Slow Road to Crete: Under and On Top!

Ice Cave

02/09/22

Expecting to be aching after yesterday’s gorge ladders etc, we were amazed we both felt fine.  Just slightly heavy legs.  I think taking it slow and carefully, and all those chocolate stops helped!  We had planned an easy day, just in case.  But the sun came out.  Should we change our plan and get up to the High Tatras?  We’ve been waiting for a sunny day to get a cablecar / funicular up to walk, but didn’t want to spend the money if we were just going to be in the clouds.  We nearly did sway, but I said we weren’t prepared for the mountains … we hadn’t bought ingredients for a picnic etc … so no.  Mountains when ill prepared are not a good idea.

I’d been looking at Atlas Obscura again … an Ice Cave (also mentioned by the TIC chap who had suggested the gorge ladder walk.  A derelict iron works with a huge blast furnace and another cave of argonite formed into amazing shapes.  Fortunately, we read that the ice cave was by guided tour and there was one at 9.30, early enough for it to still be cool to leave CO2 in the car.  What we hadn’t realised was that there was 2km walk uphill to the entrance.  Kerstin strode on ahead and purchased tickets.  When J and I arrived, she was ‘discussing’ whether we would make it on time.  Just as well we, did, as the next tour was not until 11.00.

We have done lots of caves and generally don’t bother now.  But never an ICE CAVE.  I had not realised ice caves were a thing.  Apparently Dodsinka Ice Cave is one of the best to visit.  Spring water flows in, and then freezes.  During summer, some partially melts but then re-freezes in lower caverns.  Again, a Slovak only speaking tour, but as we hung back an English speaking guide held up the rear and was able to give us some more information.  Some years ago, locals used to ice skate in one cavern.  In the winter, bats move in, as it is warmer in the cave than outside.  Reckon, they must have to clear the bat poop before opening up to visitors.

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A toboggan slope?

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Kerstin was on photo duty … we paid extra, so think K took about 100 pix!  She likes to get her money’s worth!! 

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The scant English info. 

The rest of the day did not go to plan.  We found the iron works, but stern looking guards told us to go away.  We think it was being worked on to turn it into a museum.  And we decided  against the 50 min extra drive to the aragonite cave … one cave a day (week, month, year?), is more than sufficient.  So we drove to a small lake we had seen on the drive down and had our picnic.  Then back to base camp via Decathlon (again).

 

The High Tatras – Extended

03/09/22

We extended our campsite stay for a further night a second time.  The weather was set fair and we were determined to get into the High Tatras mountains.  We were up and at ‘em early doors … with copious supplies of fodder and liquid.  We thought we would arrive nice and early at Vysoke Tatras, but so did everyone else.  Car parks full, so we parked on the road 1.5 km from the funicular.  An early indicator how popular (busy!) walking here is.  Return tickets purchased and we joined the throng in the funicular up the mountain side.  Yes, it was very busy, but the scenery was lovely.  We took it slow and a number of folk over took us.  One lady nearly had a serious accident as passed me … Kerstin was behind and saw the rock she trod on wobble … all I could see was windmill arms … so I instinctively grabbed one.   Didn’t even get a thank you!!!

I failed on navigation duty … missed a turn.  To be fair none of us had seen a path off.  Chatted to a lovely Czech couple who have a motorhome and get away as often as they can.  They recommended that we keep going up (down would have been harder on knees and we would have struggled descending over all the rocks and scree) to a cable car.  Then train from next town.  It was further than J has walked for a long time and when we reached the cable car, he was rewarded with a beer!  We bought tickets for the 3 of us and CO2 for the cable car and didn’t hang around as damp cold clouds were coming in.  What we hadn’t realised was that it was only cable car so far.  The next section was chair lift.  OMG, we’ve 2 dogs with us!  No problem, just lift them on.  So K and I grabbed a dog each and hung onto them tightly.  Only 2 people per chair so J followed with the back pack.  It’s obviously considered quite normal, as another dog was sat (with owners) in a chair going up.  Both CO2 quivered for a few mins once back on terra firma.  Another K9 adventure that we’d not planned.  Oops. We just caught a train to where the car was parked … so I attempted to buy train tickets online with the help of the lady sat next to me … managed to get one adult fare … all of EUR1 for a good 20 min trip.  

