An Unsubmerged Village and a Monumental Plane Tree

Aposelemis Reservoir

3rd March 2025

We left our gorge overnight location and walked the 1km to the village – through and headed for the barragem. About 3km on the road  – we heard a sheep’s cry ! A newly born lamb appeared with its umbilical cord. It stuck to us and was obviously hungry  – would not take water. We decided to take it back to the village and look for someone to help.  A shepherd we spoke to said he might know the lambs flock and took it from us. With a “efharisto,” we turned back on the road to the reservoir and deserted village…  The reservoir was almost empty, and the village was high and dry. We took a shorter road back to the village. It was “clean Monday” – the precursor to Lent in Greece – the taverna beckoned – wine  appeared as if by magic! We managed to consume a half kilo with crisps… a further vino jug was brought with lunch  – the road back to the van took no time.

Nearly new member to our family … NOT!

Krasi and Gouves

4th March

After a restful night we headed in Jez to Kera a town with a famous tree! Parking at a basketball pitch – up in the plateia – the oldest plane tree in the world (?) – 2,400 years old! It suffered storm damage recently, as the photos show.

Apparently the trunk needs 12 men linking hands to encompass it. The top was decapitated by a lightening strike, then recently a large branch fell. So sad that after 2,400 years, the recent years have not been good.

We directed our van to Gouves on the seafront via some sharp twists and turns  – to a beach wild camping place – it’s lovely to camp and hear the waves. Eggy lunch – I napped and K walked C. Then we sought a cafe for coffee and biscuits  – not vino! Back via the beach to chill for the evening….

Meeting Zorba the Greek

5th March

Meeting Zorba the Greek, well his author. Well, to be really truthful, not the author himself as he’s long since deceased. The museum is dedicated to him. Nikos Kazantzakis was recommended to us after James recently gave a talk on James Joyce. Both reacted to the restrictions and controls dictated by the Church, lived for years with their lovers before marrying and travelled. But actually, I thought Kazantzakis is Joyce on steroids. He travelled and lived in many countries worldwide, studied religions, held government offices, had books placed on the Vatican banned list … and had 2 long term lovers whom he finally married (not concurrently!).  I’ve just started Zorba the Greek audio book. Stunning descriptions and use of language.

A steady drive home to collect the car and give Jez a quick clean, parked up by the beach.
Also collected some parcels from Hassan’s bar … the local police are on a money making exercise … massive fines for any one without an in-date fire extinguisher, enough hi vis for all passengers, triangle and first aid kit. All local shops out of stock, hence the delivery.
Jez back in his secure parking, until 18th March when Jez will get new break pads and disks.

Mini trip East Crete

Going to Gonies

Saturday 1st March 2025

I’d not been sleeping well, worrying about getting Jez out of his parking.  Angles in tight lanes. Overhanging trees. But it was fine … what are a few more scratches!

We parked up at Kalives for me to shop and J to unload the car and fill with water. We hadn’t left the car in the parking, as we realised we’d left the spare van keys at home. J looked when he dropped the car home, but no show. We are being anal about where my set are!

We also had missing phone charging cables. I was sure I’d packed them. But we didn’t find them till the next morning when I went to pack the day walking backpack!  I now have a list of everything to bring!!!

Soup stop en route

On arrival, J nanny napped and I walked.

I visited 2 of the 3 frescoed churches. Only one was open. Lovely 1455 frescoes. The next church was closed, but the bone box storage area was open. The Greeks rent a burial plot for minimum 3 years, then the bones are exhumed.


The Internet shows pictures of the reservoir full of water. Despite only being 1st March, and a lot of rain in February, it is virtually dry.

Parking for the start of Roza Gorge

Roza Gorge

Sunday 2nd March

Thank goodness we took poles. Not a long walk but the ascent was ‘technical’.   The second half was climbing. Corrie had to be helped / pushed three times. We did hear one whimper.  A lot of it is a very narrow track and a sheer 300m drop on one side. Fortunately, strong barriers or it would have been lethal.  But we did it. Slowly!  We watched two ladies attempt to descend, all we could hear was nervous cries! 


