Slow Road to Crete: Under and On Top!

Ice Cave

02/09/22

Expecting to be aching after yesterday’s gorge ladders etc, we were amazed we both felt fine.  Just slightly heavy legs.  I think taking it slow and carefully, and all those chocolate stops helped!  We had planned an easy day, just in case.  But the sun came out.  Should we change our plan and get up to the High Tatras?  We’ve been waiting for a sunny day to get a cablecar / funicular up to walk, but didn’t want to spend the money if we were just going to be in the clouds.  We nearly did sway, but I said we weren’t prepared for the mountains … we hadn’t bought ingredients for a picnic etc … so no.  Mountains when ill prepared are not a good idea.

I’d been looking at Atlas Obscura again … an Ice Cave (also mentioned by the TIC chap who had suggested the gorge ladder walk.  A derelict iron works with a huge blast furnace and another cave of argonite formed into amazing shapes.  Fortunately, we read that the ice cave was by guided tour and there was one at 9.30, early enough for it to still be cool to leave CO2 in the car.  What we hadn’t realised was that there was 2km walk uphill to the entrance.  Kerstin strode on ahead and purchased tickets.  When J and I arrived, she was ‘discussing’ whether we would make it on time.  Just as well we, did, as the next tour was not until 11.00.

We have done lots of caves and generally don’t bother now.  But never an ICE CAVE.  I had not realised ice caves were a thing.  Apparently Dodsinka Ice Cave is one of the best to visit.  Spring water flows in, and then freezes.  During summer, some partially melts but then re-freezes in lower caverns.  Again, a Slovak only speaking tour, but as we hung back an English speaking guide held up the rear and was able to give us some more information.  Some years ago, locals used to ice skate in one cavern.  In the winter, bats move in, as it is warmer in the cave than outside.  Reckon, they must have to clear the bat poop before opening up to visitors.

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A toboggan slope?

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Kerstin was on photo duty … we paid extra, so think K took about 100 pix!  She likes to get her money’s worth!! 

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The scant English info. 

The rest of the day did not go to plan.  We found the iron works, but stern looking guards told us to go away.  We think it was being worked on to turn it into a museum.  And we decided  against the 50 min extra drive to the aragonite cave … one cave a day (week, month, year?), is more than sufficient.  So we drove to a small lake we had seen on the drive down and had our picnic.  Then back to base camp via Decathlon (again).

 

The High Tatras – Extended

03/09/22

We extended our campsite stay for a further night a second time.  The weather was set fair and we were determined to get into the High Tatras mountains.  We were up and at ‘em early doors … with copious supplies of fodder and liquid.  We thought we would arrive nice and early at Vysoke Tatras, but so did everyone else.  Car parks full, so we parked on the road 1.5 km from the funicular.  An early indicator how popular (busy!) walking here is.  Return tickets purchased and we joined the throng in the funicular up the mountain side.  Yes, it was very busy, but the scenery was lovely.  We took it slow and a number of folk over took us.  One lady nearly had a serious accident as passed me … Kerstin was behind and saw the rock she trod on wobble … all I could see was windmill arms … so I instinctively grabbed one.   Didn’t even get a thank you!!!

I failed on navigation duty … missed a turn.  To be fair none of us had seen a path off.  Chatted to a lovely Czech couple who have a motorhome and get away as often as they can.  They recommended that we keep going up (down would have been harder on knees and we would have struggled descending over all the rocks and scree) to a cable car.  Then train from next town.  It was further than J has walked for a long time and when we reached the cable car, he was rewarded with a beer!  We bought tickets for the 3 of us and CO2 for the cable car and didn’t hang around as damp cold clouds were coming in.  What we hadn’t realised was that it was only cable car so far.  The next section was chair lift.  OMG, we’ve 2 dogs with us!  No problem, just lift them on.  So K and I grabbed a dog each and hung onto them tightly.  Only 2 people per chair so J followed with the back pack.  It’s obviously considered quite normal, as another dog was sat (with owners) in a chair going up.  Both CO2 quivered for a few mins once back on terra firma.  Another K9 adventure that we’d not planned.  Oops. We just caught a train to where the car was parked … so I attempted to buy train tickets online with the help of the lady sat next to me … managed to get one adult fare … all of EUR1 for a good 20 min trip.  

A great walk if busy.  If passing we would definitely stop around here again … and further east is supposed to be lovely.  But until this trip Slovakia had not really grabbed us.  There are only so many Austro Hungarian faded towns and castles one would want to visit.  Off to Romania tomorrow.

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 Managed to elbow a small child out of the way to get the view from the front of the funicular! 

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Hard to get pix without other walkers.

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Lots of rocks to clamber over.  Sadly CO2 had to be on the lead … I did let O off a few times towards the end when everyone was already off the mountain!

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Did they have porcelain up here???

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Mist coming in.

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Restoring a property in the mountains … kitchen base layer delivery!


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I had to strip a number of times as I’d expected it to be cold up in the hills … ended up just wearing my base layers, so effectively I was in my underwear!  

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Cable car – the easy bit.

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Difficult to grab a pic unhanded whilst clinging onto a dog. 

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Finally some Romania planning … all base layers on.  It was only 5C at 6.00 the other morning.  I’ve turned into a fair weather camper so we have booked an AirBnB in Brasov for 8 nights starting tomorrow!

 

 

Slow Road to Crete: Via Ferata Style

 
 

A Travelling and Shopping Day

30/08/22

So a leisurely start.  Owners had absconded and so had most the campers.  We pretty much had the place to ourselves so we spread all our stuff over their cafe terrace to dry, having cleaned mud off first!  Kerstin manage a swim in zipped off shorts!  She didn’t loose these!

