About Clunegapyears

Travelling around Europe with James in our motorhome

1323-1329: Same Aged P’s, Different Location

Posted on October 27, 2019 by Clunegapyears

1323: Travelling South Via Aryiroupoli

Saturday 19th October 2019

We used the beach shower to fill with water as Mother did her daily fast morning walk. She’s done more exercise than James or I! We were 10 mins from setting off when a chap from the hotel behind asked us if we could move Jez … the new guests had complained about the van blocking their sea view and we were much higher than cars would be. Can’t resent this, as they are probably on a week’s precious holiday and had paid for a sea view … not the not so clean rear end of a grey van!

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This is the view we were blocking the hotel guests from!

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The Aged P’s flat was behind and to the left of Rentacar.

I drove the hire car with the Aged P’s and J followed in the van. Don’t usually like driving in convoy, but the roads here are pretty empty and the larger ones have an extra half lane so the slow vehicles can allow others to overtake … which they do despite bends and double lines in the middle of the road. We’d planned to picnic lunch as Aryiroupoli, but got there earlier than expected and as we parked up Jez, a restaurant owner was concerned that we would park where his customers might like the shortest walk to a meal at his establishment. He must have been expecting coach loads judging by the amount of meat barbecuing. No, just staying for a few hours and (as and appeasement), was he serving coffee? There are two parts to Aryiroupoli, predictably, Lower and Upper! The Lower has Springs, water flowing trough loads of channels in the restaurants and further down. The Upper consists of a small village centre with a few shops and some Roman mosaics. Good olive oil products shop. We didn’t even stay a couple of hours in the end, as the rain came down … so we set off again for our south coast destination.

Home for the next 6 nights was a very small hamlet with a few restaurants with rooms and a small, but well stocked shop. The Aged P’s were staying in a room at the latter. It is a bit off the normal tourist trail (good!), being known to locals and overseas regulars. Friends of ours have been coming here since 1980; one of the restaurants lets them empty their black waste in his toilet and another washes sheets and towels for them. Food in the restaurants was super tasty and inexpensive. A really restful place. However, we did day trips out!

Apparently this was ‘erected’ as a German kept getting his tackle out!

Our beach.

The next beach along. Lots of cairns.

1324: Prevelli Monasteries

Sunday 20th October

There are two monasteries. The old Lower one had been destroyed a number of times and the Monks finally moved into the new one about 50 years ago as the upkeep was difficult. There are now only 2 monks in the Upper Monastery. The guide at the Lower Monastery explained that there are too many tourists and not enough meditation time at this location, so monks tend to go elsewhere.

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The Lower Monastery.

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A short drive to the Upper Monastery … a large car park with an H painted on the tarmac for helicopters. A number of coaches at this one. The buildings were not remarkable, but the history is. During the wars of independence again the Turks, some of the Monks actually took up arms and there are pictures of gun toting monks in the old monastery museum. Although they did not fight in WW2, they were active in aiding the Allies. After the Battle of Crete was lost, thousands of Allies headed south through the gorges. Preveli hid a lot of them and then assisted them onto a submarine. They first effort was so successful, a second was attempted, but by this time the Germans were wise to it. They raided and ransacked the monastery. A number of the Monks were arrested. Intervention by one of the Bishops had them released, but the head Monk had to escape to N Africa, sadly only dying a few days before the end of the war. The monastery continued to support and feed soldiers and the residence.

The main relic of the Monastery was being held by a Monk in the church and kissed by the coach passengers … a Cross. The story about this cross is fascinating. It had been captured by the Turks at the end of the C18 and sold to Genoese sailors, who later happened to be passing by. Their boat stalled, if boats can stall? It wouldn’t move, so the superstitious sailors returned the cross to the monastery. Then the Germans tried to fly it to Berlin, but the plane had a fault and would not take off. They changed plane and this one also refused to budge … so the cross was once more returned to the monks.

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The new Monastery church housing the True Cross.

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Many of the evacuated soldiers were from New Zealand and Australia and have donated / paid for monuments expressing their thanks.

Picnic view … this south coast is stunning with mountains and gorges running right down to the sea.

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The monument to the monks and the Allies.

Coffee and ice cream back on the deck at the Aged P’s accommodation.

1325: Frangokastello and Up

Monday 21st October

Frangokastello is a great coffee / lunch stop. Good beaches if that’s your thing. The castle 1371 is fairly impressive, built to protect the Venetian occupiers from invaders and pirates, but now just a shell. Being badly restored at the moment … a few workmen slapping on non matching mortar and therefore not open to visitors.

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After coffee we headed up a gorge to Kallikratis. The guide book described the road as ‘the steepest, most winding and spectacular in Crete’. So it had to be done. A friend told me that she remembered it being built and had driven it before it was widened … coming down the car bonnet was over the edge of the drop. Going up was much easier, aided by the fact we didn’t meet any other traffic until the top, and we came back a different route.

