1415-1417: Special in Sougia

1415: Headed South to Sougia

Saturday 18th January 2020

Coffee at Aris’ – as usual…..  then driving to Sougia- east and south…..I found that my new hearing aids played my phone music – and the SatNav – the wonders of modern technology!

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Sougia is a small village with basically a road north  … to move east, we have to almost hit the north coast.  It is mostly shut, bar a cafe and a souvlaki grill are open.  However, German Camper Micheal is here (met at Elafonisi and Paleochora) and another solo German lady, Freya, … Interesting character, she told me she is a dancer, as I fixated on the dangling jewel stapled in the middle of her forehead.  So it is quiet, beautiful and pretty isolated.

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We’d driven through fog and rain to sunshine in Sougia … but the hills are still shrouded in clouds.

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The small harbour wearing a rainbow.

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So different to the north, the mountains fall into the sea.

 

1416: Lissos Gorge Walk

Sunday 19th January

Coffee in a local Sougia bar – and off to the Lissos Gorge – fantastic rock colours and formations – but so many goats that our Corriegoatherd was on the lead mostly.  Our picnic stop was a sun trap overlooking the Ancient site of Lissos.  Having eaten and sunbathed out of the wind, lethargy stole over us … we resisted (easily) the temptation to take the steep ascent and descent to the site.

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Just make out the remnants of snow.

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Camouflage dog!

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No, Corrie, you are NOT a goat … but there were a lot, so she had to spend much of the walk on the lead.

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Picnic stop looking down onto Lissos, ancient site.  Out of the wind and lovely and warm.

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Curious goats came to torment CO2.

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The Souvlakerie for supper … a local spatiality to start, super crisp thin crepes, filled with fennel tops and spinach.  Lovely.

 

1417: Mountain View Walk

Monday 20th January

An easier walk this morning – with a biting wind in places. We wanted to find a cave but the final path section was overgrown – return to the village where K discovered the local cafe was open. 2 coffees ordered – our hottest, Maria spoke excellent English – apologised that she had no cakes… then she appeared with salted peanuts – and Raki – at lunchtime!!!…  As we were about to leave she produced pastries she had just cooked – spinach and cheese – our favourites….  and more Raki!   What another amazing Cretan experience!  We left wondering if we might come back to eat there. K had spotted 2 elderly ladies in the village – so we had seen 4 of the 12 inhabitants! 

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You just know its going to be a good day when there’s rainbow with you.

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 On top the world!  High Mountains and deep gorges, typical of this region.
 
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Looking down to the gorge where Sougia is.  
 
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 And a full rainbow on the return!
 
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A long history of being destroyed.  The Venetians raised it in 1527 as the leader of resistance came from here.  They destroyed it twice more.  Then the Turks in 1821.  In 1943, the Germans slaughtered the inhabitants of here and 2 other nearby villages.  This is an all too fairly common story.
 
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 Memorial. 
 
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There were 3 different WW2 memorials in the village, but this one seemed to list the names of those by local village that had been sent to an Austrian concentration camp.
 
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I followed the river from our parking up stream for a way … Note to self, don’t park next to a river when heavy rain forecast!
 
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Back on the beach later., and a talk with Freya.  Not a chat about the oft heard, where have you been … going to ….. but a about the journey through life.
 

1408-1414: Wonderful Walks and Minor Medical Matters

Saturday 11th – Friday 17th January 2020

Still based in Kalyves, essentially riding out a spot of some bad weather and sorting out some medical issues.


Walks 

One walk took us from a new-to-us hill village – Kalamitsi Alexandrou and out through olive and orange groves, with lovely views of the White Mountains.  The destination was the Holy Monastery of Agios Georgios at Karydi.

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The monastery on the horizon.

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The entrance … EUR2, wasn’t sure where to leave the money so just left in inside.

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All this complex for just one resident monk.  And I heard his deep vibrating snores echo around.  He appeared later and got the chap who had been sat on the terrace to drive him somewhere. 

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The 12 arch oil factory 1860 within the monastery complex.  Large scale olive production started in 1829 and provided a many local families with employment.

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Our picnic on the terrace outside … notice the lady with her feet up … she’d been washing up whilst the monk slept … division of the sexes here.

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A coffee back at the village cafe and Corrie made herself at home.


Lars, our Swedish resident friend led us on another walk, part of which we’d done before … we parked up behind Almyrida and walked around Douliana and Tsivaras … mostly mixed leaf woods, more oranges and olivestwo cave churches.

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Lars assured us that there are no poisonous snakes in Crete.  J explained how St Patrick had banished all snakes from Ireland.

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Some of our route was old Minoan roads … these huge and smooth slabs have stood the test of time.

