135-137: Should be at school!

Posted on September 3, 2015 by Clunegapyears

135 Tuesday 1st Sept: Oldest and Finest …

No not wine! An Arboretum. After we ran and said farewell to Laraine and Steve (who actually thought we were having lie in – duh!), we set sail North. We stopped off at the Volcji Potok ( you should hear hear the sat nav rendition of this … much amused by Sally Sat Nav’s pronunciation generally – cesta vesta is one of our faves!). It is the ‘largest and most beautiful arboretum’ quote from our 2001 guide book!. Having been spoiled growing up near RHS Wisely, even K was much impressed.

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A French garden

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Two English gardens with lovely Acers just turning … don’t say Autumn is coming!!!

If this were Football, I’d be shouting England 2, France 1 and Italy and Germany ZERO!

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A rose garden, indigenous forest etc…. and all with a mountainous backdrop.

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A really pleasant couple of hours and ice cream at the summer house!

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Highlight? Most memorable? The donosaurs!!!!! Yes, seriously – scale and MOVING and BELLOWING dinos. I know they have to entertain the kids, but do they have to make them so life like …. even some eye rolling! K unnerved … and not just by what they were doing in an arboretum!

When we were in Ljubljana, the lovely TIC girl, when asked where she liked to go had indicated two place on the map and we set off for the first of these – Velika Planina, just north of Kamnik. This is the ‘great highlands area’. top height is 1666m. K had identified a campsite (not in all resources and we soon found out why … MINUS: very basic at EUR22 (K negotiated a 10% discount – it all helps) … one toilet in a shed (clean and it flushed!!!), amongst trees and interesting manoeuvres to get Chardonnay in! PLUS: it was right at the base of the of the cable car we would take tomorrow and really peaceful. Only one other (smaller) camper on the site …. interestingly a German married to a French lady, so K found herself badly switching languages.

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Pre dinner drinks on our woody camping.

136. Wednesday 2nd Sept: Shite Frite

Up and at ‘em again …. we caught the 9.00 am cable car. Sorry, you working folk (very conscious my former work colleagues are back dealing with new classes, seating plans and new directives from ‘em on high), but it felt early to us! The guide book states ‘ the six minute ride is not for the skittish”. It was steep. it was a long way. The cables looked very baggy. Now James likes to have his feet on terra ferma and he was slightly anxious / disconcerted about this ride.

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K happy to board the cable car, but J already shaking and it had not yet started its ascent!

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However, we then had a LONG chair lift ride, having been advised to get the double ‘get you up there’ package. J mostly eyes just and gripped the rail. Again this was a REALLY long ride, but it saved us a 45 min steep climb by foot.

Velkina Planina is where traditional diary farmers graze their cattle over summer. It is hight pasture land. Mostly above the tree line. The wooden round buildings were razed by the Germans, but rebuilt since. Many are holiday homes, but a lot were still inhabited by the herdsmen, who wear green felt pointy hats.

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We had not gone far before it was coffee stop. We sat outside one of the round huts … listening …. listening to …. virtually nothing. The odd cry of a bird of prey and the jangle of a cow bell. It is seriously one of the most peaceful places we have ever been. On top of the world!

We walked through a number of the wooden hutted hamlets and past numerous urbane cattle with their young. A really lovely place. Unfortunately J had started with an eye infection the night before and was not feeling his best. I put this down to why he keep his eyes shut and hands white knuckled on the return chair lift! As we arrive at the bottom of the lift, he less than calmly said he needed to find the toilet …. it had frightened the shite out of him! He really was not a happy bunny and has informed me that cable cars are doable at a push, but chair lifts NOOOO!

Sorry, lots of pix of the scenery and little wooden huts, but it was a very special place.

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We needed LPG so drove south and then back north a bit (I know I should have sorted it yesterday, nearer Ljubljana) and stopped off at Kamnik … mandatory daily ice-cream and eye drops for J. Isn’t amazing – we describe symptoms in English and they prescribe antibiotic drops for all off EUR5!

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Lot of benches had rolled up mags for people to relax and read … what a lovely idea.

Next Stop: Logarska Dolina- the second place the Ljubljana TIC girl had said was one of her favourites. We had picked up an AgriTourism book of camperstops at farms and K had confirmed our arrival for tonight by email with one. Sally Sat Nav initially tried to take us through a barrier that, even had it been open, a car would have struggled with. The she tried to take us up a near vertical track. The concept of farms giving up a space for motorhomes is fab, but not if totally inaccessible! We will try the book one more time and see if we just bummed out on our first choice. Fortunately, we had spied a campsite on the route up, just north of Luce and we retraced our steps. Adjacent to a bubbling brook, 2 other couples staying, small, clean and basic … perfect! And only EUR13.16 incl Tourist Tax :). When checking in, K asked Meine Hostess about short walks for the morrow as J only 86% … really helpful again and K had to resort to German; we are only miles from the Austrian border … and she suggested on with a food stop that specialises in local produce. Sounds fun, although most local produce seems to be buckwheat and sour milk or dumplings … not sure what we will get, but when in Rome!

