941-942: Katherine is an Olympic Athelete

Posted on December 29, 2017 by Clunegapyears

941 – Thursday 28th December 2017: Escaping the Asylum!

We left our campsite of 6 nights €19 ACSI rate, having said adieu to Julia and Simon – Dave had left earlier…. We felt slightly institutionalised, but that may have been the 10 days with no alcohol free days!

Tried to visit the Kastel, but really heavy rain so we did not fancy the short walk up to the castle.

Off to Lidl for a nice big shop.

A shortish meander to Katacolo a nice small harbour for the overnight – walk in the rain…..no coffee shop would accept our Oscar – but all the town dogs adopted him readily! We faced into the wind which blew all night long……some wine and carb-free supper to go with the fitness regime – and tomorrow back into alco-free days again, although we will celebrate New Year – with more new motor homing friends further south…..

Oh – and a big hello to young Jim and Nancy who have discovered our blog in USA/Canada….. In Jordan, we used to play Scrabble and Jim would bring a bottle of Scotch (Chivas Regal) which I took more than a passing fancy to – sometimes they left me asleep on the sofa – with a Scrabble note of goodnight!!!

Leaving amid grey skies and thrashing seas.

Katacolo: a few fishing boats but the town exists to supply the massive cruise ships that dock here for Olympia. Even the interesting sounding Museum of Greek Technical Inventions was only open 5 random days in December … to coincide with the cruise ships probably.

Nose into the wind.

941 – Friday 29th December: Ancient Olympia

To Ancient Olympia – home of ‘The Games’ since the 1st century BC – they competed in the nuddy! Did they have veteran athletes? (By the way, the World Veterans Track and Field Championships will take place in Malaga in September 2018 – I ran in the Worlds in Newcastle in 1999…..maybe?). Naked, James?

We saw the sanctuary of Zeus and birthplace of the Olympic Games, to honour him. 776BC was the first recorded athletic event, although archaeological findings on the site date to 8000BC. The last Games were held in 393AD after the recently converted Emperor banned pagan activities. First revival was 1896 in Athens and the Frenchman, Baron Piere de Coubertin, who championed the revival, has his heart buried here. The €6pp winter rate for the site and museum was excellent value.

This is the stadium at Ancient Olympia. Mike of Moho-dreamer, who we spent Christmas with, was photo’d on the starting line …. I had to go one better and I ran the length! With umbrella and camera in hands and wearing full waterproofs and walking boots …. bet not many Olympiads could match that!!! From 720BC athletes competed naked … far too wet for me to do that! Men only too.

Where the Olympic Flame is lit and the start of the Olympic Torch Relay.

The info board only told us who paid for it’s repair … the guide book tells us that Phillip II commissioned it to honour the Dynasty of Macedonian Kings, so surely this is later?

The Temple of Hera 7BC

Public Shame: The Games embodied the ideal of fair competition among free and equal men. Those caught cheating had their name, crime and fine carved onto one of the 16 bases of statues to Zeus, which line the route to the stadium … let that be a warning to others.

Gate through to the stadium: Capacity of 45,000. The main sports venue for running, wrestling and pentathlon etc. Chariot racing was next door. The Stadium was only unearthed by the Germans during WW2

Temple of Zeus 5BC, as large as the Parthenon

Sacrificial offerings.

Atlas and the Apples of Hesperides: Hercules, centre, holds up the sky, Athena on the left, assists him and, right, is Atlas, who has brought back golden apples guarded by the Hesperides Nymphs.

Springs of Kaiafa is our overnight spot: a bit of a smell of sulphur, but tarmac to park over is good after heavy rain.

934-940: Ioanian Christmas Festivities

Posted on December 27, 2017 by Clunegapyears

934 – Thursday 21th December 2017: Achaia Clauss Winecastle

In the last post, I made mention of that funny stuff comes from the sky – this morning, it was a multiplicraination! Bilateral decision to postpone the Olympic training to another day…. We ‘LPGd’ and set off across the Rio Antirrio Bridge – not to Janeiro, Oscar! The bridge was built by a consortium including my old shareholder (at SRC) Vinci of France – opened in 2004 – I received an invite at the time but couldn’t make it. It set all kinds of records and looks beautiful. Shortly after opening, a long cable stay fell on to the road and closed the bridge – may have been a lightning strike. I hope to visit the people there sometime on this trip…..

