220 – 221: Mosaics and Mountain Mishaps!

220 – Thursday 26th November 2015:  Brad in the Doghouse – and Chaos in Calascibetta !

We rose late-ish – me (J) first somehow – having sidestepped the idea of running as K was still conversing with the duvet…..  I started to prepare my breakfast which requires great skill – using a scissors to cut open the cereal packet without having to eat it off the floor!   Success reigned – but then K announced that she was going to run – on the running track just behind where we had parked !  Completely flummoxed, I felt obliged to join in and temporarily abandon my cereal…  cereal success having reigned earlier, the skies now rained – and the joint assault on Olympic track records was shelved – Ussain Bolt can rest easy for now !

Having been spoiled in recent times with sunshine and good temperatures, we decided that we do not fancy rain and UK-ish temperatures – how times change indeed…  Decision made to motor down the A-something-or-other – to an Outlet Shopping Centre to while away a few hours.  K managed to avoid buying a Gucci handbag for Euro 2,000 even though it had been reduced from Euro 4,000 !  That would have been our budget for 2016 down the toilet ! But, she is brave when the chips are down…  Lunch at the Centre was coffee, a caneloni bun for K and Tiramisu for moi – you just cannot beat this healthy living – who needs Soya ?

Brad was then programmed to guide us to an overnight parking site in a town called Calascibetta – we gave him the correct coordinates, and off we sailed. Now, we have been into some mountain towns without too much trouble but perhaps we might have seen the danger signals earlier…  For the benefit of our reader, Chardonnay our van is 28’ long, 9’ wide and weighs in at just under 4 tonnes – with frontwheel drive…

We found ourselves in a one-way series of streets which seemed to get narrower – twice we were completely blocked and had to bang on doors to get people to move their cars to let us inch past…  One very nice lady driver asked me “What are you doing here ?”  (in that large van).  I blamed our SatNav, lamely… she said “you shouldn’t come here in that van – especially in the rain” – prophetic words, as it happened…  No escape, we proceeded vey slowly, with a long line of cars building behind us. As we approached a lefthand turning narrow hairpin bend – with a steep uphill climb, we both said something like “Goodness gracious me – this could be a problem”.  It was.  K turned at the appropriate angle and prepared to accelerate gently around the bend. There was no way we could go around in one turn and stopped to get a better angle – on restarting the manoeuvre, the front wheels would only spin on the wet surface time after time !  By now, we were completely at an angle – blocking the entire street and the long line of vehicles behind – with no obvious solution.  Many drivers came up to look, shook their heads and sympathised in Italian.  Nobody appeared to question our sanity in just being there with our monster truck – stuck in a town where the biggest car is a Fiat Panda !  K phoned our emergency vehicle rescue service in UK who gave her another number for overseas rescues.  At that time, we gave little thought to the difficulty any rescue vehicle would have in even reaching us without having to demolish some very nice houses !  We tried using the floor mat to give some grip to the wheels – to no avail. While K was on the phone and with the guidance of two other drivers, I tried a different turn – away from the obviously correct direction – to our huge relief, the van moved to the right without sliding !   It now became an issue of just trying to angle our vehicle sufficiently to free the logjam we had created – after many turns, it worked and the traffic cleared.   Again with huge help from many drivers, we got the van straight again and climbed the slope around the bend.  One lady had waited in her small Fiat and told K she would guide us through the other bends down into the town – what an incredibly kind gesture !  One after the other, we slowly wound our way down – sometimes having to take multiple turns to get around corners. On one such turn, I caught the end of a light van and slightly damaged our back bumper….

Once into the downtown area and wider streets, K thanked our Good Samaritan profusely.  Serious note to selves – Chardonnay will visit no more mountain towns – we will visit by bus, bicycle or good old Shanks Mare !   Mega relief in our van.  Brad had actually tried to take us into some parking area in the town – he does not know our size…. Decision made to purchase a “caravan” SatNav system – Brad may need to take a sabbatical – or be relegated to the substitutes bench.

We found a parking area some miles further on away from Calascibetta – it was closed, unfortunately.  A perfectly acceptable lay-by near to hand became our oasis for the evening…

221 – Friday 27th November 2015: Mosaics but no more mountains!

