About Clunegapyears

Travelling around Europe with James in our motorhome. And now solo, with friends

607-612: Alfama Revisited and a Trip “Home”

Posted on January 30, 2017 by Clunegapyears

607 – Tuesday 24th January 2017: Chores and a Night Out!

I drove Alison to Lisboa Aeroporto at about 8:00 am – turned neatly to avoid a traffic queue on the Ring Road – and oops – it was the Airport turning. Never mind (I thought) – we will re-route….. we did get to the Terminal Building right on time. Hired car returned – we would drive a Ford Fiesta any time again…

K swung the Jez twin tub into action and the laundry flowed nicely. We decided to walk to Ikea to buy a clothes rack – why? Because it’s the Ikea experience? Now I escaped from Ikea twice in my life – it wasn’t easy – they have this arrow system to guide you to every single department – try defeating it – you need GPS – and balls!!! We followed the arrows and made our purchase meekly.

A date with Delia and the O’Riain family at a rooftop bar in downtown Lisbon – spectacular night-time views over the City and the 25th April Bridge. Later for a snifter – a kooky bar where 1960s pop music videos played.

On our return, Oscar was patiently sitting on the dashboard – he doesn’t miss much, our K9. And the coats were once more on the ground.

608 – Wednesday 25th: Alfama Revisited

Courtesy of K’s Iphone App, we had a walking tour of the Alfama district – wonderful narrow cobbled streets and the real Lisbon life – not totally unlike the back streets of Napoli…

Lunch outside on the street terrace of a small restaurant. I got chatting to an American lady from Denver with an English white Labrador – we talked about the logistics of taking dogs to the USA – she mentioned her dog sitter – whom she called her “dogger”!!! I just about refrained from enquiring about tasteful ‘exhibitionist’ sites in Denver… a language problem, doubtless.

Another lovely day in Lisboa…

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Igreja da conceicao Velha: one of the oldest churches in Portugal.

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At the lunch restaurant. 9 years in the dripping.

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looking across to the Monastery of Sao Vicente de Flora.

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A wider Alfama street, with washing and tiled houses.

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And a little narrower … a lot of steep slopes and steps.

K here … The Church Sao Vincente de Fora was large and not to our taste. It’s most striking feature was a massive, heavy, dark Baroque canopy over the alter – quite hideous and in the same style as the one in St Peter’s Basilica Rome. I left the ever faithful hound and James (both ever faithful and patient!) whilst I went into the monastery, which really was worth visiting. Unfortunately it was too near to closing time, so J did not get to go in.

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The ancient cistern.

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It is known for its blue C18 azulejos in every room and all around both floors of both cloisters.

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A Reliquary chest contain the remains of 7 Portuguese and Spanish missionaries killed in Morocco in 1585.

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The two tiers of one of the cloisters with the blue tiles.

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The monastery is the last resting place of the Monarchs of the House of Braganza. A stone woman praying by the tombs of King Carlos I and his son Luis Felipe assassinated in 1908.

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It really gives a WOW factor as you walk into the Pantheon (so I’ve learned that the definition is a group of famous or important people … here all dead!)

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On top of the Church’s roof looking across to the Castello Sao Jorge.

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And across to the 25th April bridge and the Cristo Rei – modelled on the Rio de Janeiro one and commissioned 1949-59 by the dictator Salazar.

Barbecue on site in the evening – accompanied by the traditional firedog…

(A little gem of kindness – K was talking to the site security manager about locations for pet shops – Oscar will need a fresh supply of food soon. He immediately offered to order some online from his home and have it delivered to the campsite! Portuguese people are the soul of generosity.)

609 – Thursday 26th: Is this Rain I see Before Me?

Somehow the dewfall migrated from the grass on to the roof and windows of the van – unbelievable! Or is it rain? The second time in 2 months in Portugal… This led to a slow start and some jobs around our home – to prepare K for her UK Winter experience for the next 2 days – arctic thermals at the ready!