A great walk if busy.  If passing we would definitely stop around here again … and further east is supposed to be lovely.  But until this trip Slovakia had not really grabbed us.  There are only so many Austro Hungarian faded towns and castles one would want to visit.  Off to Romania tomorrow.

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 Managed to elbow a small child out of the way to get the view from the front of the funicular! 

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Hard to get pix without other walkers.

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Lots of rocks to clamber over.  Sadly CO2 had to be on the lead … I did let O off a few times towards the end when everyone was already off the mountain!

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Did they have porcelain up here???

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Mist coming in.

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Restoring a property in the mountains … kitchen base layer delivery!


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I had to strip a number of times as I’d expected it to be cold up in the hills … ended up just wearing my base layers, so effectively I was in my underwear!  

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Cable car – the easy bit.

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Difficult to grab a pic unhanded whilst clinging onto a dog. 

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Finally some Romania planning … all base layers on.  It was only 5C at 6.00 the other morning.  I’ve turned into a fair weather camper so we have booked an AirBnB in Brasov for 8 nights starting tomorrow!

 

 

Slow Road to Crete Bratislava and Around

Self Guided Bratislava

24/08/22

I AM the Tour Guide Extraordinaire!  Well with the help of Atlas Obscura and Maps.Me populated with bookmarks of what to see.  I dispensed with the umbrella or flag.  And I didn’t have to chase my tour group along or count heads.  There were only 2+2.  The +2 were on leads so had no choice but to follow.

I know it seems lazy to drive the 1.2 km to the bus stop from the campsite.  But we expected to be foot weary at the end of the day.  And that last km is always the killer.  Pay on bus.  CO2 half price.  Muzzled but actually forgot on return and no one blinked an eye.   All of EUR6 one way for an hour journey for the 5 of us.  I later googled what a Bristol to London day return is … £80 off-peak to £176 peak.  Kerstin was staggered.  It would have been crazy to drive.  And it was interesting watching the folk alight … various bus passes.  Some eligible for a discount.  Others no fee.  And we noticed the national genealogy traits of high cheek bones and pale skin.  Not that we are generalising, but we are!

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Muzzle (unnecessary) and wedged in!

When we alighted, we were unimpressed.  Architecture is a thing and it seemed all very Communist.  Blocks.  However, the old town with its shabby chic Austro Hungarian buildings was lovely.  Like a different world.  Worth a day trip, but not a weekend.  Unless you want to scrutinise all the museums in detail?

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First stop was the TV / Radio building.  Once voted one of the ugliest buildings in the world.  Being worked on and effectively sanitised.  Shame, as I liked the rawness of the rust.

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Great abseiling job.

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Largest city fountain and Freedom Square built to remember freedom from Communism … surrounded by (some high rise) buildings from the Communist area.  The fountain is the Linden flower – symbol of the Slavs.  Largest open city space.  Uninspired.

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An Atlas Obscura … Skater girls and a real post box.

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Camil the sewer worker … on a kerb.  Apparently responsible for a few damaged cars.

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The New Highway completely destroyed the old Jewish Quarter and the Fish Market.  I googled the UFO restaurant as a possibility for lunch but stupid money.

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View of the Danube, the UFO and the surrounding tower blocks from the castle.  We didn’t go in … as rebuilt relatively recently and CO2 unwelcome.

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Also from castle.  Check out those high rises … they are EVERYWHERE  And still being built.  Has no one read the erudite papers on high rises and mental health?

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Charmed by the shabby peeling Austro Hungarian architecture of the old town … but even MacD here.

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Town Hall … with …

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… a Bonaparte cannot ball still lodged.  Still amazes me how far east he got.

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Not a cocktail but a fresh fruit lemonade … yum.  We developed a taste for these.  Raspberry, forest fruits, citrus and even lavender.

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We (I) have misplaced (lost) J’s beard trimmer so J went for a head and chin chop.  K and I used our time usefully.  3 for the price of 2!

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The Blue Church.  Modern C19, but I liked.  Grammar school next door by same architect.

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Tour Guide – digital!

 

Nitra Nice But … Trnava Nice No But

25/08/22

Bit of a long drive to the furthest point Nitra and it was far too long a drive for what was there.

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Drove through several KM of what must be the largest central European logistics hub.  Impossible to get a pic of the scale of it.  We saw box pre fab new builds with flat roofs for the workers advertised for sale @ EUR starting 249 … property is NOT cheap here.