The team slept – K dreamed of hairpin bends in mountain towns – I dreamed Ireland beat New Zealand 57-0 in the rugby World Cup Final – and I scored three tries ! Liar !  It was only 27-0 !  Brad dreamed of finding another job – being a tour guide in Calascibetta….his CV is somewhat lacking though but his reference from us will sway the Town Council…

Next to our overnight pitch there was an old-fashioned long water trough where the contents were constantly being replenished. The trough contained two goldfish ! I did not have too much wine last night, honestly – I was too busy showcasing my rugby skills…  It became obvious also that our lay-by was a local meeting place – for folk going to work and stopping to talk about all manner of gossip – including some mention of two looney strangers trying to drag an odd vehicle through the streets of Calascibellissimo as it’s now called – by us !  We stayed close to the duvet which did not seem too difficult in the circumstances…

For some time, we had noticed that one of our rear tyres was soft-ish and it needed air – up to 5 Bar – which in old money is probably 5,000 PSI !  K suggested that my almost endless supply of verbal hot air might be sufficient for the task !  My wife is all heart….  Try as I might, I just couldn’t get my lips properly around the tyre valve – even without my false teeth !  Nothing for it but to find a ‘pneumatici riparazioni’  somewhere. The somewhere was Piazza Armorina just off the SSP something-or-other road…

Freshly pumped up – and with my hot air intact – Latin “fartus intacticus majorem”, the Roman Villa Casale was our destination for the afternoon. It is an immensely impressive villa that contains the best collection of Roman mosaics possibly in the world – no exaggeration – K’s photos will show why. Shame they charge for parking and the entrance fee.

Mountain towns behind, the van was pointed towards the south coast – and a Marina for the night.  Now we are here – it is a ghost town (summer villas all closed up) – not a soul in sight – and the wind howling outside – wonderful high seas with lots of white horses. Will we run tomorrow in 25 mph gusts ?

K … the mosaics were truly something else.  The detail on the images was stunning … check out the anatomical details too!  The ladies in bikinis are, in fact, sports women!

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217 – 219: Staff Lunch and Rain in the Mountains

217 – Monday 23rd November 2015:  Staff Lunch

The Aged P’s do a huge amount for us:  Personal Assistants – opening post, scanning and emailing docs to us, receiving and collecting parcels, and car care etc.  This was their last day so we picked them up and took them for a staff lunch.  Don’t you find if you treat your staff right, they stay with you?  And we need them to sign up for at least another 5 years!

Seafood - we all wore bibs

Seafood – we all wore bibs

My starter - fried limpets. A very different shape to those on the UK coast. Yummy with all the garlic and a hint of chilli.

My starter – fried limpets. A very different shape to those on the UK coast. Yummy with all the garlic and a hint of chilli.

We have spent two weeks with them and miss them hugely.

218 – Tuesday 24th November 2015:  ‘Gorge’-ous 

Big runs for us and nothing to do with the toilet!  J did 4 miles and I did 5 km … doesn’t that make it sound as if I did more?

We have about a 9 day window before Kerstin joins us from Germany, so we have a window in which to explore a section of Sicily in more detail.  The thought was to head for the hills before winter really sets in as it can be a 10C temperature difference from the coast.  We knew the forecast was clouds and showers, but since we planned to do a bit of walking … no problem!  Huh!

We visited Gole Alcantara.  A seriously large visitor attraction, as the roads to it were really good and they obviously catered for hoards of summer tourists and lots of things for young children to do.  We started with a short film in English about how the deep and narrow gorge had been formed, cutting through the volcanic basalt that had filled a valley.  It was 3d and the narrator – an ant needed stepping on and the butterflies needed swatting so you could see the rock formations!  As it is winter (!) and the gorge is prone to flash flooding, we could not get down to the water level, but there was a route around the top, through a botanical garden, with viewing points.  The heavens opened and served to make the rocks even blacker.  We have seen lots of gorges, but this was seriously different due to the rock formations.  Hence so many pix!

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Prickly Pear – once the thorns are removed it can be used as a juice and added to booze.