610-612 – Friday 27th to Sunday 29th: K With Munchkin and the Aged P’s

K here. An early flight at 7.15: flight and train easy. A quick chat with the Aged P’s as they are resident at Clare and Chris’ house minding the dogs and children (when they are not out socialising – the teenagers that is!) whilst the C’s are off gallivanting under the guise of doing jobs in their French house … yes, I heard about the wine tasting :). Our car sits on the drive and Dad drives it and services it for us. He’d even pumped up the tyres yesterday for me. I know, I am spoilt! Maddy Munchkin was at work and not expected till 6.30, so I did shopping for e cigarette juice for J, wool for me and food for supper for M and I. I wallowed in the bath whilst listening to Little Women – an unabridged version and over 17 hours of listening. I haven’t even got to the part where Beth dies but I managed to add to the bath water level with a few weepy bits. M and I gorged chicken, chocolate and cheese and watched Maggie Smith in “Lady in a Van” … she really is the most amazing actor. Went to bed with a sore over full tummy.

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My Munchkin!

On Saturday we went to the Swindon Outlet shopping centre as I needed a coat that is warm and waterproof and a pair of ankle boots. I’d worn the old, not warm nor waterproof jacket and old running shoes home so I could leave them behind … forward planning eh? Between us we managed to come away with a coat and jumper each, a top and boots for me 🙂 And we managed to stay and shop despite the crowds as it was the last day of the sales … we neither of us like crowds. I stepped away from the £325 Musto bright orange coat … Maddy objected to the colour, which I loved, but I passed on the grounds of it being more suited to arctic weather, which we mostly tend to avoid.

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Was it an early start Maddy?

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Amazing to have caught the Aged P’s in the country … apparently 2016 saw them away from home 188 nights … they are currently on about 10 days home between S.A. and Las Palmas!

Supper at at Clare and Chris’ house with the dogs … and on Sunday the Aged P’s dropped me at Guildford to avoid the BR replacement bus. I was back home with “My Boys” by 1.30. Great to see Munchkin and the Aged P’s, and good to be home again.

A pottering afternoon. Full justification in bringing a twin tub with us … forced to use the campsite laundry as rain threatened and air damp .. two loads and each was a staggering EUR7.40 and drier 4.10!

605-606: Sintra: Lisbon Days 5 & 6

Posted on January 26, 2017 by Clunegapyears

605 – Sunday 22nd January 2017: Sintra and Sintrallated

An early start for us via the IC119 and hairpin bends to Sintra – magic fairyland palaces – and wall to wall sunshine although cool enough to be well wrapped up. AM saw us in the National Palace of Sintra. Rain over lunch saw us sheltering for soup and bad service in the Cafe Paris. Afternoon off to Monserrate. Sir Francis Cook took a leading part in the restoration of Monserrate Palace from 1858 and he became the Viscount of Montserrate. He was one of Britain’s 3 richest men and amassed a huge collection of art and classical sculptures – many of which we saw in the palace. See the black and white photo of his family.

There are large gardens, lake, springs, fountains and grottos. Lush greenery abounds with rare species of trees and plants. A photographers dream…

Palacio Nacional de Sintra

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Sintra Palace: Holiday home (and as a plague refuge from Lisbon) of the Royals since C13 and fairly uninspiring from the outside except for the two kitchen chimneys, which were originally built in C15away from the Palace due to the not inconsiderable likelihood of them setting fire to the palace.

Inside had some amazing C15 and C16 tiles and wonderful ceilings. This one has 27 gold collared swans. One ceiling of magpies … the story goes that the queen found the King trying to kiss one of her Ladies in Waiting … he replied with “Por bem” meaning all for the good. The queen forgave the King, but the ladies in waiting gossiped about it, so he had the celling repainted … one chattering magpie for each lady. And each with the inscription “Por bem”!

The Coat of Arms Room with the 8 children and 74 leading C16 family coats of arms … including the Costa shield, from which Alison’s family are descended.

The Chapel ceiling … C14 oak and walnut and very rare.

Monserrate Palace and Park

The park and use had been sold to the Government in 1949 and largely left to fall into rack and ruin. They have undergone extensive renovation and opened to the public in 2010. The gardens especially had a wow factor.

The Study.

The long corridor with the ground floor room off on either side. All the walls and ceiling had had the plasterwork repaired. Strong Gothic and Moorish influences.

Papa made his money from textiles and bought the palace in the 1850s as a summer holiday residence.

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605 – Monday 23nd January 2017: Sintra and Scintillated – again…

For the main Palacio Nacional de Pena, I walked up (some very steep hills) with Alison to the Palace – Alison’s tennis legs will have improved their stamina immensely – Roger Federer watch out!

K stayed with Oscar – who appreciates his very own Jez Palace – especially when it’s dogs dinner time! More sumptuosity and grandiloquence – we’re into the big words today, readers….