Signs top and bottom of the gorge do state that you enter at your own risk. 😆   The walk book authors, where I’d found the walk, declined to descend the same route, so we planned to follow suit.

Kera village at the top boasts two tavernas. We fell into the first one. It was busy with Greeks. The second, when we walked past, was empty. Delicious wood oven pork, chicken and waxy potatoes. 75ml of wine and raki

The easy walking route was further but so much quicker, passing Keras Monastery.

Jez is bottom right
My boot sole just stayed on with the use of a hair band.

Road Trip to Crete

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As we had delayed our departure for James’ blood test and a vaccination and a second trip to the Devon house, we decided to travel fast back. We flew from Crete on 15th August. Over 5 months is TOO long.

Day 1.  This time when we set off, I didn’t chair dance to Abba, so refrained from driving off the road and breaking Jez!  We drove to Le Shuttle via Fanham to drop our aging Merc. Maddy and Jordan have one car and having a second vehicle will save Maddy having to get up early to run Jordan to the station when she is on maternity leave and when the baby arrives.

J has 5 grandchildren, but my first

I was nearly run over by a horn tooting maniac.  I had just come out of the Pet Check In at Folkestone and was walking back to James and Jez. It was Tim behind the wheel. We’d had a great boozy night with him and Meg in Kelso summer ’23. Blame the alcohol, but I called him a rude word. The cause was justified, but not my rudeness!  He forgave me enough, to very kindly offer us a roof when I broke Jez. He was headed to Spain and Portugal, loosely I the company of some other motorhomers that we know.

We kept off payage, driving past Mons, Namur, Arlon and Luxembourg. Motorway diesel €1.55.  Our first night was super quiet near a cemetary just north of Metz.

Day 2 was partly off free motorway, past Nancy and Colmar.  Some lovely scenery of snow on the road margins and vast vineyards. At Basle, we used a QR code to pay £23 for the over 3.5 ton Swiss vehicle pass for 7 days, even though we we through Switzerland in hours.  I’ve driven Switzerland a number of times in recent years in the middle of the night and said to J that I was looking forward to seeing the scenery. Not to be, a light grey mist blanket.  The Gotthard Tunnel on Saturday was free flowing. And traffic was light all the way down.

Night 2 was a rendezvous just S of Como. Sue and Mick and Josie 🐕 had been not far away and had suggested a meet up. Very kindly, they had recce’d parkings and Sue cooked. There may have been a few 🍷 and lots of 🧀 too!

Park up
I found a fit trail, but too cold is my excuse!

On day 3, we actually had a relative lie in. Didn’t leave until 9.30. Only 5.5 hrs driving time. A pit stop at an Ancona hypermarket: Marsala, parmesan and food for the ferry. Ferry departed only 30 mins late.  Trip time to Igouminitsa is 22+ hours, so we pay for a pet friendly cabin.  Picnic super in our cabin and bed.  Single trip €680.

Day 4. Ferry was fine. If long. 23hrs.  And yes, Corrie refused to even pee! No poop on the poopdeck.  We passed the time with a hair dye, eyebrow dye, pedicure, manicure and beard trimming (J obviously!). 
Driving today was a mere 5 mins to a patch of ground only 5 mins from the port.  Priority one was to allow Corrie to relieve herself. She delivered!

Brow dye on … they don’t stay like this!

Day 5 started a lot later than planned. I’d slept badly and switched off the alarm only to go into a deep sleep. No breakfast and late departure after 10.30 meant that  we did not have time for the much looked forward to Greek meal in Corinth.

We need to remember that Anek’s Kissamos ferry is one of the best we’ve sailed on. Big comfy and clean cabin.
We forced down a glass of 🍷 before braving the ferry restaurant. Box wine decanted into a flask 😆 


The posh restaurant was actually very good. A decent bottle of Cretan red and excellent service.
Ferry left soon after 9.00 p.m.  Arrives Heraklion 6.00 a.m.  €721 return. Although Chania closer to home, it would have been €799.  Tolls €74.

Like a bit of table linen

Day 6 started with Japanese torture. Alarm for 5.00 for disembarkation at 6.00.  They evict you from cabins before arrival. So the torture was standing before being allowed onto the car decks. All I could think about was coffee.