We attempted to overnight on a Fattore Amicale (Italian version of France Passion:  farms with free space), but had read on forums that a lot of the farms deny knowledge of ever signing up to the scheme.  And so it proved.  Never mind … Plan B was brilliant.  It was an Agritourism:  vineyard, restaurant, rooms, pool, pukka motorhome services, a shower / toilet block and a VIEW.  We really did not mind the EUR15 fee.

Our pitch with views, once the clouds lifted a bit.

Our pitch with views, once the clouds lifted a bit.

We had arrived early, so both of us did banking and K some Christmas gift ordering.  Lovely phone call with Bron.  During the evening we watched the lightening roll around the hills behind cloud formations.  We had a fair bit of the storm over us too!

 

219 – Wednesday 25th November 2015

Heavy rain, so we had a slow and leisurely start.  We headed for Randazzo and as the skies cleared we parked up and wandered into the town.  We had no sooner alighted from Chardonnay and the heavens opened again (as bad as any Brizzle Drizzle), so we battled to the Duomo (interesting tower as it was predominantly black basalt) and bolted for a cafe … coffee and pizza slices :).  As they are not so used to rain here, the water pours down the streets out of gutterings and gaps in walls.  So heavy, we aborted and headed back to Chardonnay.

 

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James, would that be a cheeky little pizza slice?

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Stashing the beers!

We drove through Bronte (formerly gifted to Horatio Nelson), Adrano and Regelbuto – all in the guide book, but still pretty wet, so no stop offs.  At times the clouds did lift a bit and we could see the hill peaks with ruins atop and the rolling patchwork of fields.  Destination:  Lake Pozzillo Dam – the largest artificial basin in Sicily.  Sunshine as we arrived so we had quick and muddy walk along the shore.

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Our pitch … in front of a running track … and did we use it? But it started to rain!!!!

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It really was very windy and muddy.

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212 – 216 : East Side of Sicily

212 – Wednesday 18th November 2015: Aci Trezza Walk and … Lunch

We had thought being in the town would be noisy, but it was actually very peaceful.  J was up and about very early for the sunrise – you can tell how long he was out there by the changing light – I thought he gone fishing with one of the locals!

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A superb and FREE parking location for two nights.

A superb and FREE parking location for two nights.

 

The Aged P’s arrived … on time!  If anything 2 minutes late …. had my ribbing about being always early had an effect?  It threw us off – we’d started a quick tidy and a hoovering.

A gent's tie cared in basalt ... J not having any of it! He has two remming ties in the Aged P's attic: weddings and funerals!

A gent’s tie carved in basalt … J not having any of it! He has two remming ties in the Aged P’s attic: weddings and funerals!

Coffee in Chardonnay and then a walk along the front to Acicastello, passing the Isole dei Cyclops:  basalt rocks creating usual shapes near the harbour.  According to Homer, Polyphemus threw them at Ulysses who had blinded him.   Part of the path wended through a private lido with changing huts, plants and sun bathing areas … yours for EUR3.  J and I wandered up the stairs into the town – the town where we had struggled with tight turns in Chardonnay yesterday, but we forgave it.  It had a nice high piazza by the castle and views over the sea.

 

 

 

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It was a little early for lunch, so we tried another of the Slovenian wines we had brought back for Horvat winery in Maribor … this is the second we have tried with the Aged Ps and they are really good.  Despite trying for pizza; most seemed to be shut, we ended up with a very good lunch of swordfish overlooking the harbour.

Coffees after lunch sitting on the harbour wall.

Coffees after lunch sitting on the harbour wall.

OK for those of you who think we look alike ... we obviously have the same mannerisms too!

OK for those of you who think we look alike … we obviously have the same mannerisms too!

Sylvie: This one's for you. Tiramsu WITH coffee and chocolate ice cream and cream .....

Sylvie: This one’s for you. Tiramsu WITH coffee and chocolate ice cream and cream …..

