Nice phone call from my Munchkin who is on 4 weeks of Easter holidays. “I’m bored, broke and I miss you” … not necessarily in that order. “Can I come out to where you are?”. Yes, but since very important A2 exams are looming, the deal is 4 hours of revision per day. Agreed … she arrives on the 1st. Our Nice destination is really so we can spend some time with J’s daughter and granddaughter, Sarah and Jade, who live in the old port area. Slight change of plan – we had planned to mostly sleep at Sarah’s apartment, but when Maddy is here, I will sleep each night in Chardonnay so Maddy has a bed – although she complains it is like a park bench! Also, the revision is more likely to happen without the distraction of the most cute 10 month baby.

344-350 – Wednesday 30th March to Tuesday 5th April 2016: Nice is Nice!

For a change, I am condensing the next week into categories ….

Running

We ran most days and my Pilates mat made an appearance. J ran along the Boulevard des Anglais several times when he stayed with Sarah. I only had one opportunity to run here as I slept in Chardonnay with Maddy except for the first night – and knowing it was my only chance, I even ran in the rain! It really is a special place to trot. Otherwise our run was 1.5 km down the hill to the coast.

We ran on the bike track along the road … not a patch on the Boulevard in Nice. This is looking east towards Cagnes sur Mer

My return run up the hill, took me sweating and panting into a bakery to purchase croissants for M – was kindly given a bag as the assistant could see I was about to carry on running … incongruous! I managed to gasp out that they were for my daughter … wonder is she believed me?

And there’s J – had to buy him a belt …. all this running meant he had to walk holding up his trousers!!!

Transport

On our second day (day 1 being jobs for both us and Sarah, who had just got back from seeing family in Dublin), we walked down to the sea front to catch the number 200 bus to Nice Centre. It is supposed to come every 20 mins, but busses in either direction seemed scarce. Another patient passenger explained that there is a general strike today … about 40% only of the transport workers are working. I explained that ‘en greve’ was one of the first French words I learned. They speculated that in England we no longer have the right to strike … we subsequently read that the French air traffic controllers have been on strike 43 times in the last 7 years! After 50 mins the bus did arrive and after another hour we made it to the centre of Nice. A bit of a walk then to Sarah’s apartment to drop our stuff … it had become a 3 hour journey! a 20 min walk each end and a 1 hour bus ride, without a strike and I and Maddy were going to have to do this each day AFTER REVISION!

However, a saviour in the form of Sarah very generously offered us use of her car … her English driving license has just expired so the car would be dormant. So K remained sober. I have been zipping back and forth between Antibes and Nice, although not always the same route – and not intentionally! I eventually sussed the shore route is best as fewer traffic lights… one evening driving back, Maddy and I were stopped at 18 sets! Great to use the car to collect M from her flight. Given M’s heavy bag and the 1.3 km walk from the bus stop up to the campsite … it was really appreciated.

Sarah had mentioned she needed to get the car cleaned as her husband Gareth was arriving home shortly … I did the inside and then we took it to the jet wash. It still did not look sparkly so J attacked it by hand. But the DUST – it blew in and rained in. Chardonnay is no longer an off white, but has orange streaks and so did Sarah’s clean (or was) car. So the morning we handed the car back, we took it for its third wash. The jet wash place was heaving on a Sunday, possibly to be expected, but also on a weekday morning …. Queuing 20 mins plus. With all this dust, it really is the business to be in.

Evidence that for a nano second, it looked all sparkly!

We spotted this Monaco plated Bentley, illegally parking and commented that due to the colour (not the parking infringement) that it had to be a female’s car. It sure was – blond and beautiful … but I now notice that it is parked under a pawn brokers … wonder if she’d been selling her 21cwt rings?

Revision

My Munckin started well and then flagged …

Day 1: 1 hour, and after a flight 🙂
Day 2: 3 hrs 20 mins 🙂
Day 3: 3 hrs 20 mins 🙂
Day 4: Sadly ZERO! The concept had been that M revised, whilst J and I cleaned Sarah’s holiday let apartment …. however, sleep seemed to kidnap M.
Day 5: Another big fat zero, but to be honest not much opportunity.

I suspect, it was more than she would have achieved at home!