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K and J took a look at the small walled church and a few buildings (castle – small!).  I can’t remember what they said about it, so it can’t have been memorable … I didn’t go in.  We all had drinks and cake on a terrace listening the Radio Swiss Jazz … smooth easy listening which is now bookmarked on my radio app.  All agreed this was the best part of this town.

We moved onto Trvana.  I’d found an app.  Did I mentionI was tour guide extraordinaire!  A self guided walking tour.  Much improved once I realised I could play the text rather than read it.  Slightly dry humour in some comments, so good.  Trnava was the first Slovak free town and still is.  The Town Council had the foresight to build the walls wide to allow growing room, so they are still intact.  And interestingly made from brick as the right sort of soil was available locally … must have been a huge production as there are a huge number of bricks in this huge city wall. First and best university in Hungarian Empire.  Until Empress Marie Therese in about1770, had it moved by barge and road (lock stock and barrel – science labs, books etc) to Buda, her capital.  A new Uni was only established in the 1990s.  Now this was a town we could recommend for a weekend away. Very mellow with more shabby chic Austro Hungarian buildings, but sense that it was loved and lived in.

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Kertsin climbed the bell tower and suffered the bells ringing … J and I repaired for ice cream and a lemonade (for some of us!)

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Castel Cerveny and Modra

26/08.22

The Red Castle (although nothing red about it!) is a major tourist attraction (isn’t everywhere in the advertising?). K went in on a timed ticket … had to join a 75 min Slovak tour but was given an English paper with limited info.  She had to pay and extra Euro for this. And we’ve been aware that non Slovak speaking tours are few and far between and you pay extra.  In fact, not many non Slovak folk touring / exploring at all.

Whilst K toured, J and I walked and I climbed the mini tower for a view of the courtyard.  The Fuggers and Palfri family owners used the underground caverns as stores for their traded goods and copper from their mines … protected largely from the Ottomans by the castle fortifications.

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Lavender lemonade this time .. and cake!

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Castle Cerveny courtyard

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O with an unfeasible large stick.  Calf / shin basher.  

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Quite a complex.

And so onto Modra. Billed in the guide book as the home to the best red and white wines.  Hoped it was better than the supermarket Modra red I bought the other day that I was reluctant to even cook with!  We stopped outside Modra at a wine sign … had a tasting.  Nice whites @ EUR4/bottle.  Apparently the reds are rubbish … well that explains the supermarket trash.  Came away with 4 bottles for the 3 of us.  Chap also made and sold patisseries.  So K bought 4 cakes … for the one of her!

I looked at the Majolica Pottery.  Very predictable, so no purchase.  Would have liked to take pic of the 3 signs on the wall … each with a clock … London, Paris, Modra.  The fourth sign had had its clock removed  … Russia.  Does the Ukraine invasion mean Russia has lost it’s time?

Early supper in Modra was a mistake.  Modern gastro joint with over inflated prices … obviously the place to be seen!   Note to self … get the chap at the Tourist Office to write down his restaurant recommendations, so you can find it later!

Slow Road to Crete but Fast to Slovakia

 

Being Legal … Barely

 

19/08/22

 

We have had Jez in Crete with us since February.  Whilst this is (probably) illegal as we have Greek residency, and Greek law presumes that if you are avoiding road tax if you drive an overseas vehicle, this was a risk we were prepared to take.  Police are much less likely to check the credentials of  motorhome drivers than a car.  However, risks we were not prepared to take are:

a) Our insurance specifies a limit of 6 months in Europe.  And give our ex pat status I could only find one insurers for our UK registered van.

b) EU law used to be 6 months visit per country before you had to register/import the vehicle.  Since Brexit it is 6 months for the EU.  Grr!

 

We drove back arriving on 20th July and we have mostly stayed in Jez on woodlands Farm near the Aged P’s in Chichester.  I flew back on 28th July to fetch the car and camping kit, driving back with Gillian … Girls Road Trip.  J had 2 nights in Dublin to see family.  A quick 4 nights in the east country to see friend and collect a few items from the Devon house shed. 

