1418-1424: Southern Scenery Wows

Posted on January 28, 2020 by Clunegapyears

1418: Farewell Dinner

Tuesday 21st January 2019

We returned north to Kissamos to spend the evening with Brian. He had booked the daytime ferry for Wednesday morning which would take him to Glythio on the Peloponnese. We had booked the restaurant in Kissamos that J and I had eaten at twice before, and bespoke a special meal … the daughter / waitress had told us that it was her favourite dish after I’d said how good her mother’s flavours are. She’d given me her mobile number so I could contact her to let them know when we were coming!

Morning CO2 walk up in the hills behind Sougia.

Wild flowers creating a New Year carpet.

Farewell dinner with Brian. Chicken cooked in the pressure cooker for 45 mins. The rice cooked in the chicken broth and run through with sheep’s butter and lemon juice. The rice, particularly, had a lovely delicate flavour, but I don’t think I’ll be rushing out to buy old chicken again.

We played cards … J tried to focus as Zoa straddled his lap. As soon as anyone passed the fridge … Zoa was all attention – he’s quickly leaned that frozen kongs are an evening treat.

1419: Kalives … High Maintenance Woman This Time

Wednesday 22nd January

Quite a few people had picked up colds at the New Year’s Eve dinner. J and I very rarely get colds, due to our fresh air lifestyle. But when I do, it usually goes to my sinuses and I cant shake it off. So I paid a visit to the Kalives doctor … they know us quite well now … wonder if they have our address down as … Camper, Beach Car Park? UK doctors will reluctantly give me 5 days of Amoxycilin (I know the reasons why!), but I always have to go back for more. This doctor gave me 10 days worth, probiotic for my tum and a nasal spray. EUR 20 for the consolation and EUR25 for the meds. Very happy with that. And thank you for asking … the antibiotics are working already.

1420: South to Sfakia

Thursday 23rd January 2019

I drove to Chania and topped up on our Lidl shop, whilst J sorted Jez and CO2 out. Showers and services. After lunch we convoyed to Chora Sfakion … it really is a stunning route over the White Mountains. The snow we went looking for, a week or so back, has largely melted.

We are parked up at the entrance to the harbour, which is mostly full of boats lifted from the water, advertising day trips to Gavdos and Loutro. Coffee with the locals … the toilet was interesting … a portaloo perched on the edge of a cliff with the wind howling round! Amazing stars again, given so little light pollution.

1421: Top Gorge Walk

Friday 21st January

A pretty rubbish night’s sleep … before bed we had moved Jez to face the wind, but in the night the wind moved. A late start! J slept worse than I, so he rested whilst I took CO2 off in the AndyPandyCar. I had a BIG smile on my face the whole trip. Stunning views from the switch backs up and then down to my parking at Livaniana, which had no sign of life other than free roaming goats. A narrow road down, covered in red dirt, that then gave way to a dirt track. Oh well, done these before – just concentrate!

The actual gorge walk is described as strenuous with plenty of climbing over rocks and ladders … not one to do with CO2. Apparently descending from Livaniana would have meant I could have walked the easier part and done a circular walk. Had I been able to find the path! So I followed a path I could find, with CO2 strapped to my waist … far too much goat temptation. I didn’t feel at all hard done by as the the views of the gorge were simply stunning and I got to walk in the warmth of the sun.

On the way home to J and Jez, I did a slight detour to nearby Aradena … I’d read about a steel and wood bridge spanning the gorge. It’s installation was paid for by a wealthy business family whose village would have been cut off else. The village access being a very steep foot / donkey path down the steep gorge and back up the other side … gotta bring James here tomorrow.

Up the road moving west from Chora Sfakion.

The Aradhena Gorge clefting its way across the landscape.

The gorge approaching the coast.

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CO2 and I stopped for an H2O and sun break at the chapel.

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Enough shell cases to smelt into a church brass bell. And BBQ fire pits … CO2 trying to consume all the cooked bones left behind!

