Days 79 cont – 82: Stave Churches and Osmosis in Oslo

Posted on July 10, 2015 by Clunegapyears

79 – Monday Continued

Having left Flam and its very efficient wifi, we headed off on the E16 for Oslo. The weather forecast for the next 5 days is cloud and showers. We stopped off to look at Borgund Stavkirke. There were 1000s of wooden churches built in the countryside before the (Lutheran) reformation. Very few remain and this one has remained unaltered since the Middle Ages. Slightly ominous as we drew up … big carpark, big visitor centre and biggish price – NOK80 each …. approx. £14 for the two of us. We desisted; we are all for supporting preservation work, but not yet another museum and infrastructure … especially on our budget! Whilst we missed out on seeing the inside, but could see a fair bit from the outside.

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Sally Sat Nav tried to take us off the E16, but as we were not expecting it, we ploughed on. Was it 15 or 20 miles of road works we encountered? Very slow and dirty. Just as well Chardonnay is well overdue a wash, however she has a new level of muck on her existing dirt.

As we have come further south, there have been fewer and fewer free parking (overnight) opportunities; again all part of the reaction against the sheer number of motorhomes and encouraging us to pay for campsites. However we found a lay by and joined a German van. We anticipated the noise from the E16 so close would keep us awake, however, there seemed to be very little traffic …. had everyone else known about the road works?

80 – Tuesday and Driving

Having slept in, we basically just drove all afternoon to the Ekenberg Campsite, over looking Oslo. I remembered staying here with Maddy and the Aged P’s about 8 years ago. Very busy … park up where you can so long as you are 3m apart and try and find a levelish bit – our wheel chocks have made an appearance! Two loads of washing and a BBQ – more fresh meat and enough for 3 meals … Aah lovely 🙂

As soon as we finished cooking it started to rain, so us and all the wet laundry (refused to pay for a dryer) into the ‘van. Quite inventive … smalls suspended from the rotary hanger, jeans from trouser hangers, T shirts on normal hangers, a towel from trouser hangers and the duvet from two trouser hangers … hanging off every shelf, hook and the roof lights. Starting to smell like a Chinese laundry. (J did a 2 mile run on arrival – the campsite was ideal for running as it is situated in a large multi facility park that stretches for miles – nice soft ground for running….).

81 – Wednesday: Osmosis in Oslo

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We knew the weather forecast was for wet … but it teamed down all day until 5.00. Waterproofed head to toe we caught the bus to the central station. Climbed the roof of the new Opera House. The Opera House is really impressive: completed in 2008, white Italian marble on the exterior sloping down to the sea shore. Still raining heavily so we booked tickets for one of the summer concerts.

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Took shelter in the cathedral, which surprised us as it only seats 900. The Crown Prince royal wedding must have been cramped and due the cross shaped seating only half the guests would have seen the ceremony. Whilst the foundation stone was laid in 1694, the ceiling is really low and was over painted in 1936-50 in a modern style. Slightly odd and incongruous looking.

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We persisted in our tourist walking route, but having picnicked under the shelter of a car park canopy we aborted! Back to the Opera House for a coffee and beer and somewhere dry to sit. After the concert we went to the National Gallery. Really well done as it is not too large, all on one floor, and it take you through only one room of icons and more swiftly onto explaining the more modern influences on Norwegian artists, from Munich, Berlin and Paris . So we saw and did not understand the Scream; it was more interesting reading about the two Scream thefts and how one of the 4 Screams is the most expensive painting sold in private ownership. Liked some of the Thomas Fernley and Christian Krohg.

As the rain stopped (for a while) we were able to BBQ and move some of the washing around …

82 – Thursday: Fram and Trams

Running am……….. J did 4 miles up and downand i ran for 16 mins VERY slowly for a lot less!