First stop to walk Corrie. She was very obliging.  She’d only had to cross her legs and tail for 10 hours this time.
Second stop for coffee! The alarm had woken us at 0500!
I dropped J at the end of our road to fetch the car. Very lovely friends had taken the battery back up to theirs to fully charge it … despite the trickle solar charger, which is obviously useless.

J met me at Almyrida beach.  We spent all day ferrying all the stuff up to our house.  Nikki and Rob assisted with their big car.  We met them later for supper at our fave taverna.

Lovely morning light in Almyrida

June and Karl popped by for coffee. 
Jez was cleaned and deposited at the secure airport parking.


So check out what we brought back. We left by air with 2 suitcases!  And guess what we will be doing for the next few days … trying to find places to put it all!

And that wasn’t all of it!!!

Another Canine Odyssey

Woodlands Farm and Stationary

21/07-28/07/22

Maddy didn’t come down to see us as her boyfriend had caught Covid.  So far, touch wood quickly, we’ve not had it and did not want to risk ourselves or passing it to parents and other family who are immune suppressed.  Sad not to see her, but better safe than sorry.

On Saturday, Stella’s new owners drove down to collect her.  They kindly took us out to lunch to say thank you.  What blew us away was on top of that, they arrived with 3 large boxes.  1. Filled with toys, cool mats and treats for CO2.  2.  Filled with yummies from Waitrose … things we may not get easily in Crete.  3.  Filled with booze!  Incredibly generous.  Just as well they did come for her as J was getting attached … on being asked he had said he would keep her.  So much for our no more dogs rule!  Feck, incidentally, was collected as we arrived in the UK on the M25 … not the live carriageway, of course, but at the services.

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Watching for deer.

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Card from Stella’s owners.

J got his 4th booster.  We ate with the Aged Ps.  BBQ at my sister’s.  And David and Karen (also part of our Turkey lockdown family) came over and stayed 3 nights:  walked, ate at a nice restaurant in Chichester and generally drank too much.  David is the man who ‘has a glue for that’ so he helped with a few maintenance jobs too :).

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Another K9 Odyssey

28/-7-04/08/22

We will be leaving Jez in the UK, but will need to get back to Crete by road as we have CO2 to take with us.  So I flew to Chania to fetch the Greek car and the camping kit.  Thank you to the train strikes  (NOT), J had to drive me even though there’s a perfectly good direct 1 hour train service from Chichester to Gatwick.  I had 4 nights in our Crete house to clean and shut it up for being empty.  Friends had used the house and left just before I arrived and there was just a bit of laundry to finish off. I got to see Gillian, Karl and June and Nicky and Rob.  I’d thought I would have had an empty suitcase coming over.  Paid for when I planned to fly back on my own after returning the van solo to the UK in Sept.  No refund on cases … so I’d offered to bring back anything for friends.  I did some ordering and shopping for us too.  So much so that my case was overweight with HP sauce, stain spray, Worcester sauce etc!  Had to borrow a small cabin bag from the Aged P’s!!!

Cretan Animal Protection had two smallish dogs for me to bring over.  Both absolute sweeties.

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Johnny who had cruised from house to house for left overs.  Had been fostered by a family who all cried when he was collected.  

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Little Alma.  Had been rescued from a couple who were alcohol and drug addicts.  They used to batter her.  When she was removed from their ‘care’ she had to spend weeks in vet hospital.  So nervous that cowered initially, but got used to us and is a real poppet.  Loves cuddles.  She’s available for adoption if anyone reading this is interested.

Gillian had been thinking about coming back to the UK to see her mother and sisters in and around Portsmouth and friends. She suggested joining me on the road trip.  Excellent … spent a lunch with her booking her onto the crossings.

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First ferry.  First Campari.  Daytime crossing from Chania to Pireaus.

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First ferry for dogs.

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Overnight at an AirBnB.  A wander with wine and beer, followed by a few red wines on our balcony.  Bit later to bed than panned!!!

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Coffee stop required after leaving our basic accommodation.

