2011-2027: Zorba Repatriation And Unexpected Events

2011-12-: Preparation and Planning

Thursday 2nd & Friday 3rd September 2021

Another early start to drop Jez back into Abacus for more work to be done … we coffee’d and walked locally into an Andover Park as we didn’t have the car.  Late afternoon arrival back at our usual 5 pitch C&CC site, Woodlands Farm.  

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Replacement rear view and reversing camera …  the last one had fogged over.  Driving a nearly 5 ton vehicle with no rear view is not ideal!

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Lots of resident deer at the farm … mostly Roe and a few Fallow.

The background to this trip is that cars can only remain in the UK for 6 months or they have to be imported.  6 months would be up at the end of October and we also had a load of belongings to take across to the house in Crete.  J’s consultant had not argued about us going to Ireland for J’s daughter’s wedding, but had said no to him travelling to Greece.  So he was going to stay home (in Jez) with CO2, whilst I took Zorba and stuff to Crete.

Zorba the Greek car was collected from the Aged P’s.  Well, eventually.  He didn’t want to start.  A new battery in May, so not that.  Jump started off the Merc.  No power steering.  Googled and apparently it is usual for electronics to go haywire on jump starting.  Switched off and jump started again … power steering worked this time.  Back at the Farm, he was then emptied and all the boxes re-sorted to reflect the fact that James’ heart surgery would mean us staying in the UK IN WINTER.  Then reloaded.  All the PLF and transit rules done and understood.  Route plotted.

Maddy, my daughter co-driver was put on the insurance.   Plan well and truly sorted …. Maddy and I would catch the late afternoon overnight ferry on 6th Sept from Ancona to Patras.  4 hours to do a 2 hour drive to catch the next overnight ferry to Crete, arriving early on 8th. Maddy’s boyfriend, Jordan, flying in on 10th.  All to fly back on 17th.  Friends rate my planning.  They’ve not met my mother or sister, who are scary when it comes to planning, but what could possibly go wrong?!

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Fully laden … no room for you Oscar!

2013: Refusual at the First Hurdle

Saturday 4th September 2021

Final check of all paperwork and in the afternoon I set off to collect Maddy from Farnborough.  Zorba wouldn’t start again, so another jump start and I took the jump leads with me!  I got quite adept at accosting men in car parks to allow me to jump start from their cars! … Tesco as I collected a prescription for J and then Halfords to buy a lithium jump starter pack.  This will be fine, really, honestly, I told myself.  We can just jump start our way across Europe!  Then once there, I’ll take Zorba into the garage to have starter motor and alternator checked.  

Maddy drove back down to Chichester to get used to a left hand drive manual car on the wrong side of the road and parked nose out so we could jump start it again!  We had supper at the Aged P’s as our Tunnel crossing not until 0230.  We thought they’d probably put us on the next available train if we arrived early, so we got in the car to set off …. awful grinding and whining noise.  Then deathly silence.  A similar noise to the last time Zorba had to be low loadered to the garage for new injectors.  Zorba really wasn’t going anywhere.  The whole point of the trip was get Zorba back to Greece and was refusing!  I was on the verge of aborting, until I looked at Maddy’s face … she and Jordan were really looking forward to a holiday.  Decision … a fast decision.  I’d take the Merc.  At least our stuff would get over to Greece and I could bring back some winter clothes, not that we have many!

If you’ve never tried emptying a roof box, removing it … fixing it to another car and reloading it in PITCH DARK …. don’t!  It really isn’t the easiest thing to do.  But we managed it and it did stay on!  The Merc’s seats down, the inside was filled to the gunwales.  Interestingly it is less capacious that the Skoda Roomster – aptly named.  Excess boxes and bags were relocated to the Aged P’s garage … despite their downsizing house move and being told they didnt have room to store our stuff!  Ooops!

Slightly frazzled we made it to the Tunnel in plenty of time and did catch and earlier train at 12.45 p.m.

