1184-1187: Giving It The Finger

1184 – An Unwanted Drive

Monday 3rd June 2019

I should explain the title … Corsica is the shape of your hand with a clenched fist facing you and the index finger pointing up.  Cap Corse is the index finger.

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We’d planned to have a no driving day after the longish drive to get here.  And the log cabin with wide deck felt so relaxing.  Great views out onto greenery; we couldn’t quite see the sea, but you had to turn your head around to the right before you could see the field of motorhomes.  This was full of people of a certain vintage oozing through the day, taking siestas in the sun.  And we planned to have some of that.  

But plans, as you know, go awry.  

We’d been told by phone that the quote from the garage for the work on our MH would not arrive until Tuesday, but it pinged into my in box on late Friday.  After 5 abortive phone calls to the garage to tell them to go ahead (phone dropped in cradle, left to ring and left on hold for 20 mins etc), we gave up and drove to the garage.   At least this campsite was only an hour away.  At the garage, the receptionist found our paperwork and J duly signed off the repair.  She took my email and phone number and promised to get back with when the work would be completed … no prizes for guessing, that she did not.

By the time we’d done a big super market shop and found some half decent dog food, it was lunchtime and I’d not even had a coffee.  So we HAD to stop in a seaside village and have a light lunch … but this was then followed by dessert … so not so light after all.

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Campsite Domaine La Pietra … after one of the local beers (although it would have been the beer named after the place!).  Not cheap, but wonderfully calm setting.  Wonderful bird song.

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As the weather hadn’t yet really hotted up, we could have done without the shady afternoon deck.  We used the clothes airer and one of the sun loungers to gate CO2.

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A strawberry version of Tiramasu … with our lunchtime view.

1185 – Cruising Cap Corse

Tuesday 4th June

Picnic packed, we drove north around Cap Corse and back across the hills in the middle.  Coffee in a pretty dead village. Great views, but not as wonderful as the drive from Calvi to Porto.

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Porticciolo with one place open for coffee.

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Macinaggio, top right of the finger.  Pretty enough if you’d wanted a restaurant lunch or a boat ride, but nothing else here.

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Moving around to the top left to the viewpoint at the Moulin Mattei, this was the lunch stop.

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Master of all he surveys.

1186 – A Stiff Climb and Reward

Wednesday 5th June

Rather than be (completely) idle we trudged in the heat up to the ruin that we could see from our cabin deck.  Wonderful views, once we’d hauled ourselves up the last section by the rope provided.

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About 20 stones telling you the plant names.  We just couldn’t always work out which plant they were referring to.  I recognised Rosemary!!!

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And up we go gently …

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… and not so gently.

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And J making it look easy on the descent.

1187 – Thurstrating

Thursday 6th June

Car loaded (jam packed), we headed off across the Cap to continue the western side of the finger.  We’d been told we could collect the car (probably) late afternoon.  We picnicked on a beach just north of Nonza, and then about 2.30 I tried to ring the garage … eventually got hold of someone!  Zut alors!  They’d ordered the wrong part!  They would try and get hold of the correct one urgently, as we had been waiting a long time, hadn’t we?????  Er … yes! 

OK, so we are homeless and based on their work rate so far, we thought we wouldn’t get the car back until Monday … earliest.  So onto the phone to campsites for cabins at our next destination … Corte in the hills.  Finally, we phoned a site – the elderly-sounding gent said no problem … he would start to get one ready? H spoke to K alternately in German and Corsican French… after a total of 3 hours driving, wearied at 6:00 pm (dogs dinner time) – said gent said – NO DOGS – “Merde”!!!  He also blamed K for her bad French! Absolute bollocks – pardon my Irish…  Nothing daunted – we drove to the nearest town – Corte – to find a hotel – quick success – and doggy friendly with private parking.  The accommodation was 3star – a bit retro and tired but – a large comfy bed and big bathroom….  On being asked country of origin by the receptionist, K asked wasn’t it evident from her accent.  Non, madame speaks good French with an excellent accent.  K was therefore rather scathing (impolitely) about deaf and blind old men running customer facing businesses!  Food needed – so up to the square and a nice family restaurant. Then a glass of wine in our room – and lots of zsssss for all.

What will tomorrow bring? – “The return of the Jedi/Jezi”?????   We’ve had “The (Fiat) Empire Strikes Back” and “The Longest Day”.   Hope springs…..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1179-1183: Completing Calvi

1179 – Corniche Road to Porto

Wednesday 29th May 2019

Another day driving roads that were indicated as difficult with the MH.  Actually, except for a narrow bit at the end, we would have been fine in Jez … but very limited parking and unwelcoming No Motorhome signs at our destination Porto.  So a much more relaxing drive in the car.  And what a drive.  Reckon this is the best scenery we’ve seen.  Going south from Porto, the coast is a lot more extreme and rugged, bashed by the wilder west sea.  We took a picnic and a coffee flask and managed great view stops for both.  Porto was really pretty and definitely worth a drive to, unlike Ile Rousse, which on a take it or leave it basis, we would have left it!

