1309-1315: Plopping Back In The Peloponnese

1308-1309:  Delighted to be back in the Plops

Friday 4th cont. – Saturday 5th October 2019

We did not disembark until nearly 6.00 pm on Friday and getting too late to drive far.  We only drove 20 mins (after a slight detour and poor navigation – K) to get fuel to N of Patras.  Driving through Patras we were reminded about the double, and occasional triple, parking, Service stations where the attendant fills up for you as standard.  Some remembered shop brands.  All feeling warmly comfortable.

I’d had a slow cooker chicken and Remoska braised fennel on the go on board, using that ‘free’ electricity, so we ate with Jenni and David.

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Camping on Board – view from our hab door.  The route hugs the Italian, then Albanian coasts, past Corfu, docking at Igoumenitsa, before wending its way between mainland Greece and islands.  Under cover was good, as it did rain in the night.

IMG 3632A stoney beach, but great views across to the Rio Antirrio bridge; this , a ferry and across the Corinth canal are the two connection points for the Peloponnese and the mainland.

On Saturday we had a leisurely start and then went wine sniffing!  I know, most people go wine tasting, but we are on Go Sober for October.    

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 Achaia Clauss winery, we enjoyed the tour even though we’d done it before.  Same tour guide.  The winery is the second oldest business in Greece, A bank, this winery and then a chocolate manufacturer!  Some very old valuable carved barrels.  Originally they were made from Russian wood, now wood comes from France.  Jenni and I were caught by a worker with our heads through the window of the more modern production rooms, inhaling the fumes.  James and I couldn’t sample now but we bought a case of Mavro Daphne, a 15% fortified wine that is good with Christmas pudding (sister Clare recognised it as a recommendation by Jilly Goolden) and for cooking … and of course, drinking … but next month!!

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Achaia Clauss.

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And a baby resident bat.

 Jenni and David headed east and we went south to Elea/Elia – so many Greek spellings before you even start on the Greek alphabet.

1310:  El-aundry

Sunday 6th October 

We had stayed at Elea before and knew of a tap, that is not on the map, so not too busy around there.  We hogged the tap and once I finally got out of bed … (that 10cm memory foam topper is truly comfy!), we got down to jobs.  A blind fix, laundry, a bit of admin and an Oscar prune … he struggles with the heat.  

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And some dog walks.

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Before  … shaggy and hot …

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 … cool, slim Jim

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Our peace was disturbed by a trials bike churning up the sand dunes for a little while, but it returned with a lovely sunset.

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1311:  Gotta Gia-lova Lagoon

Monday 7th October 

We stayed at another favourite site … Gialova Lagoon.  A stunning location.  Great walk up to the castle and sitting on the beach with my knitting until the rain started.

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The Maps.Me image shows the lagoon, horseshoe bay and protected harbour.

1312-13:  Nothing Naf in Nafplio

Tuesday 8th – Wednesday 9th October 

We headed across to Nafplio – another re-visit.  Jenni and David met up with us there and cooked us supper.  The second night we ate out … We’d not planned to stay two nights, but a smart town to wander around, good company and sunshine  … and inertia set in.  And my first sloooow run in months!  

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A grey day when we arrived, but the sun came out in force on day 2.  This cruise ship behind us kept its engines running till it thankfully buggered off about 10.00 p.m.

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The fort island and dredging.  

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4th attempt by the waiter to take a shot of us without camera shake … we’ve come across this before where younger than us don’t know how to use a camera … as against a phone!  Please note J is on 0% beer and I’m on water!  


1314: A Non-acquisition in Acorinth

Thursday 10th October 

We headed off to Corinth, leaving Jenni and David with more inertia in Nafplio.  Destination – the vet that did Corrie’s blood tests, neutering and Pet Passport etc when we found her up the hill at Acorinth Feb 2018.  Oscar was due a Kenel Cough vaccination.  Our normal vet was operating – through an open doorway, but waved.  The young vet remembered us and even Corrie’s name!  Vaccination done, general health inspection and a new passport for O, as we’ve run out of vaccination pages … total bill EUR35.  Later that evening, I realised that it seems Corrie had never had a KC and Oscar was due a Lepto and the triple 3 yearly vaccinations.  Quick email to our Farnham vet to have this confirmed.  