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Using the bench with a roof as a laundry drying hut!

137 – Thursday 3rd Sept 15: Gourmet Gorging

Slow leisurely start; waiting for the rain to cease of course! K ran and did some Pilates; there was kindly a hard standing behind the picnic bench. And we both showered… always a good thing, occasionally.

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Parked up at the start of Romanov Kot, as recommended by Meine Hostess at the campsite. It is another glacial gorge, however, the valley bed is a sea of scree and rocks. Quite lunar or post bomb.

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One of the prettier beehives,

And the opening of the valley.

But the highlight of today was …. tarter – massive bowls of soup. This is the main course of the lunch – all typical of the region …. cottage cheese …

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Sdumpling, a meat in a ravioli thingy, three other sorts of roast meats, green beans with a pork cracking sprinkling and an onion dish. Did I mention the roast potatoes and salad sides? Pudding was a kind of apple and cinnamon strudel. I have not see J eat so much in ages and we still have a massive doggy bag for tomorrow. we will NOT be wanting supper tonight!

127-134 : Slovenia’s Higest and Best …

Posted on September 1, 2015 by Clunegapyears

127 – Monday 24.08.15: Skofja Loka, Mountain Pass and Bled

We – K, J and the redoubtable Kerstin headed out of Ljubljana to the north….. stopped at the beautiful medieval town of Skofja Loca – really helpful lady at the local Post Office – many photos and a nice walk. Also really helpful lady at the Tourist Info, who suggested we leave Chardonnay in her parking and recommended a mountain drive onward off the main route to Bled. Do you sense we like the Slovenians?

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Our Lunch Stop: very easy, as everything you need is on board.

Thence we pointed the van towards Bled – a lakeside town that promised to be a bit like Cumbria. It is – Like Cumbria on an August Bank Holiday – tens of thousands of people and their cars – all looking for the not too many parking spaces. Camping Bled was our destination – home to 750 folk in the (now) high season – we thought there were more than that…. we found our pitch and KX2 headed out to walk in the rain to the lake… J offered to babysit the van and push out some Zzzzzzs – quite successfully of course. The campsite was overcrowded and in the morning, there was no hot water for showers – which drew a strong complaint from K1 on our departure. Not that the staff cared, but K got her revenge with a poor review online – that felt good! Bled is very cute but not the campsite…

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K2 shared a Bled cake, which J missed out on. Rather like a vanilla slice, but a little stodgier. I generously allowed Kerstin to eat most of it, and this was after she had consumed a panini!

128 – Tuesday 25.08.15: Vingar Gorge and Villach

We fled Bled and drove the hairpin road to Vinegar Gorge – found parking and started the 30 minute walk to the end of the Gorge – and a waterfall – waterfall number 5,000 in Slovenia? The UK Health and Safety Executive would condemn the walkways and little bridges and empty the Gorge. The obligatory coffees and ice cream at the cafe near waterfall….. We did well arriving early as the walkways were narrow and coach loads were arriving as we were leaving.

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As we were early, the mist was just rising off the water.

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The long boardwalk along the gorge; built in late 1800s with difficulty.

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Waterfall at the end, of course!

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Hundreds of cairns and some were really creative.

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Not posted up any funny signs for a while …. this should actually had read ‘pod slap’, but some wag had doctored it.

Kerstin was booked on a train back to Germany from Villach in Austria – so naturally, we drove her to the station – passing through Slovenia, Italy and Austria – back through Italy and into Slovenia in one afternoon!

Found a lovely campsite – not crowded – and with hot water – at Kamne near Doverj! And fast wifi 🙂 Relaxing BBQ and slept dreaming of the jobs on the AM horizon. Zzzzzzs…..

129 – Wednesday 26.08.15: Triglav National Park and jobs

Jobs and more jobs: K scrubbed (up well !), polished and spat (!) and paid some bills – J hoovered (hovered ?) and variously tried to look busy… We did not move off the site – no time to! We have loved being with family and friends for the last month, but we seriously needed some catch up time, so decided to stay put for 3 nights in total.

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View from the campsite

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Our Pitch for 3 nights. Chinese laundry services offered!

130 – Thursday 27.08.15: Jobs and bus into Kranjska Gora

K and J ran – to whet the appetite for more jobs (?) – very hilly route some 2 miles – or 3 ‘kin-ometers! Afternoon – a bus into nearby Kranska Gora – a ski resort. Nothing very much – but a peanut sized glass of wine whilst awaiting the bus back to Kamne. Bought fodder for a BBQ – K found some good value trousers in Intersport!

131 – Friday 28.08.15: Kobarid and to Bohinjska Lake AND punctured a hole!

We contemplated the 49 hairpin bend pass to go south, but on the advice of the campsite receptionist, who spoke 7 languages and well, we re-routed … back into Italy and then down back into Slovenia.