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Inside one fo the cave churches.  We’ve been astounded at the honesty and trust here in Crete.  One of the churches had money left on a shelf … 


Beach Cleaning

Armed with gloves and plastic bags, we did our bit … a lot of plastic gets washed up after storms.  This was a Greek and Ex-pat combined exercise.

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CO2 are soooo starved, that they have to wear muzzles at Kalives … people dump cooked bones and there has been some talk of poison being put down.  So much as CO2 both attempt to remove the muzzles, they stay on for their own good.  The orange ‘kerchief is part of Brian’s over sized duvet that was cut down … should get a pic of all 2 dogs sporting their orange (sorry, Brian, TANGERINE) fashion wear!

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The official photo of most of the litter pickers … I am there … about a third in from the left, at the back, between two incredibly tall men.


Medical Matters for the High Maintenance Man!

Let’s talk hearing loss … J had a test about 18 months ago and was told he was borderline for hearing aids.  However, I now often have to repeat myself 3 times … and usually what I say, ain’t worth repeating even once.  The handsome Dr Manos in Kalives, booked a hearing test in Chania.  Moderate loss in both ears at high frequency … no wonder he can’t hear me!!  We went straight around the corner to a hearing aid specialist.  The lovely Vera had stuck green wax in his ears to get the shape last week and we went on Monday to collect the hearing aids.  Time is NOT money in Crete.  We were there over and hour and a half, checking the programme and no echo … I had to ring James from the street with passing cars for a test.  We left with the hearing aids, having left no deposit, or print of our credit card … all Vera had was a phone number!  Take them away and come back in a few days to see how you get on.  Her English is better than our Greek but not good, so people from surrounding shops were drafted in for translations.

We returned on Thursday and another hour to go through warranty and make some adjustments.  Oh, and to finally pay!  James actually hearing what I say now…. RESULT.  And his phone is blue toothed so he can select programmes, volume and …. play his music through them … even phone calls go straight to them (sadly I only now hear half the conversation!!!).

 

A wobbly tooth was inspected by Gorgeous George … locals name for him, although I concur.  It will fall out on its own … a conversation about implants.  I went to pay … he refused to take any money!  

 

Taken on Trust

As well as the trust with us walking out with the hearing aids, having not left any means for the shop to trace us should we have absconded, I had a similar experience.  My phone battery was ‘unhealthy’, so I took it into a large shop in Chania and left it with them for a couple of hours.  Picked it up and got out some money … no, you take this paper and pay up stairs.  I had the phone in one hand and the paper in the other, passed the door to the street … I could so easily have walked out.  You’ll be pleased to know I am one of those folk who tells restaurants if they’ve forgotten to add an item to the bill, so I did pay … all of EUR28.

An earring had a stone come loose … took it into the key cutting / cobbler place next to our morning coffee cafe to be glued … no charge … 

 

 

1406-1408: Sun and Snow in the Hills

1406: Overcast Walk

Thursday 9th January

Coffee at Arti’s – a regular morning tradition…..

A walk to Macheri village and surroundings – with Brian and Zoa.  Early in the walk, Oscar approached a chained dog – and promptly got attacked! He was underneath the other dog and trying to escape – we think the owner believed Oscar was the aggressor – but our O hasn’t an angry bone in his body… no damage done.  And that should teach him to stay away from chained dogs protecting their homes.

On with lovely walk – later Brian treated us to his haute cuisine – noshtimo! 

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Small rock church … nothing unusual there, but the Laura Ashley chandelier is unusual!

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This car has been up cycled!

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Macheri village, from the start of the walk.

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Macheri new amphitheatre with lovely views … where J recited ‘The lake Isle of Inisfree’, one of my faves.  The amphitheatre would seat the population of the village several times over.

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An old olive press just in a barn along one of the lanes.

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Red rocks and J coming out of Macheri.

1407: Snow Frolics

Friday 10th January

Katherine’s early doggie walk photo is amazing!

Then off in our PantyCraftyCar – to the snow – it took a while.  We kept driving and driving, seeing the snow piled up on the sides of the roads. Eventually we found sone, almost over the other side of Crete, at Imbros.  We’ve walked down the gorge  but this time we walked up the mountain.   The results were fantastic – frolics in the snow – and that was just Oscar and Corrie!  Well worth the trip.

Then – another recommended family restaurant in Stylos – they lit their fire especially for us. K had delicious liver – and I noshed chicken meatballs – a first!  Back to base – Kalyves – and chilling….. literally … when the sun goes down, it gets very cool.  We are burins gas at about a bottle every 6/7 days, but we don’t do cold, so no stinting ~ switching on the heating.

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I’ve taken a few pix of Kalives from the harbour, but this has got to be one of the best.  And that snow is where we are headed today.