We headed up to Acorinth, the ancient fortress to over night, which is exactly where we found Corrie.  She seemed to not have any recollection and no-one came banging on our door claiming we’d stolen their dog!  However, we did not expect to find one of her relatives up there all alone.  A tiny pup, with some physical similarities to our Corrie.  Too skinny and wet from the recent downpour.  Other visitors to the site were feeding and making a big fuss of her.  CO2, surprisingly seemed to not be very interested in her …  James kept making puppy dog eyes at  me.  My Mum suggested James go and put his head in a bucket of water!  2 dogs in a van is ENOUGH!  On top of which, a hard Brexit would make getting all the jabs, tests and paperwork done impossible, especially given her young age.  James saw her the next morning, fortunately I didn’t, so I was not put in the position of making the decision to leave her behind.

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1315:  Busy Busy Busy

Friday 11th October 

An ancient site, vet, motorhome repair, lunch and a ferry.  Surely that’s far too much activity for folk that are supposed to be oozing their way around?

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So we actually made it inside the the fortress this time.

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Looking back down to the parking.

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After a bit of a climb up part of the fortress (not much standing other than walls, but you really get a sense of the size of the place) and coffee, we headed back down to Corinth to the vet.  Both had their jabs and the vet asked how old Oscar was.  Nearly 6 … “OK we check his prostate”.  So poor lamb had a finger up his bum and when the vet squeezed, I had to watch Oscar’s face for any signs of pain.  Relieved I didn’t have to do this for James’ prostate examinations!  EUR40 for all the injections – so much cheaper than home.   The vet called us ‘nice people’ … I think he really meant soft!  We told him we had been tempted to bring him another stray … he was pleased we hadn’t for our sakes, I think, and said about how many un-homed dogs there are.

Our kitchen tap had sprung a leak along the arm and was still leaking despite the application of glue.  Given how long we plan to be away this trip, we headed off to the motorhome repair place who fitted the rear air suspension early April 2018.  The mechanic found an Adria tap at EUR110, before labour.  We gasped and would have put up with the leak, but he found one at EUR55 plus 20 for labour.  Still more expensive that we’d expected … but ho hum.  It would have been “a lot more money’ had I paid by card and asked for a receipt.  I watched the owner fold the notes into his top pocket.  

We dropped down to a beach location just past all the oil refineries and petrochemical smells … lunch right by the beach.  It would have been a great place to sleep, but I rang Anek ferries.  Yes, they could move our crossing forward from tomorrow to tonight.  Yay … we’re off to Crete.

J rested and I dog walked and knitted in the sun until it was time to set off.  A quick stop at the entrance to the port to swap our paper tickets over and then straight onto the ferry.   At reception our cabin was assigned and a pale blue and white stripe waist coated porter took us to our cabin – it was ready despite being 2.5 hours before the ferry was due to leave.  No camping on board in Greece … Lin told me the Greek government likes the revenue of additional cabin sales.  

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Not pooping on the poop deck … crossed legs for Corrie.

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CO2 are NOT allowed on the beds or chairs in Jez … but they hopped up pretty pronto.  Not sure where I was supposed to sleep!  Curled up around them … 

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The cabin newspaper had 3 pages all about Brexit and a double page spread about BoJo.  would have loved to have been able to read it and see what their take on it is … although given the conversations we’ve had with all nationalities, it is not good.  This is the first time we’ve been away since the referendum where people are asking us what on earth is going on.  As if we have any idea either!  


