Days 71 – 73: Artic Circle Revisitied

71 – Sunday: Narvik and WW2 Museum

We arrived at the Narvik motorhome parking just as most were leaving.  Exercised – we seem to regularly get up and drive to somewhere we can exercise off the E6 main road.  Breakfasted and visited the WW2 museum.  It covered the German attack, British and Allies counter attack, withdraw of Allies troops as needed on other fronts, 5 years of German occupation, resistance work and a harrowing section on the mass slaughter and abuse of political prisoners who were deemed lower than captured soldiers.  James was tour guide reading from the comprehensive English language booklet.  An old fashioned, but very interesting museum.  In a couple of years they will rehouse and probably make all interactive … we liked it’s quirkiness and low price!  There was a cable car to the top of the mountain, but it seemed pretty pointless as we could not even see the top due to the cloud!

Drove on through snow capped dark rock mountains and parked up with a couple of German motorhomes over looking the most amazing lake – the mists even lifted in the morning so we could see it!

Thumb P1050277 1024

Thumb P1050279 1024

Thumb P1050280 1024

Thumb P1050283 1024

Thumb P1050286 1024

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

72 – Monday: Tyres and Arctic Circle

Night time sojourn – off-main road car park – with a couple of vans and a tent from Poland – which had people inside – who went fishing…..  We had discovered a slow puncture in a rear wheel which J tried to blow air into and fainted!  Back to the truth – J cannot muster 4.5 Bar or 65  psi – only after a really hot curry!  Drove to Fauske and what did K see?  A Michelin sign over a tyre fitters.  A quick U Turn and 2.5 hours later we had a the slow puncture repaired and a can of ‘stuff’ to that seals such slow punctures.  Fully inflated we set forth.

We climbed and climbed …. the mountains got rockier and the adjacent river was essentially waterfall after rapids along its length.  At the top it opened up and we are at the Arctic Circle – for the second time, but this time on the way down and heading towards warmer weather!  We stopped for a couple of pix … appropriately there was a lot os snow around.  Hard to see but we are actually in front of the Arctic Circle sign!  And, of course, this Arctic Circle centre would not be complete without a miniature Nordkapp globe!  We have spent 14 days in the Arctic Circle.  On the way down, the countryside started to open out and this river was calmer and got gradually wider.

Thumb P1050293 1024

Thumb P1050297 1024

Thumb P1050298 1024

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We stopped in Mo i Rana just to replace K’s running shoes at a massive (shop called XXL) sports shop:  a bit like IKEA … you had to follow the grey path through all the fishing, cycling, gun etc sections before reaching the tills.

We stayed in a free car park overnight just off the E6 main road – small car park – with ultimately 9 motorhomes and one motorbike !  Cosy….

 

73 -Tuesday:  Trondheim

Thumb P1050299 1024

Up at dawn again (9:00 am!) and journeyed south to Grane village where 23 local men were shot by German troops for being members of the Resistance in 1942.  K norked – lighting up the whole of Norway in her new psychedelic running shoes – see photo below but watch with sunglasses only !  J ran – in his not so new and understated blue shoes, feeling shoe envy…   Then brekkie and SatNav set for Trondheim via a wc emptying and water loading facility – which ultimately proved as difficult to find as Alex Ferguson’s sense of humour when asked why teams visiting Old Trafford were never awarded penalties !  But, we prevailed…

The approach to Trondheim is impressive and looked to indicate a city of more than it’s 180,000 people. Then, we encountered the toll roads!  I must find someone to complain to – perhaps my successor as MD of a major UK road toll charging company!  Sally SatNav brought us to the only free motorhome overnight car park – full to the gunnels – we have parked in the adjacent pay park – all of £2.10 – and see what tomorrow brings…  It’s definitely getting warmer as we travel south – we have dispensed with the extra wooly blanket over the duvet at night – what night – oh for some stars !  I hear that UK is having a heat wave… 25 Centigrade?

Days 69-70: Mishap Morning!

69:  Friday: Driving Day

Little to report.  Again having planned a walk p.m., it clouded over and we felt lazy.  Decided against going to the Verstralen islands close by, as we really need warmer and sunnier weather to push us out the door to do a walk.  So will start to head south.  The guide book formed us that Nordkapp to Oslo is the same distance as Oslo to Rome so conscious also of time … we want to hook up with K’s sister and family and Aged P’s near Bordeaux towards the end of July.

Parked up with 3 other motorhomes and a very small hired Ford Escort van – this couple had a clever pull out kitchen, but the bed area was the whole of the rear with no blinds!  And it is light here 24/7!!.  Had a stroll on the harbour wall to the mini lighthouse.

Thumb P1050270 1024

You can just make out the cluster of motorhomes in the centre

Thumb P1050266 1024

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

70: Mishap Morning

Nice meal and a good nights sleep…. It needed to be for the unanticipated events of the morning!  As per our usual routine, we both prepared to run and walk – J to run 4 miles and K to walk/run for 50 minutes.  K set off a few minutes before J and the routine was set – each having a key for the van.  K returned – no sign of J – he should have returned after about 35 minutes!  K became increasingly concerned – J in hospital – no phone?  Lying unconscious on the roadside?  K decided to drive the van along the route to check for J – last seen giving a cheery wave from the top of a distant hill earlier during the walk/run. After only a kilometre or so, J appeared running towards the van – he had got lost – on a straight road in good weather conditions?  Mishap Number 1.  Does he need a guide dog?  Much relief though for both.