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Kallikratis Gorge.

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Picnic stop.

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Local inhabitants tormenting CO2. How do they get up here?

1326: Plakias

Tuesday 22nd October

Plakias is another holiday destination, with a good number of restaurants and bars. However, all the buildings are low rise so it has not been spoilt.

Don’t know how or why this van had made it into the water.

We had ice creams, but Mum had a Pinicolda! She could taste the copious alcohol in it … yummy … for her. No taster sips for us, as we are still battling through Sober for October.

1327: Chora Sfakion and Imbros Gorge

Wednesday 23rd October

Chora Skaflion is the capital of the region, but is relatively small. Growth has been restricted due to the surrounding mountains. Busy with a coach park and a nearly full paid for car parking … EUR3 per day. We arrived, coffeed, walked around and then sat on admiring the small port for and ice cream. Not one to break a trend, Mum had another booze laden cocktail.

The waterfront with wall to wall restaurants. The fresh fish on display looked good … but we have a picnic.

Whilst we ate ice cream, we watch this trip boat fill up. Surely it is a bit top heavy and the wind was blowing!

We drove up the main road from Chania to Chora Sfakion, which goes along the Imbros Gorge. This is the second most visited gorge and even at this time of year there were 4 coaches parked up at the bottom waiting for their passengers to walk down. We established that a car (taxi) to drive to the top of the gorge is EUR25 … I may do this when James flies to Dublin in December. As we climbed, the mists came in and views diminished. It was also much chillier, so we almost descended the whole way before we picnicked.

Did I mention the wind … we had to hold everything down, even the food.

Goat Gate: Oscar does like a stick and brought this one home after a walk. He left it in his bed, where Corrie found it. She has a habit to shred sticks, so I grabbed it to chuck it out … only to discover it was part of a goat’s leg, with hoof attached. YUK! But what happened to the rest of the goat?

1328: Fish Fest

Thursday 24th October

Our last full day with the Aged P’s :(. We had a coffee on the deck at their accommodation and then we went to the taverna on the neighbouring beach. Ordered a few meze to start and then ordered some fresh fish. We’ve worked out that to make the meal last, order the courses as you want them. The two large fish, bream and sea bass, were just beautifully cooked … double yummy. The Aged P’s managed to NOT hold back on the booze front … whilst we are STILL dry for Go Sober for October.

1329: North and South

Friday 25th October

A drive up to Chania Airport for the Aged P’s to catch their flight home. Gonna miss them lots. People seem to think that having one’s parents around for 11 nights would be a chore, but they are such good company. More of a chore for them, I suspect!

We headed back south through the White Mountains, but a bit further along the coast east … to Kokkinos Pirgos. We walked along the beach to the restaurant next to the small harbour … but flavourless and expensive off a huge tourist menu. Worst meal we’ve had so far. Shame as fab location.

1316-1322: Charging Around Chania

Posted on October 23, 2019 by Clunegapyears

1316: Bali? Cretian Style.

Saturday 12th October 2019

An early doors shower on board followed by an early disembarkation. We were heading west along the north coast, and looked for somewhere to get our heads down. Neither of us had slept well in our cabin … we seemed to be above the engines and felt all the vibrations! Steady hum, Vibrate and rattle and repeat! Oh and I shared my bed with two furry and wriggly bodies … you’re not allowed on the furniture in the van, my dears! Our first identified spot was a car park, but the pukka gypsies (not sure of the distinction, we are van dwellers but not gypsies!) had moved in, so we kept going to Bali. This Bali had a lot in common with the island Bali … probably, having never been there!. Beaches, cafes and restaurants. We rested, walked what there was to see, had coffees and ice creams, a light lunch and stayed that night too. The only incident was early evening when some ‘idiots’ started throwing glass bottles around ing the car park. Not at us, but I was out with the dust pan and brush concerned for tyres and paws … if I’d spoken Greek, I’d have kindly given them a bit of what I thought of them and offered them the brush to clear up!

Bali tree, crying out for pots of flowers on its trunk.

1317: Kalyves

Sunday 13th October

With beach shower water to enable a fill up, we cleaned the inside of the van … we aim to do this every Sunday, but somehow life can get in the way. Then we drove into Almyrida, to check where the Aged P’s apartment was and assess the parking for Jez. A move just up to the next village, Kalyves, where we spent the night in a large car park. Another beach resort, with coffee shops etc. But behind the beach area, there was more of the original town.

Coffee overlooking the beach.

The small harbour.

1318: Aged P’s Arrive Almyrida

Monday 14th October

Being opposite a plumbed in public toilet, we set the alarm for 0600 hours for operation ‘Black Waste Empyting”, but a certain person was awake and up at 0400 hours, so the military manoevre was brought forward. The advance party emptied and the rear cleaned and sprayed air freshener! Back to bed!