With a wet am forecast we planned a late start, as it was, it was fairly dry although still chilly. We bussed to the Bygdoy Island (now joined to the mainland as they filled in the sound in C19. I remembered the Kon-Tiki museum from my Maddy and Aged P visit, so we went to the Fram museum. My interest had really been stirred in the Arctic Explorers at the small and old fashioned museum in Tromso. We spent all afternoon here. Two floors explaining about the background to the race to reach the Poles, the crews and the technical developments towards each. The Fram was used initially by Nansen who believed they could be locked in the winter ice and drift over the North Pole. He realised the drift would miss the Pole, so he and one other headed off with kayaks and sledges and made it further north than any one previously. They saved each other’s lives and over wintered in a hut. Sverdup then used the Fram for a scientific exploration or the Arctic. Amundsen intended using it to go to the North Pole, but as someone claimed to be there already, changed his mind and chased off against Scott for the South Pole. There was also information about Scott’s expedition: it really was ill prepared for the conditions compared to Amundsen’s. The other boat there is the Gjoa, in which Amundsen was the first person to make it through the North West Passage.

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All (Arctic) Heros above.

Nansen is absolutely my new all time hero. After his exploring and contribution to science, he worked with refugees from all over and was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize. The Nanson ID card is still in use as identity for stateless persons. Amundsen was first through the NW Passage, contributed to science, first to South Pole and first to visit both the N and S Poles. A couple of biographies straight onto my reading list.

We were so late out of the museum, we’d missed the last bus out so had to use the tourist ferry, but it took us straight to the Town hall Area. We then used our public transport pass to tram and bus around the city a bit. We had planned to walk past the Bislett Stadium, but mistook trams for busses so gave it up as it was getting late. But saw the Town Hall and the Nobel Peace Prize building; Peace being selected by Norway, all the other prizes by Sweden.

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Days 78-79: Soggy Flambe

Posted on July 6, 2015 by Clunegapyears

78 – Sunday: Driving around Sognefjorden

James had passed a terrible night … passing traffic and the odd horn, so we decided against a long walk today. We did, however, drive to the next town to exercise along the cycle / pedestrian path and then moved onto a proper picnic viewpoint to breakfast. All this takes time, you know!

And driving around the fjord also takes time … slow bends, two ferries and lots of tunnels. One tunnel was 16 miles long. Claimed to be the longest in Europe – does anyone know any better? There were a couple of wide emergency places built in; they looked like the inside of glaciers due to the lighting:

The fjord is really pretty, but not spectacular like some of the scenery … more wooded slopes down to the water and quite a lot of fruit growing. We had booked the Flam mountain railway for Monday, so had to get on round so no stops, other than for lunch and driver changes.

Typical church with extremely well tended graveyard

We struggled today to find chemical toilet emptying. A number of signs have been taped over and the waste point now invisible or removed. There are also more signs in lay-bys starting no camping. They are definitely reacting against the number of motorhomers free camping. However, we ignored a crossed out toilet sign, found the emptying point and found a lay-by with no signs! We even BBQ’d the second lot of meat purchased the day before and hung our washing on the bike rack…. thumbed nose to ‘no camping’!

79 – Monday: Soggy in Flam

Drove to Flam (passing the crowded campsite!) and the visitor centre printed our tickets for us. Breakfasted and onto the train. Pretty empty .. would this be due to the weather? Rather sodden and increasingly wet. An American couple told us the train was fully booked tomorrow; I suppose it depends when the tour groups get in. Last time K did this with the Aged Ps and Maddy it was even wetter and mistier, so a slight improvement there. Nice scenery: at one point you can look up the valley and see the hairpin path and the shuttered railway track. The train stops at a waterfall for passengers to take pix. There is also a dancing blonde and red clad siren swaying to music at this point … one of the local legends. However, the scenery is nothing compared to further north. If the weather had been better, we could have taken the bikes up and cycled / free wheeled the 21 km back down. Perhaps next time … third time lucky with the weather.

Days 76 – 77 Geronimo at Geiringer!