2014: Tyre Pressure but not Tired

Sunday 5th September 2021

One of the benefits of travelling across the EU on Sunday is that most countries ban trucks unless they are refrigerated goods, so the roads are relatively empty.  Our route was toll free through Belgium and Luxemberg, re fill with cheap diesel, and then toll free through France to Basel.  Bought a vignette for Switzerland and used the free Gotthard tunnel during Sunday night.  As Maddy had not been put on the insurance for the Merc, I was driving overnight.  Once offices opened, we tried to get her on my insurance … no, my ex pat insurance will not cover anyone under 25.  No go with her insurance either as they won’t cover 3rd party on other vehicles if under 25.  We ended up paying for expensive day insurance that ran for 24 hours so she did a couple of good stints behind the wheel.

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 It got warmer as we moved south … layers were peeled off….

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… and hair tied back … the air con doesn’t work, so windows had to be opened.  I found another use for a mask to keep my hair from blowing in my face.

A few weeks ago we’d had a tyre warning light come on … nail … tyre repaired.  However, having inflated the tyres for a heavy load, the warning light came on again.  Every time we stopped, I was having to check and re-inflate.  Could anything else go wrong?

Having made good time with only a few nanny naps, we stopped in Como and had a proper restaurant supper.  Well deserved.  We had made such good time we had some big nanny nap stops that later that night.

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Maddy had pizza, but my swordfish with caponata was lovely.

2015-2116: Killing Time and Missing the Next Ferry

Monday 6th & Tuesday 7th September 2021

We had made such good time, having allowed for holdups …. but we even managed to get past Milan before the rush hour and so arrived in Ancona at 9.00 a.m.  We parked up at a Motorhome stop that J and I have used a number of times … formerly Auchan, but a few other shops and cafes.  Breakfast and lunch … Maddy clothes shopped, of course!

We drove down to the port mid afternoon.  Paid for our tickets … only to be told the online office had incorrectly used previously bought tickets, but it did mean we paid less than we thought.

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The ship was late in … they didnt send the the text offering me alternative dates until after we had sailed!

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All these trucks did eventually make it on board….

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… meanwhile, I consumed a few of these.  It was Cretan wine, after all.

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We treated ourselves to serviced dining … if you can call it that!  Linen table napery, but rubbish food and service and very expensive.  J and I have never eaten on board before as we’ve the dogs, but never again.  And the cabin stank of ammonia … obviously the toilet tanks needed cleaning out!  The food was almost enough to make you gag, but the cabin stink certainly was!

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Fortunately we’d brough our own brunch.

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With time to kill on the 22 hour crossing, we dyed our eyebrows!

The ship was 4 hours late into Patras so no hope of catching the next overnight ferry.  Oops … my carefully laid plan!  Before we docked, Maddy was onto a booking site and found us a beach hotel for about £50.  We had a lovely supper at a neighbouring restaurant.  A fraction of the price compared to onboard too.  Before we left the port, we found the Minoan office and rebooked our Pireas – Chania ferry for the following evening.

2017: Tourist Day

Wednesday 8th September 2021

The ferry from Pireas was less than 2 hours away and didn’t depart until evening, so we had all day to kill.  We thought about sunbathing …. but it was grey with showers.  Tourists, it was to be.  We drove up the mountains to Kalavryta to a holocaust museum.  I’d been before with J and the Aged P’s but had found it very moving.

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Video recordings of some of the now grown up survivors and girls told of their first hand experiences, making it very real.  Descriptions of how the women and children tried to identify their family and then dig graves with bare hands in the frozen soil, as all the tools had been destroyed when the Germans burnt the all the houses.  Just as moving as the first visit.

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View from the hill were the men and boys were mown down and now where many still lay.

 Maddy is rather fond of Corrie (Oscar too sometimes!) and wanted to see where we had found her.  I think she rather hoped we would see a close relative of Corrie that she could adopt … don’t know who she thought would look after it with her about to go off to Kings to do her Masters!  Fortunately, this time, Accorinth was bare of strays.