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Ferry No.2  No cabins to be had.  We bought airplane seats at the port.  I paid EUR20, Gillian EUR9!!!  Why????  She’s a certain age! LOL

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Ferry No.2.  Campari No. 2.

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Picnic lunch.  Dogs had been refusing their dog food (kibble supplied by Cretan Animal Protection) so I mixed out left over salmon and sardines with it … which they sucked off and left the biscuits.

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Pre supper drinks!

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Dogs starting to vomit bile and slime as soooo hungry.  They woofed up bread, ham and cheese!

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They also woofed up half a burger each!  The other half was given to Johnny’s new owners in case he refused to eat what they had bought.

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DFDS Calais.  Got here in under 22 hours from Ancona.  Both drove and stopped a couple of times for a nap.  

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White cliffs of Dover.  Always think first time visitors must be disappointed.  No Campari, but Gillian did force down a glass of white!

 

 

07/02: Warring Dogs not Greek Gods!

Dog Relationships

Animals, just like people take others into instant aversion.  I remember Nicky telling me in my youth that my face clearly declared I did not like the new girlfriend of a friend … it became known as my Nadine face.  I’ve learnt to look more impassive since.  Oscar has no such sensibilities … he’s extremely growly and snappy at Feck.  Feck is still very reactive and grumbly, even at little Stella when she wants to play with him.  Poor Feck, don’t think he was ever allowed to play.  We had to re-think how we manage the situation after a particular nasty incident where I was about to walk Feck on the lead with the 3 other loose.  Oscar attacked F resulting in J having received another warning nip (and small bruise) from Feck.  And Feck slipping his collar.  Really concerned we would not be able to catch him, I dived into the van to fetch his food bowl with biscuits.  Talking and moving calmly, i followed him around for a bit … he sniffed always several paces ahead and I rattled his bowl.  Eventually food got his attention and he was captured.  Just call me the dog whisperer!

J and I agreed our stress levels were too high and we needed a better routine.  So now O and F are tied opposite ends of the van.  A dog is held back as the other enters or leaves the van.  Not ideal for either, but it works.  CO2+S are walked separately to F, and if all out together J follows with F behind so O can ignore him!  We did contemplate bolting for the UK to offload poor F, but we calculated it was only 19 days … and we could manage. We brought 2 large dogs back in April last year, whilst a handful, worked.  We have said 4 dogs never again.  Oscar is too unpredictable with whom he will accept.  Oh, I’ve just heard that I’ve 2 dogs to bring back when I fetch the Greek car at the beginning of August!  It’ll be fine, she says hopefully… I won’t have Oscar with me!

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Feck.

A Mini Mainland Holiday

02/07/22:  Departing Crete

Having collected Hercules / Feck and our very expensive fully comprehensive insurance from our broker ( €1891 with discount, and excess of €1650, and only 3rd party for the U.K.), we finished cleaning the house and loaded the car.  Good friends are arriving with 3 boys to use the house on 17th so I even managed to work out how to pull out the sofa bed without getting frustrated and therefore asking James to step in!  Friends of friends are using the house in September and when empty, the fabulous Spiros, our cut-it-all-back-hard gardener, checks on the house and the water metre.  This latter is important … water is fed along overground black pipes along side roads etc to properties.  At least it is for agricultural water.  Traffic and age means the pipes spring leaks. Our landlady had a leak racking up a several hundred euro bill one summer.  We’ve already had a small leak, which was, of course €70 to fix.  Again proof of my trades standard price theory, Spiros messaged … he’s upgraded and reset the irrigation system …. €70!!!

At the airport parking we swapped and unloaded into Jez, leaving the Suzuki for Ian, Mel and 3 boys.  We paid for the parking up to when I collect the car on 28th July from 7th February.  Thrown in 3 car washes at €10 each, the total bill was under €200!  Bloody marvellous, really. CCTV, gated and 24 hr surveillance and it met our insurers terms.

We sailed from Heraklion at 2100hrs just over 2 hours drive away.  Not our choice given Chania port is on our doorstep.  But our choice to have an overnight crossing with a cabin on this date. Didn’t have time to eat on the way or to pick up cabin fodder, so we took it in terms to stay with the dogs or go and eat.  J didn’t stray far from the cabin and had pizza in the bar.  I wandered further and found myself in the waiter service restaurant… no surprises there then!  I was tempted, but given J’s lack of exciting meal, I compromised with the self service restaurant!

