922-924: Marvellous Metsovo & Meteora

922- Saturday 9th December 2017:  Metsovo and Fancy Bumping Into You Again! 

Ah yes – Metsovo – at the second attempt….. Narrowing roads approaching the town – instinct to park before the actual town – but a local shopkeeper said there was ample parking in the town centre? Ok, I gentled Jez down the hill along narrower streets – “Castelbellissimo”feelings – lots of people giving us directions…. cobbled street section – my stomach was in my underpants… into town centre and no hope of parking! K spotted while I reversed – and only way out was back up the same way – now my underpants were in my stomach (does that work?). Going well – and a massive coach appeared in our way – oh dear – underpants being waved out the window in surrender!  But the coach reversed and I gunned Jez (at 3 mph) back to the original ‘instinctive’ parking.  Underpants retrieved and safely back on my head (Blackadder?). The cunning plan was to have lunch in Jez and brave the throngs of folk downtown – it is Saturday….

Far too busy for us and touristy – cold walk – no coffee possibility as the restaurant were only interested in mega lunch bucks – and legged/Jezzed it out of Metsovo! 

Meteora (hilltop monasteries) was in our sights next – an hour away – chosen campsite was closed for repairs but another one within minutes…. On arrival, we met Chloe and Chris (previously met in Dubrovnik) – settled in and – drinkies pre-prandial in our van. Then – fantastic meal in local restaurant – coffee and nightcap….

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Metsovo:  weathly town under Ottoman rule as they kept the mountain pass open.  Known for wood carving and textiles … tourist prices, so we passed!

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A loose young puppy … God knows how big it’ll grow … played. 

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Our first view of the odd hills in Meteora.

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Always a good omen when a rainbow is over our destination.

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Another DRY?! night with Chloe and Chris!  My veal liver was AMAZING.  But portions are silly … we all took away doggy bags.

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We had been listening to Christmas Carols, so I was finally moved to get “Christmas in a Box’ out of the garage! 

923- Sunday 10th December 2017:  Aura in Met-eora

No ‘overhangs’ this am – we wouldn’t like to ‘hangover’ these cliffs towering above us….. fond ‘adieu’ to Chris and Chloe. They’re heading to Sicilia for the festive season…..

More ‘feckin’ bike problems – punctures….. As K says “F**k a***e b*m t*t” – we need a shyke bop, soon. Our host promptly offered to bring me tomorrow to his friend in the local bipesock – on his motorbike…. These people are amazing!  But our bike ride to the monasteries became a walk up and down.  No text will out-describe the photos – I know we use the ‘amazing’ word a lot – so we should!  Over to our par excellence K-ographer! 

Oscar has lots of doggy friends on site – one in season?  Ginger BrummieGreek puppies?  

As Mateora is a major Greek highlight, here’s loads of information around about Meteora and the monasteries so I will not cover it in detail …  in essence … natural sandstone towers were first used as a religious retreat by Barnabas in AD925, then from the 1300s monks started building monasteries – the first being Megalou Meteorou by St Anthanasios … who flew up to the pinnacle on the back of an eagle.  We mere mortals walked!  There were 24 monasteries / hermitages, but all but 6 are now ruins. It is thought that the locals were expert in rock climbing, but once the first man was up, they hauled everything else they needed up.   In the 1920’s stairs were cut into the rock to make them accessible.  Coaches passed the campsite in a slow but steady stream all day … it must be very unpleasant in the summer.  

For us, the scenery and feat of building the monasteries that we found so amazing (had to get one amazing in there!)

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Oscar … you’re ambitious!

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Part of Megalou Meteorou, the largest and oldest, which had a number of museums, a kitchen, beautifully frescoed church and an ossuary.

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924 – Monday 11th December:  Jobs in Met-eora

Monday morning came and at the appointed hour of 10:00 am, I brought the offending bike wheel and spare inner tube to our host for him to kindly take on via motorbike to his friend’s shop in town.  “No, he said” to me “you’re coming with me”. Now the last time I was on a motorbike was 50 years ago!  I got astride his Honda Cub – one hand clutching the wheel – and the other grasping his jacket – no crash helmet – and off we went at medium speed through the wiggly streets….. No need to slow at ‘Stop’ signs (he knows the roads – I comforted myself). I was definitely back in Sicilia! Was I wearing the same underpants as yesterday in Metsovo? (I do change them regularly once a month, I think…)   Digression here – 100 years ago, I worked with a Chartered Accountant – who once proudly told me “I have a bath regularly – every Saturday night whether I need one or not – with my wife!”.  For those Chartered Accountants reading this (1?) – I’m quite sure the profession has excellent ‘lavaggio’ practices – always subject to audit, of course…and in strict accordance with the FSA (Freshly Showered Abluthority)…  

Back on script – we arrived in no time at friend’s shop – who promptly diagnosed a wrong sized tyre (this is a brand new e-bike of stout German manufacture!) and immediately fitted a different size and new inner tube – all in 15 minutes and for only Euro15.  Our host has brought us water and coffee every morning too.  These people are amazing – we absolutely love Greece – roll on the next few months!!!  

Relaxing jobs day – laundry, engine checks and van cleaning and self cleaning – we do it every 5/6 days – and we’re accounting to ‘SAF’ (ShowerAnyFriday) Standards…..

We’ll be really sorry to leave this ‘kooky’ site, the folks here and Meteora.

