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About Clunegapyears

Travelling around Europe with James in our motorhome. And now solo, with friends

Day 55: NEW Valamo Monastery and Koti National Park

55.  Friday

Thank you Matti from Mikkeli in the Lakeland area for the monastery suggestion.  Indeed, many thanks for all your suggestions – they are a large part of our route planning.

We overnighted last night at one of the Valamo Monastery car parks.  As usual adjacent to water, but unusually, we had company.  A Finnish van and a Spanish one – even further from home than us.

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After our now regular feature of run and Nork (J up to 3 miles :), we visited the Monastery.  We were not quite sure what to expect as last night we googled a bit about it … lots of intrigue: sackings of head Priest and Financial Director, then reinstatement of both, then sacking again … financial short falls … expanding into whisky making (ready in 2018).  However, is was interesting and the female volunteers really helpful.  It is Finland’s only orthodox monastery and was originally in part of Karelia in Russia and the monks had to flee during the Winter War of 1939 and settled the monastery here – hence now called the NEW Valamo Monastery.  The original church was constructed out of two sheds and the new one was completed in 1977.  In both there are lots of gilded icons, which contrast with the wooden rustic walls of the old church or the white of the new.

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The plan was then to do a decent walk around Koli National Park – we even splashed out EUR2 on a walking map.  Both feeling lazy, so parked up (next to our Spanish neighbours of last night), caught the free funicular to the hotel complex at the top of Ukkko-Koli (the tallest mountain in the Park) and then all of 300 metres (up stairs!) to the summit.

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Seriously LARGE ant hill made from pine needles!

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All the lakes feature islands

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Not cross … squinting!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now parked up (by water) at Nurmes as will visit the Bomba House here tomorrow (another Matti suggestion :))

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Day 54: Largest Timber Church and more exercise, even logging!

54: Thursday

We started with another up and at ‘em exercise for us both:  James a run and K day 2 of Norking.  Since we were parked by it, we went looking for the underground caverns that housed an art gallery and a concert hall …. a local sadly advised that it had gone bankrupt and was now closed.  Shame for the area as there was a water park, holiday hostels, other art galleries etc and the caverns must have been quite a tourist pull.

A short drive to one of the best churches we have ever seen.  It is the largest wooden church in the world.  The Reverend felt that nearly half the 12,000 residents should be able to attend church at the same time.  So it was built to accommodate 5,000 people in 1847.  Perched on top of a rise, it dominates the town, but the inside is really quite spectacular – the nave is 27 metres high and there are two tiers of balconies.  Even the organ is made largely of wood.  Although heaters were installed, they were insufficient to heat the church as well as being a fire risk, so a smaller church was built at the rear.  This main church is used in summer and at Christmas, when it is lit by candle light (fire risk?!  But must look wonderful).

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One of the 8 heaters

One of the 8 heaters

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Wooden organ

Wooden organ … no comments, thanks!

High nave

High nave

Lovely view as J climbs the step and irregular steps

Lovely view as J climbs the steep and irregular steps

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The newer, smaller and warmer church extension - hidden at the back

The newer, smaller and warmer church extension – hidden at the back

One lot exercise being insufficient we headed up to Kolovesi National Park and did a 3.3 km walking trail.  Not far, I hear you cry, but actually this was the only trail on offer.  To get around most of the National Parks around here you need a boat, and neither of us fancies the expense of hiring, let alone the rowing effort.  The walk was not as arduous as in the Swedish High Coast, but still involved a little clambering.  Yet again, we were taken with the colours of the lichens, leaves and tree bark.  A few information boards along the route explained how cutting down any of the trees would have changed the ecology as the plant and animal species need dead and rotting wood and damp.  DAMP  should have been a warning to us …. our first encounter with mosquitoes.  James 4 and Katherine 0 bites … K so thankful J is so much tastier!

A real bonus was coming upon a small woodpecker pecking away surprising low down on the tree trunk, only about 3 metres from us.  Real shame the woodpecker was lost in the pics with the standard lens.

There was a perfect campsite beside the lake:  fire pit, free logs and earth toilet.  But J would not be persuaded to carry tent etc …  why should he when he has perfectly comfy mattress in Chardonnay?   He did compensate by doing some serious log splitting … do scroll down to the pics of ma man being manly!

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Perfect campsite ... regrettably not for us!

Perfect campsite … regrettably not for us!

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My hero!

My hero!

 

Day 53: Ravines, Lakes, Castle and Ridge

53. Wednesday:

Imatra Hydro Electric, Savonlinna and Punkaharju Ridge…

Up and out the door at 0715 hours – clucking bells, you howl!  J to run and K to Nork!  Technical speak for Nordic Walking.  Back for brekkie – flushed with righteous something, we (K) planned the day. First Frank-ly, we went to see Sinatra, actually Imatra – home to a massive hydro electric scheme (opened in 1929) and an impressive gorge – well  worth the stop.

Small dam

Small dam

Large Dam!!!

Large Dam!!!