With carrying a bag containing wine (we had managed to organise that!) and hanging onto 4 dogs, we couldn’t manage dog beds.  Approaching a flight of stairs and an escalator, we had to do th manual climb, but a member of staff took the heavy bag from me, placing it moving escalator and another chap at the top lifted it back onto my shoulder.  Clever!  I shall remember that.   It was also good to shower after a busy sweaty day!

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I didn’t get much sleep as COS bunked up with me and they’re narrow bunks!  I finally got around to doing some planning for our 9 days on the mainland.

 

03/07/22:  We’ve Been Here Before

6.30 a.m. disembarkation.  It feels early.  It is early.  I did have to pull over for a 20 minute nanny nap after a while.  Our destination was UNESCO Osios Loukas monastery. It had a full page spread in one guide book so I was surprised we had not visited it.   However, we had!.  It was one of those ‘we’ve been here before’ moments.  I’d just not marked it off in the book.   But we’ll worth the €4 to spend nearly a couple of hours wandering around.  Rather than stay in the car park, we drove for 15 mins to a chapel.  It had trees (shade) and a few benches, if rather hard.  Perfect with the dogs as I could let 3 off the lead and walk in various directions.  A much needed easy afternoon.

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Just look at the quality of the road on the mainland  where are the potholes and Oleander growing over?

 

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Osios Loukas monastery.  When we were here in Feb 2020 when the almond blossom was out.

 

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COS walking with Mount Parnassos in the distance.

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Our afternoon and night stay.

04/07/22:  Not Leaves, but Wild Fires De-rail Planning

We both exercised under the shade.  Well, I stopped when I was completely fed up with the wind wrapping my Pilates mat around me!

Our plan was to explore parts of the mainland new.  We set off up towards Thermopylae.  But our best laid plan was thwarted by a wild fire.  J said there is smoke.  No a cloud surely?  You just don’t recognise clouds as we’ve not seen one for ages.  But as we past a couple of farmers on tractors with large water containers, who were diverted off the road along a shortcut, and the cloud looked blacker, I conceded to J.  Needless to say our route was blocked and we were now heading South towards Itea.  We’d stayed here for a couple of nights in early 2020 just before setting off for Turkey, so didn’t really fancy it.  A busy large car park with 4 barking dogs, err no thank you.

We found a lovely peaceful spot past Itea on the water’s edge.   We watched the sea planes come in low, lower and touch down on the water, to collect a belly full to douse the fire.  I’d expected big suspended sacks of water.

Another easy afternoon, although not what planned.  I started the blog post on my MacBook.  Low battery warning.  No problem, I’ll plug in my new charging cable …. No, it won’t work with my 3amp EU to 3 pin plug adaptor.  One dead MacBook!  Grr.

Stella and Oscar came for a swim …

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Yep, definitely looks like smoke from here.

 

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Tractor with water diverted directly to fire.

 

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Smoke in the distance all afternoon and the next morning. 

 

05/07/22:  Left at Lefkada

The sea planes were back at it by breakfast so we surmised the road would still be blocked.  Forget Thermopylae … we will follow the main road along the south and the up the west coast Lefkada … an island joined by a causeway.  Motorhoming friends regularly stay there out of season, so we thought we’d take a gander.  The guide book implied the west coast was quieter, so wither we headed.  Yes quieter … due to the roads … narrow and bendy.  Had to reverse a few times to let SBR, RO, BG, NO and A cars past.  We didn’t like the look of the busy parking spots I had identified … all far too touristy and not great for 4xK9.  Let’s just get off the island!  We stopped and looked at the map.  Unless we went back exactly the was we had come (err, no thank you), we had to carry on heading S to pick up the main road (and we knew it would be a better road as it is orange on the map!) to return north to the causeway.  It had been a long driving day for all of us and was going to be another couple of hours!  About half way back up, we were coming down a mountain and and spotted a sports field adjacent to the water at Vlycho … they usually have parking and it did.