For the Moorish Castle, K and I swapped roles and K and Alison walked up – yes – more steep hills – for spectaculouruberantial views again.

Back down to Sintra old town for coffee and fountain photographs. Another splendid day by all.

Palacio Nacional de Pena

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The palace was built by the artist Ferdinand II from 1840 (Consort to Queen Maria II and grandfather to the assassinated King Carlos II … getting my head around Portuguese history now). He employed a German architect and you can see the Germanic influences in the towers. The interior is described as ‘kitsch’ and the rooms are pretty much left as they were when in use by Amelia for the short 2 years when used by Queen Amelia after her husband’s assassination and before she and her younger son fled to England.

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King Carlos II

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Castelo dos Mouros

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Some steep climbs around the reimports but with great views.

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We hunted out the two fountains described in our guide book … both still used for drinking water by locals. This one is the Fonte Mourisca – quite evidently.

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But this one is called the Fonte da Sabuga and the gide book describes it as …’ the water spouts from a pair of breasts’ … funny looking boobies!

Oscar’s Diary (2)

Hello folks

Yes it’s me again – I wasn’t sure about continuing, but I got 3 positive feedbacks – Boo, Poppy and Kensey – so that’s OK – we may not get to double digits (I suppose I could count the owners…).

We are still in Portogoose Land (K and J tell me) – not a portly goose in sight though. Anyway, what’s grease for the goose is sauce for the gander (I think). I must watch my sneezing this time – so no more shoe problems – actually, s’not a problem at all. My ‘owners’ are still developing nicely – I am trying some games with them – they don’t really fancy the ‘shoelace’ game – they tie the laces and I untie them – what’s wrong with that, I ask? I like it when I pretend to be bored and they get me to lie on my back and one of them tickles my tummy – I of course make suitable noises so they continue, James tried this game with Katherine lying on her back – she just laughed and the whole van was shaking… I think they have their own games… that’s OK, too.

I can’t quite figure out some of K’s little sayings – like when she bangs her finger on something – she says “f***k, arse bum tit!”. I think it’s a happy phrase – “never mind, eh?” – now I’m catching her ditties. We were in Lisboa yesterday in the Alfama area – great for alternative types like wot we are… Met a lovely lady from Denver in Coloradoshire – her dog (a Labrador) is called Jules. Now we played nicely on the cafe outdoor terrace – until Jules picked up my lead in her teeth and tried to take me for a walk on the street! I had to let her know who’s in charge – a man’s got to do what a man’s got to do and all that.

They’ve regressed in one area – leaving me on my own in the van again – I thought I had cured that by rearranging the furniture. This time, I sort of realigned K’s coats – to keep myself busy. How was I to know the sticky hook on the wall wasn’t properly glued on? Cheap soupergoo. She insists on leaving her full coffee beaker in my path when I’m walking across the dining table to get to the window? I couldn’t lick it all up without getting my snout stuck in the doorwell – so some evidence remained… kitchen roll is great – even when it wraps itself around my neck.

I hope I’m not painting a glum picture here – they’re really nice people (for humans) – OK not many of their kind have complete Kninesight – but they come close. Meals arrive on time generally and there’s lots of play time – so chins up – and doze to the grindstone, old chum…(time for a nap, now).

Happy travels all…

Oscar

604 – Alfama Lunch: Lisbon Day 4

Posted on January 23, 2017 by Clunegapyears

604 – Saturday 21st January 2017: Alfama and a Family Meeting

We planned to park in Alfama in the hire car BUT thank goodness we were not in Jez – we’d have got well and truly stuck. After a few about turns and re-routings we ended up parking a little distance away.

We walked seriously up hill to a couple of viewpoints and past the cathedral (Se in Portuguese) – it was only a 2* in Alison’s guide book, and I’m surprised it made a single star … really nothing to recommend it. We wandered into the Saturday Thieves Market …. bric a brac and crafts, but our time was limited as we had a major date … J’s sister Delia was in Lisbon with most (3 ) of husband Liam’s siblings and we were lunching together They meet up annually and P and D travel from Canada. A fantastic quality lunch and good craic!

Alfama is the district that the wealthy left as it was too rough, and is now one of the trendy spots … really narrow alleys with washing lines and lots of stairs. We worked off the lunch climbing up to Castelo de Sao Jorge. The guide books told us that the best views of Lisbon were from here, and they did not lie. We watched the sun go down over the 25th April Bridge. Would this have been another lovely day!

