931-932: Moving South Towards the Peloponnese

931 – Monday 18th December 2017:  Vonitsa

After a nice quiet evening (is there any other kind of night on the road for us ‘pikies’?) – we pushed each other out the door for an early-ish run – at a nomadesque pace – like time travellers from ‘snugurbia’…..   Then we noticed this rather moisture type stuff coming from above – in large litres full……  This kind of occurrence often leads to a conclusion – like “Oh my goodness, we cannot possibly venture out today – there’s so may jobs to be done inside the van!”.  We resigned ourselves (it was hard) to admin….. ADAC renewal – they don’t take payment by phone (too expensive to do bank transfer) – but they take credit card by phone – no contradiction?  But they’re worth every penny.

Later, destination Vonitsa – via road signs saying “Underwater immersed tunnel”!  But you engineering types (Edward, for example) will know – two types of tunnels – ‘bored’ or ‘immersed tube’. I think this one is immersed concrete box….. someone is bound to correct me!  Now then, when K and I travel by “Tunnel sous la Manche” from (or to) Blighty – we have a little tradition…..  Due to certain logistical considerations (like one of us having to drive) – regrettably, this was not possible.  Well, it might have been – but that requires more descriptive material than you could shake a feather boa at…..

Vonitsa – wearing full Aegean Sea diving gear  against the rather incessant rain – we dove (linguists, take not of the Americanese) into the first restaurant for sustenance!  It wasn’t difficult. Oscar was left in ‘vanitsolo’…..     An easy long lunch and for afters, we tried Ouzo – not unlike Sambuca – our ‘Sicilian’ motorhoming friends from 2015 will remember sharing Sambuca with us… another lovely family establishment in this town.   I retrieved his nibs – who was all over me for 3 seconds – and then wanted to bolt to where K was waiting – I know my place…   We walked off the lunch to an island across a humpbacked stone bridge to a chapel – and marked the route for a possible run tomorrow.  We noted fresh snow on the distant hills.

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Pic from last night, after we got back and got out of wet clothes … my brushed cotton PJs and Oscar warming me up.

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Along the beach at Vonitsa.

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Another chapel in an island.

932 – Tuesday 19th December 2017:  Mesolongi

Longer runs this morning – the raining schedule is ramping up nicely – (and so is the training) – where will the 2046 Olympics be held? (I will be a mere 99 years young…).

Mesolongi doesn’t offer too much – harbour, Lord Byron’s heart – and history……….

Moved form the first choice overnight to very peaceful Tourlida – only a nearby restaurant and caravorting couples for company.

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Your heart is underneath you!  The rest of Lord Byron was shipped back to home.  He assisted with raising supplies for the War of Independence and died in Mesolongi.  I checked his ears … they did not look that small, which is what Ali Pasha said!  The Park of the Heroes has monuments to the great and good of Mesolongi, but could do with a bit of a sprucing up.

 

933 – Wednesday 20th December 2017:  Nafpaktos

No run.  Dog walking was difficult as there were 8 dogs coming from all sides.

Along coast to Nafpaktos …. another Venetian fort, pretty harbour and a lunch out… movie.  Lovely evening view of Rio bridge.

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Nafpaktos Harbour

Oscar’ Diary

K and J asked me to write this entry – very kind of them!  I was going to write it anyway…..  This could get combobulated…  After Croatia, Bosnia and Herzogovina, Montenegro and Italy – they put me on a boat (well, a big boat where I had the embarrassment of having to ’toilet’ on deck)  – to a place they called ‘Greece’…..  I’ve seen the movie – John Travolater and Olivia Newt Injun – but that looked like America where girls wore ‘bobby sox’ and funny pettygoats?  That’s a small frilly goat, by the way – for those born before 1950  There’s a few of you old timers out there….. “No names please Oscar” 

Well, we landed safely – and not a frilly sock in sight!  It looked the same as lots of countries to me – mountains, sea, nice roads – and K/J said we would see somethings called “Reeking Gropin”remains….we visited some straight off the boat – they smelled quite normal to me – and nobody groping that I could see.  These humans do get their twickers in a mist, sometimes.  Where was i going with this story?  Oh yes – we went to Nafpaktos (which is Sotkapfan backwards).  “Oscar – we don’t think the readers really want this information!”  Ok, the town is nice and a really posh eatery (posh because they asked me in) gave good fare. 