213 – Thursday 19th November 2015:  Mount Etna

A plan for Etna today.  The Aged P’s had driven up part of it some years ago (they have been most places!), but it is so much part of Sicily and the largest volcano in Europe, that it really is a must.  The other name for it is Mongibello: from the Italian ‘monte’ meaning mountain and the Arab ‘gebel’ meaning mountain too.  So ‘Mount Mountain’.  Regular eruptions from the main core and side craters – so constantly re-‘cratering’ itself, that it gets to be named twice!  I hope you spotted my weak pun there!

We drove via a motorway services for imperfect motorhome services … I won’t go into detail about the concrete hole in the ground …..  Another stop for GPL.  And several abortive stops for water.  Ho hum … we were a little late at our rendezvous of Zafferano Etnea with the Aged P’s …. just as well.  They arrived before us and rang to say the road was unsuitable to get Chardonnay down.  We plugged in coordinates number 2 (we like to have a Plan B, and C and sometimes, even D) and met at Piazza Kennedy.  The Aged P’s failed to find coffee and cakes in town and so joined us in Chardonnay, whilst J munched through a volcano sized bowl of cereal.

Car view on the drive up. The Autumn leaves must further on here than we have seen anywhere else as it is so much cooler.

Car view on the drive up. The Autumn leaves were further on here than we have seen anywhere else, as it is so much cooler.

We drove in Chardonnay up to the Rifugio Sapienza, where the cable car starts for the summit of Etna starts.

K had googled:

  • That the road was suitable for motorhomes and so it proved – much easier than most Sicilian roads!  Wide and with a good surface for all the summer tourist coaches.
  • The prices for the Etna ascent.  Not going to happen for us … EUR30 for the cable car.  23 for the 4 wheel drive jeep and you still had to walk the rest.  And then 9 for the compulsory guide to get to mouth of the main crater.  A whopping total of EUR62!  EACH!!

However, Etna had kindly gushed a small crater near the carpark and we circled that.  A quick and disdainful look at the souvenir shops … who would pay EUR10 for a lump of rock when you can pick one up?  And then lunch in Chardonnay, admiring the effects of the changing light on the lava.  Fascinating to see the lava, both black and red, and how vegetation starts to grow on areas of volcanic rock.  Drifts of volcanic ash that covered the road in places and must be a real hazard to walkers and cars in high winds.

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Definitely much cooler up here

Definitely much cooler up here.

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J at the bottom of a small crater ... oops, at the bottom of a massive one, of course. If it blows, the only way is up.

J at the bottom of a small crater … oops, at the bottom of a massive one, of course!  If it blows, the only way is up.

Looks as if dad is about to chuck Mum into the crater ... she was actually being camera shy!

Looks as if Dad is about to chuck Mum into the crater … she was actually being camera shy!

The car park was used for a mass paraglider landing.

The car park was used for a mass paraglider landing, having come down from near the top of Etna. Bet this was more than the EUR 62 to get to the top!

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Our Belgian neighbours from  Aci Trezza had arrived too.  They would stay overnight nearby and he would pay for the cable car and then walk the 5km up, but tomorrow morning as it was too late today.

We could have stayed overnight in the car park in Zafferano Etnea, but the guide book had promised a permanent agricultural fair with local wine and produce …. since there was no sight of either, a whining dog well within ear shot, and the rain had started … three good reasons to head back down the side of Etna towards the coast and higher temperatures.

Brad SatNav was duly tasked with taking us directly to an overnight parking near San Marco close to the coast…..  Well, we coasted along following his directions….until he guided us down a quite narrow nondescript road. We followed confidently – the road got more narrow with trees brushing our roof…  The road which seemed very narrow got more and more narrow. Did I just use the word narrow twice in the same sentence ?  It then got narrowissimo ! Molto narrow, pissedoffissimo narrow, in fact…  We came to a point where further progress was actually impossible with nowhere to turn around ! We have been in tight spots before, but this was definitely the worst. Calmly (not), we assessed the options – reverse our 28′ beauty along a ‘kinometre of blind mans alley – or (on finding a sort of gateway) turn in down a gravelly sandy slope with multifarious potholes – and then reverse up the slope and around an impossibly tight corner !  K (calmly) volunteered to drive – and I  gave directions from outside the van. Reversing up the gravelly slope led to many wheel spins and slides – this was not promising… Finally, K administered some teacherly wellie – and Chardonnay made it up the gradient.  As we share everything, I took my turn behind the wheel at this point. After a 27 point turn, we somehow got our home straightened enough to head back in the direction from whence we came !  Gulps of air (and relief) all round – the gin would have come later, except we don’t have any…

Brad (suitably admonished) finally led us to an alternative oasis – that just happened to be – a campsite!  It was the one we planned to stay at tomorrow.  We decide it was fate – and bivouacked for a peaceful evening…..

