1309-1315: Plopping Back In The Peloponnese

1308-1309:  Delighted to be back in the Plops

Friday 4th cont. – Saturday 5th October 2019

We did not disembark until nearly 6.00 pm on Friday and getting too late to drive far.  We only drove 20 mins (after a slight detour and poor navigation – K) to get fuel to N of Patras.  Driving through Patras we were reminded about the double, and occasional triple, parking, Service stations where the attendant fills up for you as standard.  Some remembered shop brands.  All feeling warmly comfortable.

I’d had a slow cooker chicken and Remoska braised fennel on the go on board, using that ‘free’ electricity, so we ate with Jenni and David.

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Camping on Board – view from our hab door.  The route hugs the Italian, then Albanian coasts, past Corfu, docking at Igoumenitsa, before wending its way between mainland Greece and islands.  Under cover was good, as it did rain in the night.

IMG 3632A stoney beach, but great views across to the Rio Antirrio bridge; this , a ferry and across the Corinth canal are the two connection points for the Peloponnese and the mainland.

On Saturday we had a leisurely start and then went wine sniffing!  I know, most people go wine tasting, but we are on Go Sober for October.    

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 Achaia Clauss winery, we enjoyed the tour even though we’d done it before.  Same tour guide.  The winery is the second oldest business in Greece, A bank, this winery and then a chocolate manufacturer!  Some very old valuable carved barrels.  Originally they were made from Russian wood, now wood comes from France.  Jenni and I were caught by a worker with our heads through the window of the more modern production rooms, inhaling the fumes.  James and I couldn’t sample now but we bought a case of Mavro Daphne, a 15% fortified wine that is good with Christmas pudding (sister Clare recognised it as a recommendation by Jilly Goolden) and for cooking … and of course, drinking … but next month!!

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Achaia Clauss.

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And a baby resident bat.

 Jenni and David headed east and we went south to Elea/Elia – so many Greek spellings before you even start on the Greek alphabet.

1310:  El-aundry

Sunday 6th October 

We had stayed at Elea before and knew of a tap, that is not on the map, so not too busy around there.  We hogged the tap and once I finally got out of bed … (that 10cm memory foam topper is truly comfy!), we got down to jobs.  A blind fix, laundry, a bit of admin and an Oscar prune … he struggles with the heat.  

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And some dog walks.

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Before  … shaggy and hot …

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 … cool, slim Jim

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Our peace was disturbed by a trials bike churning up the sand dunes for a little while, but it returned with a lovely sunset.

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1311:  Gotta Gia-lova Lagoon

Monday 7th October 

We stayed at another favourite site … Gialova Lagoon.  A stunning location.  Great walk up to the castle and sitting on the beach with my knitting until the rain started.

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The Maps.Me image shows the lagoon, horseshoe bay and protected harbour.

1312-13:  Nothing Naf in Nafplio

Tuesday 8th – Wednesday 9th October 

We headed across to Nafplio – another re-visit.  Jenni and David met up with us there and cooked us supper.  The second night we ate out … We’d not planned to stay two nights, but a smart town to wander around, good company and sunshine  … and inertia set in.  And my first sloooow run in months!  

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A grey day when we arrived, but the sun came out in force on day 2.  This cruise ship behind us kept its engines running till it thankfully buggered off about 10.00 p.m.

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The fort island and dredging.  

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4th attempt by the waiter to take a shot of us without camera shake … we’ve come across this before where younger than us don’t know how to use a camera … as against a phone!  Please note J is on 0% beer and I’m on water!  


1314: A Non-acquisition in Acorinth

Thursday 10th October 

We headed off to Corinth, leaving Jenni and David with more inertia in Nafplio.  Destination – the vet that did Corrie’s blood tests, neutering and Pet Passport etc when we found her up the hill at Acorinth Feb 2018.  Oscar was due a Kenel Cough vaccination.  Our normal vet was operating – through an open doorway, but waved.  The young vet remembered us and even Corrie’s name!  Vaccination done, general health inspection and a new passport for O, as we’ve run out of vaccination pages … total bill EUR35.  Later that evening, I realised that it seems Corrie had never had a KC and Oscar was due a Lepto and the triple 3 yearly vaccinations.  Quick email to our Farnham vet to have this confirmed.  

We headed up to Acorinth, the ancient fortress to over night, which is exactly where we found Corrie.  She seemed to not have any recollection and no-one came banging on our door claiming we’d stolen their dog!  However, we did not expect to find one of her relatives up there all alone.  A tiny pup, with some physical similarities to our Corrie.  Too skinny and wet from the recent downpour.  Other visitors to the site were feeding and making a big fuss of her.  CO2, surprisingly seemed to not be very interested in her …  James kept making puppy dog eyes at  me.  My Mum suggested James go and put his head in a bucket of water!  2 dogs in a van is ENOUGH!  On top of which, a hard Brexit would make getting all the jabs, tests and paperwork done impossible, especially given her young age.  James saw her the next morning, fortunately I didn’t, so I was not put in the position of making the decision to leave her behind.