For our overnight, we have (J told me) a view of the Rio Janeiro bridge which crosses into the Polypennies.  Ok, I didn’t pass my Geography K-levels – I phlunked. 

I really don’t like all these wild dogs that come from nowhere (and everywhere) without warning…. I know they’re my kin – but in post-recession Greece, they are just out of control! I try to be aloof – and J and I had to ‘hoof’ it this morning, a bit sharpish.  

Overall, K9 life is still most excellent – I must give the owners the plug they paid me for – they are really good folk – K is the good looking one – and James – is…a craggy sexyjenhairyone, I think…..

Kibble to all – and a Happy K9ristmas

Oscar

 

 

928- 930: In Between Downpours!

928 – Friday 15th December 2017: Picture Perfect Parga

In this quite idyllic location, we both ran in the morning – sorry Oscar – you ran too…. The first week of my new structured training programme – day 3.  Then we drove to Parga. Perhaps I should get one item out of the way and on the permanent record…..whenever we arrive into a new town – we always have coffee!!!   So, I won’t repeat it in every entry, (perhaps).  A nice town but very dead…castle…council workers putting up street Christmas decorations, drilling holes in the pavements.

A lot of the locals left the village in 1819 when the British sold it to Ali Pasha … his reputation preceded him.  Then muslims moved in … most only to leave again when there was an exchange of populations in 1923.

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The wonky toilet – Believe it or not this has been straightened.  Can’t imagine anyone sitting on the throne here … the door has lots of ventilation!

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Pelicans and Flamingoes on our drive off the island Korronissia.

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Parga:  Lots of little islands with quite a few with chapels.

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View out the other side of the castle.

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929 – Saturday 16th December 2017

The big Katherine birthday – a mere slip of a girl…..

K ran in the a.m. – from our very convenient but not pretty overnight spot……  We Jezzed to Ammoudia – another slightly dead beach town – not surprising as it’s mid-December – don’t they know our season is all year long?  Not even a coffee available here.  

Nekromanteion of Ephyra next – the perfect place to visit if you want to commune with the dead – we prefer to talk to the living…

Aherondas Gorge then to seek a riverfront overnight and birthday celebration meal out. The ground was too soft – and the restaurant was closed anyway – so we aborted. (The riparian path was washed away so we walked only a short distance.)   

The rain was getting heavier as we briefly looked for a suitable ‘wilding’ spot for the night – nothing really came up…. so, a campsite was the answer (we also needed a water fill). The only one open in the area – we were the sole occupants – picked a lovely sea fronting pitch – and as the wind got up and howled around, we had coffee with the owner and 3 generations of his family and dog Rico – in front of a roaring fire – excellent!   The nearest open restaurant was 2.5km away in the rain – so K prepared an emergency haute cuisine 3-course meal – with those nice bottles that contain bubbles!   Lovely bubbly jubbly…….  As we slept, the waves crashed against the shore – and a big electric storm thundered overhead – the ground moved for K during the night….no answers on a postcard, please!  

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Nekromanteion Of Ephyra:  A medieval Church sits above the Greek oracle site – the antechamber of Hades.

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Pilgrims arrived, and stayed over night in windowless rooms.  Drugs were involved.  They then groped their way along corridors and were lowered into a cavern where they would commune with the souls of the dead.  Apparently the dead were not merciful and often vindictive.  No pix inside the Antechamber to Hades as a mediation group were in situ … wonder if they’d been at the lupin seeds?

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The pilgrims brought offerings.

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Aherondas Gorge.  In summer families wade up river … not for us.  Rain starting or we would have found an alternate walking path.  The same meditation group arrived and used most of the car park.

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Our campsite pitch – above a small cliff right next to the waves.  Sounds of stones with the waves all night, added to by thunder of a storm.

930 – Sunday 17th December 2017: Zalongo and Ancient Kassope

Remembering Nicky who died aged 49 3 years ago.

Ah, the joy of a hot shower!  All brekkied up, including Oscar – the scallywag also ate the campsite dog’s breakfast – grrrrrrr, Oscar – not funny when we’re guests!  You’re setting a bad example for Poppy and Boo – they do read our blog, you know.  Luckily, K gave one of your treats to Rico as recompense.  