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 I was worried the last 2 days of rain would have washed away all the snow … it was not looking promising.

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But we found some at Imbros … at least a foot deep.

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Initially Corrie jumped from rock to rock to avoid getting her paws in the snow.

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Mincing.

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Playtime.

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And we found another lovely restaurant, 3 Cooks in Stylos; another recommendation.  And they lit the fire for us! 

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1393-1396: Nothing Paleo in Paleochora

1393: South to Paleohora

Friday 27th December 2019

After the ritual of a coffee at Fresh and Cool cafe, we set forth for Paleochora / Paleohora.  Again a stunning drive across the mountains.  Although we could see mountain snow from our Kalives parking, we did not pass through any.  Why do I have a yen to head up into the hills and find some?  Guess it will find us soon enough!!

We really felt the benefit of the AndyPandyCar as we did a recce of the dirt track to a parking I’d identified to the the east of Paleochora …at the first soft sand we turned the  AndyPandycar around and headed into the town to check out other spots.  Bingo, a super spot between the town and the new (concrete and charmless) marina.  No-one else here and great views.

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View en route.

Lunch and whilst J nanny napped, I walked CO2 to the west and ‘sandy beach’.  Late afternoon we headed up to what was left of the Venetian fort, ransacked by Barbarossa and not rebuilt.  On the descent we stopped for a glass of vino and were entertained by the adjacent table.  Not that I was eves dropping, much!  Evidenty, a British and Dutch lady had teamed up and were renting a room in Chania and were now looking for accommodation in Paleochora.  They had spent the afternoon with a colourful ageing hippy, with an upper crust accent and a Ukranian boat owner who was largely silent… and they all had consumed a LOT of wine.  The hippy acted as broker and offered them a room on the boat … we didn’t quite establish if there was running water, a toilet, let alone a hot shower, for all of EUR7 / night.  The ‘girls’ had to leave to catch their bus back to Chania … we also left, so we will never know if they missed the last one!

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Fab parking with amazing views.

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Taken from the Venetian castle ruins.  The boat goes along the coast and then to Gavdos Island.  Quite fancied this as a day trip, but 4 hours each way from here and no time on the island.

  1394: Boulder walk

Saturday 28th December 

Drove the track that we’d decided against on arrival with Jez and were very pleased that we had aborted … lots of soft sand areas and loose stones.  

Gorge walk – we had to haul CO2 up big rocks in their harnesses and leads – then faced with what looked like an impenetrable set of rocks, we wisely aborted…and the rain had just started. A young family we met also turned around.  Lunch in PandyAndy charabanc on the beach – local pastries – yummy! 

Later in Paleochora, we met Jane another camping car English lady – supplying her with some clear gaffa tape for an incident with a tree.  Evening saw us supping in Haris’ bar with Jane – really nice noshtimo – and some local wine – with Raki…… Jane navigates her van but not with coordinates!  Could see her eyes glaze over when K was explains about Park4Night etc … did later manage to get her on Maps.Me.

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Anidhri Gorge.

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Lots of boulders to negotiate …

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… and to slide down!

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Anidri Beach, where we sat in the car and ate our spinach and cheese and Christmas pastries.

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1395: Pelekaniotikos Potamos – River Walk

Sunday 29th December

Today an easier river walk – with Corrie mostly on the lead as we didn’t fancy goat’s meat for dinner!  But a lovely riparian roaming…. (K: I hd to ask the meaning of riparian .. J advises associated with a river bank!)

The rain was now relentless and a rising wind with forecast of 33knots during the night – time to move…..to the local harbour with shelter from the sea wall – hunkering down for the evening as the lightning flashed around us – a couple of weeks ago, we were wearing shorts! 

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Not as stunning as yesterday up the gorge, but MUCH easier walking.

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The river back erosion looked like wood.

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Hands up all of you who have worn paper knickers? Jane came to the van in the afternoon bearing gifts – including paper knickers for Katherine!  Very fetching biggusknickers indeed….


1396: Magical Mountain Mystery Tour

Monday 30th December

Our harbour camping soon showed gusts of 70-80 kph! Rock and roll – but not the dancing kind, although Jez was doing a kind of jive!  At 5:00 am, K in pjs did a recce in our pandydandycar – finding a sheltered spot – on the high street!  We decamped both vehicles to outside what looked like the town council offices…..

Instead of a gale force walk, we drove on a magic mystery tour – with us, Jane and her 2 whippets. Churches, villages – some roads almost impassable – lots of 5-point turns – and lunch in a lovely cosy family taverna – with a fire!  We helped advise Jane with a gas issue and a hose nozzle that fell into the pipe of her water tank.  We could set ourselves up as gas consultants.  Amazing how much you learn when something goes wrong!