3 of the dogs played in the stagnant, smelly and brown water by us, so I had to walk them along the road to a fresh water area and chuck them in one by one!  I was rather smelly and wet too by this point.  J decided that after all my driving, I should not have to cook.  We were also feeling rather frazzled as Oscar has made it clear he WILL NOT accept Feck.  The grumbling and growling continues and twice now, O has had F by the scruff of the neck and shook him. We are rather shocked by this behaviour in our boy!  Despite us repeatedly telling him that it is only for 3 weeks, O is not reading the Memo.

The local taverna owner was shut as he was getting ready for a big name day celebration tomorrow.  Busy laying out tables and chairs for an anticipated influx of 2000 people. It would be an all night party.  And the following night!  We love a good party, but not when you don’t know anyone and you’ve 4 waring dogs, so we decided to move on the next day.  Helpfully, the taverna owner suggested the yacht club.  It was small and staffed by two lasses from Cork working their summer Uni vacation.  Most customers were faded yachty types.  But it was a typical English pub menu and actually a welcome change from Greek cuisine, much as we love it.  My chicken fajitas (no wrap or rice) were so yummy, I walked back with a very full tummy.

We’ve seen a lot more campers and Motorhomes on the mainland than Crete, as you would expect given the ferry crossing €€€s.  But even more on Lefkada.  None of them wave back … is it us?  But a Hungarian pulled in next to us late.  I warned them that we had 4xK9 thinking that would be a good deterrent.  But no, they repositioned their motorhome even closer!  WHY???  We didn’t see them in the morning when Oscar enthusiastically barked his morning chorus!

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Vlycho 

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Some of the bigger boats … met some of the crew in the yacht club last night.

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At dinner, Stella assisted oscar by removing fur burrs from his tail. 

06/07/22:  Koronisia

Driving off Lefkada, we agreed it is pretty but not for us in the silly season.  We drove up past Arte not stopping for the Roman Walls etc … seen on a previous visit and headed up to a beach in the middle of a lagoon area near Koronisia.  We have been here before, but it was so stinky sweltering hot, we just needed to be able to lie in the water, even if it were the temperature of tepid bath water.  A popular spot with a German and two French vans, all with awnings and chairs out.   Knowing our awning is ‘difficult’ to retract, we took the moral NO CAMPING stance and just got chairs out!

So another lazy afternoon where we alternately dozed and swam.  Feck even came in for a paddle and let me pour water over him.  What we had not anticipated was the scale of the mossie invasion … we have a system …  bedroom sprayed and door closed.  As we go to bed, we spray the living area and shut the connecting door.  Than when J gets up in the night, as he does, he leaves the door open.  We’d also not anticipated the humidity.  We reckon it as up at over 80%.  Fortunately the 12v fan over the bed doesn’t draw down the leisure batteries unduly, as it was on all night.

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07/07/22:  Ioannina

Heading north to the Pindos Mountains, uncharted territory for us, we stopped of at Ioannina.  This had been our first ever stop in Greece in our motorhome Dec 2017.  This time we parked south of the city and walked along the lake, past the castle.  A peaceful coffee lakeside and then wandered the old town.  We were stopped a number of times with people cooing over 4xK9.  Well, specifically over CO2 and Stella, who are tied as a trio to my waist.  J is behind with Feck, who pulls randomly in every direction, so actually I think I’ve the easier job with 3 of them.

We commented that Ioannina would be a fab place to base yourself for exploring the area or, indeed, just a weekend break.  One lady who stopped to pet COS, said she loved living here … lovely city and easy to get to mountains and coast.

Leaving Ioannina we drove the other side of the lake, where we’ve stayed before and found a large cleaning with views of the city through the trees.  And most importantly, some shade!   Sadly previous folk stopping here had left a carpet of wet wipes, toilet paper, water bottles, fag packets and the odd condom.  Nice.  So with our disposable gloves that we use for dying my hair, we filled a black sack.  The other downside of this parking was the flies.  So another spray of one section of the van and then the other.

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Ali Pashacastle in ioannina.

 

 

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Ioannina old town.

 

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