An excellent lunch.

Castello de Sao Jorge and a bit of Alfama.

603 – Bacalhoa Wine and Palace: Lisbon Day 3

Posted on January 22, 2017 by Clunegapyears

603 – Friday 20th January 2017: Moscatel Winery and Palace

I’d done a bit of research about a Moscatel of Sebetul tastings having acquired a bit of a taste for it. A useful English ex pat lady (http://juliedawnfox.com) had written up the Bacalhoa winery and I’d pre-booked a tour for us and Alison. At only EUR 6 each, we really did not know what to expect other than:

it had to be pre-booked
the owner had a private art collection which we would see
there was the winery and the palace and we needed a car as they were 3km apart.

HOWEVER …

We pulled into the carpark in plenty of time alongside a blue terracotta army! As we approached the reception, we were told that we would be doing the palace first and escorted in a mini bus. Off we set … out fellow English speakers were two Lithuanians accompanied by a Lisbon resident for the US. This proved to be another … ‘Goodness, how lucky were we’ moment, as the American lady not only brought all her visitors here and had visited 12 times on a tour, but knew the vinyard/palace/art collection owners and had been to parties here. Again, how lucky: our guide George was enthusiastic and took much longer than the tour planned. The Palace was crammed with gems of art. The owner of the vineyard had made his money extracting gold from waste rock in Africa and is the 9th richest man in Portugal … and with an amazing art collection. This is spread between his various properties and public museums, including one on Belem, which we’d seen the outside of yesterday. As well as tiles dating form Moorish times, there were paintings, sculptures etc. The gardens came alive under George’s explanations of the pleasure gardens … hidden courting benches, sailing on the pond and summer houses.

The American lady added odd snippets of insider knowledge about how the family made their money and having been thrown into the pond at parties.

After the palace, we were driven back to the winery … but wine had to wait … we were taken around the art galleries of the private collection. We were so close to the exhibits … in fact we had to tell Alison to put her hands in her pockets as she wanted to stroke everything … A slight wobble sound and Oh shit, from her had us seriously concerned at one point! The Art Deco has me wanting to redecorate … along with the marble bathrooms (see previous post)…. James, how do you feel about going back to work to pay for it all?

Finally George was able to move our enthusiastic group along to the wine tasting. An indifferent white, a stunning red, but at EUR10, not our normal drinking wine. And thus onto the Moscatel. A bargain at EUR4.10, so I bought a case. Augmented by a couple of bottles as a gift from Alison. I was interested in the difference between the 2 yr old and the 10 yr old … thought I’d buy 1 bottle as a comparison … so I asked George to point it out to me … and he gave me a tasting. Aged P’s … I bought 2 bottles, plan to drink one and give you one … wonder if it’ll make it home.

The American lady was amazed that we’d discovered this tour as it is not marketed. It really was an amazing trip and the staff recommended a local restaurant in an ordinary local town that was not only good value but stunning food. We had the local DOP (which means it should good) Azeitao cheese … you cut off the top, relying on the linen band to support the side walls and spoon out the gooey unctuous cheese from within … Alison had a huge prawn, I – a salted, onion, potato and cheese bake and J had the most amazing tender steak. Fantastic. What an amazing day when we had no idea what to expect. And how lucky were we!

http://www.bacalhoa.com/default.htm

Misty start to the day, but we crossed the 25th April Bridge. It may be longest in Europe, but it was a bargain compared to the Severn Crossings (James used to be the MD) at only EUR1.75!

From the web site:

Bacalhôa Museum (Main Winery)

« Back

Behind every great wine, there lies a great story.

Join us for an unforgettable visit of Quinta da Bassaqueira and discover its history which brings together wine, nature and art.

We invite you to discover different collections divided into three thematic groups expository:

“Out of Africa” is an exhibition dedicated to the Queen Ginga and three Landscape Wonders from Angola – the Dark Stones from Pungo Andongo, the Tundavala Gap and Kalandula Falls.

What a Wonderful World! It is a gateway to an atmosphere of glamor and perfection. It is being carried away by the Art Nouveau and Art Deco, is to let yourself be captivated by the euphoria of the Roaring Twenties, is to let yourself go around by the bright colors and metallic shades.

Portuguese Tiles from XVI to XX Century, used so lush and unparalleled in any European country, the tiles, which proliferated for more than five centuries in Portugal, eventually became a genuine contribution to our country’s cultural heritage and artistic world.