Food

One lunch in an amazing bio restaurant – limited menu, but oh, so fresh. A pizza on Maddy’s last day with a really thin crispy base. We did not care much for the waitress – her nose twitched like a rabbits and she seemed not not be entirely happy with her work, but I ate all my pizza, it was so yummy. Sarah led us to THE MOST AMAZING ice cream parlour … homemade and so many flavours, including macaroon, creme brûlée and Irish Coffee … of course! She then managed to lead us to a bar! I had my first French espresso … twice the size of an Italian one and not a patch on the caffeine kick … I’m so gonna miss the Italian cafe! Please notice, my coffee, whilst J had wine … I was driving M and myself back to Chardonnay that evening to sleep. Made up for it with a couple of glasses of Marsala later 🙂

It really helps to have a local to take you to the best places!

Yes, Sylvie – just for you!

Limoncello after the Pizza.

And a few shots of Jade in the restaurant … somehow seem to have missed taking a pic of Sarah.

351 – Wednesday 6th April 2016: Bike to Antibes

No Maddy, she flew home yesterday afternoon. No Sarah or Jade: Gareth arrives for his 8 weeks shore leave after 8 weeks on a super yacht. Lazy start and then we cycled to Antibes. Lunch in a cafe with a half litre carafe …. yeah, I could join J in a glass. Walk to wall sunshine and still 27C at 4.00 p.m. Lovely! Then an interminable wait at a mobile phone shop to sort out mifi hub SIM data. I needed to phone to activate it, but the French was so fast, I could not keep up. Asked a couple of youths – they could not do it either, so had to go back to the shop to ask them. The whole exercise took 1.5 hrs GRRR!

342 – 343: Cinque Terre: 5 Towns and More than 500 Steps

Posted on March 28, 2016 by Clunegapyears

342 – Sunday 27th March 2016: £evantoomuch at Levanto

We motorwayed from the Siena parking – picking up some breakfast along the way and refreshing our services en route…. some 3 hours later, we arrived at the campsite that K had picked out. The road in/up to the site looked very narrow – I did a recce and spoke to the site team – some doubt expressed about an 8 metre van negotiating their twisting lane…. then with myself and a chap from the site guiding K as driver, we made it up the hill – to the most expensive campsite on planet Earth (or in Italy) – Euro 36 per night! Reluctantly, we parked – the area is a tourist trap – and it’s Easter….. About 50/50 Italians and Germans … they can afford these site fees!

Under a greying sky, a tour of the town was de rigeur and off we went – the campsite didn’t charge us for walking on their road! Nice enough seafront promenade – possible running route for the morrow. Then, a little moment – a procession and marching band in medieval costumes – lovely. K captured this angelic chappie swirling his flag – he looks a bit serious – does he know those are the colours of my local football team in Dublin? We’ll recognise him in 20 years time – when he will be centre forward for Italy (James – you’re showing your age – what’s a centre forward ?)

The rain came – and we retreated to our £ucsious campsite – with fairly decent £oos… this could go on and on… £ots of vans parked c£everly very c£ose together – enough !

343 – Monday 28th March 2016: Cinque Cento Terre – More than 500 Steps!

There is a saying in Italy – “persona qui pedant 500 pedes – descende on arse!” It’s a recent saying – from today, actually…more later on that. We Trenitaia’d from £evanto to Consiglia to start the Cinque Terre walk – 3-4 hours estimated by the Tourist Office – quite accurate in our case. The photos give a good idea of the climbing – the paths were ok-ish in places – however, it must be said that in UK these paths would have been condemned on health and safety grounds. Which is better? Open a path that is narrow and steep with sheer edges – and trust people to be sensible – or close anything that hints of danger? We know the answer – perhaps Italy is not yet wildly litigious on h&s issues…? There was one sign we spotted at the end of the walk “Walking in the park is not recommended during bad weather”. Oops – it had rained all night and half the morning! And was very slippery … justification for what happened anon?!

Including a climb of 600 feet (sounds more impressive than 200 metres), we reached Vernazza – jam packed with tourists (it is a public holiday, after all) – and found a spot on the harbour wall to eat lunch – K’s pasta dish and fruit – plenty. Second leg of trip – more ascending and ascending… spectacular views – some (not just me) quite mature folk walking the route. We had to remark on the wide range of unsuitable footwear on display – everything from flimsy plimsolls (another old word, James) to shoes with heels and suede boots! Narrower paths – folk being polite in showing passing decorum (isn’t decorum a lovely word? Decorous decorum decorated decadent descending dallies!) The path was often so narrow that one waited to allow people to pass. K asked J what the most common word spoken was .. “Feck” was the answer … No, said K … “Grazie” in a plethora of Italian and very non Italian accents.