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1315:  Busy Busy Busy

Friday 11th October 

An ancient site, vet, motorhome repair, lunch and a ferry.  Surely that’s far too much activity for folk that are supposed to be oozing their way around?

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So we actually made it inside the the fortress this time.

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Looking back down to the parking.

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After a bit of a climb up part of the fortress (not much standing other than walls, but you really get a sense of the size of the place) and coffee, we headed back down to Corinth to the vet.  Both had their jabs and the vet asked how old Oscar was.  Nearly 6 … “OK we check his prostate”.  So poor lamb had a finger up his bum and when the vet squeezed, I had to watch Oscar’s face for any signs of pain.  Relieved I didn’t have to do this for James’ prostate examinations!  EUR40 for all the injections – so much cheaper than home.   The vet called us ‘nice people’ … I think he really meant soft!  We told him we had been tempted to bring him another stray … he was pleased we hadn’t for our sakes, I think, and said about how many un-homed dogs there are.

Our kitchen tap had sprung a leak along the arm and was still leaking despite the application of glue.  Given how long we plan to be away this trip, we headed off to the motorhome repair place who fitted the rear air suspension early April 2018.  The mechanic found an Adria tap at EUR110, before labour.  We gasped and would have put up with the leak, but he found one at EUR55 plus 20 for labour.  Still more expensive that we’d expected … but ho hum.  It would have been “a lot more money’ had I paid by card and asked for a receipt.  I watched the owner fold the notes into his top pocket.  

We dropped down to a beach location just past all the oil refineries and petrochemical smells … lunch right by the beach.  It would have been a great place to sleep, but I rang Anek ferries.  Yes, they could move our crossing forward from tomorrow to tonight.  Yay … we’re off to Crete.

J rested and I dog walked and knitted in the sun until it was time to set off.  A quick stop at the entrance to the port to swap our paper tickets over and then straight onto the ferry.   At reception our cabin was assigned and a pale blue and white stripe waist coated porter took us to our cabin – it was ready despite being 2.5 hours before the ferry was due to leave.  No camping on board in Greece … Lin told me the Greek government likes the revenue of additional cabin sales.  

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Not pooping on the poop deck … crossed legs for Corrie.

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CO2 are NOT allowed on the beds or chairs in Jez … but they hopped up pretty pronto.  Not sure where I was supposed to sleep!  Curled up around them … 

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The cabin newspaper had 3 pages all about Brexit and a double page spread about BoJo.  would have loved to have been able to read it and see what their take on it is … although given the conversations we’ve had with all nationalities, it is not good.  This is the first time we’ve been away since the referendum where people are asking us what on earth is going on.  As if we have any idea either!  


 

955-961: Reoccuring Meetings

955 – Sunday 14th January 2018:  Gialova Castle and Lagoons.

Ag Kiriaki harbour was the perfect peaceful overnight and we awoke to beautiful clear blue skies.  As I was still suffering from a minor ‘mancold/chill’ – and requiring R&R……K and Oscar ran in the am.  We jezzed a short distance to – Gialova Lagoon – another amazing wilding spot.  My recuperation was proceeding in a ‘manly’ fashion – men are so brave – how do ladies cope with these ailments?  I couldn’t possibly comment!  We met Tony – Greek resident from God’s own country – Wales!  He gave us loads of advice on walking routes….. K had a fantastic walk to the Castle and 360 degree views… K: coming down to Nestor’s Cave from the castle was seriously steep.  my knees are not brilliant and my sense of balance abysmal … even with the metal foot bars and railings, I was reduced to all fours on more than one occasion!
 
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We didn’t get washed away at Ag Kiriaki harbour, but woke to brilliant blue skies 🙂
 
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Our two night pitch.  Gialova Lagoon behind and the Bay of Navarino in front.
 
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A climb up to Old Navarino Castle, another Franco Venetian construction, huge but lacking any restoration.  In fact signs say it is dangerous so closed.  At the base, the walk is also shut due to rockfall.  In true Greek style, Oscar and I ignored the signs.

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The most amazing views of the Lagoon and Voidokilia Beach – a perfect horseshoe.

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Such a steep descent from the castle there were metal footholds and a hand rail … down to Nestor’s Cave.  This cave may have been the inspiration for Homer where Nestor and Beleus kept their cows.

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Looking out of Nestor’s Cave.
 