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James and I have stayed here twice later in the year so never seen it so dry.  It was about to close, so we only had a quick wander.

This ferry left on time AND the cabin did not stink.  And we’d taken our own picnic, so altogether a better and shorter crossing.

2018: Cleaning Day

Thursday 9th September 2021

We were up in plenty of time to have a coffee on deck and watch the approach into Chania port.  And with no more set backs, we were straight off and within 20 minutes we parked by our house.  Before we unpacked the car, we had to clean.  It had been empty since end April, but unwelcome residents had moved in!  Yep, stink worms and cockroaches again, especially in the basement where Maddy was to sleep.  So debugging and bleaching started at 0630!  Once Maddy’s bed was made, she climbed into it and I continued the clean moving up the house … she gave me a hand for the last bit and then we unloaded the car and roof box.

With the house pretty much in order, we had supper Almyrida with Gillian … lovely to try a restaurant that has been shut whilst we have been in residence during the winter.

2019-2024: A Holiday

Thursday 9th – Thursday16th September 2021

Jordan arrived the next day, so he and Maddy spent a few days sunbathing.  He is very fair (strawberry blond!) and used more than a tube of factor 50.  We went into Chania, I collected a ring a jeweller friend of a friend had replaced the stone.  I hired a car for Maddy for 2 days and they had an overnight in Rethmyno and visited Knossos Palace.  We ate out a lot … with friends, including a Sunday tea party in aid of animal charities: we ate our body weight in cake!  I also spent some time visiting car dealerships … after a summer forking our thousands on cars, we had decided we really do need a reliable car.  It needs to be Greek as we will be in Greece for more than 6 months each year and big enough to transport us and CO2 to and fro to the UK.  Short list of a Hyundai Kona and Suzuki Vitara … need to test drive and J to look at them in the UK.

On his own in the UK, J dog walked and waded through a pile of admin and jobs.  He had use of my sister’s car for a week and ate in a few pubs and at my parents … just as well as he’s a can’t cook won’t cook man.  I’d left him a few frozen soups and casseroles …. honest!

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 Almyrida with all the sun umbrellas out. 

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I got to walk and run one of our favourite local walks … Plaka head.

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On the way to one of my favourite restaurants, we stopped for a sundowner overlooking Almyrida.

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Chania.

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One of our meals in Eleanora’s.

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Maddy and Jordan flew out lunchtime on Thursday.  Think they had a good time, as they spent most of the previous day trying to work out how they could stay!  Having cleaned their room, I dined back up the hill with friends …. it really was fabulous to see friends after 5 months.

2025: The Return Journey Commences

Friday 17th September 2021

With the ‘children gone I completed the cleaning and got all my paperwork in order.  Rather hoping for an incident free trip as I was doing the return leg solo.

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I treated myself to a good late lunch in Chania at Salis restaurant which has been recommended by Ann … wonderful fish followed by two flavours of ice cream  Didn’t realise each was an entire pudding … I was offered two spoons lol!  Dill ice cream with strawberry jam and watermelon with pickled rind … both delicious.

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To save a little money, I’d booked an airplane reclining chair instead of a cabin … only an overnight crossing … medicine to help me sleep!

2026: Patras Tourism

Saturday 18th September 2021

Arrival in Pireas early morning and I drove to Corinth … I’d booked an antigen test there at 10.00.  I had a walk and beachside coffee beforehand.  Test was only EUR10, so a bargain compared the Kalives ones that Maddy and Jordan had had at EUR25 each.

Still with lots of time to kill, I drove to Patras.  Despite sailing in and out, we’ve never actually gone into the town centre.  I walked up a massive flight of steps to Patras castle … arriving as a sweaty puddle.  The first thing I did once on board was shower!  Fortunately I’d a cabin for this 22 hour crossing to Ancona.  Very few tourists, no British again and mostly truck drivers.  At Pireas the lorry loads were being clambered all over by a private security firm looking for immigrants.  I’d had to open the rear doors and boot.