On to – a winery – the second oldest business in Greece, after the National Bank and before a chocolate company – so if you’re Greek, you take your savings from the bank and buy – you get the picture… The guide Maria was fascinating! Articulate, funny, highly informative – and wonderfully theatrical! In one story, she said “Queen Margarita suffered from tubercul (pause) – we all chorused -osis!!!” Apparently, this wine is very good for health, including low blood pressure….. well, you all know what we immediately suffer from!!! Definitely a recommended visit. She also arranged for us to buy 20 litres of her olive oil – for €23!

The rain increased – we briefly considered going straight to tomorrow’s intended campsite – but stopped short – wild camping for the night, at the sea again – and we’ll save the campsite fee to spend on the olive oil, which we will pick up tomorrow….. By the way, K describes this stuff as “wet rain” – based on her experiences in Brizzle, perchance?

Headline in the local news – “Greece to have white Christmas”!!!

Sunset tonight 5.17 – the Shortest Day. Spring is on it’s way.

Rio Antirrio Bridge last night.

And after paying the EUR13.30 to cross it. As a large camper, we travel at truck rate :(.

Not camera shake, but that wet stuff on the screen.

Achaia Clauss Winecastle: French and Portuguese oak barrels, a few were previously used for Cognac.

From 1908 the company specialised in production of the Mavrodaphne and Demestica wines.

Clauss died shortly after, and the company passed into the hands of a German named Gudert from whom on the outbreak of World War I the Greek government confiscated the winery as an enemy alien asset. In 1920 it passed into the ownership of Vlassis Antonopoulos, and from then on, with a slight pause during the German occupation in World War II, the company developed rapidly.

The German founder, Clauss, brought in Maltese castle builders to construct his wine castle. He provided schools etc.

The latest cooper recruit.

Clauss started with two mega barrels he purchased from the Great Exhibition in Trieste … they still contain wine from 1889.

Given his German heritage, he dedicated a barrel to Bismark.

The wine in this barrel was made to the secret recipe on page 601 of the founders book.

935 – Friday 22nd December: Jobs and Preparation

We left our very wet overnighting spot and headed back to the wine castle to collect our olive oil from the lovely Maria… Next port of call was Ionion Campsite – much recommended by lots of folk. We met Carol and Mike, whose blog we follow https://moho-dream.co.uk – and Dave. Evening drinks with Mike and Carol – very Jolly and pre-Christmasy…

Morning drenching on our wild pitch.

936 – Saturday 23rd December: Jobs and Preparation

Jez was settled into his sunlit pitch with nearby sea views – K did massive laundry – we cleaned the van and showered ourselves – lovely heated shower rooms and piping hot water! We are even picking up an english speaking radio station … Island FM from Xante. Katherine prepared my favourite ever veggie in the slow cooker – red cabbage – yummy….. A top run in the morning had set us up nicely for the day.

Note the Irish and British flags are fluttering on the bonnet, and the laundry on the rack!

Can’t beat a snow globe.

937 – Sunday 24th December: Christmas Eve for 7 – in Jez!

Another good training run and then we moved all of 5 metres to get a full on beachside pitch – vacated by a German family – efharristo and danke to you all… In search of food supplies we biked to a town – 20k round trip. K was prepping food for 7 in our supermobile tonight – we’ve had 6 before….pushing the boat out. Carol, Mike, Julia, Simon and Dave joined us – the conversation and wine flowed – excellent company indeed!

The German family due to arrive had their caravan moved to another pitch, so we hopped into their beach front pitch. Not a beach towel in sight.

Bakery told me this is a special bread for Christmas …. with almonds and hazelnuts in shells

938 – Monday 25th December: A Traditional Christmas in the Sun

Well – Happy Crimbo everyone – Nollag Shona Dhuibh go leir to the Celtic contingent!!! Oscar says Happy K9day to Kinsey, Ice, Poppy and Boo and all his friends!

We sat outside in the sun to brekkie and open prezzies – phone calls with family. A lazy slow and festive lunch with fizzy bubblies…..our K-Haute Cuisine was ‘perfecto’.