On one section, it was necessary (I swear it) to become quite intimate with passing members of the opposite gender – purely in the interests of – yes, decorum! A bit like pressing flowers – or, as the Roman might have said – “intimosa floribundance”! Then came the ‘floribumdance’! I was blocked by a group of young folk who were not displaying decorum – so I sidestepped and walked on a more slippy side of the path – the ground came up to meet my nether regions – two body bounces and a couple of scratches as a result of the descendarse method… K called for the air ambulance – I was winched up and shot off to the local arsepedale…actually, we nonchalarsely kept on walking – stiff upper lip – and bottom!

Down some very steep steps, and Monterosso reached out to us – with red wine and ice cream!

An excellent walk – stirring views – another superb day – sadly, amongst the last of our present stay in Italy…

The initial steps up from the train station at Corniglia, along with the masses.

We came from here…

Nets in situ to ready for the olive harvest.

Euphorbia and Irises – lots of Spring blossoms and flowers.

Picnic spot at Vernazza in sight.

Nearly all American tourists … a lot of gelato being consumed (not connected!).

Looking back at Vernazzo as we embark on stage 2 of the walk.

No question as to why the Cinque Terre is such a draw for so many tourists.

A cat sanctuary en route … with a notice asking people to feed the cats with the food provided in a bin.

And we came from here too … but you can see how steep the cliffs are.

Monterosso and the train station in sight. As well as olives, the cliffs also nurture vines … the farmers use mono rails to get up and down the slopes.

340-341: Seriously Stunning Siena

Posted on March 27, 2016 by Clunegapyears

340 – Friday 25th March 2016: Siena 1

Our arrival at this free overnight parking could not have been more timely – at about 1:00 pm ! Within a half hour, it almost filled with other motorhomes – we were very lucky to get a spot to suit our longer bus – obviously, the same parking Apps are being used by everyone. Our local public transport bus driver let us on free – as the nearby Tabacheria was closed – and at a subsequent stop, showed us where to get tickets! And waited whilst K went in to make the transaction. Would this happen in UK? Swiftly into the Centro Storico – we assumed our roles – me behind the lens – and K as the Gour Tide – whoops, Tour Guide! The Piazza del Campo is stunning – but I don’t fancy taking part in the Piazza Grand National (even without fences) – perhaps Mr Tim Leslie might be interested! The Duomo is impressive – but we must say that Orvieto is the biz when it comes to the Duompetition! The library and Baptistry contain magnificent works of art – lots by the Sienese School….. Late afternoon… we had earlier found a lovely small cafe where to coffee was very cheap and good – we now discovered that a glass of vino rosso was all of Euro 2! So, we expended Euro 8 of our daily fiscal allocation. Thus emboldened, we confidently set off on the number 10 bus to home. This number 10 bus didn’t go anywhere near home – K was tracking it on our MapsMe App. As the photo shows – we were ‘lossppy’ – lost and happy. When we arrived at the end of the line – I approached the driver and said in my most fluent English “We’re lost !”. I might have said “Nostra divertimento !” – but it probably doesn’t mean anything even if it sounds good. Fortunately, our driver replied in very good English that we should stay on the bus – back into Siena, driver change and then home by a different route on the same bus. By now, I had managed to identify our home by combining “parcheggio camper, Esso and McDonalds” – this produced the resulting location – “FondofBecky” – best way we could remember it. Chardonnay welcomed us sometime later… and we welcomed the grapes of wrath, or what ever we were drinking.

It may be easter weekend, but the Italian campers are out in force … the car park really filled up.

Described as one of the prettiest Italian piazzas – Piazza del Campo. The red brick paving was started in 1327 and is in 9 sections to represent the Council of Nine who ran Siena and the triangular shapes to represent the folds of Madonna’s cape. The bell tower is the second highest Medieval Bell tower in Italy at 102 m. It is the location for the famous bareback horse race twice a years – Il Palio, which lasts all of 90 seconds. People lounging in the sun eating gelato … so we did too.

P. del Campo

Our first view of the Duomo … similar to Orvieto in that it is alternate layers of coloured stone, however …

… whilst impressive, the facade is not a patch on Orvieto.

Part of the Duomo – the Piccolomini Library – frescoes from 1509.

The Baptistry: Renaissance font by Quercia, Ghiberti and Donatello … we are getting more familiar with Italian artists and sculptors … for the moment … having sieves for brains they will soon sadly be forgotten.