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Now, we are in Finland’s Lakeland and National Parks – stunning lakes on every side – youze Irish – think Inishfree, Lough Arrow, etc.  We stopped at Savonleena to walk around the impressive fort built by the Swedish in the Middle Ages.  Shame not here in July as this is the Opera Festival.

Savonlinna Castle

Savonlinna Castle

There is an Ice Age ridge that we thought about walking/cycling but it’s a busy main road, so we won’t .. driven it so now seen it!

Parked for the night in a woodland area near the local Art Gallery – blogging !!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 51 – 52: Hail and Russia wins James’ Crown Jewels

51. Monday and a Travel Day

James ran for the second day on the trot … yeah!  Tidied up and collected the dry bedding and rest of the laundry.  Thankfully, the Laundry Room on the site had a warm drying room with lines strung across.  All facilities used:  we both showered (don’t know when our next might be!), emptied toilet and grey waste and full tank of fresh water.  Massive shop for us at the supermarket for staples such as water and juice – three massive bags full and only £72 … one does get used to looking at prices and budgeting … honest!  First lot of hail, yes the big cold lumps that come out of the sky!.  This is June right!

Ready to leave Helsinki.  We have both really liked it as a city … not too big and easy to get around and orientate.  However, it lacks some of the interest of Stockholm and Copenhagen – it only became the capital in 1812 and then was massively developed.  So the architecture generally has cohesion and the water makes it very attractive, but it misses out on the Royal Palaces and long history of some other capitals.  Worth 3 -5 days visit, if any of you are looking for destinations

We were definitely ready to leave the campsite. Chardonnay stayed on site 11 nights, James 7 and Katherine 5 nights.  We risked becoming soft and institutionalised (constant electricity from the hookup / hot showers on demand) had we stayed.

Drove to Porvoo:  2nd oldest city.  Sounded interesting as distinct districts … old town with wooden houses, red brick built warehouses from sea trade and the Empire area, developed under Tsar Nicholas I.  However, the Heavens opened as we arrived and dropped more hail on us.  So we lunched in Chard, and the hail kept coming.  Abort Porvoo.  Drove through the old town, up a random cobbled street to the Cathedral (Church really) on a hill.  And the skies cleared for a moment, so we were able to get out and take a look.  Very pretty and heated!

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Prove Church Bell Tower

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Typical old Porvoo narrow alley

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

More hail en route to Lappeenranta… parked up at a water front carpark … feels like home AND the sun had come out 🙂

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Our night time pitch

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Views across the lake

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Lappeeranta Chuch

 

52.  Tuesday:  Fortress and Saismaa Canal

Laapreenranta marina (we like marinas !) overnight – and at crack of dawn – well, 0900 hours – young James went off for a run – 3 days running in succession!  2 slow miles along the waterfront past some good sand sculptures – but for those SouWesteners – Weston-Super-Mud has little to be worried about…

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K+J went to admire the sculptures and then toured the Laapreenrantra fortress.  Like others of the genre, mostly craft shops and galleries – but quite tastefully done.

 

 

 

 

Good ship Chardonnay set sail for the Saimaan Kanal that has 17 deep locks from Saimaan Lake to the sea through Russia.  We cycled – Lady K was determined to bike it to Russia….  The spanner in the works (bad pun) was that James’ saddle was maladjusted – by a factor of 10-ish.  Technically speaking – it was sticking upward and impacting on the Crown Jewels!   With each downward stroke, a jewel was being squashed, technically speaking…  Enough of the cyclelogical gobbledegook!  We paused occasionally to watch massive tankers navigating the locks – once in the lock, you couldn’t fit a Crown Jewel between ship and dock wall.  After about an hour, James’ affected areas had turned a delicate shade of eau de nil! Time to abort Russia for now….

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Overnight and BBQ in the Kanal carpark – one Swedish motorhome parked also.  J’s anatomy returned to normal, assisted by some gin – K rubbed it on the, em, thingies… No photos.

 

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50.  Sunday

A bit of hand washing and capable me, helping out a gaggle of British ladies work the washing machines.  They are travelling as part of the Camping and Caravan Club, 19 strong motorhomes and caravans, for 5 weeks and off to St Petersburg tomorrow.  Been there.  Done that.  Box ticked (although we would LOVE to go back and see some more).

Metro into the centre.  James guided me around the small but perfectly formed City Museum which gave an overview on how Helsinki developed and some of the main names involved.  Carl Engel, who worked in Tallin, St Petersburg and then did the big re-design of Helsinki when Russia designated it as Finland’s capital.

Using our transport cards, we then caught the local ferry to Sumenlinna, the fortress island.  It was initially built by the Swedes as protection against the Russians in 1750 and then surrendered to Russia in 1808.  It is one of the main sights of Helsinki and even on a cool and very blowy day was very busy.  More info at:  http://www.suomenlinna.fi/en/

James in the map reading chair.

James in the map reading chair.

Is it really June?

Is it really June?

Main entrance

Main entrance

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We wandered back for a last time through the market by the dock and a quick look / NO BUY in Stockmann – the posh department store.

More washing:  had to book the machines for 6.00 and need to get it dry ready for our departure tomorrow.  Now, actually pleased it is so windy (the weather, not James!)