To ride out the storm, we stayed in town with all blinds closed to not draw attention to ourselves – stealth camping – but nobody complained, luckily. 

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View back down to Paleohora  we were originally parked to the left of the harbour, then in the harbour and then on the street going out of the town.

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Both ends of the rainbow  lucky.

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One of the many small churches on our vague itinerary … we didn’t see them all!





1388-1392 : Avoiding the Wind

1388: Back at Balos

Sunday 22nd December 2019

Nothing open for coffee en route … straight onto Falassarna, where I got hail and sand blasted on the beach last time we stayed.  A beach walk this morning in the sun and lunch.  After J’s nanny nap we drove back up to the start of the 8km track to the car park for Balos Beach.  We stopped and picked up Brian and Zoa … we wondered how the the AndyPandyCar would cope with the track and the equivalent of 4 adults on board.  We managed not to knacker the suspension!  With the sun and some wind we descended to the lagoon.  Brian and Zoa battled back against the wind along the track to his motorhome.

After fetching Jez from Falassarna we decamped back to Kissamos along the sea front.  It was windy, and I didn’t sleep well … I was also dreaming about the lovely meal we’d had.  We had been to the restaurant with Maddy and had amazing Pork with celery, greens and lemon.  Tonight’s special was cuttlefish with a dill sauce … only one portion left so Brian and I shared.  Also chickpea, lemon and olive soup … I’ve just tried to make this in Jez and it is no where as good as the restaurant’s.  I complimented the waitress / daughter and she has given me her mobile number and said to ring before we come again … her Mum will cook boiled chicken with rice and butter … sounds horrid, but she assures me it is very good … so we will have to go back!

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Kite flying at Falassarna – Brian trying to stay with feet on sand and Zoa trying to catch the kite!

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Track to Balos Beach.

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You’d have thought this chap would have offered to move out of the way!

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James waited and waited, but no donkey taxi!

1389: Hunkering Down in Kissamos

Monday 23rd December 2019

We contemplated a drive up into the hills, but rain threatened and then arrived, so we stayed put. A coffee and cake stop with Brian in town.  I did a little Christmas shopping … a lazy day followed by supper chez nous and a game of cribb with Brian.

We followed Brian to shelter from the wind the other side of the sports centre … so much calmer over night.

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View from the front of the van, before the latest round of wind and rain.

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Zoa also thinks he is a lap dog!

1390: Christmas Eve in Kalyves

Tuesday 24th December 

Having had a half decent night’s sleep, I awoke with energy!  As I opened the side window i spotted a tap and hose …. so the morning became a laundry session.  Twin tub carried around the wall, one of our hoses hanging out of the kitchen window for hot water and the sports centre hose for cold!  Then hot showers for both of us.  Gotta seize the moment!

We returned to Kalyves and joined the lovely Ann and another couple at Simon’s Italian for a set meal and a rock band.  Food was good, wine mostly included and the first set of the band excellent … I recognised most of the tunes.  The second set was essentially just LOUD … a bit to heavy rock for our tastes.  But a great way to start Christmas.

 

1391: Christmas Meal

Wednesday 25th December 2019

A leisurely start … presents and my stocking brought from home.  The Aged P’s buy gifts for Clare and I on their travels this year’s stocking came from Serbia, South Africa, Sardinia, Sicily, Thailand, France …. a lot of dodgy bottles … the green walnut liqueur from the Serbian monastery was very good.

A short walk (blow!) along a coastal path set us up for the next stage of Christmas.  We then drove in convoy with Brian to Drapanos and parked on the driveway of an absent neighbour of Julia and Anthony (who’d helped us with our gas).  A short walk up to Eleanore’s and lunch.  Fava, a mayo dip and smoked sausage to start.  Brian had pork knuckle, which looked better than J and my choice … pork with chestnuts and prunes … tasty but just a little too fatty.  Our left overs, the next night were actually better.

A really relaxed meal, followed by cards … Newmarket, Sevens and Pontoon.  And the wine kept flowing.  As we were leaving, we established that they are also open New Year’s Eve and there is a Greek band playing.  That’s New Year’s Eve sorted then!

 

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Christmas morning walk.

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Looking out to the Akrotiri peninsula.

1392: Boxing Day Recovery

Thursday 26th December 

Another slow start then!  Popped into say thank you to Julia for organising the parking … we can also park there for New Year.

Back to Kalyves … no energy to move far today.  We did manage the walk we’d done yesterday … easy option as we now knew the route!  Also easy option on food as recycled the left overs!

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Forgotten we had this … bought some weeks ago at charity bazaar … tasty, but not as good as my mother’s!