An afternoon nap was mandated and in the evening – more seasonal drinks with Carol and Mike. We remembered Punta Bracetto in 2015 – cheers, Dan the man – Lagos in 2016 with the lovely Shirley, Margaret, Chris and Mary – slainte to you all!!! We’ll meet again soon and maybe in Arisaig?

Socks had to feature … nothing mundane about the colours!

And a new waterproof.

In with the new and out with the old.

My Christmas Stocking which is a collated during the year on the Aged P’s travels; white a few dodgy bottles! I now do the same for Maddy.

A festive dog with his festive new squeaker.

Starter …

And the main turkey event …. cooked in a slow cooker, two rings and the oven … including homemade bread sauce, Yum!

939 – Tuesday 26th December: Pottering and Supper at Julia & Simon’s

A lazy hazy day – of pottering – where do the days go? As we miss families especially at this time of year – we’ve decided to spend Christmas 2018 in the UK and Ireland – cheers in advance… yet to invite ourselves!!!

Julia and Simon had us around to a delicious supper of leftovers – with Dave – and mulled wine. Nightcap in Jez – some of K’s stocking filler miniature bottles – then Zzzzzs….

Boxing Day sunset.

940 – Wednesday 27th December: Departure Jobs

We said adieu to Carol and Mike – they’re heading down south like us – so it’s likely we’ll meet again, soon. Dave had left earlier – safe travels to you all! The local castle looked inviting but not in the heavy rain forecast – so – a pre departure jobs day – more laundry, wc emptying, grey waste – blog – doggybeachwalking – cleaning, etc. And – the sun came out to shine – on the righteous?

931-932: Moving South Towards the Peloponnese

Posted on December 20, 2017 by Clunegapyears

931 – Monday 18th December 2017: Vonitsa

After a nice quiet evening (is there any other kind of night on the road for us ‘pikies’?) – we pushed each other out the door for an early-ish run – at a nomadesque pace – like time travellers from ‘snugurbia’….. Then we noticed this rather moisture type stuff coming from above – in large litres full…… This kind of occurrence often leads to a conclusion – like “Oh my goodness, we cannot possibly venture out today – there’s so may jobs to be done inside the van!”. We resigned ourselves (it was hard) to admin….. ADAC renewal – they don’t take payment by phone (too expensive to do bank transfer) – but they take credit card by phone – no contradiction? But they’re worth every penny.

Later, destination Vonitsa – via road signs saying “Underwater immersed tunnel”! But you engineering types (Edward, for example) will know – two types of tunnels – ‘bored’ or ‘immersed tube’. I think this one is immersed concrete box….. someone is bound to correct me! Now then, when K and I travel by “Tunnel sous la Manche” from (or to) Blighty – we have a little tradition….. Due to certain logistical considerations (like one of us having to drive) – regrettably, this was not possible. Well, it might have been – but that requires more descriptive material than you could shake a feather boa at…..

Vonitsa – wearing full Aegean Sea diving gear against the rather incessant rain – we dove (linguists, take not of the Americanese) into the first restaurant for sustenance! It wasn’t difficult. Oscar was left in ‘vanitsolo’….. An easy long lunch and for afters, we tried Ouzo – not unlike Sambuca – our ‘Sicilian’ motorhoming friends from 2015 will remember sharing Sambuca with us… another lovely family establishment in this town. I retrieved his nibs – who was all over me for 3 seconds – and then wanted to bolt to where K was waiting – I know my place… We walked off the lunch to an island across a humpbacked stone bridge to a chapel – and marked the route for a possible run tomorrow. We noted fresh snow on the distant hills.

Pic from last night, after we got back and got out of wet clothes … my brushed cotton PJs and Oscar warming me up.

Along the beach at Vonitsa.

Another chapel in an island.

932 – Tuesday 19th December 2017: Mesolongi

Longer runs this morning – the raining schedule is ramping up nicely – (and so is the training) – where will the 2046 Olympics be held? (I will be a mere 99 years young…).

Mesolongi doesn’t offer too much – harbour, Lord Byron’s heart – and history……….

Moved form the first choice overnight to very peaceful Tourlida – only a nearby restaurant and caravorting couples for company.