 

214 – Friday 20th November 2015:  Defeated by Taormina Parking and a BBQ

The Aged P’s left their car at our campsite and J drove along the coast (after a direction error by K and had to do a tight 5 point turn at the entrance to the hospital), which was actually really pretty.  A bay with islands and amazing clear water.

They have put a long tunnel under Taormina  to get to the multi-storey car park as cars, thankfully, are banned from the old town centre.  Bugger …. height barriers and not for motorhomes.  We followed a motorhome parking sign, another tight turn, down a slope, just scraping the exhaust pipe and a 7 point turn this time.  The ticket booth stated that motorhome parking was a whopping EUR5/hour but it seemed pretty deserted.  We walked up the slope and looked at the tunnel we would have to walk through …. none of us fancied this, so we scarpered.  Dad had suggested returning the the campsite via the supermarket to buy some fodder for lunch.  We elected on a BBQ, which went slightly awry as the charcoal would not get going.  J even chucked more lighting fuel on it … (from a safe distance, of course) and that just smoked.  Abort.  Chardonnay’s grill was deployed for the second time in 7 months, until K remembered the Cadac Safari grill … success … we managed to eat …. eventually.

Unbelievably, our Belgian neighbours turned up at the camping.  It is a shame we were all too tired to make an evening of it (we had eaten and drunk too much and he had done the 5km walk up and then down Etna), and they only planned to stay the one night.

 

215 – Saturday 21st November 2015:  Taormina and Pizza

Second attempt to reach and park in Taormina was successful.  Dad drove in the small hire car … we discovered the rear suspension had gone.  It groaned and growled over every bump and particularly did not like the tight hairpins.

Taormina is very pretty, nestled on rocks above the sea.  Restaurant and shops, a small Duomo and lots of small narrow side streets.  Nice, but must be horrendous in summer.

J tour guide for the day and he has the correct book :)

J tour guide for the day and he has the correct book :).  We know where we are!!!

Rules as you enter Taormina .... Really?!?

Rules as you enter Taormina …. Really?!?

Part of the statue outside the Duomo

Part of the statue outside the Duomo

A little rest for the menfolk, as the women checked out a mosaic (unremarkable and up steps)!

A little rest for the menfolk, as the women checked out a mosaic (unremarkable and up steps), but at least we went to see!

Lots of quaint side streets.

Lots of quaint side streets.

J is Adam, eating Eve's apple .... it is the carving on the balcony.

J is Adam, eating Eve’s apple …. it is the carving on the balcony.

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Cactus hair

Cactus hair … the whole balcony had a family of cactus heads.

The Villa Communale was donated to th town by the Englishwoman Florence Trevelyan.

The Villa Communale was donated to the town by the Englishwoman Florence Trevelyan (could be of the Cornwall garden’s family).  Great views of Etna and the coast.

A kooky construction in the Villa Comunale that Ms Trevelyn used for bird watching.

A kooky construction in the Villa Comunale that Ms Trevelyn used for bird watching.

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We chose not to have coffees or lunch in the Wunderbar Cafe where Taylor and Burton used to sip cocktails … not at EUR7.50 for an espresso!  Swordfish (again, but so good) for Mum and I, and pizza for Dad and James … sitting in the sun overlooking the coast.  Try not to feel too sorry for us!

Couldn't come to Italy and not have at least one pizza.

Couldn’t come to Italy and not have at least one pizza.

 

216 – Sunday November 22nd November 2015 – Traffic Report … Aci Trezza again and Catania

Planned:  A rendezvous in Aci Trezza (where we had previously overnighted) and then a bus to Catania … buses few on a Sunday so an early start.