We picked up the hire car and shopped. James then took Jez off to our parking and I went to collect the Aged P’s. They were in a small apartment, just set back from the beach in Almyrida, and we parked along bit in the car parking area. Early the next morning we were able to move to just outside their apartment … result. Another result, was that their apartment had two balconies, one with 4 chairs and the other with a clothes horse … we made good use of both. Oh and an amazing power shower, which also got put to good use, especially as Mum was kind enough (coerced) into dying my hair!

Supper was a restaurant right on the water’s edge watching the sun go down behind the cliffs and leaving a soft glow.

Didn’t fancy eating a meal here … wonder if the chef has an unpleasant habit?

1319: Charming Chania

Tuesday 15th October

The Aged P’s had visited Chania well over 20 years ago with my sister Clare and hubby Chris, and we’d been for a day wander 18 months ago with Maddy. All of us remembered liking the town and the revisit, as so often is the case, did not disappoint. Our only irritation was with the crowds of Americans off a cruise ship that thronged the walk along the harbour front. On talking to one set, we had had it lucky … the boat’s capacity was 2,500, but only 2,100 were on board … there could have been even more of them, or even worse, 2 ships in!

We coffee on arrival, wandered along the front, accelerated through the busy bit, and up through the back streets, where we had lunch.

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1320: A Mystery Tour of WW2, Caves, a Cove and an Olive Tree

Wednesday 16th October

Picnic, table and chairs all loaded … we headed west. Along the coast was pretty uninspiring … miles of ribbon beach hotel and tavernas. Pleased not be staying here.

First stop was Plantanias where German Tunnels had been dug out by forced local labour to store ammunition. The tunnels supplied the hillside defensive battlements. The museum is run by volunteers and is funded by donations. A film with sub titles explained how the local children used to play in the cool tunnels when it was 40C outside , pinching candles form the church. The wiring for the lighting had been pinched by the locals and used to tie up fences etc. The locals felt it was important to remember and tell the story. It is almost possible to feel blasé about war atrocities when you visit a lot of sites, but Crete suffered hugely during WW2. And it is obviously still very raw to many of them.

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One of the entrances to the tunnels.

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An olive tree outside the main entrance … the story goes that one of the German paratroopers had been nursed by local women, but died and was buried here. When the Germans wanted to start the tunnelling here, scared of reprisals, the priest persuaded them to dig a little way off.

Stop number 2 was the German war cemetery in Maleme. The airfield here saw a lot of the initial fighting of the Battle of Crete May 20 1941. The Allies lost it early on and with lines of communication lost west-east, they pretty much gave up. Piss poor communication and shockingly poor management at the command levels basically lost Crete to the Germans. Resonance with our politicians today? And bear in mind the Allies had double the numbers of the attacking Germans and the goodwill and military of the indigenous population. So many Germans were shot out of the air, that they abandoned their plan of conquering Britain with a similar air invasion.

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Hill 107 where 4,500 are remembered here. Ironically, the cemetery’s care takers were for years the author of “The Cretan Runner” and Manoli Pateraki, who played a leading role in the capture of General Kriepe … for which there were also horrendous German reprisals.

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We drove part way up the Rodhopou peninsular, through a few villages and then east at Afrata, down a gorge and onto a small cove. Not suitable for a motorhome. Having the use a car does have its benefits.

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A cafe and a few sun bathers, but a super picnic spot.

On the return journey we had two stops.

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The first was St John the Hermitage’s Cave, although I’m pretty sure he had several caves as we’ve come across at least one before! It was quite a complex and obviously used for ceremonies.

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Just outside was a small cemetery, and Google translate was able to tell us that this was for heroes.

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The last stop was an ice cream stop! Although the main reason to come here was this olive tree in Ano Vouves. This tree is one of the oldest olive trees in existence and is believed to be 3000 or 4000 years old, depending on which source of information you use. Nice to think it may have been around during the Minoan age. It’s trunk was seriously gnarled and hollow – it could have concealed several people. During the last Athenian Olympics 2004, a branch was transported to Athens where victory wreaths were made for the winners of first and last events.

1321: Not Finding the Rhythm in Rethymno

Thursday 17th October

Having really liked Chania, we were expecting to like Rethymno. Parked up, had a rip off coffee. Chatted briefly to a couple who James had chatted to when they admired CO2 in Chania, to be told that the beach football championship was going later that day. Perhaps, that was what had drown the crowds? Or was to the over narrow shops, offering all the same silver jewellery or tourist tat? We’d planned to stop for lunch, decided to see the much made of Rimondi Fountain, and then to skiddadle out of there! We just tipped over into the second hour on the car park!

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Similar to Chania harbour, with its harbour front restaurants and Venetian light house, but MUCH smaller.