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On the way back down … this is our destination in a few days … park at the bottom and walk over to Loutro … accessible only by foot, donkey or boat.

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Aradhena, perched over the gorge.

Distant view of the steel and wood bridge. Built in 1986 by a wealthy international business family, as a lifeline to their village further on. I’m sure it dips in the middle!

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The guide book states ‘Rumble across it in a car and the terrifying crack of the wooden boards against the metal thunders around the gorge below”. It was surely a stomach in mouth moment, to walk it too, as there are cracks between the boards, and the boards move … I will take J back for the experience tomorrow … he will want to inspect the rivets!

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And now you can see how deep the drop below is!!! In the summer, you can bungee jump off!

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1422: Wood and Cave Walk

Saturday 22nd January

I was a bizarrely a tad disappointed that J who is not over keen about heights, was absolutely fine on the bridge. He won’t do the platforms on the Willis or Hancock Towers. I should have remembered that he knows bridges. Not even a single rivet inspection. What I found particularly strange was the lack of max weight sign … was it OK to hold a 15 ton lorry then? Would not have wanted to drive Jez over at around 4.5 tons.

We drove onto Agios Ioannis on the road to no where. At the end of the road, we spontaneously decided to respond to a walking sign heading to Kormopos Cave; Loutro could wait till tomorrow. Although we had no views until near the destination, it was interesting as it was wooded, whereas most of the landscape is low scrub. The height we attained … and it was a looooooong up, and then a looong down, meant that we found both cloud and snow.

We picnicked over looking the cave, not chancing the wet, steep and narrow path down to it.

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No need to check the rivets … J’s a bridge man! I did spot that the last one had popped up, but we were over by then.

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CO2 reluctantly set off over the bridge, thinking this was the way we were headed … only to have to come back again.

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A curious gaze and a very large bell.

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A totally different landscape and we found snow.

Picnic spot overlooking the cave, our target.

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This is Chora Sfakion – you can see Jez’ nose poking out behind the rock. Our home for 6 nights.

1423: An Interesting Journey to Loutro

Sunday 23rd January

Loutro today. It is named as one of Crete’s gems … inaccessible by car. A lot of trippers catch a boat here for the day. A scenic drive to Finikas, brushing the donkey with the wing mirror as we inched past, and then down the super steep and nerving road / track down. A really pretty walk around the head land, with views and passing and archeological site.

We had been ripped off at cafe in Sfakia … tourist prices and had been using a taverna up in Anopoli for the last few days for our morning and afternoon coffees. There was a restaurant open in Sfakia, but TripAdvisor had mixed reviews … so we went back up the hill to Anopoli for supper. Really excellent quality and good prices. On the way back down the head lights picked out lots of boulders … no the goats were all tucked up on the tarmac, so we chicane’d around them.

Unmovable object blocking road.

Tarmac to start, but a good half is dirt track…

… narrow with sheer drops.

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Looking back to Finikas, the hamlet, where we left the car.

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Walking around the headland; the archeological site is behind the church bell.

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Chora Sfakion is just in the distance.

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Loutro.

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We climbed a bit and then decided it was too hot and too steep, so we returned the way we came. Loutro is not inhabited … it is all restaurants and holiday accommodation. They day trippers pile in on boats. The beach is TINY … so where do they all sit? In high season, you must physically be rubbing shoulders with neighbours.

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Loutro picnic spot. All the awnings and verandas removed for the window. We and a chap, painting the mandatory white, were the only living souls.

Lots of large birds of prey near the gorge, and the odd one came for supper!

Amazing quality food at the Anopoli Taverna … J said they were the best meatballs and my pork with peppers was just yummy. We ate the lot!

1424: Chania Jobs

Monday 24th January

The weather forecast was not marvellous, so we decided to drive back across the mountains to Chania … 3 full loads of laundry, e juice for J, a new phone screen protector and woolly tights for me. On the way back down south, we stopped off at Icarus restaurant in Kalives … another yummy plateful and a good chat with owners Michelle and Micahlis. I’ve just got on the scales … 4lbs on this week!