Posted on July 6, 2015 by Clunegapyears

76 – Andalsnes (Raumabanaen nearly) Geiranger Fjord

Raining and the forecast promises more rain all day. We drove into Andalsnes as this is where the Rauma railway runs. Some bloggers have said it is more spectacular than the Flam railway, but we had missed the morning train. Last night K had tried to get a timetable and prices, but although on 3G, the web pages would not load …. never mind, we’ll do the Flam after all.

From Andalsnes we followed the queue of cars, buses and motorhomes up the Trollstigen … the much photographed very hairy hairpin bends. Visitor centre at the top with viewing platforms. Saw one large caravan … no idea how he coped with the bends. Such were the low revs in our van, that on a half tank of fuel which prior to the ascent showed a range of 200+ miles – this quickly dropped to 70 miles. First gear was used a lot. The road was so narrow, we had to keep slowing right down and evidenced two motorhomes have a wing mirror clash … fortunately, I suppose, they were both French so could understand each other’s accusations of blame! We had our own wing mirror contact later on, but fortunately at snails pace, so not even a scratch.

The visitor centre at the top of the pass had some great viewing platforms; one right over the top of some bends and one of the waterfalls. Looking down was not for everyone – a number pf people backed off at the drop.

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The top of the pass had a lot of snow and more amazing scenery.

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Geiranger Fjord was everything it is billed for (K had been in 2007) – truly spectacular – we cruised the Fjord in the tourist boat – 16 Km to the mouth and then turned – it is difficult to describe the waterfalls without exaggerating. The commentary described life on some of the precipitous farms, where children were tethered to stop them falling of the cliffs and soft fruit such as peaches were grown. One story involved the ladder which was used to access the farm (and it must have been a long one!) being lifted up so the tax man left empty handed. Opposing waterfalls … the Seven Sisters and the Suitor … he asked each in turn for their hand in marriage and was rejected … he turned to drink and the bottle, with a little imagination, is visible at the bottom of the fall. Whilst we have not been blest with a late and cold spring, we are blest that the waterfalls are more magnificent than normal.

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The following are for Maddy and the Aged P: Pic of the stream where Maddy sat staring at how beautiful it was about 8 years ago … and the camp site was mostly tents then. Where did all these motorhomes come from?

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Back in the van and more hairpins uphill again – not so bad as before. But more deep snow packs and a frozen river or was a it a glacier?

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Then down the other side and we happened upon a night parking area by a river with amazing views out towards the snow capped mountains and grass roofed summer huts.

77 – Near Stryn and Cleaning

We should have left early to travel to Bergen to meet Sinead, but sadly her yacht had to leave sooner than planned due to a bad weather forecast…another time and place hopefully. Instead, we walked/ran in the most beautiful sunshine along the river – what a way to start the day.

And then – our van spoke to us in a west country dialect saying – “please clean me?” Bugger….. ! We even lifted the carpets!

Drove a short way to refill water to onto another watery lay-by and cleaned ourselves! The water stop had not too expensive BBQ meat and ice creams :). Really good to taste fresh meat, if that does not sound too Anthony Hopkins / Hannibal Lector. We have been living on tins (thank you M&S and Saisbury’s), risotto made from mostly dried veg and soya mince. All very tasty, but the texture of fresh chicken …..

76 – Andalsnes (Raumabanaen nearly) Geiranger Fjord

From Andalsnes we followed the queue of cars, busses and motorhomes up the Trollstigen … the much photographed very hairy hairpin bends. Visitor centre at the top with viewing platforms. Saw one large caravan … no idea how he coped with the bends. Such were the low revs in the van, that on a half tank of fuel which prior to the ascent showed a range of 200+ miles – this quickly dropped to 70 miles. First gear was used a lot.