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Maps.Me – blame the map rather than the navigator!, led us to this Fountain, but it wasnt the right one! So we’ve not seen the Rimondi Fountain and now won’t, as we won’t be going back!

A lot of graffiti, but this was quite artistic.

This graffiti not artistic. We were more than happy to oblige.

Dog walking earlier that morning I’d chatted to a Brit, local resident for 10 years. He was digging a boat out of the sand by the harbour. A friend was very poorly and he was helping him sell his boat and car and re-home his two large dogs! Er, no, we really don’t want any more dogs! But he’d told me about a really good restaurant in a nearby hill village. And so this was where we went for lunch. It really was good and more typical of Cretan low prices. Such good value.

1322: Theriso Gorge

Friday 18th October

A super drive as the road follows the river bed up to Theriso. Lots of z bends and great rocks. Coffee on the way up … unusually dogs were not allowed in the restaurant and the outside tables had all been cleared. But they let us in the side door and we watched the green patio canopy being pruned right back. Mum and I wandered over to the adjacent cheese shop … just one choice of cheese, but we got to sample before buying. Still soapy, not a big fan of Greek cheeses, but at least it had some flavour. A sheep cheese … so many goats around, but what is their milk they used for?

At the village, the Museum of National Resistance 1941-45 seemed to be shut, but as we walked away, a lady appeared from a neighbouring house with the keys. At EUR1 each, it was really good value. Boards in English explained the Battle of Crete and there was hundreds of photos of locals who had fought in the resistance. The village is also very proud of their connection with Venizelos’, it is the hometown of his mother. Venizelos fought in the wars of independence against the Turks, was instrumental in self declared incorporation of Crete with Greece, and then became premier of Greece in 1910 (and several times after), thereby assisting official incorporation of Crete with Greece by 1913.

Supper back at the beach front Cosanita restaurant for our last night in Almyrida … Fish Med Veg … salmon on roasted mediterranean veg … yummy.

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We drove further up the mountain until we found a flattish spot for our picnic … great mountains.

1309-1315: Plopping Back In The Peloponnese

Posted on October 13, 2019 by Clunegapyears

1308-1309: Delighted to be back in the Plops

Friday 4th cont. – Saturday 5th October 2019

We did not disembark until nearly 6.00 pm on Friday and getting too late to drive far. We only drove 20 mins (after a slight detour and poor navigation – K) to get fuel to N of Patras. Driving through Patras we were reminded about the double, and occasional triple, parking, Service stations where the attendant fills up for you as standard. Some remembered shop brands. All feeling warmly comfortable.

I’d had a slow cooker chicken and Remoska braised fennel on the go on board, using that ‘free’ electricity, so we ate with Jenni and David.

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Camping on Board – view from our hab door. The route hugs the Italian, then Albanian coasts, past Corfu, docking at Igoumenitsa, before wending its way between mainland Greece and islands. Under cover was good, as it did rain in the night.

A stoney beach, but great views across to the Rio Antirrio bridge; this , a ferry and across the Corinth canal are the two connection points for the Peloponnese and the mainland.

On Saturday we had a leisurely start and then went wine sniffing! I know, most people go wine tasting, but we are on Go Sober for October.

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Achaia Clauss winery, we enjoyed the tour even though we’d done it before. Same tour guide. The winery is the second oldest business in Greece, A bank, this winery and then a chocolate manufacturer! Some very old valuable carved barrels. Originally they were made from Russian wood, now wood comes from France. Jenni and I were caught by a worker with our heads through the window of the more modern production rooms, inhaling the fumes. James and I couldn’t sample now but we bought a case of Mavro Daphne, a 15% fortified wine that is good with Christmas pudding (sister Clare recognised it as a recommendation by Jilly Goolden) and for cooking … and of course, drinking … but next month!!

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Achaia Clauss.

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And a baby resident bat.

Jenni and David headed east and we went south to Elea/Elia – so many Greek spellings before you even start on the Greek alphabet.

1310: El-aundry

Sunday 6th October

We had stayed at Elea before and knew of a tap, that is not on the map, so not too busy around there. We hogged the tap and once I finally got out of bed … (that 10cm memory foam topper is truly comfy!), we got down to jobs. A blind fix, laundry, a bit of admin and an Oscar prune … he struggles with the heat.

And some dog walks.

Before … shaggy and hot …

… cool, slim Jim

Our peace was disturbed by a trials bike churning up the sand dunes for a little while, but it returned with a lovely sunset.

1311: Gotta Gia-lova Lagoon

Monday 7th October

We stayed at another favourite site … Gialova Lagoon. A stunning location. Great walk up to the castle and sitting on the beach with my knitting until the rain started.

The Maps.Me image shows the lagoon, horseshoe bay and protected harbour.