Actual:  K and J arrived in good time at the harbour car park … Aged P’s back on form … Early.  Very early and had discovered that the published timetable on the web *updated Sept 2015* was incorrect, which it would have meant a long wait.  K stocked up on veggies at the small market and then Dad drove.

Catania:  Quiet roads and free parking.  Main highlight is the the Piazza del Duomo which is really attractive.

A Town Hall security guard with good English explained about the presence of the elephant statue in the square ... Hannibal was believed to have passed through and elephant remains were found under the square.

A Town Hall security guard with good English explained about the presence of the elephant statue in the square … Hannibal was believed to have passed through and elephant remains were found under the square.

The elephant symbol is also found on the city carriage which is only used annually in a February procession.

You'll have to wait till February for a lift!

You’ll have to wait till February for a lift!

Coffee and cake. Both J and Dad ended up waring the oozing chocolate!

Coffee and cake. Both J and Dad ended up wearing the oozing chocolate!

The town was flattened in an earthquake in 1693. so all the main buildings are C18 …. Baroque.

Some of the characterful gargoyles supporting balconies.

Some of the characterful gargoyles supporting balconies.

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Inside the Duomo: Buy your own plastic saint!!! Otherwise stare at the Cardinal's corpse - face mask but withered bejewelled hands.

Inside the Duomo: Buy your own plastic saint!!! Otherwise stare at the Cardinal Dusmet’s corpse in a glass coffin – he had a face mask but his withered bejewelled hands were there to see.

I want one of those! Child is happy: he has his own car. Dad is happy: he has the remote control!!!!

I want one of those!  Child is happy: he has his own car. Dad is happy: he has the remote control!!!!

The Roman baths under the Cathedral were shut and we did not fancy the Roman amphitheatre (a bit Roman Remains’d Out!), so we decided to return to Aci Trezzo for a risotto in Chardonnay. We picked up some fish on our way back to the car from the Pescheria:  a relatively expensive fish, but meaty and lots of flavour … no idea what , but not dissimilar to monkfish.

The fruit market leading to the fish market under the arches.

The fruit market leading to the fish market under the arches.

Aci Trezza:  Just getting here from Catania was an experience.  And one not to wish for.  Traffic everywhere.  The WHOLE of the region was out and about and all driving as badly as only Sicilians know how.  Once we got close to Aci Trezza we joined the back of serious traffic jam.  Everyone who was not in Catania had come here.  If one horn was beeped, then another, and then everyone had to join in.  Is it a herd mentality?  Everyone out in their car crawling along roads.  We assumed our car park would be jam packed … wrong!  Cars were scooting through hoping for a short cut and not parking.   K and J left the Aged P’s in the traffic queue to collect the food makings of a risotto, intending to take it up the the Aged P’s apartment and eat there.  Amazingly there were car park spaces – so what were all these people doing?  Just driving around?  Enjoying being in a traffic jam?   K started to cook in the van …. it must have been half an hour before the Aged P’s finally parked up.  Wine served immediately on arrival … medicinal.  Entertainment on hand as we watched cars try to pass in front of our nose for a short cut thorough the short cut of the car park, only to have to reverse as the only exit was into the water.  One young enterprising chap collected tips as he became the unofficial car park helper.

P1080253After lunch a little wander and into a cafe for dessert and coffee.  Another Tiramasu ice-cream, wine and a chocolate crepe.  K finally had a cafe correcto with Amoretto … expresso with a shot. 🙂

 

 

 

208 – 211: Picnics on the Coast and in the Hills

208 – Saturday 14th November:  Meal at ‘Home’ … How many units?

K shopped in Cefalu for the remaining food items and we drove to the Aged P’s apartment via (a half hour detour each way!) a motorway services that had motorhome services.  We are not sure that they wanted us to use the services as they had ‘no entry’ poles up, but we asked, smiled a lot, and they let us use them.  We could see why they were shut off.  Some people are just foul (literally!) …. excrement and wet wipes had been poured down the grey waste, when there was a perfectly good chemical toilet point.