Interesting border crossing just above a lake: a derelict fort with amazing views on the Italian side and a monument and castle on the Slovenian side. We did encounter hairpins, but thankfully not 49 of them!

The Italian Side:

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The Slovenian Side:

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We stopped off at Kobarid. We struggled to find a parking for Chardonnay, so we pulled into a business car park and J went to ask if we could park. Initially the chap said no and then took pity on us and gave us an hour. This was time enough to visit the WW1 Soca Valley battles between Austro Hungary (incl. Slovenia) and Italy. We had no idea just how many young men died and were maimed in these battles. It came across strongly that the Italians were ill disciplined and mis-managed … surprised?

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After a quick ice cream…. one has to have one’s daily quota!, we drove Chard up a very steep (and more hairpins) hill to an Italian memorial to the dead. They moved the bones of about 7000 soldiers here and stuck a church on top. Mussolini opened it.

Again, we were given really helpful advice by the staff in the museum. K had read about a Historic Walk around the town, but was told that as we only had limited time in Kobarid, we should focus on the waterfall … haven’t we seen enough? However, parked and walked to the Slap (honest, it’s Slovenian for waterfall). The final corner was on another boardwalk. If we thought Vinegar Gorge was a H&S issue …. it was nothing by comparison. Rotting and slippery boards with not hand rail. J declined walking this bit and relied on K to take the closer pix!

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Postscript – took a wrong turn in a tiny village and a complicated reversing manoevre was required – K driving and J directing from the roadway, K was trusting his every instruction! … J was watching for our overhanging bikes – but signally failed to spot the edge of an overhanging roof! Result – a gash in the rear side panel of Chardonnay!!! Profuse apologies to lady owner of said roof…. J’s pride seriously deflated…

On to Bohinj campsite and immediate Gaffa tape repairs – now we need to find a motorhome repair shop…

Parked up next to another British motorhome – Laraine and Stephen …. swapping stories.

132 – Saturday 29.08.15: Bike, climb and Cable Car

After a good nights rest (J dreaming of van gashes) – K suggested a bike ride, walk – and a visit to Slovenia Vodafall number 5001 ! (Voda is water in Slovene). 12+ ‘kin-omters each way and bear in mind the bikes nor our bike legs have seen any action for a long time. Mostly hilly – bike walking / pushing was introduced to conserve legs… Locked up bikes and climbed about 2000 steps up to a picnic lunch at vodafall and mostly downhill on the way back.

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Stopped of at the Vogel cable car – really steep and very fast, up to the top of the mountain. Views were amazing. We could have done a hike up here across the high pastures and peaks, but strangely J was reluctant.

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Ice cream stop – and one of those charming moments to wonder at… the rock face behind the restaurant was sheer – up to 100 feet (?). A boy of 7 or 8 started to climb up the face – belayed by his instructor – with anxious parents watching… he clung to the cliff, using his hands to find tiny cracks to inch himself upwards – we just had so stay and watch with bated breath. He reached the top to applause from all the diners below – and then swiftly abseiled down to terra firma – a lovely incident.

We really liked Bohinj – much more than the famous, over crowded and slightly twee Bled.

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Legend: The Stag looks after the area, but was shot. It is invincible, but no longer shows itself to man

133 – Sunday 30.08.15: Through Bled to Radovljica and bees!

We finally pushed ourselves into doing a run. It was a lovely route along the river that feeds Bohinj Lake, but we both struggled to put in any distance.

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Can you spot that man at speed? Another beautiful place to run.

Packed up and headed back to Ljubljana.

Our journey avoided hairpins; think we have had our fill for a day or two, but we drove through Bled and as it was not raining we took some pix on the move. Being the last day of the summer holidays, the traffic was piling into Bled – we would never have been able to park had we wanted to!

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We stopped off at Radovljica. K had read that there was one of the most interesting museums in Slovenia here … all about bees and bee keeping. Bee keeping is really important in Slovenia (we were sold honey on our first campsite, see honey and honey liqueurs sold everywhere as well as loads of brightly coloured hives. We learnt a lot and again, the lovely museum receptionist came and put the bee film in English on for us. At only EUR3 each, this was definitely worth a stop off. We are now bee experts … just ask us a question!

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A typical bee hive wagon (modern look like the new parcel collection boxes)

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This is actually a beehive!

The town was Medieval and very pretty with Slovenia’s oldest bit of a moat. Seemed a shame to leave it, so we found a restaurant with a terrace at the back over looking the valley and views to the Triglav mountain (Slovenia’s highest) and had lunch … would have been a shame not to! Don’t we look relaxed!

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Drove back to the Ljubljana CamperStop that we used with Kerstin about a week ago. Wifi around the restaurant so several glasses of white and J followed his Dublin Gaelic football team on the laptop. Supper in the restaurant (I know – we are on a budget, and two meals out in the same day!!!), but the bill was all of EUR23 for the afternoon glasses of wine and the meal …. the over night would have cost EUR10 otherwise … seemed silly not to!