1312-13: Nothing Naf in Nafplio

Tuesday 8th – Wednesday 9th October

We headed across to Nafplio – another re-visit. Jenni and David met up with us there and cooked us supper. The second night we ate out … We’d not planned to stay two nights, but a smart town to wander around, good company and sunshine … and inertia set in. And my first sloooow run in months!

A grey day when we arrived, but the sun came out in force on day 2. This cruise ship behind us kept its engines running till it thankfully buggered off about 10.00 p.m.

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The fort island and dredging.

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4th attempt by the waiter to take a shot of us without camera shake … we’ve come across this before where younger than us don’t know how to use a camera … as against a phone! Please note J is on 0% beer and I’m on water!

1314: A Non-acquisition in Acorinth

Thursday 10th October

We headed off to Corinth, leaving Jenni and David with more inertia in Nafplio. Destination – the vet that did Corrie’s blood tests, neutering and Pet Passport etc when we found her up the hill at Acorinth Feb 2018. Oscar was due a Kenel Cough vaccination. Our normal vet was operating – through an open doorway, but waved. The young vet remembered us and even Corrie’s name! Vaccination done, general health inspection and a new passport for O, as we’ve run out of vaccination pages … total bill EUR35. Later that evening, I realised that it seems Corrie had never had a KC and Oscar was due a Lepto and the triple 3 yearly vaccinations. Quick email to our Farnham vet to have this confirmed.

We headed up to Acorinth, the ancient fortress to over night, which is exactly where we found Corrie. She seemed to not have any recollection and no-one came banging on our door claiming we’d stolen their dog! However, we did not expect to find one of her relatives up there all alone. A tiny pup, with some physical similarities to our Corrie. Too skinny and wet from the recent downpour. Other visitors to the site were feeding and making a big fuss of her. CO2, surprisingly seemed to not be very interested in her … James kept making puppy dog eyes at me. My Mum suggested James go and put his head in a bucket of water! 2 dogs in a van is ENOUGH! On top of which, a hard Brexit would make getting all the jabs, tests and paperwork done impossible, especially given her young age. James saw her the next morning, fortunately I didn’t, so I was not put in the position of making the decision to leave her behind.

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1315: Busy Busy Busy

Friday 11th October

An ancient site, vet, motorhome repair, lunch and a ferry. Surely that’s far too much activity for folk that are supposed to be oozing their way around?

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So we actually made it inside the the fortress this time.

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Looking back down to the parking.

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After a bit of a climb up part of the fortress (not much standing other than walls, but you really get a sense of the size of the place) and coffee, we headed back down to Corinth to the vet. Both had their jabs and the vet asked how old Oscar was. Nearly 6 … “OK we check his prostate”. So poor lamb had a finger up his bum and when the vet squeezed, I had to watch Oscar’s face for any signs of pain. Relieved I didn’t have to do this for James’ prostate examinations! EUR40 for all the injections – so much cheaper than home. The vet called us ‘nice people’ … I think he really meant soft! We told him we had been tempted to bring him another stray … he was pleased we hadn’t for our sakes, I think, and said about how many un-homed dogs there are.

Our kitchen tap had sprung a leak along the arm and was still leaking despite the application of glue. Given how long we plan to be away this trip, we headed off to the motorhome repair place who fitted the rear air suspension early April 2018. The mechanic found an Adria tap at EUR110, before labour. We gasped and would have put up with the leak, but he found one at EUR55 plus 20 for labour. Still more expensive that we’d expected … but ho hum. It would have been “a lot more money’ had I paid by card and asked for a receipt. I watched the owner fold the notes into his top pocket.

We dropped down to a beach location just past all the oil refineries and petrochemical smells … lunch right by the beach. It would have been a great place to sleep, but I rang Anek ferries. Yes, they could move our crossing forward from tomorrow to tonight. Yay … we’re off to Crete.

J rested and I dog walked and knitted in the sun until it was time to set off. A quick stop at the entrance to the port to swap our paper tickets over and then straight onto the ferry. At reception our cabin was assigned and a pale blue and white stripe waist coated porter took us to our cabin – it was ready despite being 2.5 hours before the ferry was due to leave. No camping on board in Greece … Lin told me the Greek government likes the revenue of additional cabin sales.

Not pooping on the poop deck … crossed legs for Corrie.

CO2 are NOT allowed on the beds or chairs in Jez … but they hopped up pretty pronto. Not sure where I was supposed to sleep! Curled up around them …

The cabin newspaper had 3 pages all about Brexit and a double page spread about BoJo. would have loved to have been able to read it and see what their take on it is … although given the conversations we’ve had with all nationalities, it is not good. This is the first time we’ve been away since the referendum where people are asking us what on earth is going on. As if we have any idea either!

1300-1308: Greece and East – Heading Off

Posted on October 8, 2019 by Clunegapyears

1300-1308: And We’re Off!