1415-1417: Special in Sougia

Posted on January 20, 2020 by Clunegapyears

1415: Headed South to Sougia

Saturday 18th January 2020

Coffee at Aris’ – as usual….. then driving to Sougia- east and south…..I found that my new hearing aids played my phone music – and the SatNav – the wonders of modern technology!

Sougia is a small village with basically a road north … to move east, we have to almost hit the north coast. It is mostly shut, bar a cafe and a souvlaki grill are open. However, German Camper Micheal is here (met at Elafonisi and Paleochora) and another solo German lady, Freya, … Interesting character, she told me she is a dancer, as I fixated on the dangling jewel stapled in the middle of her forehead. So it is quiet, beautiful and pretty isolated.

We’d driven through fog and rain to sunshine in Sougia … but the hills are still shrouded in clouds.

The small harbour wearing a rainbow.

So different to the north, the mountains fall into the sea.

1416: Lissos Gorge Walk

Sunday 19th January

Coffee in a local Sougia bar – and off to the Lissos Gorge – fantastic rock colours and formations – but so many goats that our Corriegoatherd was on the lead mostly. Our picnic stop was a sun trap overlooking the Ancient site of Lissos. Having eaten and sunbathed out of the wind, lethargy stole over us … we resisted (easily) the temptation to take the steep ascent and descent to the site.

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Just make out the remnants of snow.

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Camouflage dog!

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No, Corrie, you are NOT a goat … but there were a lot, so she had to spend much of the walk on the lead.

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Picnic stop looking down onto Lissos, ancient site. Out of the wind and lovely and warm.

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Curious goats came to torment CO2.

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The Souvlakerie for supper … a local spatiality to start, super crisp thin crepes, filled with fennel tops and spinach. Lovely.

1417: Mountain View Walk

Monday 20th January

An easier walk this morning – with a biting wind in places. We wanted to find a cave but the final path section was overgrown – return to the village where K discovered the local cafe was open. 2 coffees ordered – our hottest, Maria spoke excellent English – apologised that she had no cakes… then she appeared with salted peanuts – and Raki – at lunchtime!!!… As we were about to leave she produced pastries she had just cooked – spinach and cheese – our favourites…. and more Raki! What another amazing Cretan experience! We left wondering if we might come back to eat there. K had spotted 2 elderly ladies in the village – so we had seen 4 of the 12 inhabitants!

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You just know its going to be a good day when there’s rainbow with you.

On top the world! High Mountains and deep gorges, typical of this region.

Looking down to the gorge where Sougia is.

And a full rainbow on the return!

A long history of being destroyed. The Venetians raised it in 1527 as the leader of resistance came from here. They destroyed it twice more. Then the Turks in 1821. In 1943, the Germans slaughtered the inhabitants of here and 2 other nearby villages. This is an all too fairly common story.

Memorial.

There were 3 different WW2 memorials in the village, but this one seemed to list the names of those by local village that had been sent to an Austrian concentration camp.

I followed the river from our parking up stream for a way … Note to self, don’t park next to a river when heavy rain forecast!

Back on the beach later., and a talk with Freya. Not a chat about the oft heard, where have you been … going to ….. but a about the journey through life.

1408-1414: Wonderful Walks and Minor Medical Matters

Posted on January 19, 2020 by Clunegapyears

Saturday 11th – Friday 17th January 2020

Still based in Kalyves, essentially riding out a spot of some bad weather and sorting out some medical issues.

Walks

One walk took us from a new-to-us hill village – Kalamitsi Alexandrou and out through olive and orange groves, with lovely views of the White Mountains. The destination was the Holy Monastery of Agios Georgios at Karydi.

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The monastery on the horizon.

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The entrance … EUR2, wasn’t sure where to leave the money so just left in inside.

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All this complex for just one resident monk. And I heard his deep vibrating snores echo around. He appeared later and got the chap who had been sat on the terrace to drive him somewhere.

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The 12 arch oil factory 1860 within the monastery complex. Large scale olive production started in 1829 and provided a many local families with employment.