Your heart is underneath you! The rest of Lord Byron was shipped back to home. He assisted with raising supplies for the War of Independence and died in Mesolongi. I checked his ears … they did not look that small, which is what Ali Pasha said! The Park of the Heroes has monuments to the great and good of Mesolongi, but could do with a bit of a sprucing up.

933 – Wednesday 20th December 2017: Nafpaktos

No run. Dog walking was difficult as there were 8 dogs coming from all sides.

Along coast to Nafpaktos …. another Venetian fort, pretty harbour and a lunch out… movie. Lovely evening view of Rio bridge.

Nafpaktos Harbour

Oscar’ Diary

K and J asked me to write this entry – very kind of them! I was going to write it anyway….. This could get combobulated… After Croatia, Bosnia and Herzogovina, Montenegro and Italy – they put me on a boat (well, a big boat where I had the embarrassment of having to ’toilet’ on deck) – to a place they called ‘Greece’….. I’ve seen the movie – John Travolater and Olivia Newt Injun – but that looked like America where girls wore ‘bobby sox’ and funny pettygoats? That’s a small frilly goat, by the way – for those born before 1950 There’s a few of you old timers out there….. “No names please Oscar”

Well, we landed safely – and not a frilly sock in sight! It looked the same as lots of countries to me – mountains, sea, nice roads – and K/J said we would see somethings called “Reeking Gropin”remains….we visited some straight off the boat – they smelled quite normal to me – and nobody groping that I could see. These humans do get their twickers in a mist, sometimes. Where was i going with this story? Oh yes – we went to Nafpaktos (which is Sotkapfan backwards). “Oscar – we don’t think the readers really want this information!” Ok, the town is nice and a really posh eatery (posh because they asked me in) gave good fare.

For our overnight, we have (J told me) a view of the Rio Janeiro bridge which crosses into the Polypennies. Ok, I didn’t pass my Geography K-levels – I phlunked.

I really don’t like all these wild dogs that come from nowhere (and everywhere) without warning…. I know they’re my kin – but in post-recession Greece, they are just out of control! I try to be aloof – and J and I had to ‘hoof’ it this morning, a bit sharpish.

Overall, K9 life is still most excellent – I must give the owners the plug they paid me for – they are really good folk – K is the good looking one – and James – is…a craggy sexyjenhairyone, I think…..

Kibble to all – and a Happy K9ristmas

Oscar

928- 930: In Between Downpours!

Posted on December 18, 2017 by Clunegapyears

928 – Friday 15th December 2017: Picture Perfect Parga

In this quite idyllic location, we both ran in the morning – sorry Oscar – you ran too…. The first week of my new structured training programme – day 3. Then we drove to Parga. Perhaps I should get one item out of the way and on the permanent record…..whenever we arrive into a new town – we always have coffee!!! So, I won’t repeat it in every entry, (perhaps). A nice town but very dead…castle…council workers putting up street Christmas decorations, drilling holes in the pavements.

A lot of the locals left the village in 1819 when the British sold it to Ali Pasha … his reputation preceded him. Then muslims moved in … most only to leave again when there was an exchange of populations in 1923.

The wonky toilet – Believe it or not this has been straightened. Can’t imagine anyone sitting on the throne here … the door has lots of ventilation!

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Pelicans and Flamingoes on our drive off the island Korronissia.

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Parga: Lots of little islands with quite a few with chapels.

View out the other side of the castle.

929 – Saturday 16th December 2017

The big Katherine birthday – a mere slip of a girl…..

K ran in the a.m. – from our very convenient but not pretty overnight spot…… We Jezzed to Ammoudia – another slightly dead beach town – not surprising as it’s mid-December – don’t they know our season is all year long? Not even a coffee available here.

Nekromanteion of Ephyra next – the perfect place to visit if you want to commune with the dead – we prefer to talk to the living…

Aherondas Gorge then to seek a riverfront overnight and birthday celebration meal out. The ground was too soft – and the restaurant was closed anyway – so we aborted. (The riparian path was washed away so we walked only a short distance.)