Thursday 26th September – Friday 4th October 2019

We finished loading Jez on Wednesday and struck off for the Tunnel for our 0123 hrs crossing. We parked up planning to eat nearby. However … the mackerel I’d bought had not been gutted. Not feeling like tackling the fish, I lobbed it in the bin. Now. I am usually the one that snaffles any left overs for soup. But in my defence, my Lud, I was tired. It was late. I would had to gut them outside – in the rain. And I’d already had to give Corrie a washing up bowl bath as she’d rolled in poop. Lots of it. We ended up in a very nice country pub chatting to locals. Ho hum.

Tunnel all fine with no delays. Perhaps something to do with being the small hours, but straight through. And onto Bergues aire, which we’ve used number of times before. Good for walking CO2.

We followed a route down to Ancona suggested by our friends Lin and Bo, who’ve been coming this way for decades. It was pretty much all free motorway, and straight A roads, other than the Heavy Goods Pass for Switzerland EUR32.50 and then we paid on the Italian motorways … £31. We tried to bring the crossing forward from October the 8th, but the earliest we could be accommodated for camping on board was the 3rd. We had plenty of time to ooze our way down with not very long driving days.

I’ve started plotting our sleep spots with coordinates on PolarSteps/Katherine Clune … download the app and search for it….

By a fishing lake in France, all the locals were very friendly and one in excellent English told me where to walk CO2.

Italy or Switzerland? Actually a small Italian enclave in Switzerland. Only 0.6msq. A mix of administration: vehicles and currency Swiss, but Police Italian. A fantastic spot right on Lake Lugano. The car park was free and had been for a now bankrupt casino … apparently it had been the largest in Europe, but looked more like a power station.

Apperatif in the little town of Camplione.

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We stayed one night at a campertstop with full services in Parma EUR20. A EUR2 per person and per dog all day bus ticket into town. Fortunately I’d been warned that CO2 may have to wear muzzles, and we were allowed on with 2 dogs, although the official line is 1 per bus. A great wander around the town and we even spotted the restaurant we’d eaten in with Maddy about 9 years ago. Unfortunately it was shut on a Monday, or we’d have revisited. Instead we visited a couple of bars … had a good chat with an Aussie couple, who refuse to drive in Europe so travel by train :(. Then bumped into another Aussie couple from the Camper Stop … more wine and supper together. A good evening.

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A rather bemused member of staff looking at me re-enacting my falling asleep on the steps of the Basilica from 9 years ago. Pix duly sent to Maddy.

Not allowed to sleep long… face licking time!

Overnight stop just S of Ravenna. Lovely sandy beach for walking CO2 … and actually very warm so the shorts came out. We are just starting the Go Sober for October wagon – see below!

Not a glass of wine in sight … aperitif is now coffee!

We spent the last night in Italy in the aire and Auchan just outside Ancona. We’d received an email that our crossing was put back from 1.30 pm to 4.00 pm, but on arrival at the port, were advised that there was further delay … the ship didn’t actual sail until just before 8.00 pm. A regular told me that the ship had been swapped for a faster one and we are due at Patras at about 5.00 pm All very chilled. Once parked dockside, I walked CO2 up into Ancona … an old city with Roman remains, tall buildings and small alleys. Pleasant. This above is the cathedral.

Lions guarding the cathedral steps.

One of the prettier squares.

Made us chuckle, especially as it was on a Fix It Again Tomorrow!

Empty dock as we’re all on the ship. We are Camping on Board, so we can live in Jez for the 21hr crossing. I wandered around helplessly with our electric cable wondering where to plug it in. Not needed! A loooong pole pulls an electric cable down from the roof. And it ain’t no 3 amp rubbish … we’ve had the Remoska and electric hob going, whilst charging anything that vaguely needed it. Excellent showers and toilets. We’ve been on deck just to walk CO2, but Corrie ‘saved’ herself for this morning … she really only does like going in discreet places and on grass. Oscar, however, wants to mark anything he can cock his leg at and has no inhibitions.

Go Sober October by James

Does anyone have their best ideas whilst sitting on the toilet? Leopold Bloom (Ulysses) did….. Well readers, I was thus encamped on the loo at our wilding – Lago di Lugano – when I remembered that MacMillan nurses are encouraging people to shun alcohol for the entire month of October! I climbed back into Jez as we were leaving and unleashed the bombshell on Katherine – she didn’t bat an eyeIlidl (or an Aldi)! Talk about St Paul throwing himself off his horse on the way to Damascus!!! It was bad enough giving up the drink for Lent years ago… I really must avoid toilets!!! We are now committed – as I write we’re on day 4 – and no problems so far – no shakes or twitchessssssssss. It’s a hugely deserving cause (and close to our hearts…. Rally round troops – and think of the widow’s mite! We’re a mite nonplussed! “We’re all going on an alcoholiday……

If anyone would like to donate the price of a coffee …. here’s the link.