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Patras Castle steps were right at the end of this boulevard.

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View from Patras Castle. 

2027: Mostly Bored On-Board

Sunday 19th September 2021

Straight off the boat in Ancona and I’d not had to show my double tax cert or even my passport.  More docs had to be presented from Crete to the mainland.  Being Sunday afternoon, I knew to expect traffic heading up to Milan and Como, but there were quite a few road works too.  I got my head down for a bit and then it was plain sailing back through the Gotthard Tunnel at just after midnight and Switzerland.

 

2028: A Good Run and a 3rd Ferry

Monday 20th September 2021

A pretty straight run up to Calais, with another cheap fuel stop in Luxemberg.  On one morning stop, I booked my day 2 Covid test, did the Gov PLF and booked the ferry.  Not used a Channel ferry in years as a) I remember lots of times where I felt sea sick (funnily enough don’t on the Greek ferries), and b) you have to leave the dogs in the car.  This time, I booked DFDS as it was a lot cheaper than the Tunnel at short notice and with a Flexi ticket I could turn up 72 hours either side of my booked crossing and be put on the next available ferry.

I arrived a day earlier than I’d booked and caught the 5.30 ferry. Again largely empty other than trucks.  The hour and a half passed really quickly as part of the Flexi ticket bonus is that I had a meal voucher.

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DFDS chicken curry free … as part of my ticket.  OK it was too … better than Minoan / Grimaldi!

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A meal with a view.

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Before I knew it, Dover in sight.

I got hauled over in Dover … why and where had I been.  Was this my car? etc.  I handed over V5, passport, Greek residency, Greek Tax number, Greek rental agreement and explained why and where I’d been.  He conferred with colleagues and checked my boot and I was allowed to leave.  

Back home to James and CO2 by 9.00 UK time.

So this return drive was just over 3 days door to door, with 3 ferries, 2 of which were overnight.  1125 miles door to door.  963 miles in 24 hours including nanny naps from Ancona to Calais.

Was it hard?  No, not really.  Audio books kill the journey.  More fun coming out with Maddy.

Would I do it again?  Yes, if need be.

Maddy and Jordan got a holiday.

We got most of our ‘stuff’ from the Aged P’s old house to Crete.

I saw some friends.

Failed on getting Zorba out of the UK  … Since our return the garage has established that the diesel pump must be disintegrating to cause the new injectors to fail and the battery was also not being charged …. so he is definitely for the scrap heap.  Not one of our better buys.

981-986: Nothing Naff in Nafplio!

981- Thursday 8th February 2018:  Nothing Naf in Nafplio

Now then readers – where do motorhomes come from? They’re not Greek or Roman (even Romahomes – or DunRoamins) – although as we are in Greece – we do like our fiery engined chariots….. No – I can exclusively reveal all – no, not that all please!  As you know, current motorhome manufacturers previously built caravans….  One day long ago three young people who built caravans got together in a wine bar – drinking Gluevine, Ouzo and Sambuka (as you do).  Their names were – Frau Harriet Hymer, Dinky Dethleffs and Randy Rapido….  They scratched their dandruff and thought “how can we make the business leaner and meaner (and get more money?).  Randy said “let’s put a washing machine engine in the front of the caravan?”. So, a brand new Miele 500 cc unit was gaffa taped to the front (on top of the tow bar). The dream was born – and the first purchasers could spin dry as they raced/rinsed around hairy mountain bends!!!  If anyone comes up with a better story – I will eat a grommet from our on board twin tub – which is not a Miele – it’s a Schaffer from 1767 (get your Googles out).  In 1767, Captain Samuel Wallis became the first European to visit Tahiti – and Daniel Boone reached Kentucky – why?  He wanted some fried chicken, perhaps…
What’s that got to do with Nafplio, you ask?  Well…to be honest – not a lot.  Nothing naf about Nafplio – it’s gorgeous – lovely harbour, shops – and people. Coffee in the sun in the town square – walking along the front….  Our Airbnb host had recommended a fish restaurant a few km away – off we went – on his local knowledge, we were well looked after…..
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Feels like a lagoon, but Nafplio is a large bay.
 