Geiranger Fjord was everything it is billed for (K had been in 2007) – truly spectacular – we cruised the Fjord in the tourist boat – 16 Km to the mouth and then turned – it is difficult to describe the waterfalls without exaggerating. Back in the van and more hairpins uphill again – not so bad as before. Then down the other side and we happened upon a night parking area by a river with amazing views out towards the snow capped mountains and grass roofed summer huts.

77 – Near Stryn and Cleaning

Drove a short way to refill water to another watery lay-by and cleaned ourselves! The water stop had not too expensive BBQ meat and ice creams :). Really good to taste fresh meat, if that does not sound too Anthony Hopkins / Hannibal Lector.

Days 74-75: Trondheim and Waterfalls

Posted on July 5, 2015 by Clunegapyears

74: Wednesday and the 1st of the month

Last night we arrived about 7.45 pm at the free motorhome parking near the Trondheim city centre. We arrived AFTER everyone else though and all the free parkings were taken, so we had to pay until 8.00 pm last night and for an hour this morning. There were quite a few of us up and ready to rush into a vacated free spot … James was spotting and dressed. K was at the wheel in her nightie …. You have all seen the starting rows for the Grand Prix? We were initially on the second row – but surreptitiously nipped into the front row… A free space became available – the chequered flag was raised – and K shot away for the first corner – sorry, the free space! Now shooting away at speed in our 28 foot 4 ton van actually means doing zero to 5 mph in the same day! But, she warded off all comers – Lewis Hamilton take notice please…

It looks as if there is no time limit, so we will probably stay here tonight.

We both ran on beautiful track along the river Nid … yes even K, although hers was more of a shuffle / plod. And the new trainers got wet as it started to rain 😦 and has hardly stopped since 😦 :(. And we hear bristol is experiencing 24C!

Bought a combined ticket for the cathedral and Bishops’ Palace … Check mate my very own Bishop! Some folk we met said Trondheim was not very interesting – but we loved it: the history about St Olav, the Norwegian Patron Saint. We sat for an organ recital in the Cathedral which included some Vaughan Williams as well as Bach. In the Bishops Palace we saw the Crown Jewels. As Norway only had its very own Royal family from 1905, most of the royal regalia is relatively new and sadly, made in Sweden.

An old bridge to the … old town … with waterside warehouses.

Trondheim invented the worlds first bicycle lift! A very steep hill – metal channel at the kerb side – you placed your foot on a disc – and the lift took you (and bike) slowly up the hill – K interviewed some of the eager participants and see results below! if it had not been raining we would have cycled Trondheim, such a shame … would have loved a go.

Up the hill to the fortress. Health and Safety has goon complete mad in the UK and here’s the proof. The top of the walls of the fort do not have barricades to stop people falling off, just a polite sign reminding people to be careful. Thus they have not destroyed the fort.
And finally on the walk back to Chardonnay we passed through the old town and later the wooden ‘royal palace’ right in the centre of the town. As Kings and Queens have to have the benediction (no longer a proper coronation, but similar) in Trondheim Cathedral, they stay here when in town.

75 – Thursday: Longest in N Europe Waterfall Drop

After exercise and watching all the waiting vans skidaddle into vacant plots, as we had done the morning before, we set south. We had read that the coastal road around Alesund was really expensive in tolls and a mega tourist rip off and the scenery no better than else where, so we set forth cross country and saw … some amazing scenery! And even better, very few motorhomes and traffic generally. Along rivers, up and down through passes.

And finally to Mardalen waterfall. A bit of a detour as it is a road in and then the same road out …. but really worth it. It is the longest drop waterfall in N Europe. Parked and walked up to the waterfall.

So many lovely wild flowers everywhere. In Finland the wild lupins were blue, and blue further north in Norway. Now there are profusions of purple and pink. And all sorts of other flowers; I recognise only the aquilegia and foxgloves …. so lovely. The rolling fields in the valleys meet the steep and dark mountains. Every scrap of land is being harvested for hay. Even in large gardens and sometimes hung on wooden rows to dry. Sanguine red cattle

Short drive to just north of Andalsness. Very late now … nearly 9.00 pm. Note to selves, must park up by 8.00p.m. latest – we are too tired and yet to eat! The parking was right on the fjord and although busy, loads of space and peaceful. Again wonderful reflections in the still water.