The rain was getting heavier as we briefly looked for a suitable ‘wilding’ spot for the night – nothing really came up…. so, a campsite was the answer (we also needed a water fill). The only one open in the area – we were the sole occupants – picked a lovely sea fronting pitch – and as the wind got up and howled around, we had coffee with the owner and 3 generations of his family and dog Rico – in front of a roaring fire – excellent! The nearest open restaurant was 2.5km away in the rain – so K prepared an emergency haute cuisine 3-course meal – with those nice bottles that contain bubbles! Lovely bubbly jubbly……. As we slept, the waves crashed against the shore – and a big electric storm thundered overhead – the ground moved for K during the night….no answers on a postcard, please!

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Nekromanteion Of Ephyra: A medieval Church sits above the Greek oracle site – the antechamber of Hades.

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Pilgrims arrived, and stayed over night in windowless rooms. Drugs were involved. They then groped their way along corridors and were lowered into a cavern where they would commune with the souls of the dead. Apparently the dead were not merciful and often vindictive. No pix inside the Antechamber to Hades as a mediation group were in situ … wonder if they’d been at the lupin seeds?

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The pilgrims brought offerings.

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Aherondas Gorge. In summer families wade up river … not for us. Rain starting or we would have found an alternate walking path. The same meditation group arrived and used most of the car park.

Our campsite pitch – above a small cliff right next to the waves. Sounds of stones with the waves all night, added to by thunder of a storm.

930 – Sunday 17th December 2017: Zalongo and Ancient Kassope

Remembering Nicky who died aged 49 3 years ago.

Ah, the joy of a hot shower! All brekkied up, including Oscar – the scallywag also ate the campsite dog’s breakfast – grrrrrrr, Oscar – not funny when we’re guests! You’re setting a bad example for Poppy and Boo – they do read our blog, you know. Luckily, K gave one of your treats to Rico as recompense.

Having declined the opportunity to commune with the dead, we headed to a place where 60 women threw their children off a high cliff and then jumped to their own death!!! This Ali Pasha was a very bad man who promised the local Souli people peace and then reneged on his word. Rather than be defiled, they went up to a very high place and committed collective suicide….. It doesn’t bear thinking about…

Back down the hill and a short walk to Ancient Kassope – Romans destroyed it. But compact and well laid – easy to follow – large amphitheatre – a good visit.

We chose Preveza for the belated birthday celebration meal. During coffee, we had a local restaurant recommendation from the owner – local word of mouth is always good. Our overnightly is a large car park near the sea – with resident wild dogs – but not aggressive. No noise at night – perhaps the occasional ‘salivaexchanging’ couple… try saying that with a mouthful of crushed ice! We walked into town to the recommended establishment – in lashing rain – that we only saw in Spain and Brizzle. No street names – rescued again by some locals who directed us. Upon arrival, we were truly bedraggled and bedrizzled! We were also ‘feckin soaked’. Settled our squelshy bottoms and looked around… it was the local male only divorcees, widowers and lonely hearts club band! Not falling into any of those categories, we supped well nonetheless….local meatballs, fish and (in K’s case) 200 kgs of spuds…good wine – and we retired to a dry van (and a rampant Oscar) – and a nightcap of Limpcello -what’s a ‘limp cello’, James? It’s not a cello on Viagra – but a rather tasty libation from the freezer!

Goodnight – and another happy birthday to my rather splendid wife…

The guide book describes the monument as hideous cement and stone … perhaps the author is not a fan of art from the 1950’s but we liked it.

They held hands and danced off the cliff watched by the bemused Muslim soldiers.

Great views from the top.

You can just see Jez parked at the Zalongo Monastery.

Houses at Ancient Kassope.

We’ve seen much better preserved amphitheatres, but this site is compact and you really get a sense of how the town worked. The amphitheatre would have seated 4000, for a town of about 6,000.

The only tomb, but it had been ransacked before archaeological excavation in 1806 … only 3 years after the women of Zalongo leapt to their deaths.

The Zalongo monument from Kassope.

Kassope was in a superb situation … mountains one side and sea views the other.