Our picnic on the terrace outside … notice the lady with her feet up … she’d been washing up whilst the monk slept … division of the sexes here.

A coffee back at the village cafe and Corrie made herself at home.

Lars, our Swedish resident friend led us on another walk, part of which we’d done before … we parked up behind Almyrida and walked around Douliana and Tsivaras … mostly mixed leaf woods, more oranges and olivestwo cave churches.

Lars assured us that there are no poisonous snakes in Crete. J explained how St Patrick had banished all snakes from Ireland.

Some of our route was old Minoan roads … these huge and smooth slabs have stood the test of time.

Inside one fo the cave churches. We’ve been astounded at the honesty and trust here in Crete. One of the churches had money left on a shelf …

Beach Cleaning

Armed with gloves and plastic bags, we did our bit … a lot of plastic gets washed up after storms. This was a Greek and Ex-pat combined exercise.

CO2 are soooo starved, that they have to wear muzzles at Kalives … people dump cooked bones and there has been some talk of poison being put down. So much as CO2 both attempt to remove the muzzles, they stay on for their own good. The orange ‘kerchief is part of Brian’s over sized duvet that was cut down … should get a pic of all 2 dogs sporting their orange (sorry, Brian, TANGERINE) fashion wear!

The official photo of most of the litter pickers … I am there … about a third in from the left, at the back, between two incredibly tall men.

Medical Matters for the High Maintenance Man!

Let’s talk hearing loss … J had a test about 18 months ago and was told he was borderline for hearing aids. However, I now often have to repeat myself 3 times … and usually what I say, ain’t worth repeating even once. The handsome Dr Manos in Kalives, booked a hearing test in Chania. Moderate loss in both ears at high frequency … no wonder he can’t hear me!! We went straight around the corner to a hearing aid specialist. The lovely Vera had stuck green wax in his ears to get the shape last week and we went on Monday to collect the hearing aids. Time is NOT money in Crete. We were there over and hour and a half, checking the programme and no echo … I had to ring James from the street with passing cars for a test. We left with the hearing aids, having left no deposit, or print of our credit card … all Vera had was a phone number! Take them away and come back in a few days to see how you get on. Her English is better than our Greek but not good, so people from surrounding shops were drafted in for translations.

We returned on Thursday and another hour to go through warranty and make some adjustments. Oh, and to finally pay! James actually hearing what I say now…. RESULT. And his phone is blue toothed so he can select programmes, volume and …. play his music through them … even phone calls go straight to them (sadly I only now hear half the conversation!!!).

A wobbly tooth was inspected by Gorgeous George … locals name for him, although I concur. It will fall out on its own … a conversation about implants. I went to pay … he refused to take any money!

Taken on Trust

As well as the trust with us walking out with the hearing aids, having not left any means for the shop to trace us should we have absconded, I had a similar experience. My phone battery was ‘unhealthy’, so I took it into a large shop in Chania and left it with them for a couple of hours. Picked it up and got out some money … no, you take this paper and pay up stairs. I had the phone in one hand and the paper in the other, passed the door to the street … I could so easily have walked out. You’ll be pleased to know I am one of those folk who tells restaurants if they’ve forgotten to add an item to the bill, so I did pay … all of EUR28.

An earring had a stone come loose … took it into the key cutting / cobbler place next to our morning coffee cafe to be glued … no charge …

1406-1408: Sun and Snow in the Hills

Posted on January 10, 2020 by Clunegapyears

1406: Overcast Walk

Thursday 9th January

Coffee at Arti’s – a regular morning tradition…..

A walk to Macheri village and surroundings – with Brian and Zoa. Early in the walk, Oscar approached a chained dog – and promptly got attacked! He was underneath the other dog and trying to escape – we think the owner believed Oscar was the aggressor – but our O hasn’t an angry bone in his body… no damage done. And that should teach him to stay away from chained dogs protecting their homes.

On with lovely walk – later Brian treated us to his haute cuisine – noshtimo!