919-921: The Start of Our Greek Odessy

919- Wednesday 6th December 2017: Off to Greece

We completed our services and took the short drive to Igoumentisa port. A long wait of 3 hours….  Some trucks reversing – all over the place (health and safety – but it all works in an Italian beautifully organised disorganised way – bellissimo!.  Where do they put them all?  Ah .. two levels.  Loaded last as first off, most vehicles going onto Patra … we turned around on top deck.  Lots of areas on board closed as not enough passengers … self service restaurant shut till 7.00 p.m. … K had bought a cold supper as we’d been told the food is expensive and not marvellous … so we sat in the cabin and ate that as a late lunch,  fortunately we did not need supper.  Would have been complicated anyway – we’d either have had to eat taking it in turns or leave Oscar alone in the cabin – as we know from the howls that another couple did!   Coffee EUR2.50 each – not paid that since Nice area!

Oscar pooped on the poop deck!  So proud!

Nanny nap, research on Greece, showers (hot and forceful, but didn’t drop the soap – just as well as no room to pick it up!) more wine — bed in stuffy room. 18 hour crossing……………. successfully completed.

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May not be a cruise ship despite the name … Cruise Olympia, but significantly better than the Helsinki-St Petersburgh ship. 

920- Thursday 7th December:  What an Amazing First Day

The same free-for-all disembarking.  Straight onto A2 motorway – brand new with EU money – that route or our destination would have been very wiggly … toll £5.30 for not very far … will need to check roads out – can we do non motorway?  Anyway, we are in Greece – my first time (and Oscar’s) but K was here 30 years ago…..

Dodani … holy oak tree – revered by frenzied priestess and priests, they slept on their floors and didn’t wash their feet!  The Romans chopped the tree down and built temples and an amphitheatre.  

Another nanny nap in the car park as sleep was not great on the Adriatic/Aegean Sea. Good ruins but we always think of Sicilia/Italia as the best – but we will see loads more in Greece.

Iaonnina was our first town destination – walls, lake, castle museums. Superb cheap lunch – yummy.

We drove in the afternoon up the hill to a viewpoint/official motorhome free parking overnight – spectacular views down over the lake…..

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Our first Roman amphitheatre in Greece.

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Originally a Greek site, rebuilt with lots of Roman Temples.

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The original Oak was cut down … the Oracle Priestess would receive slates with questions such as ‘Are my wife’s children mine?”  She would listen to the bottles suspended from the branches that magnified the rustle of leaves and pronounce her answer.  Not sure how she worked in winter when the leaves dropped. 

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… but people obviously still hope it will bring luck and chucked very low value coins in.

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Used to be another 10m on top and seat about 17,000 making it one of the largest in Greece.

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Another Oak waiting for the performance to start.

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J on role reversal … pulling every which way and cocking his leg.  We’re still working on J being the Boss!

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Our walk along the lake to the historic town of Iaonnina.

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Two mosques still in the old town castle, which was the base of Ali Pasha who essentially ruled a massive area as a fiefdom.  This one was the Aslan Pasha mosque 1611 and now municipal museum.  Next door was a Muslim seminary, where Ali Pasha attempted to rate his son’s mistress. For refusing the tyrant’s advances, she was bound, weighted and thrown into the lake with 17 of her companions.  He also executed a rebel in public by smashing his bones with a sledge hammer.  Nice chap!  A young Lord Byron visited Ali Pasha in 1809, Ali Pasha took rather a shine to Byron… sexual? … as he was taken with Byron’s small ears – a sign of high breeding!

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Inside the Alslan Pasha Mosque.

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Two dishes of the day … lamb stewed with potatoes (falling off the bone) and lamb with fresh tomatoes in a filo parcel served with a rocket, sun dried tom and balsamic salad … with 500cl of local regional wine … £22 with tip.  We’re so going to love these prices … means we can eat out more.

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Spot the snow!

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The wrought iron to the left of the mosque is Ali Pasha and his wife’s grave.  I’d hoped to see the Silverware Museum in one of the Castle’s building, but it shut earlier than advertised.  

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So still – an almost perfect reflection.

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Our night time view point … wonderful.

 

921- Friday 8th December:  Cycling Lake Pamvotidha

 We moved Jez down to the lake side and we cycled 26 km around the lake. Two packs of dogs chased us but they couldn’t work out where Oscar was (concealed in his Os-car).  He went very quiet at all the barking.

Monastery of Dhourahani – very smart and cared for … run as a vocational school for disadvantaged children.  The Churches have lots of paintings of saints, but are very dark.

The obligatory coffee en route…trays of meat and pots ready for the standard late Greek lunchtime (2-3:00 pm).  We’d have stopped as it looked good, but it was only 12.00 and not sure how long we’f be salivating.  We lunched in Ianonnina, more excellent value – and our first Moussaka.

Drove to Metsovo for night stay … very cold … checked weather – one app said snow overnight… risk averse …then drove an hour back down the mountainside … lake side pitch, not far from the monastery – our first ‘wild camping’ in Greece. After only 2 days, we have a good feeling for Greece – like we experienced in Italy. Roll on the next few months. Oscar likes it too – although he doesn’t know which country he’s in – he’s in HappyK9ville, always! 

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Our morning view of the lake … it’s been filled in by mist. 

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Such stillness.

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