134 – Monday 31.08.15: Ljubljana and Chardonnay Jobs

Having realised how rubbish our run yesterday was, we were up and at ‘em … and K actually ran little further than J – RESULT! Only just over 2 miles, but hey, small steps! Shower and breaky and off. Mein Host had kindly told K and indicated the route on a map to a proper motorhome repair place and thence we went. We were warned that they were extremely busy … earliest we could be booked in is 16th Sept and they will probably need Chardonnay for 3 days and the cost will be in the region of EUR400. Cripes! On a mission to make sure Chardonnay is fully functioning, we then took her to the Fiat garage and booked a service. Apparently at 40,000 KM, which we are at, we need filters etc changed … the bill will be a minimum of EUR400! Is EUR400 the standard quote for overseas motorhomes??? Given K just paid £400 for her Merc to be serviced (not even at Merc) Euros sounds much better and we hope the labour rates are cheaper.

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Drove via a supermarked and stocked up – food and booze for at least 3 days, and back to our now ver familiar CamperStop. As we pulled in … Laraine and Stephen from Bohinj were there …. lovely to see them again. Loads in common. Had the EUR8.50 menu with them (soup, salad and a meat dish – yummy and it mean we don’t pay for the pitch!)

120- 126 : Wonders of the World

Posted on August 30, 2015 by Clunegapyears

In the last week, we have seen so many magnificent sights, they are the New Wonders of the World – according to us!

120 – Monday: Wonder 1 – Leaning Tower of Pisa

Having arrived at a campsite the night before we continued with housekeeping … cleaning and washing. After lunch we wandered into Pisa and found some repair equipment, such as glue and screws. We had plenty of time before collecting Maddy from the airport to have a wander. I had been to Pisa a couple of times before and believed there was not much there other than the Square of Miracles with the Duomo, Basilica and Leaning Tower (Campanille). However, we discovered some lovely piazzas and arcades of shops.

J had the brainwave to get the bus to the airport rather than disturb / pack up Chardonnay. So EUR2 each and a short ride to the airport … having watched a man go apoplectic as he missed his airport transfer and had to catch the public bus … the air was blue … shame as he was with his young son. Plenty of time at the airport and not driving, so we had a couple of glasses to pass the time!

My Munchkin arrived :). Bus back into the centre and we bought timed tickets to go up the Leaning Tower. We wandered around the cloisters that had been badly damaged and saw statues and some of the restored frescos and had supper.

I scaled the Tower about 28 years ago with my father. It had then been shut to tourists and only reopened in 2001 after inserting a concrete plinth underneath to correct the lean slightly and prevent further lean. As you look at it, it really is amazing that it does not collapse. Incredibly, it started leaning after they constructed the third story and they kept building! The circular stairs hug the wall and you can sense the angle of lean as you climb. They also get narrower and have more wear to the tread. Climbing is not for the faint hearted or unfit. At the top, the narrow walkway is all of about 90 cm wide. Now there is a very high fence, but there was not when I climbed up all those years ago. I can still remember moving around the walkway with my back pressed to the tower thinking that this really is not safe! Some super views.

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Other people taking Instagram pix

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Maddy doing an Instagram pic!

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Katherine doing an Instagram pic!

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James doing an Instagram pic; James style! … if only he had an account!

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Amazing views

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James declined the climb up and rested, until Maddy poured water on him …

121 – Tuesday: Pick up in Padua

We drove to Padua to pick up Kerstin who had arrived by train from Germany a couple of days before. Having set Sally Sat Nav for her hotel near the station, we were guided into the tram lines and one way systems …. a slight concern, but Kerstin was on the look out for us. So a quick traffic halt as we bundled her, and her back pack on board.

We drove to a campsite on the Branta Riviera and had a BBQ.

122 – Wednesday: Villa Pisani and onto Venice

The main reason for staying on the Branta Riviera was to be near Venice, our destination for the next evening. However, the guide book had bigged it up. Accessible from the Venice Lido, the wealthy merchants has sailed up the river and built numerous villas along its banks. Some were small holding and some designed to be ostentatious to impress. Boat rides along the river were available, but at EUR65 PP, this was a NO.

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Villa Pisani is billed as the most impressive and open to the public for all of EUR10pp. As it happened, no discount for J’s great age, but Kerstin had a 25% discount for being a Professor – much delight. Pisani had been partly redecorated under Napoleon and Hitler and Mussolini had their first meeting here. However, it lacked a cohesive charm and was very soul-less – guess we have been much spoilt by the National Trust. It was, however, perfect for such a morning of heavy rain. Kerstin and I had a coffee and met an English couple, who had hired a boat from which to do Venice; they had even been able to sail part way up the Grand Canal.