Small rock church … nothing unusual there, but the Laura Ashley chandelier is unusual!

This car has been up cycled!

Macheri village, from the start of the walk.

Macheri new amphitheatre with lovely views … where J recited ‘The lake Isle of Inisfree’, one of my faves. The amphitheatre would seat the population of the village several times over.

An old olive press just in a barn along one of the lanes.

Red rocks and J coming out of Macheri.

1407: Snow Frolics

Friday 10th January

Katherine’s early doggie walk photo is amazing!

Then off in our PantyCraftyCar – to the snow – it took a while. We kept driving and driving, seeing the snow piled up on the sides of the roads. Eventually we found sone, almost over the other side of Crete, at Imbros. We’ve walked down the gorge but this time we walked up the mountain. The results were fantastic – frolics in the snow – and that was just Oscar and Corrie! Well worth the trip.

Then – another recommended family restaurant in Stylos – they lit their fire especially for us. K had delicious liver – and I noshed chicken meatballs – a first! Back to base – Kalyves – and chilling….. literally … when the sun goes down, it gets very cool. We are burins gas at about a bottle every 6/7 days, but we don’t do cold, so no stinting ~ switching on the heating.

I’ve taken a few pix of Kalives from the harbour, but this has got to be one of the best. And that snow is where we are headed today.

I was worried the last 2 days of rain would have washed away all the snow … it was not looking promising.

But we found some at Imbros … at least a foot deep.

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Initially Corrie jumped from rock to rock to avoid getting her paws in the snow.

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Mincing.

Playtime.

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And we found another lovely restaurant, 3 Cooks in Stylos; another recommendation. And they lit the fire for us!

1397-1505: A New Decade and Acts of Kindness

Posted on January 8, 2020 by Clunegapyears

Not wanting to sound soppy …. Both James and I are struck with how kind and helpful people are generally, but this last week has particularly humbled us.

1397: New Year’s Eve Festivities

Tuesday 31st December 2019

Walked on Sandy beach and then coffee and pastries. We left the street parking outside what may have been a council building; lots of folk going in and out, but sideways places at us – so with thanks to Paleochora…..

In convoy back to Kalives to load with water and then up to friend of a friend parking (again!). Act of Kindness No. 1: parking for us arranged by Julia. Self showered and off to Eleanore’s eatery at Drapanos. Act of Kindness No. 2: Thank you to June, Karl and Lars for inviting us. Conversation flowed, and the wine flowed faster! A little Greek dancing to the live band, but not much room for a dance floor as the place was rammed with diners. A testament to how relaxed andchilled the Greeks are … the kitchen couldn’t cope with the numbers … 90 covers for a small family restaurant, and hot food was still coming out at 1.00a.m. Important to the Greeks is that it is freshly cooked. A lot of tourists complain that starters arrive often with the main course and that it is not piping hot. It comes out of the kitchen when it is ready and most plates are for sharing.

We left at 2:00 am – the party was still in full swing – including 10 police officers and wives – drink driving??? “Chonia palla” to all – Happy New Year (sort of) – in Greek!!!

The sun out again for our walk on Sandy Beach …

… there was a cold wind so no-one was taking advantage of this being the nudist area.

At Eleanore’s … actually trying to capture the family with fine identical moustaches behind us!

1398: Enforced Easy Day

Wednesday 1st January 2020

Slow start and slow day. Can’s think why!!! Back down the hill to Kalives.

Dogs just got walked along the beach … more snow on them there hills.

1399: Doctor and Soup Making

Thursday 2nd January

Weather was really grim. Visited the good doctor to arrange hearing test for moi – pardon? Pm – coffee / wine with Ann and K making batch soup amounted to our sole activity! A continuing good start to 2020 – shall K ask me to marry her – again – leap year – I would leap at the answer…

1400: Chania Activity

Friday 3rd January

After two days of inertia and lack of activity. A trip to Chania for laundry and late lunch at an amazing restaurant – “Tamam” – which in Arabic means ‘excellent’ – how apposite?