Having declined the opportunity to commune with the dead, we headed to a place where 60 women threw their children off a high cliff and then jumped to their own death!!!  This Ali Pasha was a very bad man who promised the local Souli people peace and then reneged on his word. Rather than be defiled, they went up to a very high place and committed collective suicide….. It doesn’t bear thinking about… 

Back down the hill and a short walk to Ancient Kassope – Romans destroyed it.  But compact and well laid – easy to follow – large amphitheatre – a good visit. 

We chose Preveza for the belated birthday celebration meal. During coffee, we had a local restaurant recommendation from the owner – local word of mouth is always good.  Our overnightly is a large car park near the sea – with resident wild dogs – but not aggressive. No noise at night – perhaps the occasional ‘salivaexchanging’ couple… try saying that with a mouthful of crushed ice!  We walked into town to the recommended establishment – in lashing rain – that we only saw in Spain and Brizzle. No street names – rescued again by some locals who directed us. Upon arrival, we were truly bedraggled and bedrizzled! We were also ‘feckin soaked’.  Settled our squelshy bottoms and looked around… it was the local male only divorcees, widowers and lonely hearts club band!  Not falling into any of those categories, we supped well nonetheless….local meatballs, fish and (in K’s case) 200 kgs of spuds…good wine – and we retired to a dry van (and a rampant Oscar) – and a nightcap of Limpcello -what’s a ‘limp cello’, James?  It’s not a cello on Viagra – but a rather tasty libation from the freezer!   

Goodnight – and another happy birthday to my rather splendid wife…

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The guide book describes the monument as hideous cement and stone … perhaps the author is not a fan of art from the 1950’s but we liked it. 

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They held hands and danced off the cliff watched by the bemused Muslim  soldiers.

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Great views from the top.

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You can just see Jez parked at the Zalongo Monastery.

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Houses at Ancient Kassope.

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We’ve seen much better preserved amphitheatres, but this site is compact and you really get a sense of how the town worked.  The amphitheatre would have seated 4000, for a town of about 6,000.

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The only tomb, but it had been ransacked before archaeological excavation in 1806 … only 3 years after the women of Zalongo leapt to their deaths.

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The Zalongo monument from Kassope.

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Kassope was in a superb situation … mountains one side and sea views the other.

925-927: Some Typical Greek Towns and a Few Finds

925 – Tuesday 12th December 2017: Tricky Trikala and Pyla

A sad adieu to Meteora camping – and our French neighbours (a young couple, well younger than us, travelling for a year with a 18 and 15 year old children) – lovely location – shame about the €10 charge for the washing machine – but, heigh ho… A nice short drive to Trikala – parked 4km outside and biked in – puncture/tyre ok but the usual chain retensioning. Guess what comes first – coffee, of course!  Fort – no K9s – pity – old Mosque – a nice non-touristy town – but not very memorable…

Another short hop to Pyla – and a wonderfully secluded wild camping spot by a river gorge and near the pack horse bridge – very quiet……. and much more memorable.

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A river runs through Trikala, but this seemed to be the only section you could walk … missed a trick in Trikala!  

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A hotel before and now a shop named after our dog.

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The fountain was switched off, but this little lad still had a dripping willy!

Trikala is flat and bicycle friendly … there are a couple of bike lanes, but not easy to navigate with the Os-car when cars and trucks park in them!

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Koursoun Tzami: a restored C16 mosque with a small display inside … the gate keeper slept whilst we looked around, headphones on and chin sunk into his chest.

 

926 – Wednesday 13th December: Pyla and onto Arta

AM – our first run for 2 weeks! K also did her Pilates…..  walk to the old bridge – major school party in attendance – all part of the Oscar admiration society, of course.  As last night’s ramp down in to the parking was a bit steep, we used a different route out which led to town parking and – coffee – is there any coffee left in Brazil?  (Sorry, I’ve used that line before…).   Old mosque, purchases of leek and pork sausages, fruit (no ice cream or chocolate – new weight loss regime?). 

Lunch in Jez and sails trimmed and set for Arta – 3 hours driving. We had intended nightparking at a reservoir – but the roads looked too narrow – so a lovely city centre parking. Lo and behold – the same French family we had met in Meteora camping!  Their young dog “Ice” and our Oscar get on famously – tearing around the parking – each trying to hump the other!  Poor Oscar was worn out… but oh so happy!

A catering first for Jez: A EUR 1.99 whole chicken in the pressure cooker.