After lunch in the carpark we set off for Venice. Whilst Sally had been programmed to avoid toll roads, i had omitted to include ferry crossings. With her destination set for a campsite on the spit of land the other side of Venice, she guided us along a long bridge and INTO Venice to the port. The crossing would have cost EUR56, but Sally advised us that re-routing along terra firma was only an hour and Maddy advised us that she does not like boats. So we turned back along the long bridge and headed to the spit. It actually took about 2 hours as the traffic was horrendous. I was later informed that it was a major change over day for all the holiday villages that inhabit the area. Slightly concerned that the campsite I had ear marked would prove to be similar to the ones we were passing, we were delighted that we had a large pitch and it was quiet. The receptionist was extremely helpful and sold us the ferry tickets and we were able to BBQ 🙂

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Our Pitch for two nights.

123 – Thursday: Wonder 2 – Venice

A short walk to the ferry port (the main reason for picking this campsite) and a 40 min ride to near St Mark’s Square. Despite being early, there were already massive queues to get into the Duomo. Venice is much larger than most people realise … 122 islands, canals and waterways everywhere with small arched bridges. We twisted and turned the narrow lanes to reach the Rialto Bridge, which was partly under scaffolding and busy. A rip off coffee and dry bun (what do you expect!) and we wandered N to some of the quieter streets. Our ferry ticket was valid for 24 hours on all the public ferries, so we hopped onto the Number 41, which took us around the main island complex. At the end of this line, we caught the Number 1, which took us all the way up the Grand Canal. A real treat and the guide book earned its weight as it explained all the buildings as we passed them. We selected a restaurant for lunch with aircon and it was reasonable value. Maddy got her pizza in Venice!

We wandered some more, but by now it was getting extremely busy and uncomfortable. We caught the ferry to Murano, which is where the glass making was moved to in the 15th Century. A very different feel to it; more residential. Had a coffee and gasped at the prices of the glasswares. Managed to catch a boat directly to where we wanted via two other major Venice islands.

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As we had an early start the next day, K went to pay … but the cash desk (and card reader) had officially closed :(. Oops – we really needed to be on our way as soon as the gates opened at 7.00 a.m. in the morning. Fortunately, the lovely girl on reception said she could process the payment with cash and would leave her boss, who opens up, a note that we had paid. Service and with a smile. 🙂

124 – Friday: An early start and into Wonder 3: Postojna Caves

We packed up efficiently, of course and drove to Venice airport. The traffic at 7.00 was, needless to say, very quiet. James and Kerstin dropped Maddy and I at the airport and went off to have a coffee. I received a text from Kerstin that James was also having TWO croissant! They are full of air, aren’t they?!? Maddy was already checked in, but as we have no printer, we thought we would have to queue, but as she had no luggage to check in, it was the fast line and all really quick. Full marks to Monarch airlines …. the flight and a pre-assigned seat was all of £42. Maddy and I also decided to have a drink and oozed around the airport for a bit. A hug and K watched M disappear again until October half term … A text to James, and he and Kerstin came and picked up K within 5 mins.

Kerstin only had till Tuesday afternoon before she returned to Germany and she had a shopping list of destinations. So we set Sally Sat Nav for the 1st destination on her bucket list – Postojna Caves. We realised the guide book had not over egged it when we saw the size of the FULL car parks and the size of the complex. They tried to sell tickets for extra museums and exhibitions, but we settled for the caves and Predjama Castle. We even had a timed ticket, so we had an obligatory ice cream and then Kerstin and I investigated the mill, which was actually pretty basic. But what was of more interest to most visitors were the dog kennels housed inside!

We presented ourselves at the cave entrance at the allotted time, along with half the population of natives and visitors to Slovenia. It was EFFICIENT. You scanned your ticket and stood by the sign with your language. Then as a body, you moved forward to the train with the language guide. We boarded the train. It rattled though the caves for about 4 km – you had to mind your limbs and head as in parts, the rock had been carved out just to accommodate the minimum that was needed! We all experienced a slight concern …. the train was so fast, we barely had a retina impression of the stalactites and stalagmites … a blur. However, the train stopped, we alighted and we had a further 1.7 km of walking through the caves. Over the years, we had all done a lot of caves in lots of countries, but these, we agreed, were the seriously the MOST AMAZING CAVES WE HAVE EVER SEEN. There was cavern after cavern of varying formations: the colour depending sometimes on the soil and mineral deposits above. We saw golden, reddish and pure white drip stones. Before the electric train, diesel was used and the formations are stained black. There is a Russian Bridge, built by POW in 1916. The final cavern is used as a concert hall and can seat 10,000 people – must be amazing. Here, there are also tanks that housed two Proteus anguinus – a form of salamander only about 8” long. These are known as ‘human fish’ and found only in some of this region’s (Karst area) caves. For the animal lovers … the Human Fish is blind, only lives in water in caves, can go 12 years without food, but still manage to reproduce! Where do they find the energy???

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I think Kerstin would have been up for doing the castle in the same afternoon, but J and I vetoed this and headed for Pivka Jama campsite. Very wooded, over the top of another cave … the area is riddled! A BBQ, which included a strange dessert! A local had wandered around selling his honey (beekeeping is a really big thing), which we bought. On the embers of the BBQ, we made a foil plate and toasted pine nuts. To this we added slithers of local cheese and just as it was melting, added honey. Delicious – TY James for not consuming … more for Kerstin and I.