N.B. I know laundry is usually undertaken in the twin tub, but the inclemency of the weather and not wishing to turn Jez into a 5 day long Chinese steam laundry, meant a paid for self service facility was required.

K met Ann for coffee and received post that had arrived at Ann’s Act of Kindness No. 3: this is the second time Ann has acted as post receiver for us … Valarian for Oscar. Not vallium … but similar!! The hope is that it will calm his anxiety and over excitement … fingers crossed.

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Tamam Restaurant, recommence by about 3 people. In old town Chania, so prices a little higher but excellent quality. A plate of mixed starters, then from the left … J’s veal, pork and cheese pie, Brian’s beef and aubergine puree, and K’s seabass with fennel sauce. All really yummy.

1401: A Lars Led Walk

Saturday 4th January

Blazing sunshine and warm – what a change…….Lars was tour guide for our river walk from Kalyves – as Brian was unwell, we took Zoa – who seemed to adopt me … Longest walk (11km) I have done for a year? Wonderful views of the snowy hills and then a glimpse of the sea. Through lots of orange groves … a man slowed his car and thrust his arm out of the window proffering a bag of oranges. We do like the Greeks. Not only did Lars guide the walk, he had baked a Swedish apple pie which we had with coffee. And we left with a chunky slab, a Swedish cheesecake and some lingonberry jam. Act of Kindness No. 4: Lars!

Act of Kindness No. 5: One of our recent friends from New Years Eve (Karl) arrived with a smokeless Bbq – he and K had been discussing kitchen gadgets at New Year – how kind is that – amazing! We just need some fuel and decent weather to test it!

The snow is definitely a little heavier, but so pretty with the sun on it.

A real contrast with the snow and the shirt sleeves only temperature amongst the olive groves.

Oscar and Zoa had a few stand offs and stick pinching moments … very entertaining!

Can’t wait to give this a go … batteries power an underneath fan so it is ready to cook in 5-10 mins and uses much less charcoal.

1402-1404: Wet and Windy

Sunday 5th January

Another day for battening down the hatches….supper with Lars at Icarus…. the menu was a bit limited and white wine ran out so red was a good substitute! Michelle showed a mug she bought Michaelis – the inscription was “I can’t keep calm … I’m a Greek man!”

As the wind speeds increased, we moved Jez – We’re getting good at this – “CluneVanRemovals”???

Monday 6th January

K had developed a cold – so a bit of a duvet day for her – poor lamb – not even a ‘girlyflu’… I manfully stepped up the plate and plated (nice pun, J) a sort of meal……’great balls of fire’ – well, great balls of meat with a sweet potato and a few leaves of cabbage. I’m now awaiting the call from ‘DastardlyChef’…….. Act of Kindness No. 6: Brian kept us topped up with coffees and chocolate!

Tuesday 7th January

“Revicanusenlome” (anagram) moved Jez back to our beach wild camping place. K and Brian had a wet and windy walk with dogs around the head at Plaka. Supper with Brian … K’s take on a Greek classic … pork with celery.

Juicing session with the oranges … Act of Kindness No. 7: Lars had hunted us out to deliver them.

Massive swell and crashing waves off Plaka.

1405: What was that? Pardon!

Wednesday 8th January

Early start – 0700hrs – blimey! Blood test results for moi – all positive…..off to Chania – pronounced “hhanya”! Brian came – we laundrified at ‘Easywash’ – coffee’d across the road where I was persuaded to eat most of our cakes – no great problem – Cretan cakes are scrummy.

Then – to a hearing specialist – for my ‘earring test. The ‘eerie’ result was what we expected – 2 massive ear trumpets to stick in my channels! Who remembers ‘HMV’ – ‘His Masters Voice’ – visualise the poor dog…. well, perhaps a little smaller. We won’t mention the Euroresult…….

Splendid lunch again at Tamam – noshtimmo…. Back next Monday for fitting of trumpets and more Tamam foodies – life is a breeze – if you can ‘ear it. Oh dear, this ‘ere lobe theme may run and run…..