 

949-954: GORGEous, Follies and Flowers

949 – Monday 8th January 2018:  Monastery Walk

At 9:30 am (early or what?), we embarked on what would be a 10k walk steeply up and down along the gorge. Oscar ‘em barked his way too….but his ‘em barking settles when we’re underway.  We followed a path carved by the monks for their donkeys hundreds of years ago – still droppings on the way so it’s still used to transport stuff to the monasteries.  After a short time, we came to the Prodhromou Monastery – literally clinging to the steep cliffs – it looked almost as if the rock had been carved to accommodate the structures. I went in and viewed the kooky stairways and rooms – very quiet and definitely contemplative.  On we went down and up and the other way around – past rushing streams – while Oscar bashed our legs with his usual selection of sticks!  The Monastery of Nea Filosoou was more modern and we entered the courtyard to be greeted by a charming monk who gave us water and Turkish Delight sweets!  We’ve since herd that the Greeks don’t call it Turkish Delight, but just Delight!   It was necessary to tie O up in the yard – he vocally made his objections clear…  The chapel is lovely and small.. Only 2 monks live there – our host had been in residence for 8 years.   Super frescoes.
 
Back retracing our footsteps and down to the actual gorge itself. Ancient Gortys nestled at the bottom. I nestled my feet as this septuagenarian was feeling slightly tired – age related? 
Back up again to the original path and after only (?) 3.5 hours – to good old Jez….. my feet took a direction in the door, past the executive bathroom and into the royal bedchamber where they forced me to recline….  But a stunning day – excellent walking and views to die for…..
Same overnightly – and even more quiet than last night………
 
 
 
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Hard to see, but there is a chapel on the right and another on the left of the gorge, so our walk will go down and then up … and then in reverse!  Demitsana nestles at the head of the gorge.  

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Zoom lens to see the chapel at the right hand Monastery of Prodhromou C12.
 
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Part of the easier donkey path, carved out by the monks.

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Wow, turn a corner and this is the Monastery with living accommodation … all clinging to the cliff.

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Looking back at the Monastery of Prodhromou.

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The gorge is 300m deep and the water powered around rocks.

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Nea Filosoou Monastery:  C17.  Restored 
 
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Church with 1663 frescoes …
 
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Ancient Gortys at the other end of our gorge walk.  Temple to Asklepios God of Healing, a therapeutic centre, from 4BC.
 
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Taken from Ancient Gortys … can just make out the church where Jez is parked.
 
 950 – Tuesday 9th January:  Back to Kaiafa Springs With a Purpose!

Back up the hill from Lousois Gorge – the nightly darkest pitch we’ve ever stayed at……lots of clear stars overhead.  Powered to Dimitsana Water Power Museum – open all days – except Tuesday!  But their car park contained a water supply – so Jez got his fill.  Lunch and admin in van – with Wifi.
Across the mountains towards Kaifia Springs (again – second stay).  More lovely hill towns and a stop at Langardia for coffee – very narrow streets (have we written about these before?) – mega reversing to pass oncoming coach.  The usual visit to Lidl – and then the wild parking at the Springs – one other van (German) for company.  
 
Now during the food prep, K opened the door of an overhead locker, taking the usual precaution of placing her hand to prevent anything falling on her nod…  well, this Greek olive oil bottle had other ideas – avoided her grasp – and in true aviation style – flew around the kitchen!!!   I was outside and heard the anthem “F**k a**e bum t*t” in her melodious and high pitched voice…..the glass was everywhere – floor, rugs – and next morning – even in the blinking shower!  The oil had attached itself to floor and all vertical surfaces, including K – not that she’s a vertical surface….. Oscar and I escaped.  Clearing up took a good hour – the unanticipated benefit was a thorough kitchen clean!   
 
 
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Sorry a few final pix of our loveliest of spots, taken with J’s mega zoom lens.  The chapel – our van view.

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Ancient Gortys and St Andrews Chapel.

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The second monastery.

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Spontaneous stop in pretty Langadia.  Not sure when the Christmas decs will come down.

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Watching busses and a huge lorry negotiate the narrow roads.