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The Bourzi island was originally a fortress, then the local executioner’s residence and then a hotel … go figure what all the ‘guests’ had in common!
 
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982- Friday 9th February:  Corinth – Ancient and Canal

K here, as I was the one that went in with the Aged P’s.  J stayed walked Oscar.  To be honest, Ancient Corinth was a bit of a disappointment.  So much of it had been knocked down and built over by the Romans, and then knocked down again by an earthquake.  The Odeon and Amphitheatre are viewed from the roadside and are certainly not the finest examples.  The Temple of Apollo and the cistern with its tunnels were worth seeing.  The museum was memorable as in 1990, thieves broke  in, wounded and tied up the guard and ‘removed’ 274 artefacts.  Most were recovered in Miami, USA, by the FBI.  The history is probably what makes Ancine Corinth so well known … it was a major capital, allied with Sparta and then against Sparta, allied to Athens and more interestingly, a reputation for licentious living, which St Paul attacked when he visited.
The Corinth Canal is deep (average 8 metres) and sheer in places (see photos).  We drove the far west end of the canal and had a road side / car park picnic.  It was a tad windy, and sadly we did not see any ships along the canal in the whole time we were there.  I know Carol and Mike didn’t see any passage either … perhaps it is just cruise / tourist ships in summer.
We used Maps.Me and spotted a private bridge over the canal.  We drove around there and were able to walk right over the centre of the canal.  The only down side was the smell, as the bridge carried sewage to the adjacent sewage works!
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Temple of Apollo in Ancient Corinth
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The Peirene Fountain with water channels off.  Rituals and ceremonies also took place here. 
 
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Picnic at the west end of the canal.  A tad windy so we did not linger. Pudding was fresh oranges from a neighbour at the house.  We didn’t steal… it was a gift, honest!
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Handsome boy.
 
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The Diolkos – paved road – the Romans unloaded ships and hauled the ships across this 4 mile flagway.  Safer than sailing around the Peloponnese…
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… This pix from the museum shows surprisingly large ships being hauled across.
 
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Amazing detail … a dressing table mirror.
 
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Such long toes!
 
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Such detail.
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From the smelly bridge.  Looking west.
 
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Who let the lunatics out?

983- Saturday 10th February:  Coffee and Lunch Mystery Tour

J’s turn to scribe … “Magical Mystery Tour” a la Katherine and her superb coordinary coordinates!  A Pyramid that looked like some large stones in a roughly shaped minyprid…..  A lake that was – a bit short of water…. Lunch with the locals (always a good idea) – while it rained outside – our repast was not dry…..   A coffee along the coast whilst sitting next to a roaring fire followed by a meze lunch … and the rain pretty much dogged us all day.

K:  what J does not reveal is that my data entry into the sat nav was flawed, we ended up in a neighbouring town, down a narrow lane and had to reverse a long way … thankfully we were in a car and not Jez.  We also managed to pass the rock church our destination … before realising it was our destination!

The house central heating wasn’t working so Grahame lit the fire with logs provided by the owner…. later, we foraged locally to find more ‘lumber’ (American?) to feed the hungry beast – we were toasty…..

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A pyramid, we think it was 4BC
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Church built into a rock overlooking a lake.  Actually a non lake.  Locals used to wash their carpets here, but now farmers take too much of the ground water further up, the lake is dry … so dirty carpets?
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You don’t get a fire like this in a motorhome!  or if you do, you have a problem!!!!  The heating problem was solved … lack of oil, but our AirBnB host sorted it promptly :).