They set off to find a parking area to have breakfast.  A T-junction arrived and a right turn was the appropriate decision for the driver K.  As she turned, she remembered she had left her running shoes at the over night pitch – Mishap Number 2.  Unfortunately, on slamming into reverse, the driver side rear wheel slipped into a ditch which left the passenger side front wheel in fresh air – the van could not move as it is front wheel drive.  Mishap Number 3.  All brakes were swiftly locked – a number of motorists stopped to check if they could help and one lady phoned her husband to bring his tractor to tow us out. A charming chap – builder – was keeping us company – J staying in the passenger seat to provide some weight (?) as a counterbalance.  After some time – and more considerate enquiries from passing folk, tractor arrived – and extricated our home – no damage, but one soft tyre…  Breakfast was heartily enjoyed a bit later…..  When we had both recovered – sail was set towards Narvik…..  No further mishaps – don’t they come in threes?

Photos… etched in our mind!  We had not become blasé, but a missing James and a motorhome in the ditch has been a chastening reminder how fragile we, and our existence are.  A lesson learned and we got off VERY lightly.

Camped overnight just south of Narvik at a picnic area off the road.

Thumb IMG 1546 1024

Tyre gripping … air!

Thumb IMG 1552 1024

Would that be a a bit of a lean?

Thumb IMG 1549 1024

Day 68: Maddy’s Ball and A

68 – Thursday 25th: Grr – Weather

Maddy sent me some pix of her all dolled up from her Leaver’s Ball last night …. proud of my beautiful daughter – don’t she scrub up well!

image-27-06-15-09-17thumb_image-25-06-15-03-54_1024 2thumb_image-25-06-15-09-39_1024

 

Thumb P1050208 1024

Our overnight Football pitch … completely alone 🙂

The rain cleared for a while so we could exercise, but it was still damp and chilly in the air, so our planned walk did not materialise.  We drove through Lecknes, doing some basic shopping and getting rid of recycling.  And onto A.  yes, the town at the end of the island, really is called A.  As we came over the top a mountain, the clouds parted enough for the sun to poke through to reveal the most amazing views at Reine.  We, and as many motorhomes as would fit in the parking all stopped to take pix.  K even got tripod and changed camera lens, so sorry quite a few of similar subjects

Thumb P1050210 1024

Thumb P1050212 1024Thumb P1050223 1024

Thumb P1050227 1024

Thumb P1050236 1024

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thumb P1050237 1024

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At A we parked up with our fellow at the museum car park … by night fall it was cheek to cheek / bumper to bumper motorhomes, but thankfully quiet from about 11.00 till 8.00.  More stockfish hanging to air but heads this time.  Surprising how large and ugly they are.  Small fishing village pretty, but little here unless you fancy visiting the museum all about fishing, or actually going fishing.  it is however, the Maelstrom Sea that when it get going, if wind and tide are in the same direction, the waves crashing on rocks can be hear d5km away.  Stayed peaceful for us.

Rows of suspended cod heads ... still not sure what they are used for.

Rows of suspended cod heads … still not sure what they are used for.

Close enough, thank you!

Close enough, thank you!

Thumb P1050239 1024

Thumb P1050243 1024

Thumb P1050248 1024

Thumb P1050250 1024

Thumb P1050258 1024

Just part of one row of overnight motorhomers …

 

 

 

 

Days 65-68: Loftoten Vikings and Camping!

65 – Monday: Not quite to Plan

After our routine exercise before breakfast, K went out with the tripod and took some pix of a boat house on stilts as the colour of the water, rocks and seaweed fascinated her and played with shutter and aperture.  Still don’t know how the boats got to the water as the tidal range is minimal!  But the water truly reflects whatever is around it.  At one point on our journey the sea was so calm with the sky reflected in it that a cruise ship looked as it if was floating in the sky.

Thumb P1050149 1024

Thumb P1050150 1024Thumb P1050155 1024Thumb P1050159 1024

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We drove onto Svolvaer, as it is really the major town on the islands, to pick up some free wifi (blog upload and app & podcasts downloads) and visit the Tourist information.  Half failed on both counts.  No free wifi, so forced to enjoy a cake and coffee where we obtained the wifi password, and the Tourist I.C. could only give us some info on the one island.  Chemical toilet emptying does not seem to be plentiful in the islands, presumably as they are encouraging you to pay for camp sites.  The TIC had given us a list of emptying points but as most were campsites, we knew we would have to pay.  So, we duly pulled into the first campsite … it was sunny, it had really nice facilities and a washing machine …. the office was shut for lunch so we could not ask about emptying our toilet.  We got the table and chairs out and had our own lunch ….. 10 mins in, it was a no brainer … we would stay the night.  Actually really cheap; £18.50.  Wash loads £1.80 each and a shower £0.90.   Lovely owner who explained that he had worked on the site for 15 years and was now in his 4th season.   We did not move from the site all afternoon.  So lovely to get table and chairs out end erect the wind break (part of K’s leaving work gift) –  yes, my May camping girls, even had an erection beer.