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Along the gorge in Pyli … you can just spot Jez.

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View from our front window … just lovely.

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Pyli old mosque … added to in different styles.  Sadly shut.

 927 – Thursday 14th December: Artful Arta and Koronissia

I ran at dawn – and she ducked!  Well – 9:00 dawn – second day in succession – I’m on a mission with a structured training plan – to have a serious race at the end of February. The plan is heavily disciplined around ‘fartlek’, getting lost, lots of sleep – and ‘somno vinoque’ – and some running, too…….. K rolled out her gangplank and captured pirates of the Aegean!  Oh dear, another old line….. the faithful reader(s) will work it out…  (Hmm …. Pilates).  Our new French friends were departing and offered us the opportunity to park and join them and their family south in Greece at a rental house – the people we meet are amazing!  

Arta is what we would call (after 1 week) the real Greece – normal, non touristy, busy. The number of coffee locations is incredible – the entire town was out socialising over coffee and small cakes. Again, the castle grounds were non-dog friendly. Quirky shopping bazaars, Ottoman buildings, ‘Fish’ street, hardware shop street – K got a longer cable for our Cadac gas BBQ for all of EUR2.  Jez provided soup for lunch …l eftovers from the €1.99 chicken! 

Fab and easy drive to Koronissia, as recommended by Peejay, who updates a Googlemaps of sleep spots.  Not our original plan, but when you get a recommendation, good to go with it.  Stunning drive across the causeways –  Peejay said we may be too late to see flamingos and pelicans .. but saw lots.  A really lovely spot with water on both sides… hope the tide doesn’t come in!   Definitely one of the best wild camping locations…..

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Arta’s Pananyia Parigoritissa:  Mix of brickwork and styles. 1283-1296.

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The grandiose 5 domed cube is supported by a cantilevered-pilaster system, that looks unsafe.

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C16 & C17 frescos.

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Seen a few of these dog crates … guess what Santa may bring you?  Have you been good?

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The restored packhorse bridge:  a subject of song and poem … the builder was fed up with his foundations being washed away he took advice from a taking bird … he sealed his wife up in the central pillar and the build went swimmingly thereafter.  Seem to have heard this theme before!

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Wrong camera lens, but you can just make out a pelican along the causeway to Koronissia.

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Our fabulous parking.

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922-924: Marvellous Metsovo & Meteora

922- Saturday 9th December 2017:  Metsovo and Fancy Bumping Into You Again! 

Ah yes – Metsovo – at the second attempt….. Narrowing roads approaching the town – instinct to park before the actual town – but a local shopkeeper said there was ample parking in the town centre? Ok, I gentled Jez down the hill along narrower streets – “Castelbellissimo”feelings – lots of people giving us directions…. cobbled street section – my stomach was in my underpants… into town centre and no hope of parking! K spotted while I reversed – and only way out was back up the same way – now my underpants were in my stomach (does that work?). Going well – and a massive coach appeared in our way – oh dear – underpants being waved out the window in surrender!  But the coach reversed and I gunned Jez (at 3 mph) back to the original ‘instinctive’ parking.  Underpants retrieved and safely back on my head (Blackadder?). The cunning plan was to have lunch in Jez and brave the throngs of folk downtown – it is Saturday….

Far too busy for us and touristy – cold walk – no coffee possibility as the restaurant were only interested in mega lunch bucks – and legged/Jezzed it out of Metsovo! 

Meteora (hilltop monasteries) was in our sights next – an hour away – chosen campsite was closed for repairs but another one within minutes…. On arrival, we met Chloe and Chris (previously met in Dubrovnik) – settled in and – drinkies pre-prandial in our van. Then – fantastic meal in local restaurant – coffee and nightcap….

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Metsovo:  weathly town under Ottoman rule as they kept the mountain pass open.  Known for wood carving and textiles … tourist prices, so we passed!

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A loose young puppy … God knows how big it’ll grow … played. 

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Our first view of the odd hills in Meteora.

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Always a good omen when a rainbow is over our destination.

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Another DRY?! night with Chloe and Chris!  My veal liver was AMAZING.  But portions are silly … we all took away doggy bags.

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We had been listening to Christmas Carols, so I was finally moved to get “Christmas in a Box’ out of the garage! 