984- Sunday 11th February:  Mycene

Again, I went in and J kept O away from the local barking hounds.  The setting is superb, a cliff on one side and mountains. This is one of the earliest examples of a citadel and was inhabited from 1700-1100BC.  The Tholos tombs here were stunning.  Huge and built as a circle and dome roof and then covered over with earth; they are no longer buried.  The Royal Palace was at the top and only nobles lived inside the walls.
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The main city is up a hill, again protected by hills on several sides.
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Tholos tomb of Clytemnestra.
 
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Bits of script were preserved due to a fire as the ‘slates’ would have been soft.
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I have conquered!
 
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Looking up out of the cistern.  A secret stairway of 99 steps, but visitors can only access as few.
 
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Postern Gate … a side gate – we had to look up the meaning of postern!
 
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The Lion Gate 13BC … we were lucky to photo this with no other visitors, as Mycene was quite busy with an American tour group and several school parties.  Mycene was always known about as part of the gate poked up above ground.
 

 985 – Monday 12th February:  Epidaurus

Massive amphitheatre – 12,000 people – and good other archaeological remains to see.  Most of the site was given over to Asklepios and healing.
Lunch – of course (at Epidural Beach – sorry, Epidaurus Beach). Many little courses – with no alcohol (for us) as it’s a dry day….
However, as the Aged Ps booked to visit us in ‘the Bulge’ – Bulgaria in Late July- we celebrated – with vino collapso (with no collapso)!!!

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The theatre is used for classical performances in the summer.  330BC.
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The Greeks had it seating 6000, the Romans doubled the capacity.  Ear wigging an English speaking guide, I discovered that Greek theatres have circular stages, but the Romans semi-circles.  Also the Greeks ‘invented’ theatre.  Followers of Dionysos celebrated with inebriated role playing and moved from dancing to theatre … the first purpose built buildings appearing in late 6BC.
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It may have been a healing centre, but exercise and games took place too.
 
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The water front stroll before lunch.

986 – Tuesday 13th February:  A Non Train Ride

We planned to travel on the Kalavryta-Diakofto railway at EUR19 each … their loss as no dogs.  So we drove there – only an hour and a half.  The   road followed some of the route the train would have, so some good views on the way up.  Good cafe break.  The Museum to the local Katarya WW2 holocaust was disturbing but it’s a must – ’no more wars’ – defitiely!  Sad news that old Leslie family friend (95) had fallen at home and may be failing – hope not – more news tomorrow – fingers crossed…
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The Germans planned reprisals against hill towns due to the partisan activity in the area.  They took all the men and boys over 13 up a hill and machine gunned them down.  The women and children were locked in the school and the building was set alight.  The women broke out and the German soldiers on duty there did not shoot, but herded them down hill.  In the morning, the women discovered the hill side strewn with bodies.  This was December and freezing, and they had to use any tools they could find and their bare hands to dig shallow graves for their menfolk.  A film with English subtitles followed the story with clips from survivors, who had been young children at the time.  It was immensely moving.
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The hillside where very few have proper headstones.
 
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Families were buried together.  Ages here were 55, 19 and 48.  One survivor talked about burying his father, 3 bothers and his brother in law together and the discussions about how to lay them out.   Lanterns marking burials were nameless.  The museum guide said 669 were massacred, the guide book quotes 1436.  The Germans moved onto neighbouring villages, shooting on sight.
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986 – Wednesday 14th February:  Nafplio, Fort, Karathona Beach and Another Good Lunch

Kitty car drove us to Nafplio Castle/Fort – stunning views.  Oscar doggy walk on Karathona Beach (overnight motorhomers have been moved on by the police recently … shame as a superb quiet spot).  Another excellent lunch in Napflio (recommended by Dimitrios) – finished off with coffee and Metaxa.

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Karathona beach … we’ve seen a few signs of getting ready for the summer season.