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Coffee Stop at a viewpoint.

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Our shade seeker.

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Wooded walk up to further view point.

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And our mountain dog admiring the view.  The rocks looked much redder.

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Porto beach with a few die hard sun worshipers.

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Porto beach’s magnificent back drop.

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Crashing waves, watched an idiot wade out paddling and get knocked over twice.  I’d already decided there was no way I attempt any life saving – suicide.

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Boats from Porto to inaccessible by road beaches.

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Would that have been an ice cream???

1180 – Best Walk in Ages

Thursday 30th May 2019

One of the guide books mentioned a walking area, Le Foret de Bonifatu, with views and rock pools, so we headed there.  We had no idea how stunning the scenery and views were going to be.  We actually felt that we got right into the mountains.  Part of this walk is on the GR20 – a number of people follow this crossing from one end of Corsica to the other.   We were both buzzing from what a great walk it had been.

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Lunch in the car park so we didn’t have to carry it.  More sensible than we realised as it was a long nonstop way up.

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Must I cross this?!

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The path up, so many wild flowers.

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And more wild lavender.

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Above the tree line.

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I can be a mountain dog too!

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Rather than balance on this to cross the raging river (note – not a stream!), we had to do this ….

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Corrie, of course bounced back and forwards to show how easy it was, Oscar had to be pulled!

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Not just one steam, but two! Think Corrie is asking what is keeping us!  Are you making a dog’s dinner of that?

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At the Auberge by the car park … I have been a brave boy!

1181 – Wedding Anniversary

Friday 31st May

We’d decided to take it easy, so we played tennis!  For the first time in about 3 years.  We both really enjoyed it, but I was slaughtered.  J may be 72, carrying an additional stone and half from the hormone treatment, but he won 6:1!

We wandered into Calvi and out the other side to a restaurant that figured highly in reviews … so many restaurants all offer the same menu in the town.

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My first Kir of this trip.

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Being a foodie, I love it when I am presented with something new to me.  A goats cheese mousse on a bed of beetroot spaghetti … reckon I could replicate this.

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The chocolate mousse looked more like a boudin noir and lacked flavour, but nice presentation.

1182 – Down Day

Saturday 1st June

Now an odd thing happened.  James fancied a beach day!  This is the man who now seeks to sit in the sun, wanting to get sand where it has no place to be!  Is this an undiscovered side affect of the hormone treatment?  So we had another game of tennis … still slaughtered, but I managed to take two games off him!  Lunch and a doze on the beach.  No swimming, although I did paddle and Oscar did his usual swim out and round me, as if to herd me back to shore.  Off tomorrow to pastures new, so the car was loaded … very solidly!

1183 – The Long Road Out of Calvi

Sunday 2nd June

Unbelievably, we have been a staggering 11 nights in the chalet, 2 nights in the van on this campsite and another 2 nights at another campsite in Calvi.  I think we can safely say that we’ve done Calvi!    As check in was after 5 at our next campsite chalet, we took the slow mountain road.

Muro was dead as a Dodo.  Not even a cafe.  Feliceto gave us a choice of cafe … we opted for the epicerie (old fashioned) with all the locals.  Super large creamy coffee and only EUR5.  Speluncato, which I dubbed Spunkato … you’ll see why in a moment, was also definelty worth a stop.  Had we not a picnic, a lunch in the square would have been appealing.  Lots of winding narrow streets and 360 views.

We skirted the Desert des Agriate, but the coast is not accessible unless you are in a 4 wheel drive.  Scenery was different, lower scrub.  We had intended to stop for a coffee (or ice cream) in St Florent, but absolute nowhere to park the car.  It was heaving and looked like a bustling holiday resort … sure we’d have had a choice of coffees (ice creams!).  Then through Patrimonio, with all the vineyards offering tastings … not for us on a driving day!  Across the bottom of the finger that sticks up NE of Corsica, and half way up the eastern side to Pietra Corbara Marina to our next campsite chalet!

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Speluncato – the campanile had the extra bit added in the C19 and the guide book described it as a phallic addition.  So not my dirty mind!

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Motorhome Repair Update

No news really.  Having been for a week trying the get a quote emailed to us, we were told by phone it would be Tuesday before we would receive it.  But then right at the end of the Friday, the email arrived.  Too late for us to ring the garage … that’ll have to be Monday.