We don’t normally do politics on here, but this made me chuckle:

1260: Family, Friends and UK Trips Part 2

Posted on October 1, 2019 by Clunegapyears

1260-1261: Yorkshire with the Margaret and Shirley

Saturday 17th – Sunday 18th August 2019

So good to say goodbye to the Aged P’s knowing we will see them again soon. They headed south and we headed a short distance NE to meet Margaret and Shirley (not forgetting Poppy and Boo. It was touch and go whether we met them … they’d had to be towed out of a muddy long grassed field and could easily have headed to home to clean up … They were not be be persuaded to do Greece and East with us this winter .. it’ll be a while till we see them again.

On the way we stumbled on Nidd Hall hotel, where I had my my honeymoon with (practice) husband No.1. Should’ve known it was doomed, as we arrived and he promptly stuck the F1 on … all about priorities!

They’d found a stunning CL in Lingerfield, near Knaresborough. Dog walking in the fields by the site and Shirley was tickled by Oscar’s ears and caught them in full upward motion!

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Margaret grew up not far way and was our guide on Sunday around Knaresborough.

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Smiling after bacon rolls and amazing brownie for me.

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1262-1264: Heading South

Monday 19th – Wednesday 21st

A CLs and a free night night on our way South towards Hereford.

Clavering CL. Down lots of winding narrow lanes so not for the feint hearted. But so peaceful with the dog walking field at the back, so we stayed two nights and had an admin day.

Then the most amazing wilding spot at Clee Hill Quary. It was a quarry on and off since Bronze age days, had its own railway and industrial buildings are evident. It is an amazing mound in the middle of lower rolling landscape. https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/titterstone-clee-hill

Radar station on top.

360 views all the way round, but a little windy … and another funny ear movement.

1265-1269: Hereford Meet

Thursday 22nd – Monday 26th August

Another wildcamping.co.uk meet with some ‘old’ and new friends. We managed to get a riverfront pitch.

We spent some quality time and meals with Pat and Jim, who we’d shared our Orkney adventures with. We went to the Bulmer’s cider factory … they expanded and then over extended and much of where the factory was is now a Sainsburys.

Generous tastings at the end.

We attempted a sculpture bike ride around Hereford, but there were so many twists and turns, we aborted and had lunch in the pub! This statue was erected by someone who survived one of the plagues, don’t know what the benefactor would have made of it being in the middle of a roundabout.

We also watched England thrashing Ireland at Twickenham in a pub … pure magic!!! Says I!!! And I did some knitting and chatting with the ladies. I had an eye check up … contact lens in left eye to avoid reading glasses, working well, so I ordered a year’s supply. And the sun came out … I think my shorts made it out for about an hour before I got chilly.

1270-1273: Back Home and Multi-Medicals

Thursday 22nd – Friday 20th August

En route back home, we dropped the e-bikes into the centre of Bristol for their annual check up (service) … free servicing for life from the store we purchased them. Apparently, they’ve tightened both chains to stop them slipping. We shall see … not been on them since.

J’s oncologist still very happy with the way his prostate treatment is going … seems she is from near Palermo, Sicily and holidays every year in Sardinia, where we’ve just been. So good to go.

With Jez on Clare and Chris’s drive, we emptied him most thoroughly and cleaned all the interiors of cupboards, footwells etc. Stuff stacked up in the Aged P’s garage now, as well as the shed, attic and our bedroom. They were away again, so had no control how much stuff came over! Jez was soon to be dropped at Bristol Caravans for his medical – MOT (first and a little early), both services, electric check and very outstanding warranty work. We packed our bags for what we wanted whilst in our house in N Devon for two weeks.

On Friday we collected the e-bikes and had supper chez Stephen and Kay, our old neighbours … we sold that house last September.

1274-1286: Home in Combe Martin

Saturday 30th August to 13th September

Loading our shopping bags and boxes of stuff (being van dwellers, we don’t have suitcases or holdalls!) in the the car, we left Jez and the long list of works with Bristol Caravans, Tackled the M5 south and across to Combe Martin to the house we bought last September. We have had an amazing first season of holiday lettings …. just as well we’d booked ourselves in for the two weeks, or it would have been back to back house guests.

We managed just a few house guests of our own, Sinead and Shane Lin and Bo, Maddy and Robyn. And a coffee and and wine fuelled evening with locals Debbie, Brian and Annette. Annette is the sculpture talent behind Cornish Creatures … mostly seagulls and puffins with attitude … check them out here …https://www.facebook.com/rockyandcliff but she’s just started branching out into more serious works. I’m lusting after her nose to nose at the finish line racing greyhounds in bronze.

We managed to better our 2nd from last score at the pub quiz, by coming last! Our team name was Brain Fog!