951 – Wednesday 10th January:  Spring Swim and Laundry

Morning – and my water babe took to the Springs – the reason we had come back here.  Vaulting high into the air straight over the gate – well climbing actually but the high jump sounded better…back in Jez – the sweet aroma of sulphur pervaded…… showered and brekkied, we eased back to Elea beach wilding spot – same pitch looking at the rolling seas…..  (I had declined the Springs due to a ‘mancold’, manifestly – not testily or feistily).  
 
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A swift climb over the gate and in – we’d seen locals do this on our last stay here.  The old bath house has just been left as an eyesore; the new on is adjacent.  The water gurgles up from inside the cave.

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Maddy’s Bad Hair Day Shower cap!

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952 – Thursday 11th January:  Easy to Supper

Slow easy day start, beach walking………..Rod and Bernadette came to supper – brought flowers and a yummy lemon curd – much chat and easy company…..we parted with them at 2:00 am!!!  
 
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Rod picked these from their garden … they are just delightful and still have a wonderful scent.  Absolutely years since anyone has given me flowers, other than James, of course!

953 – Friday 12th January:  Admin and Rest

Another restful day – some admin, including updating our spreadsheet re putative house purchase in France…..  Verdict …Yes we can afford to live if we buy in France 🙂
 
 

954 – Saturday 13th January:  Follies in Filiatra

A really sad adieu to Elea wilding after a total of 9 days!  Highly recommended, indeed.  Met Phil and Carol at Lidl – and on the Filiatra, via the Fairy Castle and Eiffel Tower.  Overnight on a lovely harbourside wilding, with the sea washing over the wall behind us – I wonder what time high tide will be?  
 
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A Greek, Dr. Harry Fournier, returned from Chicago in the 1960’s built this … his son has restored it.

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 I only spotted Oscar’s wee activity when I looked at the pix on the computer…

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… pleased to say J is not following suit.
 
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A Poseidon’s horse building.

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And he built a mini Tour Eiffel just into Filiatra.
 
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Our overnight stop Ag. Karachi.  Just hoping the wind is not up, or we will get a wave drenching!
 
 
 
Oscar’s Diary

They tell me I’ve been quite a few day at ‘Ellyyah’ – it’s good here – lots of nice K9 friends, girls and boyos….good humanoids as well, I must mention.  
 
K phoned her Mum (and Dad) – they’re off to someplace called  “Eeejit” which is east of here with also sandy beaches – and Kyro (sounds Greek to me) has somethings called Pyromids and Spanks (very naughty, Grahame and Diane!).   Now most folk would say  “Morning Mum – how are you this fine day?”  Not our K – no need to roll out the nice-titties, sorry niceties… “It’s only I – can you bring some coryanngle to Athens?”   Blinking BT will never make money from the Leslie Clan!  If I tried asking for my dinner like that “Katherine – it’s only O – dinner now pronto?”  My backside would be whinging it’s way to Solihull…
 
Oh well, there’s newt as frog as folk, as the poet said….. this was short as time presses – people to see.
 
Efharisto.
 
Oscar
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


 
 
 
 


943-944: Happy New ‘Elea’

 943 – Saturday 30th December 2017:  Kalo Nero

On leaving the Springs of Kaifa, we noted a pick up with 3 folks in stopped outside the Springs building and climbed over the rather spiky gate!  One man of vintage years could have spiked his crown jewels (ouch!) but managed ok….. well, I thought – maintenance/cleaning workers?  Nope – they went around the side and stripped off – to swimming costumes – to take the waters!!!  Had we known earlier, we could have had ’Spring showers’ au naturelle’.   
 
Mega New Year food shopping…….reached our beachside pitch at Kalo Nero – set up shop and perambulated along the seafront.  Voices beside us – “Are you the Brits in the motorhome?”  (Well, I suppose I’m an adoptive Brit? – and Oscar is a Brummie Welshie…).  It was Bernadette and Rod – 10-year residents in the area – and part time motorhomers…..  They know ‘Boxerman’/Dave and San and Phil whom we will meet soon at Elea. 
 