During the tour, take the opportunity to taste the wines and fully appreciate the pleasure which can be found in the degustation of wines.
From the tasting room, admire the tranquil scene of the Japanese garden, in which some of the works of the sculptor Niizuma are exhibited, along with a Kaki tree, the ‘great-granddaughter’ of the only tree to survive the Nagasaki bomb.

By the car park contained some unusual art … just hint at what was to come.

Some of the wine is matured in these steel containers. Others in 2 year old French oak barrels and the better stuff in American red wood – the same used for Scottish whisky and Sherry … hope they have a lot of trees. The barrels do last about 40 years though and cost nearly EUR1000.

A large playfellow for Oscar. Some of the olive trees were over 2000 years old and had been replanted from before the Barragem Alqueva was dammed. It is great having explored enough of a country to be able to make connections and say “We’ve been there”.

The front of the palace that a Queen (forget which) built as a playground for her son.

Marble and all on piece with Vasca da Gama.

Parterre with 5 hidden benches for whatever couples got up to centuries ago!

Originally the water had boats on for the royals to play with, but apparently the son of the current owner, who lives here, throws guests in! Private information from one of the group who knew the owner’s family and had been to parties here.

The Portuguese tiles original had colour, then when the trade routes closed so did access to certain pigments, so the tiles became only blue until the C19.

It is a new vineyard planted in the 1960’s … the first two bottles are on the table.

The current owner and art collector is within the top 10 most wealthy Portuguese and he is fascinated with Catherine of Braganza. This is the original marriage contract.

Just a small part of the Art Deco museum.

Absolute abandon.

Almost life size.

Some of the 2 year old Moscatel raging on French Oak barrels.

Wine aging in newer barrels with priceless tiles all around the cellar.

Alison using her decaff tea bags for a bit of eye therapy during lunch.

602 – Belem: Lisbon Day 2

Posted on January 22, 2017 by Clunegapyears

602 – Thursday 19th January 2017: Belem Tour

A short drive to Belem. This is where the Age of Discoveries took place … adventurers and navigators set sail from here. It is a relatively small area to walk and has its own atmosphere. The pix tell their own tale.

Outside the Military Museum and monument to fallen Portuguese soldiers, we were in time for the Changing of the Guard. They have a strange march which looks like they are wearing imaginary snow shoes and planting poles.

An iconic sight … the Torre de Belem. Commissioned by King Manuel I it was built as a fortress to guard the point of departure for many of the explorers and navigators. The exterior was really quite stunning with rope carved stone and open balconies. It looks as if it floats on the Tagus, but was actually built on a small island. The water is contained so that water remains creating the illusion of it floating even when the tide is low. Shame so many overly pressuring sales people … I really have no need of a selfie stick.

The interior is austere and given over to cannon.

Our first view of the Monument to the Discoveries. And the 25th April bridge, originally called the Salazar .. not only roads were renamed after the 1974 revolution.

Built in 1960 to celebrate the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator. He leads the ship and Vasco da Gama is the third in line. Salazar commissioned it … he tried to resurrect the concept of the Golden Age of Discovery and fought pointless and prolonged wars to try to hang onto the Portuguese empire.

Mosteiro dos Jeronimos. One of the Lisbon must do’s. A monument to the wealth of the Age of Discoveries. Commissioned by Manual 1 around 1501 when Vasco da Gama returned having discovered India. It was built from pepper taxes … literally the import taxes charged on pepper and spices. The left hand wing was the dormitories and now houses the National Archaeological Museum. And further left is the Maritime Museum.

Lunch before going around the Monastery.

A real WOW factor as you enter the Cloisters. These were completed in 1544.

View of the Church of Santa Maria with its huge octagonal pillars. Much more impressive than the Cathedral which we saw a few days later.

Inside the rectory the walls are tiled with C18 azulejos.

We bought some of the famous Portuguese custard tarts and ate them watching the sun go down. The tarts are believed to have been created by the Monks from the Monastry before the C18th, so they are often known as Pasteis de Belem. During Medieval times, the convents and monasteries produced large quantities of eggs. The egg whites were used to starch clothes such as nun’s habits and to clear wines … leaving a glut of egg yolks. So the monasteries produced custardy confections. These original items were definitely a step up from others we’ve tried … and we’ve sampled a few!

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