923- Sunday 10th December 2017:  Aura in Met-eora

No ‘overhangs’ this am – we wouldn’t like to ‘hangover’ these cliffs towering above us….. fond ‘adieu’ to Chris and Chloe. They’re heading to Sicilia for the festive season…..

More ‘feckin’ bike problems – punctures….. As K says “F**k a***e b*m t*t” – we need a shyke bop, soon. Our host promptly offered to bring me tomorrow to his friend in the local bipesock – on his motorbike…. These people are amazing!  But our bike ride to the monasteries became a walk up and down.  No text will out-describe the photos – I know we use the ‘amazing’ word a lot – so we should!  Over to our par excellence K-ographer! 

Oscar has lots of doggy friends on site – one in season?  Ginger BrummieGreek puppies?  

As Mateora is a major Greek highlight, here’s loads of information around about Meteora and the monasteries so I will not cover it in detail …  in essence … natural sandstone towers were first used as a religious retreat by Barnabas in AD925, then from the 1300s monks started building monasteries – the first being Megalou Meteorou by St Anthanasios … who flew up to the pinnacle on the back of an eagle.  We mere mortals walked!  There were 24 monasteries / hermitages, but all but 6 are now ruins. It is thought that the locals were expert in rock climbing, but once the first man was up, they hauled everything else they needed up.   In the 1920’s stairs were cut into the rock to make them accessible.  Coaches passed the campsite in a slow but steady stream all day … it must be very unpleasant in the summer.  

For us, the scenery and feat of building the monasteries that we found so amazing (had to get one amazing in there!)

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Oscar … you’re ambitious!

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Part of Megalou Meteorou, the largest and oldest, which had a number of museums, a kitchen, beautifully frescoed church and an ossuary.

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924 – Monday 11th December:  Jobs in Met-eora

Monday morning came and at the appointed hour of 10:00 am, I brought the offending bike wheel and spare inner tube to our host for him to kindly take on via motorbike to his friend’s shop in town.  “No, he said” to me “you’re coming with me”. Now the last time I was on a motorbike was 50 years ago!  I got astride his Honda Cub – one hand clutching the wheel – and the other grasping his jacket – no crash helmet – and off we went at medium speed through the wiggly streets….. No need to slow at ‘Stop’ signs (he knows the roads – I comforted myself). I was definitely back in Sicilia! Was I wearing the same underpants as yesterday in Metsovo? (I do change them regularly once a month, I think…)   Digression here – 100 years ago, I worked with a Chartered Accountant – who once proudly told me “I have a bath regularly – every Saturday night whether I need one or not – with my wife!”.  For those Chartered Accountants reading this (1?) – I’m quite sure the profession has excellent ‘lavaggio’ practices – always subject to audit, of course…and in strict accordance with the FSA (Freshly Showered Abluthority)…  

Back on script – we arrived in no time at friend’s shop – who promptly diagnosed a wrong sized tyre (this is a brand new e-bike of stout German manufacture!) and immediately fitted a different size and new inner tube – all in 15 minutes and for only Euro15.  Our host has brought us water and coffee every morning too.  These people are amazing – we absolutely love Greece – roll on the next few months!!!  

Relaxing jobs day – laundry, engine checks and van cleaning and self cleaning – we do it every 5/6 days – and we’re accounting to ‘SAF’ (ShowerAnyFriday) Standards…..

We’ll be really sorry to leave this ‘kooky’ site, the folks here and Meteora.

919-921: The Start of Our Greek Odessy

919- Wednesday 6th December 2017: Off to Greece

We completed our services and took the short drive to Igoumentisa port. A long wait of 3 hours….  Some trucks reversing – all over the place (health and safety – but it all works in an Italian beautifully organised disorganised way – bellissimo!.  Where do they put them all?  Ah .. two levels.  Loaded last as first off, most vehicles going onto Patra … we turned around on top deck.  Lots of areas on board closed as not enough passengers … self service restaurant shut till 7.00 p.m. … K had bought a cold supper as we’d been told the food is expensive and not marvellous … so we sat in the cabin and ate that as a late lunch,  fortunately we did not need supper.  Would have been complicated anyway – we’d either have had to eat taking it in turns or leave Oscar alone in the cabin – as we know from the howls that another couple did!   Coffee EUR2.50 each – not paid that since Nice area!

Oscar pooped on the poop deck!  So proud!