 

But today we left Jez with Abacus Motorhomes in Andover.  They are an Adria dealer, service centre and motorhome sales and hire. Our insurers specify Gold standard, but given the £ooo’s of stock held here, they have accepted Abacus as our storers.  It works OK as they can pull Jez in for work whenever parts are in / they have time.  And at £65 per month, it is a lot more than we paid in Greece, but cheaper than most Gold storage.

 

We have largely emptied Jez, so our storage box at the Aged’s is full.  And the Greek car is also full.  Full of essentials we need to take back to Crete, a few want to take and we still managed to leave enough room for Kertstin, who will be joining us.  With roof box moved to the side and 3 x camping chairs wrapped in a tarp, we managed to fit most essentials in!

 

We had a last meal with the Aged P’s and Maddy & Jordan.

 

 

And we’re off

 

20/08/22

 

Ferry as used it coming across with the Greek car  – a lot cheaper than the Tunnel if you want a Flexi ticket.  With the ferry they will accommodate you on the next available 48hrs either side of your booking.  But never again.  Seemed to be at Dover for hours and then hours on the ferry.

 

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Don’t know why we had to have a yellow Pet sticker, it didn’t seem to make much difference as to where we were loaded! 

 

We arrived late in Belgium and erected the small new to us tent in the dusk.  Just as well I’m expert at erections!!!!  Grew up camping!  Supper was excellent at the Camping / leisure centre bar / resto.  Until we came to pay … no cards.  Cash only.  Opps, I had about EUR3 in coins only.  2km to the nearest ATM.  I was about to walk it … tired and the the post supper feeling of well being deserting me, when J said, I may have some Euros left from my trip to Dublin.  Yay … I went back and paid up, telling the bar man that my husband was hiding money from me!

 

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This looked so comfy and was! 


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Our diddy tent is not so diddy.


Put to Work!

 

21/08/22

 

We managed a cup of tea on arrival at Kerstin’s and a dog walk, before she dragged me out to work!  Why is it that she always seems to have a property project on the go?  We left Amsterdam early one summer to spend 2 weeks stripping wall paper and washing down when a tenant had left one house in an unbelievable condition.  This time, Kerstin has an inherited elderly relative’s apartment to clear.  She needs all the years of accumulated stuff sorted and boxed so the decorators can come in, before she can let it to students.  A wonderful old building with great features but stuffed to the gunwales.  She did treat us to supper though.

 

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And we’re off

 

22/08/22

 

Before leaving, we headed into a TUV, despite reducing the Greek car registration document to scant MBs, it would not upload to get the Unwelt Plakette.  So we headed off to a TUV (MOT test centre).  Nowadays it is rare to get good service, let alone something for free.  Got both here!  Happy.  The the pet store for dog food (Oscar had helped himself when we weren’t looking and what should have lasted for several days, was no more!) and a water bowl … left ours somewhere in Belgium … 1st casualty! 

 

We managed to cram Kerstin, her bedding, a rucksack AND her numerous food supplies … she’s a grazer … into the car, and even dropped off some plums at her work!.  Then decided to just keep going to Slovakia and the campsite north of Bratislava.  A long drive and only one misdemeanour form Oscar.  He found Kerstin’s special sausage, gifted by a neighbour,  and ate the end!  We left Germany in temperatures of 22C and it slowly dropped to 14C and started to rain.  We put the tents up in the dusk / dark … and drizzle.  It was late by the time we ate!  And it rained all night!  

 

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CO2 are like the princess and the pea  hardly any headroom.  And some of Kerstins food supplies!


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Camping Karpaty.  Home for 5 nights.


Bratislava:  Castle and Scrap

 

23/08/22

 

Easy morning.  K and I walked around the small lake.  Commenting on how lush and green it is … must be all this rain!  First muddy puddle I’ve seen since April!  No supplies sourced yet, so much was dog-eared (not dog aka Oscar this time) cup-a-soups with the promise of an afternoon snack!

 

Lots of stops planned, not all made.  And not by all of us, all the time.  First stop was Devin Castle.  Nicely told … No dogs.  J elected to snooze in the car with them.  It is a huge ruin on the Austrian border, overlooking the boats on the Danube.  Numerous owners until Bonaparte blew it up.

 

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 The Danube.


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Charred Roman loaf  might have gone down well with our meagre cup-a-soup!


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Views across to Austria.