125 – Saturday: Wonder 4: Predjama Castle

In the morning Kerstin went down the Pikva Cave and complained about the number of stairs she had to encounter. K and J unimpressed as we had gone for a run / slog. She did come back with the information that a lot of the caves are pretty much connected. We stuck camp and headed for Predjama Castle.

Perched up a rock face / half cave and half castle. It is a seriously dramatic location. Various owners, but the most notable by far was Erazem Lueger. He was a C15 Robin Hood type who robbed the rich to feed the poor. He was under siege in the castle by the Austrians, using the secret passages out the back of the caves to carry on his daring exploits. He was so brazen that he sent fresh cherries, which had not yet ripened in this valley, and roasted OX etc, down to his attackers. He developed a mystical status. However, he had an ignoble downfall – literally! The weakest point in the castle was the toilet and the Austrian’s bribed a servant to alert them to when Erazum ‘went’ and the blasted him. What an earth shattering experience!

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Models of the Human Fish that you could buy … no prizes for guesses what we decided they looked like!!!

We lunched in the car park and people watched … car park manoevres and a group of ageing scouts (average age 60) who persisted in peeing in one particular spot in the car park!

Slovenia is NOT big; it is the size of Wales, so it was a shortish hop onto Ljubljana. We had identified a CamperStop just the the east of the city, which cost EUR10 compared to 30+ on the city campsite. We were not sure what to expect, but it was a real find. It is restaurant with a motorhome parking; unusually with toilet, shower and full services AND free if you eat in the restaurant. Mein Host, yes his German is better than his English, is obviously an industrious sort. The place is immaculate and he keeps chicken, pigmy pigs and goats, offers a bakery service for the morning and loaned me a map of campsites to photograph. A cheeky chappy waiter helped us perfect and judge our versions of HVALA – thank you.

126 – Sunday: Ljubljana – Not a Capital City

Mein Host sells bus tickets and dispenses city maps … the CamperStop is at the end of the bus line. We caught an early bus in – 8.30!!!! Must be the Kerstin influence, as this is far too early for J and I!

Ljubljana is not like other capitals. Slovenia only became independent in1991. It has a young feel as it is home to the main University, and since it is free to students, most young people have degrees and doctorates. Unfortunately, since the Slovenia recession, many are unemployed. It does have an intimate feel – I suppose due to its small size; certainly Bristol is very large and sprawling by comparison. James was tour guide with a slight detour to see the Sunday Antiques market and several attempts to see the saint’s corpse in the church (yes, really, this was how it was described in the guidebook, but it was actually very disappointing – wax face and hands, nothing like the real C15 saint’s corpse in Lucca) … until … he relinquished all responsibility as we were handed a leaflet for a free walking tour … due to start in 10 minutes. No brainer. As we have found before, these walking tours really hep to give a sense of place and time and tell you so many snippets that the guide books omit. Well worth the tip one gives.

The Tourist Information for Slovenia proved a real gem … with a little pressing, the young girl found loads of leaflets and marked interesting places, not on the main tourist trail on a map for us.

We lunched and Kerstin wandered up to the library to see the reading room, but like the whole of Ljubljana, it was small …. nice story, that during WW2, it had just been built and the local populace did not want the Germans to use the building, so they hand carted several thousand books from the old libraries. Sadly, many of these were later lost when the building was bombed.

We walked up to the castle, via a wine booth. Kerstin is SUCH A BAD influence, she enticed us to buy a bottle of red to drink whilst we imbibed the views from the castle. Bless, the vendor even de-corked it for us! We did not make it into the castle, but enjoyed the views.

We caught the cable car back down and back on the bus. Supper in the restaurant … Kerstin and I shared a pork rib dish and then helped J out with his Wiener Schnitzel … we still had a doggy bag!

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Slovenia is still 80% Catholic, despite Communist rule (Tito) and a nun was dispensing food and checking he was alive …

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We first saw a bridge of love locks in Helsinki. Wonder what happens when the relationship breaks up … how many still have keys with which to remove them?

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The triple bridge at the heart of the centre.

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Both with wooden bikes!

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K dispensing coffee …

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K dispensing wine into the coffee cups…

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From the return bus … a fairly typical hay drying rack

Days 118 – 119: Hills and onto Pisa

Posted on August 17, 2015 by Clunegapyears

118 – Saturday 15.08: High on Hills

Some of our Clune Reunion group were departing today, so our numbers were somewhat depleted and they missed one of the best days out.

A slight delay as the coach had a flat and the driver had to fetch a different coach.

Relaxing at the hotel until the coach arrived

Our first stop was San Gimignano where we had free time to wander and have a coffee (wine in J’s case … the local Chianti was begging to be tasted!). The town has about 11 remaining towers and the view on the approach was stunning. Lovely mellow stone and squares. Views from every side. As it was the Feast of the Assumption, it was brimming with people and cars trying to park … again we will come back out of season.