We didn’t leave till nearly mid day and since Decathlon was on our route … Kerstin now has a new cosie, but will she get to use it?  I bought base layers and hats for James and I.  We have these, but in Crete … never thought we would experience 5C at 6.00 a.m. in August and super chilly, moist evenings!  This is our SUMMER holiday!  Also tried to find a new electric hob … one ring had a crack and now it had started shorting out.  Amazing it didn’t trip the switch in the Glamping site!  Oh silly me … what trip switch??  

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New base layer, fleece and hat.

Our first choice of campsite could only accommodate us for 2 nights as he was going for a rebuild of the facilities.  Was this a lucky escape?  How much in need of refurbishment were they?  So a few miles on we arrived at a HUGE site on the edge of the Paradise Park!!!  Ooh err Mrs!    The web site states it has room for 600 tents … festival sized perhaps.  Initially we were not over keen … large site with chalets and tokens required for showers etc.  But it had hot water for washing up and you never had to wait for the toilet or shower.

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We’d carefully left space in the middle of our pitch for the table and chairs … they only made it out once … far too cold!

Poddling over Chata Podlesok

31/08/22

My back etc have been playing up.  Sleeping on and air bed?  Possibly.  Lack of Pilates – more probably.  2 months worth of un-stretch!  Kerstin and I were up and at ‘em.  Morning dew so we threw down our pilates mats (dog bed and reformed tyre mats) on the road.  Until a flat bed went past us, then returned with a chap sat on the rear, hanging onto a skip … Bin day!  He held up 2 fingers, in a nice way (!), to indicate 2 more skips.  So we decamped to the less flat and slightly damp grass.  I then braved the shower … 1 token = 3 mins.  It was a generous 3 mins but I didn’t brave a hair wash. 

Lots of walking directly from the campsite.  A helpful chap at the tourist information enthusiastically gave us lots of info … in German.  Fortunately I had my personal translator on hand.  We set off for a castle / monastery … not sure which as we didn’t make it.  Decided to take the river route there.  Had been warned there were metal steps, but not quite what we were expecting.  After the vertical short section where I had to shove CO2 up, there then followed steps high over the river … proper via ferata style.  Our mountain goat Corrie shot across and 40 m around the bend.  To start the steps had a criss cross weave, barely OK for a game Oscar. Still a panic for me.   But then they were like parallel bits of wire … and  a chap coming the other way said the rest of the steps were like this. No good for Oscar.  In fact, he really should not have been up there at all.  He is not agile like Corrie.  J wasn’t happy either.  Not sure if I was more worried about O hurting himself or us trying to rescue him!   I knew this was one of those situations where I should have listened to me head … so an about turn and back to terra firma.  

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 Ice cream for late brekkie on way up.

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This section was just fine!

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CO2 were shoved up here.

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The solid (!) steps.  Would have been easier to swim.

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Yes, do come back!!!

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Let’s all go back.

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Beer and lemonade machine back near the campsite!   We used it.  Beer was so good, apparently, K and J had two.

Then K and drove to Poprad for supplies … Mahoosive Tesco – even had sofas in stock.  Food for next few days.  Then after several stores, we found a single electric hob .. that’s fine.  Only EUR16 and I’ve a Remoska with me for stews etc.

 

Proper Via Ferata … ain’t it?

01/09/22

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CO2 veers patient waiting for J to arrive with breakfast!

Helpful chap at the tourist information had told K about the Sucha Bella gorge.  Ladder, one at 15m, and lots of metal steps.  Not one for CO2.  K wanted to do it.  No pressure on me … but there was … said I’d come too.  Can’t let the German grist beat the British!  J (Irish neutrality) nobly elected to stay at base camp for doggy day care.  But first, so J had a trip off site (and also Kerstin had been told a0 we may not have to pay if we did the gorge in the afternoon and b) it would be quieter).  We went to Levoca for a morning coffee.  Harassed by a beggar on arrival and all seemed pretty dead so didnt think we would stay long … but then it came to life and the sun came out.

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 The Cage of Shame, Levoca. Theives, murders, cheats and even gossips would be locked up on market day.  People would throw things at them … stocks were our village sport!  Apparently spittle was also thrown … thankfully K is just throwing leaves at J!

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Levoca.

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K and I climbed the 216 steps of the tower.  Could see that the large square buildings had courtyards, some covered over.  But would give light to the interior rooms.

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J and I did the church tour.  In Slovak so given an English basic transcript … didn’t have to pay for this one.  The ticket last came to practise her English … explained that the town was part of a Pilgrim route … Camino do Santiago.  All because a lady called Elizabeth had a vision.  She was pregnant so could just have been a baby kick?!  A new church was built on the hill  During Communism less pilgrims but resurrected since Covid.   Other interesting church facts … All the main alter figures are carved from on piece of Linden wood.  The alter is the largest in the former Hungarian empire and has no nails.  A local sculptor was famous and one of his figures of the Madonna was the dace on an Slovak currency note.  Until the reformation, both Protestant and Catholics shared the church.

Once back at base camp, K and I loaded food, drink and chocolate and set off.  And yes, not fee and it was not too busy.  It is a 9km round trip.  At the top of the gorge one can rent mountain bikes, but we were pleased we hadn’t as the track was mostly loose scree.

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Easy peasey.

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Initially I didn’t like the rotten looking planks, but got a bit braver, unless up high.  Kerstin skipped across!

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I walked over some!

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If I could avoid balancing across, I walked the river bed.

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Old and new ladders.

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Which way?

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Series of ladders, the highest at 15m.  Fine on these as always 3 points of contact.

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Kerstin heading up.

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Lunch stop.  Followed by hocolate stops. 

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It was an altogether brilliant experience and I am so glad Kerstin suggested it.