Our return bus ride … after 2 large glasses of rosso, we really didn’t care where we travelled!

341 – Saturday 26th March 2016: Siena 2

Evening repose was ‘tranquile’ through the night – until….at 5:25 am (K checked her chronometer) – there was a loud banging on the door! K (in dressing gown) rushed to the door – to shower Easter well wishes on the entire family of the person who had rudely intruded on our somnolence – to be greeted by a chap from the local street cleaning vehicle – accompanied by a Polizia officer! All 17 motorhomes were instructed to leave the parking area – while the cleaning was conducted. We (and others) parked patiently on the road outside to await the signal for return and resumption of – sleep! Bizarre or what? Tea first then zzzzs. Somewhat later, I ran – we brekkied (someone stole my favourite breakfast cereal…[someone else had said there was spare!]) and once again bussed into Siena – by the way, a single ticket costs Euro 1.20! Our dour kite (I’m in trouble now !) – tour guide (I’m not really a cereal killer!) had an App for a walking tour – which took us to a number of churches, Duomo museum, Duomo Baptistry, public buildings – and St Catherine’s thumb! I’d better explain that, quickly. St Catherine of Sienna (patron saint of the city) – dedicated herself to God at age 8 – received the ’stigmata’ – some miracles were attributed to her – her head is preserved in the Basilica di San Domenico – and her thumb! This last was a bit gruesome for us….. K watched some German youths check their own digits as they left the viewing.

End of tour (we were cereaously thirsty) and back back to ‘our bar’ – of the cheap coffee and wine. A bit later, the number 77 bus took us unerringly to our site – which now contains even more vans – 22 at last count.

Siena is a most beautiful city, easy to navigate on foot – and we will return…

Chiesa di San Maria dei Servi – just nice to put up a pic of an unfinished church facade! The first Rose window obviously needed replacing!

Looking at the P. di Campo bell tower and the Palazzo Pubblico 1297 from the rear.

The Museo dell ‘Opera del Duomo houses the original artworks from the Duomo as well as pieces commissioned for the huge, but only partly built, nave expansion … the plague of 1348 killed over half the population and the expansion was shelved. You can climb to the top of part of the incomplete extension (two pics up – the tall arch by the Duomo), but sadly we were saved from the climb as there was an hour’s queue! Such a shame!!!

We really loved the mellow red brick and the fact that Siena is large enough to wander for a day and a half without covering the same ground.

337-339: Blowing through Lazio, Tuscany and Umbria

Posted on March 27, 2016 by Clunegapyears

337 -Tuesday 22nd March 2016: Blowing at Bolsena

From our superb free pitch at Vitorchiano, it was not far to Lake Bolsena – the larger of the two lakes in this area. We had ‘Bradged’ our deadly Navduo to a set of coordinates for a motorhome parking site with services. The journey was fine – and the coordinates did lead us to the correct location – which was – a small muddy area just off the Lunghomare! There was a regular car park on the other side of the street with a motorhome parked – fortunately the Italian couple were just returning from a bike ride – and assured us that overnighting there was ok – they had stayed the previous night. Additionally, the chap (in fluent english) gave us loads of advice on areas to visit and other free parkings – yet more Italian friendliness and help! We lunched – and ambled in the town…. pleasant with views across the lake. Little to do other than have coffee with the locals …

Settling down for the evening, we noted that it was blowing quite a lot… But, we’re hardy folk – we’ve been blown about in Nordkapp and Castel del Golfo and other places. We rocked and rolled through the night – borderline for moving the van – but we stoically stayed put. Although we did change direction at 5.30 as the rattling the roof lights was keeping K awake. Now the reader will know that morning is running time (after tea in bed – and philosophising on the day ahead). I poked my head out of the van – hanging on to the door in the gale! Cold, gale force winds and rain… Guess what we did? We wimped – and had some more tea! In bed!! In the warm!

P1100250

Beautifully sunny. Beautiful view (and that’s not just J!). Beautiful free pitch. Didn’t want to leave. So we had another wander into town before leaving.

P1100247

The cliff top town has a town wall on the only entry side … with inhabitants. A few supplies including some lake Perch from a mobile fish van and a coffee. Total spend only EUR15 but at least we gave the town back something for such an amazing camper stop.

P1100253

Capodimonte on Lake Bolsena.