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View from our window at Springs of Kaiafa.

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That’s us excused swimming then!

IMG 0386Walk along Kalo Nero.

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Beach front pitch at Kalo Nero.

 

944 – Sunday 31st December 2017:  Happy New Elyea

Morning boulevarding and Jezzied on down to Elea – to the best ‘wilding’ spot we’ve seen, ever possibly. Huge wide open spaces and long beachfront stretching for kilometres. Friendly wild dogs – looked after by a dog sanctuary, thank goodness. Many are shipped to Germany for adoption.  Dave, San and Phil came to our New Year supper – we saw the New Year in alone after the others had departed for their beds. A lovely intro to 2018 – Happy ’18 to all our friends and families everywhere!!!  (K paddled – not addled – and Oscar barked into 2018…).    

K:  Actually, I went paddling, much to Oscar’s dismay … That’ll be the closest I get to the water for a few months!

 
945 – Monday 1st January 2018:  New Year’s Day Tasting Menu

 
This wilding place has water points that you can connect a hose to.  So we laundered and showered (in Jez) by a water point and then moved to firm ground for our pitch of now, several nights.
 
Katherine (Masterchef) provided an…..
 
International Food and Wine Tasting Menu
Foie gras (France) with pomegranate infused onion marmalade (Bosnia and Herzegovina) with salad and toasted brioche.  Marsala from Italy.
Scallops oven baked with butter and mild curry (Guernsey, hand dived by Chris and Chloe).  Mantineia, a dry white from Greece.
Duck Gessiers (Gizzards to you and me from France) with an aubergine, red pepper and onion salad.  Gustav Clauss dry red from Greece.
Cheeses (Greece)
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946 – Tuesday 2nd January:  Easy Does It!

In this fabulous spot, the sand attaches to everywhere in the van so a constant battle to keep him clean – Oscar contributes – not to the cleaning – but to the sand disposal by bringing in more of the gritty stuff. But, it’s well worth the location.   

A few mending jobs such as sticking hooks up. A steady flow of people to chat to … Dave and San dog walking in for coffee, Frenchman who stopped work age 47, nice Burster but knackered fridge – new at €2000!   Bernadette and Rod stopped by for vino – Rod left his jacket but we’ll see them tomorrow….  Quite heavy rain overnight.
 
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944 – Wednesday 3rd January:  Another Hair Chop

Off to Kyparissia for a K coiffure….a mere ‘snip’ at €30.  Coffee with Bernadette and Rod – he repossessed his jacket. Harbour walk and lunch – Oscar was allowed in (only small dogs) – well he’s small/medium……
Back to the same splendid beachside pitch to chill…….
 
 
Oscar’s Blog

They tell me we’re still in Greece – in Pollyknees which is an island and was part of the mainland. But someone cut a currant canal and spent time raisin it – do yiz get it?  Currants and raisins?  It’s the way I tell ‘em!  That was Frank Carson, by the way…  Well my currant owners (but I will keep them) have taken me from post to pillar, mostly ‘wilding’ and some sampkites – but – they have found me the most amazing wilding place – several chronometers long – beachside – and NO NEED FOR A LEAD – whoopee!!!  Loads of wild dogs but friendly – we met humanoids too – Dave and San and Phil and a French couple to whom I could say ‘Bon jewel, mes ami…”.  No slouch me in the old ‘linguafranglais’ deportment…… and I can walk well too… 
 
Oh, and K had a haircut……
 
“What is this life if full of hair
we have no time to chop in chair
no time to sit beneath the drier
and share a coffee with the sheep”
 
Ok, it went a bit awol at the end – but you cannot beat a bit of poultery!
 
Great balls of super glue … good for chewing …. my owners checked me out and I’m still In Tack.  
 
Oscar – leadless – not legless…