925-927: Some Typical Greek Towns and a Few Finds

Posted on December 14, 2017 by Clunegapyears

925 – Tuesday 12th December 2017: Tricky Trikala and Pyla

A sad adieu to Meteora camping – and our French neighbours (a young couple, well younger than us, travelling for a year with a 18 and 15 year old children) – lovely location – shame about the €10 charge for the washing machine – but, heigh ho… A nice short drive to Trikala – parked 4km outside and biked in – puncture/tyre ok but the usual chain retensioning. Guess what comes first – coffee, of course! Fort – no K9s – pity – old Mosque – a nice non-touristy town – but not very memorable…

Another short hop to Pyla – and a wonderfully secluded wild camping spot by a river gorge and near the pack horse bridge – very quiet……. and much more memorable.

A river runs through Trikala, but this seemed to be the only section you could walk … missed a trick in Trikala!

A hotel before and now a shop named after our dog.

The fountain was switched off, but this little lad still had a dripping willy!

Trikala is flat and bicycle friendly … there are a couple of bike lanes, but not easy to navigate with the Os-car when cars and trucks park in them!

Koursoun Tzami: a restored C16 mosque with a small display inside … the gate keeper slept whilst we looked around, headphones on and chin sunk into his chest.

926 – Wednesday 13th December: Pyla and onto Arta

AM – our first run for 2 weeks! K also did her Pilates….. walk to the old bridge – major school party in attendance – all part of the Oscar admiration society, of course. As last night’s ramp down in to the parking was a bit steep, we used a different route out which led to town parking and – coffee – is there any coffee left in Brazil? (Sorry, I’ve used that line before…). Old mosque, purchases of leek and pork sausages, fruit (no ice cream or chocolate – new weight loss regime?).

Lunch in Jez and sails trimmed and set for Arta – 3 hours driving. We had intended nightparking at a reservoir – but the roads looked too narrow – so a lovely city centre parking. Lo and behold – the same French family we had met in Meteora camping! Their young dog “Ice” and our Oscar get on famously – tearing around the parking – each trying to hump the other! Poor Oscar was worn out… but oh so happy!

A catering first for Jez: A EUR 1.99 whole chicken in the pressure cooker.

Along the gorge in Pyli … you can just spot Jez.

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View from our front window … just lovely.

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Pyli old mosque … added to in different styles. Sadly shut.

927 – Thursday 14th December: Artful Arta and Koronissia

I ran at dawn – and she ducked! Well – 9:00 dawn – second day in succession – I’m on a mission with a structured training plan – to have a serious race at the end of February. The plan is heavily disciplined around ‘fartlek’, getting lost, lots of sleep – and ‘somno vinoque’ – and some running, too…….. K rolled out her gangplank and captured pirates of the Aegean! Oh dear, another old line….. the faithful reader(s) will work it out… (Hmm …. Pilates). Our new French friends were departing and offered us the opportunity to park and join them and their family south in Greece at a rental house – the people we meet are amazing!

Arta is what we would call (after 1 week) the real Greece – normal, non touristy, busy. The number of coffee locations is incredible – the entire town was out socialising over coffee and small cakes. Again, the castle grounds were non-dog friendly. Quirky shopping bazaars, Ottoman buildings, ‘Fish’ street, hardware shop street – K got a longer cable for our Cadac gas BBQ for all of EUR2. Jez provided soup for lunch …l eftovers from the €1.99 chicken!

Fab and easy drive to Koronissia, as recommended by Peejay, who updates a Googlemaps of sleep spots. Not our original plan, but when you get a recommendation, good to go with it. Stunning drive across the causeways – Peejay said we may be too late to see flamingos and pelicans .. but saw lots. A really lovely spot with water on both sides… hope the tide doesn’t come in! Definitely one of the best wild camping locations…..

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Arta’s Pananyia Parigoritissa: Mix of brickwork and styles. 1283-1296.

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The grandiose 5 domed cube is supported by a cantilevered-pilaster system, that looks unsafe.

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C16 & C17 frescos.

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Seen a few of these dog crates … guess what Santa may bring you? Have you been good?

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The restored packhorse bridge: a subject of song and poem … the builder was fed up with his foundations being washed away he took advice from a taking bird … he sealed his wife up in the central pillar and the build went swimmingly thereafter. Seem to have heard this theme before!

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Wrong camera lens, but you can just make out a pelican along the causeway to Koronissia.

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Our fabulous parking.

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Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels

Category Archives: Balkans Tour 2017-18