Nanny nap, research on Greece, showers (hot and forceful, but didn’t drop the soap – just as well as no room to pick it up!) more wine — bed in stuffy room. 18 hour crossing……………. successfully completed.

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May not be a cruise ship despite the name … Cruise Olympia, but significantly better than the Helsinki-St Petersburgh ship. 

920- Thursday 7th December:  What an Amazing First Day

The same free-for-all disembarking.  Straight onto A2 motorway – brand new with EU money – that route or our destination would have been very wiggly … toll £5.30 for not very far … will need to check roads out – can we do non motorway?  Anyway, we are in Greece – my first time (and Oscar’s) but K was here 30 years ago…..

Dodani … holy oak tree – revered by frenzied priestess and priests, they slept on their floors and didn’t wash their feet!  The Romans chopped the tree down and built temples and an amphitheatre.  

Another nanny nap in the car park as sleep was not great on the Adriatic/Aegean Sea. Good ruins but we always think of Sicilia/Italia as the best – but we will see loads more in Greece.

Iaonnina was our first town destination – walls, lake, castle museums. Superb cheap lunch – yummy.

We drove in the afternoon up the hill to a viewpoint/official motorhome free parking overnight – spectacular views down over the lake…..

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Our first Roman amphitheatre in Greece.

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Originally a Greek site, rebuilt with lots of Roman Temples.

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The original Oak was cut down … the Oracle Priestess would receive slates with questions such as ‘Are my wife’s children mine?”  She would listen to the bottles suspended from the branches that magnified the rustle of leaves and pronounce her answer.  Not sure how she worked in winter when the leaves dropped. 

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… but people obviously still hope it will bring luck and chucked very low value coins in.

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Used to be another 10m on top and seat about 17,000 making it one of the largest in Greece.

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Another Oak waiting for the performance to start.

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J on role reversal … pulling every which way and cocking his leg.  We’re still working on J being the Boss!

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Our walk along the lake to the historic town of Iaonnina.

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Two mosques still in the old town castle, which was the base of Ali Pasha who essentially ruled a massive area as a fiefdom.  This one was the Aslan Pasha mosque 1611 and now municipal museum.  Next door was a Muslim seminary, where Ali Pasha attempted to rate his son’s mistress. For refusing the tyrant’s advances, she was bound, weighted and thrown into the lake with 17 of her companions.  He also executed a rebel in public by smashing his bones with a sledge hammer.  Nice chap!  A young Lord Byron visited Ali Pasha in 1809, Ali Pasha took rather a shine to Byron… sexual? … as he was taken with Byron’s small ears – a sign of high breeding!

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Inside the Alslan Pasha Mosque.

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Two dishes of the day … lamb stewed with potatoes (falling off the bone) and lamb with fresh tomatoes in a filo parcel served with a rocket, sun dried tom and balsamic salad … with 500cl of local regional wine … £22 with tip.  We’re so going to love these prices … means we can eat out more.

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Spot the snow!

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The wrought iron to the left of the mosque is Ali Pasha and his wife’s grave.  I’d hoped to see the Silverware Museum in one of the Castle’s building, but it shut earlier than advertised.  

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So still – an almost perfect reflection.

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Our night time view point … wonderful.

 

921- Friday 8th December:  Cycling Lake Pamvotidha

 We moved Jez down to the lake side and we cycled 26 km around the lake. Two packs of dogs chased us but they couldn’t work out where Oscar was (concealed in his Os-car).  He went very quiet at all the barking.

Monastery of Dhourahani – very smart and cared for … run as a vocational school for disadvantaged children.  The Churches have lots of paintings of saints, but are very dark.

The obligatory coffee en route…trays of meat and pots ready for the standard late Greek lunchtime (2-3:00 pm).  We’d have stopped as it looked good, but it was only 12.00 and not sure how long we’f be salivating.  We lunched in Ianonnina, more excellent value – and our first Moussaka.

Drove to Metsovo for night stay … very cold … checked weather – one app said snow overnight… risk averse …then drove an hour back down the mountainside … lake side pitch, not far from the monastery – our first ‘wild camping’ in Greece. After only 2 days, we have a good feeling for Greece – like we experienced in Italy. Roll on the next few months. Oscar likes it too – although he doesn’t know which country he’s in – he’s in HappyK9ville, always! 

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Our morning view of the lake … it’s been filled in by mist. 

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Such stillness.

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