Distinctive towers of San Gimignano

Views … and James

Views … and Katherine

Typical square … mellow stone

We then boarded the coach to go to a Chianti organic winery for lunch. We were sort of wondering why leave San Gimignano, as it was so pretty … until we got to the winery. The view looking back to San Gimignano from the luncheon terrace …

View back to San Gimignano. The landscape all around the hill towns was what people think of for Tuscany … small hills, farm houses atop with patchwork fields and cypress trees.

Cool terrace for lunch with regular sprayed mist to cool us. We saw the white cattle our slithers of succulent beef came from and drank the local wine.

After lunch we drove to Volterra, another hill town. Our guide explained about the Etruscans and we touched an upturned road sign cut in half from 2BC. The pix can do the talking.

The Church with Florentine shields, as Volterra was captured after a bloody battle.

Shell fossils in the walkways dating back goodness knows how many years.

The Etruscan Gate, which was supposed to be destroyed by the Germans to halt the advancing Allies. The towns folk pleaded to save it. The mainly old, women and children were given 24 hours to fill it with stones and rocks … they did.

Check out the rain capes and ponchos … the odd heavy shower.

Our smaller group as some more had left for the airport after lunch. Again superb views all around.

Views! Spot the chap airing himself!

More views… we noticed the fields were a lot more parched here compared to the valley plains of Lucca to Florence.

Being the Feast Day, there was a Medieval precession … we just caught it.

Volterra is known for its alabaster … apparently it is soft compared to marble and can be carved using wood working tools. It just glowed when back lit. A few of the windows in the Church had been filled with the opaque marble, which glowed and still let in some light.

We were running late back to the hotel for supper and delayed further as the Carabinieri decided to pull our driver over. Thankfully, we all had the sense not to whip out cameras thus antagonising the policemen and the driver was super calm. After 10 minutes of checking the drivers papers … incident free in 30 years of driving professionally we were allowed on our way. Ironically, our guide had just explained about Italian driving licences and the points system.

Back at the hotel and our last 4 course meal. Cake for David, whose birthday was tomorrow.

119 – Sunday 16.08: Back into Chardonnay … Home

We were the last of the Clune Reunion to leave and it was very strange not constantly bumping into family as we moved around the hotel. It is an amazing and generous gift Michael has given us all. Creating wonderful memories.

We collected Chardonnay and checked out. The staff were most helpful and checked that the big supermarket was open and gave us directions.

The iperCoop was overflowing with people. It was like they had emptied their cupboards yesterday with the Feast Day and needed to replenish. J stayed in Chard and did some unpacking. K braved the masses and food and booze shopped. Mindful of the volume and rich food we have been consuming, K set up the slow cooker with soya and dried veg for a bolognese!

Sally Sat Nav set for Pisa, just over an hour away. Whilst we usually shun campsites unless we have company, we were so weary after the week of festivities that we decided to set up camp for the two nights … Maddy joins us 🙂 on Monday evening. we erected Maddy’s tent, did laundry and had a quick swim. We were NOT late to bed!

Days 114 – 117: Pistols at dawn if you don’t eat and be merry!

Posted on August 16, 2015 by Clunegapyears

114 – Tuesday 11.08: Pistoia … third time lucky

A ‘free time’ day. Having not successfully visited Pistoia town centre despite having stayed Saturday night there, we caught the train to see the main square. It was worth it on 3 counts:

Did some shopping including an Italy map book. We figured that since we were planing to spend some months in Italy, the Europe map book has insufficient detail. (We have also downloaded Italian language podcasts, as we really ought to get to know a few basics other than the few phrases J can remember from 100’s of years ago and K’s well used and successful phrase which buys stamps for postcards for England.)
Found the square which was very pretty
Had an amazing lunch in a slow food restaurant… K’s was very fresh tasting … the slow food meant we consumed an extra bottle of white!

K’s Tuscanny Soup! The word soup is used very loosely. Fresh salads with tuna and salsa verde. Yum.

Approaching our second bottle of white 🙂

Pistoia Basilica

At dinner tonight we celebrated Amelia’s 70th AND Tom presented his book on the Clune ancestry. He has put a huge amount of work into researching and writing up, within the context of the Irish history. He now has a hit list of family who had not passed him information BEFORE he went to print. Top of the list was James, followed by Amelia and then Mary Kate, who announced that she possessed the family bible with the family tree! Not sure if Tom can face revision number 212!

Amelia with her cake … delicious!

The Clune Siblings with the family history that Tom researched.

Two of the youngest members … second cousins

115 – Wednesday 12.08: Frenzied in Florence

An early start and the train to Florence. Our groups was gain split into two smaller groups, each with a guide. History and the main sights seen. HOWEVER, it was very hot and very busy. Tourists everywhere. Packed with ’em and then horse drawn carriages trying to get through … James nearly lost his hat to one horse, and I nearly lost James to the carriage wheels!

As we will be spending a lot more time in Italy, we will come back and do the INSIDE of some of the sights when it is quieter.

