337 -Tuesday 22nd March 2016: Blowing at Bolsena
From our superb free pitch at Vitorchiano, it was not far to Lake Bolsena – the larger of the two lakes in this area. We had ‘Bradged’ our deadly Navduo to a set of coordinates for a motorhome parking site with services. The journey was fine – and the coordinates did lead us to the correct location – which was – a small muddy area just off the Lunghomare! There was a regular car park on the other side of the street with a motorhome parked – fortunately the Italian couple were just returning from a bike ride – and assured us that overnighting there was ok – they had stayed the previous night. Additionally, the chap (in fluent english) gave us loads of advice on areas to visit and other free parkings – yet more Italian friendliness and help! We lunched – and ambled in the town…. pleasant with views across the lake. Little to do other than have coffee with the locals …
Settling down for the evening, we noted that it was blowing quite a lot… But, we’re hardy folk – we’ve been blown about in Nordkapp and Castel del Golfo and other places. We rocked and rolled through the night – borderline for moving the van – but we stoically stayed put. Although we did change direction at 5.30 as the rattling the roof lights was keeping K awake. Now the reader will know that morning is running time (after tea in bed – and philosophising on the day ahead). I poked my head out of the van – hanging on to the door in the gale! Cold, gale force winds and rain… Guess what we did? We wimped – and had some more tea! In bed!! In the warm!
Beautifully sunny. Beautiful view (and that’s not just J!). Beautiful free pitch. Didn’t want to leave. So we had another wander into town before leaving.
The cliff top town has a town wall on the only entry side … with inhabitants. A few supplies including some lake Perch from a mobile fish van and a coffee. Total spend only EUR15 but at least we gave the town back something for such an amazing camper stop.
Capodimonte on Lake Bolsena.
338 – Wednesday 23rd March 2016: Orvieto Sampled
We had planned to cycle around part of the lake, but easily came to the conclusion that we could never pedal compete with the wind. People have told us how pretty the lake and the towns are … yes, but you need some sun! Fair winds ‘blew’ us towards Orvieto – hill town with (Guide Book recommendation) possibly the most beautiful cathedral in Italy. And into Umbria, via a corner of Tuscany. Another identified free motorhome overnight parking with services – not free though. We arrived to see? An awesome motorhome park – with services – and WC, showers, shop – and open air cinema with padded armchairs and drinks service!!! Ok, I made up the last bit… but a superb site – and quite ok for Euro 18 per night. When we had parked our Chard – there were 3 vans on site. Later in the evening, 27 vans had cosied up together – and the site was still not full. Any road up (Yorkshire-speak ?), our footsteps took us to the Funicolare – the town had located the rail station and Funi – right at the van parking area – how good is that ? Or was it the other way around ? We Funic’ed up the hill and perambulated (that word again) to the Duomo (more later) – and the narrow Vicolo’s (K has ascertained that a ‘Vicolo’ is a narrow street – we have ‘Vicolo’d our way around Italy). Somehow, our pramrelations (Italian wine is good!) took us to – a bar. Really good local red – and snacks… After wine, K headed underground – this was not a wine effect but a desire to see some subterranean pigeon homes! I retired downhill – to the van, late sosta – and chores….
War memorial overlooking the Umbrian rolling hills.
Vicolo. The stone blocks are tufa, along with the pozzuoli stone (makes cement) were dug out from underneath, giving each house a Medieval cellar. In the 1970’s part of the hilltop subsided and residents are not allowed to make alterations to their cellars and additional columns have been added in some places and concrete is used to infill cracks. House insurance?!
Other cellars were used as pigeon coops. Pigeons replaced chicken in the Medieval diet – They came home each night. They fed themselves. Bred every 28 days. And the poo made good fertiliser! An all round win, except for the smell! Apparently some restaurants still serve pigeon.
339 – Thursday 24th March 2016: Orvieto Imbibed Some More
Morning – tea – and run (not timeulsaneously though) – a good romp for about 4-5 km. Brekkied, etc and again to the Funi – better weather for walking but still quite a chill in the air. Duomo closed until 2:30 (this was at !:00 pm) – dilemma ! What to do? How about lunch? – we said simulsomethingorotherishly (how about that for word mangling?). We agreed with each other (funny that) and – the photos show the result. The (post-lunch) Duomo is quite amazing – very much one of the most impressive we have seen in Italy – the reliefs, frescoes and paintings are stunning. Well worth a visit. Back downhill to our van, we see there are now 30+ vans in situ for the evening – and the site has a few spaces left…..
Morning run: The view back to hilltop Orvieto and J striding ahead.
St Patrick’s Well was dug for a Pope in 1527 who feared a siege. It has a double helix (twin) staircase … 248 steps down and 248 steps up. We elected not to do it just to be able to say we’d down it! Named after Ireland’s patron saint … something to do with how deep down towards purgatory they had to dig.
I think this is the interior of Sant ‘Andrea; it had some C15 frescos, but I liked the pulpit and the columns.
A shop window …
… and inside another! Titter!
We weren’t planning a proper lunch, but best laid plans, and all that.
The side of the Duomo. A massive building nearby was built to house the workers and a clock tower to help them keep time. The Duomo was started in 1290 and took 300 years in total to build. We paid to listen to the audio information, which was like an architectural lecture and ended with ‘This is the end of the description”. Really felt we could have done with more information as we went around the interior, but guided walks do not start till the weekend.
The pics just do not do the exterior justice.
There were 4 panels with scenes from the Old and New Testament from 1320.
Unusual to see so much marble used as an opaque window.
The Reliquary of the Corporal … the Miracle of Bolsena where “real blood fell from a consecrated host onto an alter cloth”. The alter cloth is stored here and only comes out on special occasions … a notice told us to apply to the Bishop to find out when it would next be aired.
The Capella Nuova on the other side had the most amazing frescos from 1499 depicting the Last Judgement. They had been seriously restored and just glowed.
This Dumo is just huge … possibly one of the tallest we’ve seen.
Some were quite a climb down. Once buried, the entrances were sealed up but then had to be dug out again for the next family member. So unlike the Christian necropolis we’ve seen, no visiting your deceased relatives.
Our selected Trattoria was listed high in TripAdvisor and obviously popular … no room inside, so the waiter put a table together (literally stuck the legs on) on the balcony apologising that the season had not yet started. They obviously had not expected the other 5 tables that joined us. It was a memorable meal… this starter had 8 types of cheese and 8 salamis, served with a red pepper relish, honey and a strawberry & balsamic jam. Our main were J: ricotta ravioli with tomato and lemon and K: lake Perch with a sweet and sour orange sauce. All yummy and washed down with a litre of red. We retired to Chard after for a huge nanny nap … or did we just pass out?
Clune Gap Years 