In fact, we got so comfortable, that we booked for the next night too.

Thumb P1050165 1024

Thumb P1050168 1024

Why move far?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

66 – Tuesday:  Bikes and BBQ

A leisurely start followed by some exercise.  James had followed a track behind the campsite which was hard work and came back as a sweaty puddle.  So we capitalised on his burst of energy and cycled, via a wooden church (did not go in as they charged the equivalent of the meat for our BBQ), back to Svolvaer to the supermarket.  Had lunch in the main square where the most humungous seagull virtually landed on J’s head after his sarney …

Thumb P1050177 1024

Seagull Pose: just in case

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

PM was spent very productively:  removing the skunk like stripe of grey from K’s head.  J was girded loins all ready to do the task, but lucky for him, could not get the rubber gloves on.  He was relegated to mirror holder.  Mum, I followed your technique and spotted a missed area to the side, but invisible as my hair hangs down 🙂  Really pleased to ge able to get rid of the grey

BBQ evening – bliss.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

67 – Wednesday:  Weather change and Viking Museum

Having collected the final laundry load, exercised and performed full sanitary services on Chardonnay, we moved on from our comfortable pitch … really lovely to be still for a couple of days.  We drove down a virtually single track road with loads of other motor homes … thankfully lots of passing places to a small but major fishing village called Henningsvaer.  Just pretty but we got to see some of the stockfish hanging to dry and loaded in a truck.  The mostly cod is dipped in seawater and then hung to dry for the summer.  Protected from seagulls by netting – perhaps I should wrap J in netting?  Apparently you can buy it as a snack, bash it first to get the skin off as well as cook with it, after more bashing!  I had thought is might be like the Portuguese salt cod that i was not overly keen on, but we will keep our eyes open to try it.

Thumb P1050180 1024

Thumb P1050182 1024

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We had intended to skip the viking museum – how much more can one take … but the reviews of the Borg Viking Museum were excellent.  Despite the entry fee of £25 (thank goodness J is a senior – has to have some benefits!), we really rated it.  They discovered the longest Chieftain’s long house in Scandinavia.  Excellent AV interactive with individual headsets and artefacts to explain the importance of this site.  Viking living made real in the long house by staff and a walk down to the viking ship, passing an axe throwing youth (Health and Safety has definitely gone mad in UK – real fires and axes).

Thumb P1050194 1024

Thumb P1050198 1024Thumb P1050204 1024

Thumb P1050206 1024

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Over night pitch on a side road, beside a little used football pitch and …. no other motorhomes … yet!

Thumb P1050209 1024

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Days 63 – 64: Overdue washing and onto the Loften Islands

63 – Saturday:  Cleaning …

Within an hour of leaving our fabulous viewpoint, we spotted a sign for fresh water and a chemical toilet … we actually get quite excited when all Chardonnay’s services are empty / full as required.  We also ran and Norked from here.  Then the frenzy of real activity started … laundry and cleaning Chardonnay inside …. and then, oh joy!…. we both showered.  And even better, we were able to re-fill our tank with drinking water and empty all the grey waste.

Drove for about an hour and half, leaving the main road to do a loop and find a lovely quiet picnic spot for our overnight stay.  The deal is that you are fine to park up and sleep in your vehicle, but you should not put out chairs etc as this is camping.  Yours truly, went into gypsy mode and strung up a washing line … had to get all this laundry dry somehow.  K had rigged up a zig zag line in the bathroom, but we risked a) being dripped on as we peed and b) being garrotted by the cord.

Lovely chat with Munchkin who has an amazing blue dress for her Leaver’ Ball at school and a hang over!

As it was mid summer’s eve and we know it is a big deal here, we stayed up and had a toast at midnight.  Earlier a young couple pulled in: he play acted at fishing and she took photos … you’d have thought they could have had a better time than that?!

Thumb P1050132 1024

View from the campsite

64 – Sunday:  Driving

Day 1 of week 10 since we set off.  Seems unbelievable really.  Cant understand why more people don’t do this?  Correction:  lots are doing it and they are ALL on the Norwegian Fjords route to or from Nordkapp.  Every third vehicle is a motorhome or caravan.  The friendly motorhomer’s greeting of a quick wave has become something more akin to a nervous twitch.

Today started with a run / Nork, bringing in the dry 🙂 washing and an attempt at a few running repairs.  We drove for about 4 and a half hours and after a couple of bridges and lots of tunnels (up to 6.6 km long), we arrived in the Lofoten Islands.  Pulled off the main road to find a quiet (goes without saying it is picturesque) spot, only to be joined by another motorhome … there are lots here; you just can’t get away from them!

Thumb P1050143 1024

Bridge to Lofoten Islands

Thumb P1050144 1024

Thumb P1050138 1024