It felt like slipping on a comfy dressing gown being back in the house. Corrie settled right back in under the TV.

The new Cool Garden at RHS Rosemoor … I went twice … with Maddy and then James. Making the most of my membership card for this last year.

I’m fascinated but the rhythm of the glass blowing process at Dartington. And being a resident with an EX postcode, I and a guest get in free.

Lots of beach walks … this is Hebdon Mouth.

And Saunton Sands.

A favorite – Woolacombe.

And our own Newberry’s Beach in Combe Martin which is dog friendly.

And the main beach, which is NOT dog friendly until 1st October.

Sunset over Combe Martin. Sadly the second week saw some torrential rain … our plumber who was supposed to replace the utility room roof, ended up repairing the sky light leaks in his own motorhome! So the roof will have to be done another time.

Exhausted wet, but happy dogs!

Bristol Caravans managed to do the hab and engine services, the MOT and the electrical test, which had thrown up some unusual and dangerous wiring, but failed to complete a single other task. They ran out of time, so these were outstanding:

Fit a fuel cut off switch
Clean the air suspension filters
Warranty work on front blind (Adria had sent the wrong one … again!)
Warranty work on the bubbling decals (Adria had sent some vinyl, but not the back, so they couldn’t complete this)
Warranty work on the hab door … Adria had not sent all the parts, so Bristol Caravans managed to source a breaker’s yard door and cannibalise some of the parts for a temporary fix. HOWEVER, it transpires that the door and frame have warped … and we have a resulting crack in the side wall. All the warranty work has been going on well over a year now … completely rubbish service. Luckily for us, one of the Adria UK staff was nearby and took a look at our hab door damage and the result is that we need a full new door, door frame …. and a side wall!!! Thankfully, after a few emails, Adria has agreed that as it is consequential damage, we will not have to pay. But based on the service so far … it is anyone’s guess as to when and where! Just hope the temporary fix to the door holds for this trip!
Oh, and whilst there we had 4 new tyres fitted.

Slightly irritated that not everything we’d asked to be done was done, we contacted Mulacott Caravans in Ilfracombe. Yes, they could fit us in next week, so we picked up the van early on the middle Saturday and took it straight into them. They are brilliant!

They fitted a battery monitor, so I now have a % charge on our lithiums on my phone (the lithiums don’t work with the on board control panel)
As one of the two UK approved Goldschmidt air suspension installers, they corrected the install we had done in Greece …. moved part of the system so that it was no longer 1mm from a rear tyre … dont’ know how we didn’t have a blow out …! And protected the wiring with conduit.
Cleaned the lpg gas filters
Fitted fridge fans
Moved the sine wave inverter from right next to the lithiums, where its heat would not do them any good, to under the driver’s seat.
Re-attached some battery wiring (a bit loose from Bristol C!) and up graded some to low spec wires.
Installed a fuel cut off switch.

And all in a week … when it hadn’t been booked in.

If anyone fancies renting a holiday home in N Devon, do check us our first! Tythe Barn House, Combe Martin

1287-1299: Limbo in Ash Vale

Saturday 14th – Wednesday 25th September

We had to vacate the house by 10.00 as Clair the housekeeper had to come in and clean up after us for the next set of house guests!

In convoy we drove back to drop Jez to Clare and Chris’ driveway whist we installed ourselves (again) with the Aged P’s. Stuff from attic, bedroom, shed and garage all scrutinised with regard to whether it deserved a place back in Jez. Once almost fully loaded we took Jez to a weigh bridge … a chalk quarry, so guess what colour the footprints in the van were! An interesting old chap did the weighing … he’d been granted French citizenship … I surprised him by asking if he was Foreign Legion. He claimed to have been ‘attached’ to them, but saw active service in many French ‘empire’ battles, such as Chad. Bet he had some tales. Anyway, Jez came in at 4.2 tons, rear axle not over laden 🙂 Happy bunnies. Really pleased we up plated last year from 4250 to 4850kgs.

CO2 trying to be invisible at the vet sorting out their pet Health Certs, just in case …

We completed so much admin whilst at home … van insurances, breakdown (we now have ADAC but they only cover 4 months trips, Fiat Assist, but they only cover EU, so we also now also have RAC for Azerbaijan, Armenia and Georgia, and Starling Insurance who will cover Turkey!!!), travel / health insurance. Updated software etc etc. We were hoping that the bumper repair (low loader damage whilst in Corsica) would be done on Friday 27th, so had put our tunnel crossing back to Tuesday 1st October. But on hearing one part is still outstanding (Adria!), we gave up the wait and brought the crossing forward. Had we wanted to pay an additional £94, we could have travelled the same day, but we can do much better good with that kind of money, so we crossed at 0123 hrs on Thursday 26th. And onto our next adventure … Greece and East!

Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels

Author Archives: Clunegapyears