Arriving at the apartment, K showered in luxury and K and J sorted the hand laundry (3 batches) that were still slowly drying on the balcony.  K cooked … all Sicilian recipes. We even had two different types of Marsala and two versions of Grillo white wine.  K blames her father for the toxic poisoned feeling she had the next day.  Thank you J for driving.

Chef at large ... in a pukka kitchen ... work space envy!

Chef at large … in a pukka kitchen … work space envy!

Dinner on the balcony.

Starters on the balcony.

View across to Cefalu

View across to Cefalu

209 – Sunday 15th November:

K started the day with two paracetamol 😦 .  How does Dad do it?!?  As we have a fridge and the picnic gear on board for a picnic, we picked up the Aged Ps and drove along the coast to two towns.

Santo Stefano di Camastra is known for its ceramics.  A locals’ town and busy with people out for a wander, coffee and greeting each other.  We liked it.

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Ceramics everywhere, even on the park fence under some winter jasmine

Ceramics everywhere, even on the park fence under some winter jasmine

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We caught then end of the band and the majorettes.

We caught then end of the band and the majorettes.

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We picnicked along side the sea …. and stayed for a couple of hours … peaceful, sun and sea… what’s to hurry for?

Castel di Tusa was less interesting … pretty fishing boats and rocks with the late afternoon glow.  It is known mostly for being the start of a contemporary (odd!) art trail.  And there was no gelateria open – a major failing!

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J's arms aren't long enough to give some support!

J’s arms aren’t long enough to give some support!

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210 – Monday 16th November:

Up to the hills today.  Caccamo: lies under a Norman castle, overlooking a lake, with lots of pretty church squares on different levels.  It was only supposed to be 10km from the motorway, but Brad (nice but dim Sat Nav) took us the scenic route up when K was driving (hairpins and a felled tree blockage) and a direct and quick route back when J was driving …. sexist?

It took a matter of minutes for these chaps to clear the road .... they moved fast. And hurled massive heavy trunk segments into the verge to allow traffic through.

It took a matter of minutes for these chaps to clear the road …. they moved fast. And strong as they hurled massive heavy trunk segments into the verge to allow traffic through.

When we approached the castle, an elderly gent scurried out of his museum / tasting shop and explained that despite all the guide books stating the castle was open on Monday it was not …. to be honest, we had completely forgotten that all the museums shut on Mondays …. duh!  He was so charmingly earnest that we took him up on his free tasting.  Why are these things never free … you feel beholden to buy something.  The Aged Ps left with a pistachio pesto for pasta and a prickly pear (cactus fruit) grappa for Grumps … K with jam for M and the pistachio pesto.  We LOVED the sweet tastings of lemon and pistachio …  but what would we do with them … none of us bake cakes etc.  Tempting as it is to buy and just eat from the jar on a spoon!

The elderly gent explaining the closed castle and offering the free tastings.

The elderly gent explaining the closed castle and offering the free tastings.

An ancient pasta press in the elderly gent's museum

An ancient pasta press in the elderly gent’s museum

Charmingly proud of his town

Charmingly proud of his town

We had a quick wander of the town and then had another long picnic – in the sun admiring the view.

Buildings clinging to the hill side

Buildings clinging to the hill side

Seriously clinging to the rocks

Seriously clinging to the rocks

An Englishman Abroad hat!!!

An Englishman Abroad hat!!!  For those that don’t know us … James is Irish.

Madonna and skull!!!

Madonna and skull!!!

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Lunch View :)

Lunch View 🙂

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Back to the Aged P’s apartment for supper … strange looking fish: spatola – silver scabbard fish … pretty tasteless, but we were just relieved it was not eel – none of us care for the oiliness.

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211 – Tuesday 17th November:  Moving East: Just North of Catania

The Aged P’s second apartment is just north of Catania, near Aci Trezzo.  K and J re-vistied the motorway services as there seem to be a lack of OPEN motorhome services.

Free motorway across the centre of Sicily:  rolling hills.  If it were not for the vegetation, it could have been the UK Dales.  We plan to spend a bit of time visiting the central mountains.

Lots of motorway sections are propped up on stilts. Italy must me a major concrete consumer. Hilltop Enna on the horizon.