P1100256

P1100257

338 – Wednesday 23rd March 2016: Orvieto Sampled

We had planned to cycle around part of the lake, but easily came to the conclusion that we could never pedal compete with the wind. People have told us how pretty the lake and the towns are … yes, but you need some sun! Fair winds ‘blew’ us towards Orvieto – hill town with (Guide Book recommendation) possibly the most beautiful cathedral in Italy. And into Umbria, via a corner of Tuscany. Another identified free motorhome overnight parking with services – not free though. We arrived to see? An awesome motorhome park – with services – and WC, showers, shop – and open air cinema with padded armchairs and drinks service!!! Ok, I made up the last bit… but a superb site – and quite ok for Euro 18 per night. When we had parked our Chard – there were 3 vans on site. Later in the evening, 27 vans had cosied up together – and the site was still not full. Any road up (Yorkshire-speak ?), our footsteps took us to the Funicolare – the town had located the rail station and Funi – right at the van parking area – how good is that ? Or was it the other way around ? We Funic’ed up the hill and perambulated (that word again) to the Duomo (more later) – and the narrow Vicolo’s (K has ascertained that a ‘Vicolo’ is a narrow street – we have ‘Vicolo’d our way around Italy). Somehow, our pramrelations (Italian wine is good!) took us to – a bar. Really good local red – and snacks… After wine, K headed underground – this was not a wine effect but a desire to see some subterranean pigeon homes! I retired downhill – to the van, late sosta – and chores….

P1100277

War memorial overlooking the Umbrian rolling hills.

P1100287

Vicolo. The stone blocks are tufa, along with the pozzuoli stone (makes cement) were dug out from underneath, giving each house a Medieval cellar. In the 1970’s part of the hilltop subsided and residents are not allowed to make alterations to their cellars and additional columns have been added in some places and concrete is used to infill cracks. House insurance?!

P1100293

Other cellars were used as pigeon coops. Pigeons replaced chicken in the Medieval diet – They came home each night. They fed themselves. Bred every 28 days. And the poo made good fertiliser! An all round win, except for the smell! Apparently some restaurants still serve pigeon.

339 – Thursday 24th March 2016: Orvieto Imbibed Some More

Morning – tea – and run (not timeulsaneously though) – a good romp for about 4-5 km. Brekkied, etc and again to the Funi – better weather for walking but still quite a chill in the air. Duomo closed until 2:30 (this was at !:00 pm) – dilemma ! What to do? How about lunch? – we said simulsomethingorotherishly (how about that for word mangling?). We agreed with each other (funny that) and – the photos show the result. The (post-lunch) Duomo is quite amazing – very much one of the most impressive we have seen in Italy – the reliefs, frescoes and paintings are stunning. Well worth a visit. Back downhill to our van, we see there are now 30+ vans in situ for the evening – and the site has a few spaces left…..

Morning run: The view back to hilltop Orvieto and J striding ahead.

P1100298

St Patrick’s Well was dug for a Pope in 1527 who feared a siege. It has a double helix (twin) staircase … 248 steps down and 248 steps up. We elected not to do it just to be able to say we’d down it! Named after Ireland’s patron saint … something to do with how deep down towards purgatory they had to dig.

P1100307

I think this is the interior of Sant ‘Andrea; it had some C15 frescos, but I liked the pulpit and the columns.

P1100312

A shop window …

P1100243

… and inside another! Titter!

P1100315

We weren’t planning a proper lunch, but best laid plans, and all that.

P1100280

The side of the Duomo. A massive building nearby was built to house the workers and a clock tower to help them keep time. The Duomo was started in 1290 and took 300 years in total to build. We paid to listen to the audio information, which was like an architectural lecture and ended with ‘This is the end of the description”. Really felt we could have done with more information as we went around the interior, but guided walks do not start till the weekend.

P1100317

The pics just do not do the exterior justice.

P1100319

P1100320

P1100322

There were 4 panels with scenes from the Old and New Testament from 1320.

P1100324

Unusual to see so much marble used as an opaque window.

P1100328

The Reliquary of the Corporal … the Miracle of Bolsena where “real blood fell from a consecrated host onto an alter cloth”. The alter cloth is stored here and only comes out on special occasions … a notice told us to apply to the Bishop to find out when it would next be aired.

P1100340

The Capella Nuova on the other side had the most amazing frescos from 1499 depicting the Last Judgement. They had been seriously restored and just glowed.

P1100342

P1100351

P1100354

P1100356

This Dumo is just huge … possibly one of the tallest we’ve seen.

Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels

Author Archives: Clunegapyears