Days 71 – 73: Artic Circle Revisitied

Posted on June 30, 2015 by Clunegapyears

71 – Sunday: Narvik and WW2 Museum

We arrived at the Narvik motorhome parking just as most were leaving. Exercised – we seem to regularly get up and drive to somewhere we can exercise off the E6 main road. Breakfasted and visited the WW2 museum. It covered the German attack, British and Allies counter attack, withdraw of Allies troops as needed on other fronts, 5 years of German occupation, resistance work and a harrowing section on the mass slaughter and abuse of political prisoners who were deemed lower than captured soldiers. James was tour guide reading from the comprehensive English language booklet. An old fashioned, but very interesting museum. In a couple of years they will rehouse and probably make all interactive … we liked it’s quirkiness and low price! There was a cable car to the top of the mountain, but it seemed pretty pointless as we could not even see the top due to the cloud!

Drove on through snow capped dark rock mountains and parked up with a couple of German motorhomes over looking the most amazing lake – the mists even lifted in the morning so we could see it!

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72 – Monday: Tyres and Arctic Circle

Night time sojourn – off-main road car park – with a couple of vans and a tent from Poland – which had people inside – who went fishing….. We had discovered a slow puncture in a rear wheel which J tried to blow air into and fainted! Back to the truth – J cannot muster 4.5 Bar or 65 psi – only after a really hot curry! Drove to Fauske and what did K see? A Michelin sign over a tyre fitters. A quick U Turn and 2.5 hours later we had a the slow puncture repaired and a can of ‘stuff’ to that seals such slow punctures. Fully inflated we set forth.

We climbed and climbed …. the mountains got rockier and the adjacent river was essentially waterfall after rapids along its length. At the top it opened up and we are at the Arctic Circle – for the second time, but this time on the way down and heading towards warmer weather! We stopped for a couple of pix … appropriately there was a lot os snow around. Hard to see but we are actually in front of the Arctic Circle sign! And, of course, this Arctic Circle centre would not be complete without a miniature Nordkapp globe! We have spent 14 days in the Arctic Circle. On the way down, the countryside started to open out and this river was calmer and got gradually wider.

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We stopped in Mo i Rana just to replace K’s running shoes at a massive (shop called XXL) sports shop: a bit like IKEA … you had to follow the grey path through all the fishing, cycling, gun etc sections before reaching the tills.

We stayed in a free car park overnight just off the E6 main road – small car park – with ultimately 9 motorhomes and one motorbike ! Cosy….

73 -Tuesday: Trondheim

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Up at dawn again (9:00 am!) and journeyed south to Grane village where 23 local men were shot by German troops for being members of the Resistance in 1942. K norked – lighting up the whole of Norway in her new psychedelic running shoes – see photo below but watch with sunglasses only ! J ran – in his not so new and understated blue shoes, feeling shoe envy… Then brekkie and SatNav set for Trondheim via a wc emptying and water loading facility – which ultimately proved as difficult to find as Alex Ferguson’s sense of humour when asked why teams visiting Old Trafford were never awarded penalties ! But, we prevailed…

The approach to Trondheim is impressive and looked to indicate a city of more than it’s 180,000 people. Then, we encountered the toll roads! I must find someone to complain to – perhaps my successor as MD of a major UK road toll charging company! Sally SatNav brought us to the only free motorhome overnight car park – full to the gunnels – we have parked in the adjacent pay park – all of £2.10 – and see what tomorrow brings… It’s definitely getting warmer as we travel south – we have dispensed with the extra wooly blanket over the duvet at night – what night – oh for some stars ! I hear that UK is having a heat wave… 25 Centigrade?

Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels

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