956 – Monday 15th January:  A Leisurely Lagoon Walk

Nice easy 7k walk around the lagoon….later, as we were ‘napping’ – in a state of undress, a knock sounded on the door!  Sue and Mick (from Brighton) had seen our GB reg and introduced themselves…..  Their van was parked about 1k away – so – appointment for post-prandial drinks at 6:00 – as you do…..they have been part time/winter motorhomers for 14 years!  Much chat about places we’ve both visited.  
 
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The lagoon is a bird sanctuary with an easy path around it.

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957 – Tuesday 16th January:  Pylos – Big Night OUT

Showered and de-sanded Jez – a much and frequently needed operation these days. Journeyed to Pylos Harbour – Sue and Mick arrived – closely followed by newcomers (to us) – Helena and Hakan (Swedish) and Ruth and Allen (New Zealanders).  Decision to eat out in local restaurant – all 8 of us.  Pre and after drinkies in Jez – a slightly tipsy agreement to hold an ‘American’ supper on the following night…in ours. 
 
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Our peaceful parking.
 

958 – Wednesday 17th January:  Pylos – A Not So Big Night IN

We stayed in town to shop for the evening while the others visited Nestor’s Palace nearby.  Our trip took in the post office, fish market, supermarket – and coffee!  After last nights late to bed – guess what everyone did in the afternoon – nappyzapped!  K did her starter of aubergeine, tomato and Halloumi, Ruth prepared stuffed squid a la delicious, Helena did a Greek salad – and Sue conjured a gorgeous lemon meringue pie!  Did we sup well?   Someone had a bottle of port……
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We thought 7 eating in Jez was pushing it, but now we are up to 8.  9?  I think not!

959 – Thursday 18th January:  Being Blown off the Harbour and Methoni

In the night, the wind did blow – and blow – up to 62kph gusts!  We rocked and rolled – we had sited Jez to face the wind – but the clever wind anticipated us and changed direction. We’ve never had our wheels in the sea water.  Early morning all 4 vans took shelter back at the end of the harbour parking – much relief…vans covered with encrusted salt….leisure batteries on very low voltage.
 
To Methoni – castle visit in the gales (see photos) and on to a small campsite to recharge batteries – wash Jez, hand washing laundry and selfshowering.  Our other recent friends will be following our path along the coast towards Kalamata.  
 
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Our peaceful harbour wall became a roller coaster ride with 62 kph gusts and spray coming over us.
 
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Methoni castle – one of the pair of Venetian ‘eyes’ with the sea on 3 sides and a moat landward.  It was huge and contained hammams, a church a huge market place, and a main street.

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The French built the arched bridge across the moat in 1828.  Don’t be fooled by the stunning blue sky … the winds had NOT abated!

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Going into the marketplace.

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The Bourtzi was a prison island.  Accessed by a causeway, which was totally impassable impassable today – either you’d have been blown off or washed off.
 
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Peaceful and windless view from our camping pitch at Camping Thines.  EUR14 incl. EHU.  The young manager told me that the massive hail storm last Sunday had been the case of the road to the village to collapse – he’s not sure when the municipality will repair the damage.

960 – Friday 19th January:  Koroni and Kalamata

K and O ran around Finikounda, which was pretty – lots of open bars and restaurants.  

Koroni for lunch and walk – Sue and Mick passed and stopped to chat – we’ll see them later at Kalamata Marina wild parking. We perambulated the village and castle – and met Tony (again)!  He became our impromptu tour guide – he’s considering another adventure – in India! 

En route to Kalamata, our Colin SatNav said “After 2 kilometres, turn right on Calamitous Road”!!!  Even Oscar jumped!  OK, it was Colin’s pronunciation of “Kalamata’s Road”.  Overnight at the Marina was €12 with eclectic, sorry electric, toilets, showers and laundry facilities – excellent value.  It should have been a ‘dry’ night – but with Sue and Mick, we pushed the boat out in a local restaurant (nice pun, James). €80 for 4 meals – 2 courses and copious wine!  Lovely quality food and fresh fish 🙂

A quiet sheltered night – no wind.
 
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Koroni:  Seen livestock in towns, but not geese blocking the pavement before.

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 A larger town than Methoni.
 
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Walk around the base of the castle … it seems to be held up with spray on concrete!
 

961 – Saturday 20th January:  Kalamatious Laundry!

Loaded washing machine with our bedding …. water off in town!  Long wait for water and laundry completion – then town walk – not the prettiest place but interesting. I replenished my vape supplies. Mike and Sue left for Mycene and we encountered Hakan and Helena who were off to stay at a local village – sure we’ll wee them all again on our travels around Greece.  Wonder where the NZ couple are?
 
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Other than the restaurants, this seems to be the main (only?) attraction of Kalamata … a collection of trains and carriages in a central park.
 
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Our Marina pitch.