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The most interesting part was the well. Yes, it did look deep, but you had no idea just how deep.  Until a bucket and tap were deployed.  You filled one with the other and tipped it into the well.  Waited.  And waited.  Waited some more until, finally … splash.  The acoustics amplified the sound of the splash too. The water separated into millions of droplets as it descended.   It was addictive, we and others had several go’s.


Long awaited … drinks and hotdogs (ice cream for me as I’m on me holidays!) at the base of the castle.  We tried to get close to the missile base but the road was blocked and it was too late and we didn’t have the energy for a 9km hike.  

 

So we moved onto Snot Park.  No, I misread this … it is Srot Park.  Kerstin and I had been discussing if we were born again (not the the Christian born again type!), what skill or talent we would like.  She would be someone who could construct long lasting beautiful and functional buildings.  I said I’d like to have vision.  To be able to create beautiful things that elicit an emotional reaction.  This park is by someone who has Vision.  He started it in 2019.  Animals and cartoon / fantasy characters made for bits of steel.  Loved it.  No one on the gate, just an honesty box.  And sadly one laminated photo of an owl, some b’stard had pinched.

 

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A slight detour on the way back home took in the VW factory car cable car.  No pix as I was driving and it was not in operation  Supper up the hill at the restaurant overlooking a small lake.  Traditional roasted lamb with small noodles and sauerkraut … actually delicious.  And the wine weren’t bad either!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

1589-1580: Stroll in Slovakia, Static Waterfall and Soulless Holloko

1589:  Castle and a Different Waterfall!

Sunday 12tJuly 2020

So long, rather than goodbye ,to Danny and Lisa … Danny has a new job to go to on 3rd August, via family in Italy, so they cannot linger any more.  But we will see them in the summer when we head up to Scotland.  We were a bit slower leaving the campsite: showers and I cooked a soup.

Up country towards a castle and basalt waterfall; Danny had reminded me of Atlasobscura – a great website of more unusual tourist attractions.  The rolling hills and mixed flora reminded us, at times, of the lush and green Britain, except for the number of sunflower fields.  

We parked up at Somosko Castle and paid our few HUFs to go in the castle and walk around the base to see the volcanic waterfall … much of this rock was used to make the castle – you can see the hexagonal extruded rock in walls and steps.

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Walking CO2, I passed a closed zoo of local animals  Danny and James had had boar stew the previous night  rather meet one on a plate that in the wild!

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Could be England – from a viewing platform.

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Somosko Castle: nothing special, but fab views.

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Basalt waterfall.

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We decided to stay in the car park.  They had kindly provided seating for us to have a pre-dinner drink soaking up the last rays of the sun. 

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Life is good.

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Can just make another castle on the distant peak.

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Corrie made a grass nest.

1590:  Accidental Slovakia Tourist!

Monday 13tJuly 2020

The castle is the border with Slovakia … no road access, but when I looked at maps.me, I realised we had walked into Slovakia. There was an info board showing a walk into the woods … so into Slovakia we went … no border controls or Covid questions!  Not what we’d planned to do, but this was one of those occasions where going with the flow really pays off.  And we’d got up and at ‘em, we were breakfasted and out the door by 8.50!  And that is another country we’ve visited!!!

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Scree from weathered basalt waterfall and surplus castle building materials.

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A really lovely walk with beeches and then holm oak.

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Oscar does like a stick.

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View off another platform of Somosko Castle.

After lunch we headed for our planned destination – Holloko.   A small village with a population of 380.  Unesco since 1987 to preserve the village of low and long white houses with verandas.  Quite a lot are owned by crafts people or wealthy from Budapest.  I looked at the crafts, but felt the prices were inflated.  We did stop for a snack and heard English spoken – another English lady and Irish husband.  He works for EuropCar in Budapest and had just driven back from the UK to avoid airports.  They agreed that Hunagry has a lot to offer and is a surprise. 

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There was another castle above it, which gave CO2 (and us!) another leg stretch.

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Holloko.

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Typical house with veranda.

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Very pretty but a bit soulless, and must be mobbed in summer, judging by the size of the car park.

We could have stayed in the large car park overnight, but headed off instead for Vac on the Danube Bend, north of Budapest.  Despite the walking we’d done, we set off for an evening preamble after our supper.  A lovely town with a good vibe.  James needed the toilet, so we HAD to stop for a drink or two!  So much for a day evening!!!!