With the tour guide in Florence

Michelangelo’s David … well the copy

It was a matter of pride to celebrate the human form

Cathedral and Campanile

Basilica’s doors that Michelangelo dubbed the Gates of Paradise

Ponte vechio: A German General disobeyed orders as he refused to blow it up as the Allies approached. It has housed jewellery shops since c.15 as the butchers’ smells offended the Medici’s who crossed between Palaces in the tunnel way across the top.

So after another amazing lunch … K and J only went for one course for this meal … chicken cacciatore 🙂 … we then caught the train back to Montecatini. We checked on Chardonnay, patted her bonnet and she introduced us the tourist busses that she has befriended!

116 – Thursday 13.08: Up to Alto and in High Alt with Football

Quite a number of the Clunes had already caught the funicular train up to Montecatini Alto and said the views worth it. We walked through the park, past the thermal baths complex (apparently people take the waters at 8.00 and have a movement at 10.00!) to the train station. It has operated since 1898 and as one goes up, one comes down on the same track with a passing place half way up. It was a surprisingly long way.

At the top we planned to have a coffee, a walk and then lunch. The coffee turned into a beer and a wine. The walk was a very slow stroll to see one of the churches and the castle walls … Oh and a memorial to Sainta Barbara which included bombs and barbed wire … she is the saint of war amongst other things!

The planned lunch did not happen in Montecatini Alto …. we selected a restaurant. J said in his best Italian ‘Buon Girno’ and was ignored by the waiter, who then flung two menus at J without a word …. so we left! He will presumably never know why he did not get our custom … just wish we had taken a note of the restaurant name … TripAdvisor is such a powerful weapon … wonder if Sainta Barbara would have been on our side?

As we had a bit of time before the first train down the hill, we wandered into one of those magic finds that occur only when you are not looking for them. We stumbled into a small locals’ bar: elderly men with a glass of wine or an ice-cream watching the TV. We moved through to one of the back rooms and discovered a draft set. We had both completely forgotten a) how to set up the board, but the barman helped us and b) the rules, but we cobbled through. Our glass of wine and coffee has half the price of the main square. A gem.

As we wandered back into the hotel, we were informed that the Clune blood team would be playing the Non-Bloods this afternoon. The football match had been declared at a previous evening’s dinner and the Captains had picked their teams, but given the extreme heat, we had thought it would not come to anything. How foolish and naive! Michael had not only booked a 5-aside pitch but ordered taxis to take us there and back. Sharon, the ref, had picked up yellow and red cards anticipating that she would need them – a lot. I don’t know how to say this, but K, the non-footballer, had been picked for the Non-Bloods as the only sub and J, the fittie, had not been picked for the Bloods! K had told Captain Mark that the ONLY time she had played football was last summer, when she kicked the ball at full force into the face of Jimmy aged 4. Even chocolate did not stem the tears. Mark seemed to think that hurting the opposition was a good thing?! It was also a VERY small gene pool for Mark to pick from. J determined to have a go, came prepared in his kit and, just as well, as there was a HUGE amount of subbing going on in the Blood team! Result? Non-bloods slaughter of Bloods with a 2-0 win, despite their enormous team of about 15 subs! Oh Yes!!!

The Clune Blood Team: Youth and numbers on their side!

The Non-Bloods: ranked as underdogs, but the captain Mark scored twice!

A fake dive by Michael, but he did a real one later!

Yes, I did actually get my boot to the ball! As well as my left boob … thank you David!

Husband and wife: Opposing!

117 – Friday 14.08: Leisurely and then cooking course

Free time, which meant a welcome lie in! Into town for a coffee and ice cream so huge, that K could not finish it – unheard of! There are so many Clunes in Montecatini, that Sharon and John passed us on a mission to find a football deflater and we discovered the Mary Kate, Boyler and baby Daniel had been inside whereas we had been outside! Indeed, as we left the hotel on Sunday, the head receptionist said that he would miss us all … the majority of the other guests were half dead neck up!

J declined the cookery lesson … can’t cook / won’t cook. We drove out to a villa, where guests can stay, learn to cook Tuscany style, ride horses etc. The villa was C17, but the staff were very modern. Sandra, matriarch, was a full on personality. Her son, was eye candy and the other teacher Texan Scarlett a poppet. We learnt knife skills, including how to sharpen, chopping skills and all cried with the onions! Laura did a bit more than cry and attempted to chop off a finger! We then made pasta and watched demonstrations on an orange (9 jested oranges!) sponge and Creme Anglaise.

What was really interesting was how long the chopped veggies were cooked … all their juices had to cook and reduce with the voluminous quantity of olive oil. Tip: Heat the veggies in the pan with the oil or they caramelise. But the sauce was unctuous …. no need for lip balm. The pudding was light and soaked up the cream. Over- stuffed again!

Head Chef Sandra with all our choppings and a vat of olive oil

Holly, aged 4, making pasta

The cooking group with the trainers

Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels

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