Lots of motorway sections are propped up on stilts. Italy must be a major concrete consumer. Hilltop Enna on the horizon.

Etna and orange groves

Etna is visible from a long way off, wisps of smoke atop.  Approaching Catania, it is flatter with orange groves.

K and J ‘negotiated’ part of Catania and then a few too many near miss / awkward reversing / tight turns of Aci Castello.  Fortunately for K, J was driving, so she alighted several times and spotted for him.  Onto Aci Trezzo, which is quite close to the Aged P’s apartment and down a few more narrow roads … Oh Joy … a harbour with a free car park.  It is always reassuring to be near another motorhome … Belgian Knaus next door.  we communicated in French.  The first thing our neighbour said was how horrendous the narrow roads were! Yep, I said …. we were going to celebrate arriving with a glass of wine!  We duly found a bar and people watched.

A water canoe polo practice - entertainment right on our front porch!

A water canoe polo practice – entertainment right on our front porch!

Stop press:  J just called me outside… fish jumping.  Right outside our front porch, again.  Fat cat lurked and nabbed one as they landed on the lava rocks.

 

 

 

201-202: Paestum and Sunday Rest

201 – Saturday 7th November 2015:  Paestum – Not all Greek

A few pics from yesterday …

Possibly the largest back pack - ever

Possibly the largest back pack – ever

Sunset over the pitch we had to flit from

Sunset over the pitch we had to flit from

Drink in the local bar before supper .... note leather armchairs and a real fire ... we could be at Rothbury!

Drink in the local bar before supper …. note leather armchairs and a real fire … we could be at Rothbury!

One of the Greek Temples cc. BC 450

One of the Greek Temples c. BC 450

We had a really peaceful night amongst the olive groves.  

We had a really peaceful night amongst the olive groves.

A short drive to the Paestum parking we had left as our EUR5 ticket was still valid.  We drove around the parking and successfully retrieved one of J’s crocs, that he had left in our scramble to implement our evacuation plan.  Lucky, eh?

It feels like we have done a lot of archaeological sites in the last week, but Paestum has three Greek temples as well as Roman excavations.  The temples are often in Italy tourist advertising and predate the Roman.  BC450 ish … so amazing to be walking around structures that were built and used nearly 2,500 years ago.  In places you can still see the architectural details.

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Roman: a double stone roof

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The Greek temples were just huge

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You can just make out J bottom left, which gives some idea of scale.

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Architectural detail.

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We lunched in the car park and set off, heading south. Across a peninsular and then along the coast road.  The first part was pretty grim … ugly and tatty summer tourist bars and campsites, only inhabited by about 30 prostitutes and the passing (or not passing) traffic.  Soon it was mostly stunning:  stacks and smarter villages clinging to the rocks, bays and beaches.

We missed our intended pitch as we looked for a supermarket … comedic moment when K asked two parked Carabinari and a local chap for directions and they all spoke at once and tried to out do each other in helpfulness!  We then missed a turning and ended up climbing 5km up a mountain in the dark … Brad the Sat Nav wanted us to turn around …. no chance in an 8m van and on hairpin bends!  A the top we finally found somewhere to turn and headed for a nearer parking K found.

These things are meant to be …. beachside and fantastic!  Our lovely Austrian neighbours came for a couple of days and are still here 8 days later!  They warned us about the noise from a nightclub not far away so we followed them to another carpark overnight and then we moved back in the morning.

 

202 – Sunday 8th November 2015: Praia di Mare – A Day of Rest and Remembrance

We both ran in the sun along the front … J 5km with some speed 🙂  We wandered down the beach to look at the sea and both had a simultaneous thought … let’s stay all day and move on tomorrow.

We have had a lovely day …

  • we swam
  • K transcribed lots of free parkings in Sicily from a book loaned by our Austrian neighbours
  • we read
  • a little walk in the other direction
  • J took pix of the sun set
  •  …. and we just sat in the sun and grinned at each other.
View from our waterside pitch

Black sand

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We are the far left van … you can see how busy it is … NOT!

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View from our waterside pitch

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Sadly we have been watching a hillside fire … it does not seem to have eaten any of the houses.